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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 10, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
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no problem bro!
i've been lucky to have local's from stoney point show me how it's done. we never take our eye's of the climber. we even spot when it's 2ft off the deck!
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
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Pyro, goes to show that you must have trust in your spotters and know them well
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Feb 10, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
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So do your way hard high-balls before osteoarthritis and spinal degeneration limit your ability to take hard ground falls
And please keep in mind that those long drops and impacts - even with mats - create those anatomical problems.
It's going to make no difference, for instance, in the NFL, if the players have high-tech helmets. The impact of receiver and defender will continue to scramble their brains.
A question: at what point does stacking mats begin to invalidate the risk component of HBB?
;>)
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Feb 10, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
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Depends on the risk....
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
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@jogill couldn't be more right on about impact. Had a friend take a high fall and compressed 2 vertebrae in his lower back and he landed on pads. Also good question about pad stacking, i don't know what the answer would be but would be nice to hear others' opinions
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Feb 10, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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ll stack pads if I can get a solid two layers with no steps...thats the best way to not twist ankles...Any time you use a pad you are taking a degree of risk out of the equation. For sure.
I have one ruptured disc and several more compressed. Old injuries from construction, snowboarding and skateboarding. I still love me some bouldering and I'm not afraid to go for it. If there is a good stack of pads.....
Pretty sore today after yesterdays session though...I probably will have to slow down one day....but not yet.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Feb 10, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
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Depends on the risk....
Good heavens, what is the probability that fellow would land on the mats from that height? They must look like postage stamps. That looks like some serious free soloing.
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 09:49am PT
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@chichen that needs a rope and bolts! There would definitely be physical injury even if he did land on the pads!
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 11, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
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I do enjoy the highballs, but I'm always ready to downclimb them or jump off if it's reasonable. I'm a highball purist, I don't like to rehearse on top rope, so these two things give me "an out".
Of course there's an art to falling, assuming that the circumstances are ideal (pads, spotters, etc.), but there's always some minute detail that can go wrong.
As a chiropractor I know a few tricks about keeping the joints from taking too much damage. Drinking loads of water, consuming significant amounts of omega-3 fatty acids, glucosamine and chondroitin if you're so inclined, and getting those joints moving properly though specific chiropractic adjustments. One of the most basic adjustments for the knee AND for the hip is to perform "axial distraction" (pulling it away from the hip joint, or gapping the knee joints). They get compressed all day by standing, walking, and of course by the ever-so-common highball jump-down. The joint doesn't move as well as it should, and hence, synovial fluid is not regularly "refreshed". It's something that I utilize in order to avoid aches and pains. And avoid them I do, as I'm 33 years old and I climb (boulder) 4-5 days per week. And I take a lot of falls ;)
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 12, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Feb 12, 2013 - 12:41am PT
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What is that problem Jefe? Looks like something I wanna fall off of.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 12, 2013 - 01:11am PT
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back in picnic valley, i think.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 12, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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i love hiphop. if for no other reason than it pisses off old white people.
Weezy.... sort of a dumb thing to say... IMHO.
I sort of like Rap/hiphop or what ever its called today....
But to the OP.... Its a good thing to have some fear, keeps you on your game.
I totaled myself racing Go Karts, if your going to be a good racer you can't be driving around thinking "What if I get hurt?" ... you just need to remind yourself this is fun - I want to win - and get down to the business.
If you love bouldering, and love to do it, fear will diminish with time.
Unless you get smart and realize that hi- ball bouldering, like free soloing, is ultimately a looser game.
I'm with Dwain, use a rope and push the envelope with some relative safety.
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
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@guyman yeah I've pretty much accepted that i could get hurt but love climbing tto much to let that affect me. Eventually ill move away from high boulders and stick to less risky ones......maybe
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john hansen
climber
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Feb 12, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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I believe the climber in chichens pic is Honhold
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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Preface:
I popped off a highball in 1985, fell 10 ft, $20,000+ surgery to screw leg & ankle bones back together.
Lesson:
1. A 150 lb weight falling 10 ft generates 2000 lbs of force.
2. Sometimes, in rock climbing, falling is NOT an option.
I think many people are too cavalier about falling. Really give it a good think; How far do you want to fall? What about the landing? For me, that's three feet.
There is rational fear and there is irrational fear. I don't think many successful climbers carry irrational fear. There is also an irrational lack of fear. Also, there is luck.
Top Roping hard problems is a great way to enjoy climbing.
Bouldering requires less gear, less set-up, but in my opinion top roping is way more fun and a better way to enhance your skills and find your edge where you can and can't make it.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 13, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
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Definitely true, DMT.
If there's any doubt on either end, regarding the mental and the physical components of the climb, it will be shaky at best.
The clue (for me) that I've done due diligence with a particular climb is if I can, on the final go, just feel like I'm "walking up it" in a seemingly effortless manner. And I'll have the same psychological state of calmness and confidence from the bottom to the top. For me it's a really light and free feeling of having FUN and being able to do what I want.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Feb 13, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
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Pay attention to Spider. Look at Largo and the pain, expenses, etc. he's going through after falling in a padded gym. Ask yourself if it's worth the price. And keep in mind all those bone-racking jolts from jumping off up high, even on mats, will pay negative dividends both anatomically and neurologically as you age.
But if you must, you must . . . good luck!
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
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Jogill
You're right, it is always important to be forward thinking of the possible outcomes of something like this. The risks to the body long term have to always be taken into consideration even if you don't get hurt in the initial falls that are taken.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 15, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
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Highball bouldering is flat out STUPID and gaurenf*#kinteed to get you hurt. Either rope up or solo but don't think it's ok to fall just becuse there is a pad down there somewhere and that is how they do it in the magazines....
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