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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
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@Gdavis, Yeah that is something I am going to have to work on for sure, I've got a lot of sport climbing on my list for the spring. I have some ideas for some endurance training that I plan to try out in a month or 2 after comp season is over. Lord Dave MacLeod would be right on things about endurance!
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
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MichaelD, yeah, I am going to do some hangboard exercises with three and then eventually 2 finger exercises. Hopefully that'll strengthen them for open hand campus-ing
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Do you do cardio on any of your days off from this training? Run? How much?
Do any weight training?
How often do you change the work out? Body gets used to routines and you end up in a plateau. I bet you already know that if you sent a v10! But just a basic reminder. I see a lot of results from changing what I do.
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2013 - 10:03am PT
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@Vitaliy M., I don't do much cardio training (but I really really should for endurance training), I don't do weight training either, I used to but I found it made me weaker at climbing and had more injuries. When I start to feel too strong on a certain exercise, I add a weight vest (10-12lb) and then I have no plateau.
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 12:04am PT
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Thanks everyone for playing soundboard and contributing advice!
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
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Moon fingerboard arrived to complement the campus training!
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
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Anyone have a favorite hangboard? Links to workouts? Why it is your favorite?
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
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@biotch. I've worked on the simulator but find it has a lot of holds you don't really need and the size makes it difficult to put above doorways. The metolius project board is a nice smaller version of the simulator in which mote of the holds are useful.
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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Just thought I would throw in this followup from the OP. Campus Board routine has been made harder due to plateau-ing(sp?). The video illustrates more power movements than before with added in exercises on different training tools. (hangboard intro warmup is after 1 hr of climbing, it is a warmup to campusing).
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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