Getting over the Fear after a Highball Fall

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 40 of total 92 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 8, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
Chinchen, that is THE BEST V5 I've been on ever. Nice vid of it. I suck at the dyno though so I come in from the left, techy crimp way.

probably too many pads but they help the scary factor
probably too many pads but they help the scary factor
Credit: Relic
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Feb 8, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
"i love hiphop. if for no other reason than it pisses off old white people."

I remember feeling that way about music choices.

In high school.


Edit: Is the 'spotter' in the above pic using some kind of anti-Magneto-repellent force? Isn't that considered aid?
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
@dingus milktoast, great story of your falls, sorry about your ankle but glad to hear you're back at it. I've known people to get hurt sport climbing and I know it can be just as dangerous. I always have the fear of decking until the 3rd bolt, then the fear subsides. Co-existence with fear I think everyone has to have in order to climb harder more difficult routes. Thanks for sharing!
ruppell

climber
Feb 8, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
No way Ron.

Besides I already own all those as well. lol
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Feb 8, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
Relic, do you own any color other than grey?? Or is every pic I have of you wearing the same shirt?? ;)
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Feb 8, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
yea relic...that left hold is gone now. Looks like you have no choice but to dyno...
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
Let's see, you climbed up high, fell off, and hurt yourself. Now you are afraid that if you climb up high and fall you will hurt yourself.
What a ridiculous fear. What the hell is wrong with you?
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
@Chill, cant tell if you're being sarcastic but if not I think you should ask that question to yourself. Fears after accidents (not just in climbing, but in other sports, cars, walking, etc.)are very common. I am over my fear of falling again (which was stated in the blog post). My initial post was just to initiate a dialogue with other climbers about accidents and if they had fears afterward, how/if they got over it, etc.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
Ron's taken a longer "highball" fall too, Cosmic. I believe he calls the climb Deadman's Rappel. I've taken a non dynamic digger myself with some back trauma like yours. How does that go? Tuffen tha fuk up? I'm soon to start my own climbing again and I'm looking forward to it. I guess I'll eat crow if I come back snivelling to y'all.
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
It's pretty much all about getting back on the horse as soon as you can. If you need more pads or spotters to do it, so be it.

I peeled backwards off the top of a problem in Hueco many years ago. Fell into jagged boulders. Sheer luck that I wasn't seriously injured or killed.

It still goes through my head sometimes, but less and less so, the more time and climbs since then.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
Hah Mike, I don't bring a lot of clothes with me cuz I'm a dirtbag. The left starting hold broke? I was on it last March, that's when the pic is from.

This left hand starting hold broke?
This left hand starting hold broke?
Credit: Relic
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:28pm PT
Bowshaa - Sorry I was too subtle. It was sarcasm. A fear like that seems very reasonable to me.
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
@chill, no problem, my fault in not picking it up, haha!

@relic, the more I see this boulder, the more I want to get out there and try it. Great shot btw
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
I'm not afraid, Jebus, I still climb.
But,With all the injuries I climb with, I'm not going to take the chance
of hurting myself bouldering, so I can't climb real rocks anymore.

As You can see in the video below, I don't let too much stop me from my love of climbing.




video taken by MisterE
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 8, 2013 - 05:16pm PT


Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 8, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
I'd put a rope on and get some air underneath you.
Snowmassguy

Trad climber
Calirado
Feb 8, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
Nothing wrong with being a pussy sometimes. Just don't fall again...problem solved ;-)
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
@stevep, I agree, I tried the problem the week after not fully healed, think it helped mentally but didn't pull it off until the week after. You definitely have to put the fear out of your mind and not dwell on it.

@cosmiccragsman, don't think I would do that with an injured arm, that's way too extreme even on TR! I have a friend who TR'ed with a broken ankle with a cast on. The love of climbing sometimes is worth the risk!
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 8, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
The obvious answer would be more, and or bigger (well placed) pads. Essentially you jumped off, but a pretty wild jump. It may have been a better strategy to use a burn to get a close look/ feel of those upper holds, then back-down in control - better informed, for another run at it. Hindsight is 20/20. propz -nice routes and climbing. Edit: The route traverses out to the left? In the first clip you looked like 2 moves from the top, and you were not going left at all.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Feb 8, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
Going on 76 I just shake my head in wonder when I see how popular highballing has become. Although I soloed extensively for over 50 years I rarely did what these days is called a "highball." For me, fifty years ago, the Thimble was a climb and I treated it as such, being very cautious and going slowly and steadily, over several visits - no dynamics. Nowadays, when a climber falls and breaks an ankle or worse on much more difficult terrain and then wants to go back up "protected" by these dinky mats I can only speculate why. ;>)

But then I belong to a generation that began climbing in basketball shoes or heavy mountain boots and cord knickers, coiling a natural fiber rope and wielding a piton hammer on soft Swiss iron and clipping on with steel karabiners!
Messages 21 - 40 of total 92 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews