E9 6c, Redhead and Dawes

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 30 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 4, 2013 - 08:29am PT
"E9 6c is out there in the streets, every single night!"
John Redhead

Awesome, classic, beautiful.
I love what the intro people say about E9 6c! How hard is that anyway?
Check out the primitive practice wall and the one handed and no hands stuff!

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 08:53am PT
This one is amazing too!

This Redhead dude is quite the character. Did he ever climb in the states?

The little bit at around 4:15 is fun!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 4, 2013 - 08:57am PT
Isn't that Indian Head route the one someone flashed in the movie Onsight?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 4, 2013 - 09:00am PT
and Oh Sh#t is Redhead amazing, lol.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 09:07am PT
Interesting to hear Dawes talking about Redhead at one point, "Other people are special too John."

It sounds that maybe they had a "falling" out?

You never actually see the two of them together.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 4, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
The no hands stuff at 2:55 is crazy!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 4, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
Redhead is an enigmatic & odd climber & has been for three decades. Sick sick sick routes - even all those years ago ( you've heard of The Bells, The Bells ? Not for pussies ) .

But his not climbing antics & escapades including The Brotherhood of the Bell - certainly I'm not gonna be the one to spill what I know about it. Gross. Weird. No.

His book "One for the Crow" with lotsa wild & weird drawings was called by some climbers as genius and by others "One for the Bin".

I met him in Llanberis in '00 at a friend's place and watched as he let his son jump on the roof of his car until it was well stove in. He seemed pleased that I'd heard of him ( he recognized that, by my non-English English that I was from the colonies ) ..........but he gave off such an oompa-loompa vibe that I made sure that was my one and only meeting with the chap.



survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
but he gave off such an oompa-loompa vibe that I made sure that was my one and only meeting with the chap.

Ok, what the hell is an oompa-loompa vibe?

Funny how one of the comments on YouTube is that he fell off Indian Face because he was weighted down by his ego.

Still, the painting display was interesting, but the penis dance???
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 4, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
uuuuuyyyeeaaahhhh...^^^
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
surv - check yer email.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
You guys act like you've never done psychedelics before...



:)


I think he's trying to keep one foot in reality and one foot in... whatever world he's discovered. Could be a bad ass world, but he isn't articulating it well enough...
Guernica

climber
right there, right then
Feb 4, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
An artist, a brit, and a climber... of course he's weird! Awesome videos, thanks for posting.
OR

Trad climber
Feb 4, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
Loved the vids! Huge fan of Dawes...Redhead seems a bit of a self absorbed knob though. Always acting for the camera.

I love the brit climbing thing .....I could watch vids like that all day.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 4, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
Great vids Survival!
Kinda reminds me of when I started climbing, seems there were more freaks then.
But that Redhead...whoa!
CalicoJack

climber
CA
Feb 4, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
Thanks for putting those vids up. Interesting dude that Redhead - Serious Clowning!

Andy
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
For John Redhead, who remains one of the UK's most enigmatic climbers, The 2012 KMF will not be a gathering where he will be seen or heard. And not surprisingly, given that an appearance he made at Kendal in the late 1990s has become almost the stuff of legend. Many of the earnest, muscular climbers who had come to hear of his exploits on rock ended up fighting for the exits like the steerage section on the Titanic, while those who remained witnessed a battle between hecklers and Redhead's volume control. When I asked him about 'the Kendal Gig' he explained:

Oh yes, the 'Kendal Gig'! What is it about the outdoor sector and creativity? Is sport an enemy of art? I guess the punters wanted to hear the big names talk about moves and numbers instead of ideas and possibilities. My show was based on the rites and considerations of the 'hunt', like being in a state of grace where all parties are involved.

I treated the subject very much like the sacred ground before a climb. This is not Pepsi-Max culture, and not something most climbers would want to pay money to hear. But that's what they got, as I turned up the volume to counteract the yells of abuse. Kendal is the epitome of the redneck mainstream climber festival. I gave the same show at Bangor University and stayed for hours afterwards having meaningful dialogue and discussion on the poetry and issues involved.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 3, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
The Leaping Boy: Johnny Dawes half man, half monkey and half sane. The strange times and scary climbs of Britain's metaphysical rock-master. (Climbing Nov-Dec 1996. By Ed Douglas.)
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 3, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
The Quarryman
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Mar 3, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
Sweet Now there's a route you could strain a few muscles on.
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Mar 4, 2013 - 08:22am PT
^^^

5.11d = E8 7a, you'll be lucky!

Steve
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