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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
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If you have any training advice to share on what works for you, I'd like to hear about it so I can incorporate fresh ideas into my routines to keep them from becoming stagnant. Thanks!
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PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Campus boarding creates a high risk of injury so you won't be able to do V10's anymore.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Open hand stuff.
Pinch stuff.
This builds finger strength.
Try to do a route with your foot 1 move further than how you'd normally do it. Then two foot moves further. Then 1 foot move behind, then 2....
This will be good for overall technique and core on any route that is steep.
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
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@michaeld, never tried that, will give it a go this week, thanks!
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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when you open hand, do you use 3 or 4 fingers?
I can only use 3, because my pinky is too short. Try doing finger curls with free weights (if you're climbing v10, you can most likely use 35lb or 45lb to curl)
Though make sure you use chalk or have shoes. Dropping weights onto your feet sucks.
Have a weight machine?
Grab a climbing pinch, tie a rope through it, or bolt a hanger to the back of it, and hook it up to the machine. Start doing lock offs, pull downs, etc with it. Increase your pinching skills. That's my go to workout if i'm trying to get my fingers strong for a crimps.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Don't underestimate the value of pure endurance workouts and pushing past what Messner called the cramp or panic point. He mentioned that in his 7th Grade book. This can be more important than pure strength moves. Learning to expend as little energy as possible while doing difficult things is where it's at - in other words learn to relax - this is the core of Chi training. Also, you were doing double-ups on the campus board - do more double letting go on the regular holds where things are less predictable - fly a little more. Also, do more lateral reaching, even on the campus board.
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
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@michaeld gym doesnt have much of those, I think I will get a weight vest though and try that out.
@mchales navy, endurance is my biggest weakness which I attribute to bouldering, but once spring hits I will start sport climbing training, doing long endurance runs and long campus endurance routines
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dead hangs and lockoffs.
Be careful!
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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Anyone use the Moonboard? Ive been using it for a while also and find exercises on it rwally improve contact strength and crimp strength
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dude your hands are going to die.
Try a Bacher ladder, and use your feet.
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
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@frumy first time ever hearing of a bacher ladder, had to google it, ha!
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 06:26am PT
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@drljefe what do you do your dead hangs and lock-offs on?
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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You have a cool campus board. Practice lock offs on it.
Both hands on 1. Left to 4. Back to 1. Right to 4. Back to 1.
b1, l3, r5, l7, b9, r7, l5, r3, b1, as SLOW as you can. Open hand ;)
l = left
r = right
b = both
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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You do all this campusing in one workout? How many minutes do you rest between sets?
Great post on your blog. Lots of helpful info.
Just wondering how come you don't do most difficult of rungs first when you are the freshest?
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
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@vitaliy M. Thanks, Yes one workout, climb 3X per week with 2 of the days doing this training. I rest about 3 minutes in between sets, most of the exercises take only 10-15 seconds so recovery tends to be quick also. I tend not to do the most difficult rungs first (yet) due to me not quite being at that level where I can do too much on it before my fingers feel fried. I am slowly incorporating more of the difficult rungs earlier though.
@michaelD, Ill have to work into going from half crimp to open handed movement due to not being able to keep the pinky on when I do open hand, three fingers is painful!
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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3 fingers with both hands or just 1?
Open hand next time you do routes. Since your pinky is short like mine, do like 5.10 something at the gym and try to relaxed, open hand up it. Then worry about your feet more than your fingers.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Hey dude, not that I am gonna tell you what to do because I am a SH#T climber and you are super bad-ass... but you should ask yourself how often POWER is the problem over TECHNIQUE. I would climb outside on boulders 5x a week with other work only supplimental, when my fat ass started doing campus training I got injured fairly fast. Apples and oranges and every athlete is unique :) I'm sure you've figured out what works for you, that's why you climb so f*#king hard! haha.
endurance is my biggest weakness which I attribute to bouldering
I would attribute to perhaps your approach to bouldering? Sacrifice power for volume, keep your work rate higher and worry less about sending the route and more about dialing movement into muscle memory (or something like that) So Sayeth the Lord, Dave MacLeod.
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
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3 fingers with both hands. Im going to start 3 finger exercises soon. Ill incorporate that also what u mentioned while climbing. Thanks.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Do not start full body weight on your fingers if they hurt. Do it with feet on and hang strait armed.
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