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Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Driving to Red Rocks tomorrow night. So beyond psyched.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Wendell Broussard (The Dean) doesn't post on here, but if you spend any time at Desert Rock Sports you will likely meet him, he's there almost every day. I can learn more talking to Wendell for an hour then days on the rock. Have also been honored to climb with him a few times. He's happy to take anyone out just about any time. In his 70s and still can climb a lot of us into the ground.
One of my favorite stories with Wendell was when we were climbing at Brass Wall. A visiting couple had just finished Topless Twins and were enthusing to Wendell about the route.
He let them go on for a while, then grins and shrugs and says "Yeah, I thought it was pretty good when I put it up in '86...."
Harrison used to climb at the gym a lot, but I haven't been there in a long time so I am not sure what he is up to these days, I know he was under the weather for a while. Always been cool to me when I have talked to him.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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You'll need a copy of the Handren guidebook if you don't have one.
It's got some excellent historical information concerning climbing in the area which makes it an even sweeter guidebook. It's not a bad place to start.
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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There is a pretty good history written by Joanne Urioste in Alpinist a few years ago.
Wendell also has some pretty cool old Vegas stories including some classic extra-curricular activities.
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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I found this cool thing on an approach to the Blood Wall on the Cactus Flower Tower. A welded chainlink to a sharpened screw with goldline girthed to it. I would love to know who made this thing. George and Joanne didn't know.
Found this cool hand drilled out hex complete with goldline and steel rap ring on a recon day with Joseph Healy and Larry DeAngelo. We had hiked up past the Basin Wall on Wilson and were coming down a gulley on the face to the soutch of Lady Wilson's Cleavage. I did some sketchy downclimbing to be able to retrieve this thing but it was worth it. George Urioste had said it looked like something guy he used to know would do that was also a cyclist. I have forgotten the name. Still a pretty cool find.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Here's a good start for history.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Man, some of the best written history, ever, on Red Rock was right here on Supertopo.
Philo scrubbed it, right? Some of those stories made it into Alpinist if I'm correct. Killer reading.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Wendell also has some pretty cool old Vegas stories including some classic extra-curricular activities.
Ask him about the time he knocked this Mob dude out in the middle of the casino....
Wendell is the man.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Texplorer: I did some sketchy downclimbing
Dude, that was sketchy all the way up, and ridiculously sketchy coming down. I'm not even going to get into the tale of how we ended up heading up there with a single 7.8mm and a handful of gear, or how we were lucky to still have our shoe laces when we got down after using up our slings on all the manky non-load-bearing shrubberies.
Texplorer: I have forgotten the name.
I believe Joanne said 'Max' and meant it in sort of a 'Mad Max' sort of way...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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This thread has some awesome potential.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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That alpinist profile was exceptional. Would love to know more about RR history as well. One of my favorite places to climb.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Philo, from the first page of that link, who is "flamer"?
Burning curiosity compelled me to ask in behalf of De Flames.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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You forgot Jay Smith.....lot's of FA's almost all excellent quality.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 10, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
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These pics are from the first continuous ascent of Eagle Dance in 1980. Jorge and Joanne had just put it up over several efforts and were finishing up their work establishing Levitation 29 while we were giving this, their other classic route, a big nod of approval. The camera I took these pics with was an old el cheepo Instamatic - I really was a dirtbag and couldn't afford a real camera - that ended up in the detritus of my climbing gear for almost two decades before I refound it and had the film developed.
That trip, that had us doing Eagle Dance as well as putting up the Resolution Arete, Gwondonaland Boogie and a bundle of other fair to middling routes, has almost no photographic record. To my knowledge only these and a few others exist.
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:58am PT
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Love the history. Thanks for sharing those photos.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Feb 12, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
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I will post up a story about Eagle Dance when I get some time.
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Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
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