Getting over the Fear after a Highball Fall

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 98 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 8, 2013 - 10:30am PT
Mid year of 2012 I took a fall from a highball boulder and missed the pad and injured my ankle. The injury healed fast but my fear from the fall did not, I learned a lot of valuable lessons from the fall, which caused me to adjust my technique, training exercises, and fear control. Here is a video of the fall and blog link to the story:



http://bowshaaa.blogspot.com/2013/01/getting-over-fear-after-fall.html

I wanted to share this because I would like to hear others' stories or accounts of any fears or injuries (falls or tendon injuries, etc) due to climbing and what they did to overcome them. Thanks in advance for any responses!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 8, 2013 - 10:34am PT
its the MUZAK that causes you grief..
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Feb 8, 2013 - 10:36am PT

Check out the book, The Rock Warrior's Way.

A great read for developing mental coolness.




Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 8, 2013 - 10:39am PT
listen to the LEDZEP, and youll fall no mo....
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Feb 8, 2013 - 10:40am PT
Yeah, definitely use better music and you'll fire that bitch!

weezy

climber
Feb 8, 2013 - 10:43am PT
i love hiphop. if for no other reason than it pisses off old white people.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 8, 2013 - 10:45am PT
Really, it's as simple as mind over matter. I understand that it's cliche, but oh well.

I've bailed from 15-20 feet up and broken an ankle, a coule of times. The key is to just go back as soon as you're healthy and send it. Put it to bed.

Just breathe, focus, and ignore the pain potential. You'll be fine.
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 10:45am PT
Yeah yeah i know, no one likes the music haha, i was limited with editing and music choice experience when I made this video, that was another lesson I have learned.

@roxy thanks for the suggestion!

bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 10:46am PT
@weezy agree hah!
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 10:48am PT
@Brandon, yeah that's what I did but sometimes people have a harder time getting over falls when rock climbing. Do you still have fear when you climb, worry about breaking it again? Do you still climb high problems?
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Feb 8, 2013 - 10:50am PT
I took about an eight-foot fall onto a padded landing in the gym about a year ago and severed my Achilles tendon as a result. I finally got permission to boulder again a couple of months ago, and it took me quite a while to be willing to fall two feet, so I understand the fear all too well. I'd taken a very scary head-first leader fall in spring of 1971, and it took me five or six months to get my leading confidence back.

All this means I appreciate this thread and your photo and link, because I've been there. Ultimately, though, I come back to something Chouinard wrote almost 50 years ago. Falls tend to build confidence [provided you're unhurt]. At my age, I need to be judicious about where and how far I fall (for example, I can't do highball boulder problems any more without risking serious injury), but I found taking a few shorter fall off of boulder problems helped me regain my bouldering confidence, and a few safe and well-protected leads got my leading confidence back.

Thanks again for the thread and your post.

John
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Feb 8, 2013 - 10:51am PT
Was that hip hop? Or was it soul train trance electronica?

Sorry about your ankle bro. Heal up strong.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 8, 2013 - 10:54am PT
I don't let falls or injuries color my mind when I find myself in similar situations. That would be detrimental.

An acceptance of pain as normal helps.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 8, 2013 - 10:57am PT
Heres an idea,,get a rope and a rack and go CLIMBING instead of high balling over talus...;-)


I on the very first trip to the rocks managed to nearly kill ma-sef in a 100'+ fall during a single biner rap... Couldnt wait to get back at it! Did it make hate rapping-- surely, but it didnt stop me. If WANTED it will be.
ruppell

climber
Feb 8, 2013 - 10:59am PT
John pretty much nails it. Lots of pads and lots of falls. Eventually you'll learn again that falling is usually safe. I broke my heel two years ago now and after it healed I went right back after it. It took a few weeks to trust my body, my spotters, and the pads. After those few weeks that trust was there again. Now highballs are like they used to be. Also learn to downclimb if your not feeling it. There's no shame in backing off.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 8, 2013 - 11:00am PT
In 2000 I fell off a highball at airport rocks here in Apple Valley
and got 2 very bad compression fractures of my T7 and T8.
My back has never been the same and I still hurt all the time
from it.

I still climb, with rope, but I won't do any more bouldering
because of the chance of reinjuring my back and not being able to climb anymore. The Doc said, if I did take a fall bouldering and landed the wrong way with the way my back is, I could end up paralyzed.

I'm NOT going to take that chance!
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Feb 8, 2013 - 11:00am PT
The spotter was sure helpful. ;)
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Feb 8, 2013 - 11:01am PT
My advice:
Quit being such a pussy.




;)

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=4485760747086&comment_id=56294820¬if_t=video_comment
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 8, 2013 - 11:10am PT
ive taken longer lead falls-- like on "set the controls for the heart of the sun"... 45 feet to the first bolt with 10+ moves, then another fifty + feet to the second bolt with multiple 11+ moves. One can gt major fly time on such..The same mental set really...
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 8, 2013 - 11:14am PT
True, Ron, but the Ground isn't as Dynamic as a rope.
The Ground is more static.
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