Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
ruppell
climber
|
|
No way Ron.
Besides I already own all those as well. lol
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
Relic, do you own any color other than grey?? Or is every pic I have of you wearing the same shirt?? ;)
|
|
Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
|
|
yea relic...that left hold is gone now. Looks like you have no choice but to dyno...
|
|
chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
|
|
Let's see, you climbed up high, fell off, and hurt yourself. Now you are afraid that if you climb up high and fall you will hurt yourself.
What a ridiculous fear. What the hell is wrong with you?
|
|
bowshaaa
Boulder climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
|
@Chill, cant tell if you're being sarcastic but if not I think you should ask that question to yourself. Fears after accidents (not just in climbing, but in other sports, cars, walking, etc.)are very common. I am over my fear of falling again (which was stated in the blog post). My initial post was just to initiate a dialogue with other climbers about accidents and if they had fears afterward, how/if they got over it, etc.
|
|
stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
|
|
It's pretty much all about getting back on the horse as soon as you can. If you need more pads or spotters to do it, so be it.
I peeled backwards off the top of a problem in Hueco many years ago. Fell into jagged boulders. Sheer luck that I wasn't seriously injured or killed.
It still goes through my head sometimes, but less and less so, the more time and climbs since then.
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
Hah Mike, I don't bring a lot of clothes with me cuz I'm a dirtbag. The left starting hold broke? I was on it last March, that's when the pic is from.
|
|
chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
|
|
Bowshaa - Sorry I was too subtle. It was sarcasm. A fear like that seems very reasonable to me.
|
|
bowshaaa
Boulder climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
|
@chill, no problem, my fault in not picking it up, haha!
@relic, the more I see this boulder, the more I want to get out there and try it. Great shot btw
|
|
Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
|
|
I'd put a rope on and get some air underneath you.
|
|
Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
|
|
Nothing wrong with being a pussy sometimes. Just don't fall again...problem solved ;-)
|
|
bowshaaa
Boulder climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
|
@stevep, I agree, I tried the problem the week after not fully healed, think it helped mentally but didn't pull it off until the week after. You definitely have to put the fear out of your mind and not dwell on it.
@cosmiccragsman, don't think I would do that with an injured arm, that's way too extreme even on TR! I have a friend who TR'ed with a broken ankle with a cast on. The love of climbing sometimes is worth the risk!
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
The obvious answer would be more, and or bigger (well placed) pads. Essentially you jumped off, but a pretty wild jump. It may have been a better strategy to use a burn to get a close look/ feel of those upper holds, then back-down in control - better informed, for another run at it. Hindsight is 20/20. propz -nice routes and climbing. Edit: The route traverses out to the left? In the first clip you looked like 2 moves from the top, and you were not going left at all.
|
|
jogill
climber
Colorado
|
|
Going on 76 I just shake my head in wonder when I see how popular highballing has become. Although I soloed extensively for over 50 years I rarely did what these days is called a "highball." For me, fifty years ago, the Thimble was a climb and I treated it as such, being very cautious and going slowly and steadily, over several visits - no dynamics. Nowadays, when a climber falls and breaks an ankle or worse on much more difficult terrain and then wants to go back up "protected" by these dinky mats I can only speculate why. ;>)
But then I belong to a generation that began climbing in basketball shoes or heavy mountain boots and cord knickers, coiling a natural fiber rope and wielding a piton hammer on soft Swiss iron and clipping on with steel karabiners!
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
jogill
Interesting point. Which led me to think of this. I wonder how many modern day "boulderers" even know what the Thimble is? I've never made it to the Needles yet but when I do it's on the list.
|
|
ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
|
|
You will never get advice from a better source than JoGill on this subject. BTW, if you placed a bunch of pads at the base of the Thimble, they'd just get run-over or parked on by a tour bus or a bunch of Harleys.
I know there are a number of people on here that could send the Thimble, but I took a good hard look at it a couple of years ago when I was there and promptly walked across the road and high-balled some 5.5.
|
|
pat
Trad climber
estes park
|
|
I think its fairly well known, with only a couple repeats? Its definitely not on the modern day bouldering circuit (Park, Bishop, etc.).
|
|
bowshaaa
Boulder climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
|
@jogill and rupell, that's an understandable viewpoint. But some people get a thrill out of doing dangerous things knowing you can be hurt, different strokes i guess. Thanks for sharing your viewpoints though
|
|
pat
Trad climber
estes park
|
|
"I rarely did what these days is called a "highball."
I really have to call you out on this one:)
Never met you jogill, but I did have to pay the library a considerable sum of money for holding on to Master of Rock well past its due date when I was a young teen. I found some of the more obscure problems in the book around Estes including one on the edge of moraine park up above the bridge, a thin licheny seam, 30ft high or so, 5.11-5.12ish? Very impressive. Safe to say Jogill knows what highballing is about.
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
bowshaaa
You might be missing my viewpoint and I might be missing yours. Just so where on the same page I boulder quite a bit. I also highball quite a bit. I also solo quite a bit. You get the idea. I just think that people that only enjoy one aspect of the sport miss out on the history of it. That's nothing against you. If it was the wrong place to bring it up I can understand that from your point. Tell the truth though before jogill mentioned the Thimble upthread had you ever heard of it?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!