Getting over the Fear after a Highball Fall

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 40 of total 98 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Feb 8, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
Breath, and focus. Thats what I do. Also don't imagine falling. And don't let go...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 8, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
Very TRUE Cozmic!
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
Great stories, glad to hear that people have adapted or found ways over it.

@Chinchen, I did get over the fear and still climb highball problems, but thanks for sharing that vid, looks like an awesome problem, would love to try it!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Feb 8, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
To the OP:

I never climbed at the v9 level, high-ball, low-ball, no balls at all. Just to establish my (lack of) pedigree.

I've been hurt numerous times in bouldering falls, pre-pad mostly. I have never 'mastered' fear nor have I ever climbed 'fearlessly.' At my best I have managed to co-exist peacefully with it. Its there, its in me, and I compartmentalized it and did fine. Other times not as well.

A number of years ago I shattered my left ankle in a lead fall. It did not heal well and it was several years before I could physically risk another serious fall, as in 5 years or so. Five f*#king years. I risked it anyway but only on the easiest of leads.

But healing did come and the ankle did get stronger and I did start risking falls again, roped falls. Incurred them, survived them :-) and confidence built.

Got into better shape. Began to bear down again on routes, to pull harder, and risk longer falls. This past year I started (easy) bouldering again, and then (easy) highballs.

I think ole Clint Eastwood sums it up best for me, in The Unforgiven (perfect title, too)... when asked, 'then what?'

"Well, you live with it."

DMT
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Feb 8, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
After three twisted ankles from falling off boulder problems (once while landing square on a pad) I load my pad and quit bouldering.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 8, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
Chinchen, that is THE BEST V5 I've been on ever. Nice vid of it. I suck at the dyno though so I come in from the left, techy crimp way.

probably too many pads but they help the scary factor
probably too many pads but they help the scary factor
Credit: Relic
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Feb 8, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
"i love hiphop. if for no other reason than it pisses off old white people."

I remember feeling that way about music choices.

In high school.


Edit: Is the 'spotter' in the above pic using some kind of anti-Magneto-repellent force? Isn't that considered aid?
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
@dingus milktoast, great story of your falls, sorry about your ankle but glad to hear you're back at it. I've known people to get hurt sport climbing and I know it can be just as dangerous. I always have the fear of decking until the 3rd bolt, then the fear subsides. Co-existence with fear I think everyone has to have in order to climb harder more difficult routes. Thanks for sharing!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 8, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
trade yur pads in on a rope and rack!;-)
ruppell

climber
Feb 8, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
No way Ron.

Besides I already own all those as well. lol
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Feb 8, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
Relic, do you own any color other than grey?? Or is every pic I have of you wearing the same shirt?? ;)
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Feb 8, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
yea relic...that left hold is gone now. Looks like you have no choice but to dyno...
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
Let's see, you climbed up high, fell off, and hurt yourself. Now you are afraid that if you climb up high and fall you will hurt yourself.
What a ridiculous fear. What the hell is wrong with you?
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
@Chill, cant tell if you're being sarcastic but if not I think you should ask that question to yourself. Fears after accidents (not just in climbing, but in other sports, cars, walking, etc.)are very common. I am over my fear of falling again (which was stated in the blog post). My initial post was just to initiate a dialogue with other climbers about accidents and if they had fears afterward, how/if they got over it, etc.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
Ron's taken a longer "highball" fall too, Cosmic. I believe he calls the climb Deadman's Rappel. I've taken a non dynamic digger myself with some back trauma like yours. How does that go? Tuffen tha fuk up? I'm soon to start my own climbing again and I'm looking forward to it. I guess I'll eat crow if I come back snivelling to y'all.
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
It's pretty much all about getting back on the horse as soon as you can. If you need more pads or spotters to do it, so be it.

I peeled backwards off the top of a problem in Hueco many years ago. Fell into jagged boulders. Sheer luck that I wasn't seriously injured or killed.

It still goes through my head sometimes, but less and less so, the more time and climbs since then.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
Hah Mike, I don't bring a lot of clothes with me cuz I'm a dirtbag. The left starting hold broke? I was on it last March, that's when the pic is from.

This left hand starting hold broke?
This left hand starting hold broke?
Credit: Relic
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:28pm PT
Bowshaa - Sorry I was too subtle. It was sarcasm. A fear like that seems very reasonable to me.
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
@chill, no problem, my fault in not picking it up, haha!

@relic, the more I see this boulder, the more I want to get out there and try it. Great shot btw
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
I'm not afraid, Jebus, I still climb.
But,With all the injuries I climb with, I'm not going to take the chance
of hurting myself bouldering, so I can't climb real rocks anymore.

As You can see in the video below, I don't let too much stop me from my love of climbing.




video taken by MisterE
Messages 21 - 40 of total 98 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews