Campus Board Training

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bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 4, 2013 - 07:05am PT
Wolfgang Gullich's great idea of the campus board has had very positive effects in my training. Here is a video of my training that lead me to send my first v10 boulder problem:



blog link to training details:

http://bowshaaa.blogspot.com/2013/01/campus-board-training-perspective.html
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 10:47am PT
If you have any training advice to share on what works for you, I'd like to hear about it so I can incorporate fresh ideas into my routines to keep them from becoming stagnant. Thanks!
burcheyAGAIN

Gym climber
Feb 4, 2013 - 10:57am PT
Nice. I've been told by the bouldering monsters I know that it's important to take it easy on the campus board for a climber at first - often muscle strength is beyond the ligament/tendon strength that must develop first before you can crank on that thing. A lot of guys overdo it and get hurt. That being said, my tendons/ligaments are garbage.
PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley
Feb 4, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
Campus boarding creates a high risk of injury so you won't be able to do V10's anymore.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Feb 4, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
Open hand stuff.

Pinch stuff.

This builds finger strength.

Try to do a route with your foot 1 move further than how you'd normally do it. Then two foot moves further. Then 1 foot move behind, then 2....

This will be good for overall technique and core on any route that is steep.


bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
@michaeld, never tried that, will give it a go this week, thanks!
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
when you open hand, do you use 3 or 4 fingers?

I can only use 3, because my pinky is too short. Try doing finger curls with free weights (if you're climbing v10, you can most likely use 35lb or 45lb to curl)

Though make sure you use chalk or have shoes. Dropping weights onto your feet sucks.

Have a weight machine?

Grab a climbing pinch, tie a rope through it, or bolt a hanger to the back of it, and hook it up to the machine. Start doing lock offs, pull downs, etc with it. Increase your pinching skills. That's my go to workout if i'm trying to get my fingers strong for a crimps.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 4, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
Don't underestimate the value of pure endurance workouts and pushing past what Messner called the cramp or panic point. He mentioned that in his 7th Grade book. This can be more important than pure strength moves. Learning to expend as little energy as possible while doing difficult things is where it's at - in other words learn to relax - this is the core of Chi training. Also, you were doing double-ups on the campus board - do more double letting go on the regular holds where things are less predictable - fly a little more. Also, do more lateral reaching, even on the campus board.
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
@michaeld gym doesnt have much of those, I think I will get a weight vest though and try that out.

@mchales navy, endurance is my biggest weakness which I attribute to bouldering, but once spring hits I will start sport climbing training, doing long endurance runs and long campus endurance routines
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 4, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
Dead hangs and lockoffs.

Be careful!
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
Anyone use the Moonboard? Ive been using it for a while also and find exercises on it rwally improve contact strength and crimp strength
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 4, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
Dude your hands are going to die.

Try a Bacher ladder, and use your feet.
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
@frumy first time ever hearing of a bacher ladder, had to google it, ha!
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 03:26am PT
@drljefe what do you do your dead hangs and lock-offs on?
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Feb 5, 2013 - 11:05am PT
You have a cool campus board. Practice lock offs on it.

Both hands on 1. Left to 4. Back to 1. Right to 4. Back to 1.


b1, l3, r5, l7, b9, r7, l5, r3, b1, as SLOW as you can. Open hand ;)


l = left
r = right
b = both
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 5, 2013 - 01:04pm PT
You do all this campusing in one workout? How many minutes do you rest between sets?
Great post on your blog. Lots of helpful info.

Just wondering how come you don't do most difficult of rungs first when you are the freshest?
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
@vitaliy M. Thanks, Yes one workout, climb 3X per week with 2 of the days doing this training. I rest about 3 minutes in between sets, most of the exercises take only 10-15 seconds so recovery tends to be quick also. I tend not to do the most difficult rungs first (yet) due to me not quite being at that level where I can do too much on it before my fingers feel fried. I am slowly incorporating more of the difficult rungs earlier though.

@michaelD, Ill have to work into going from half crimp to open handed movement due to not being able to keep the pinky on when I do open hand, three fingers is painful!
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Feb 5, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
3 fingers with both hands or just 1?
Open hand next time you do routes. Since your pinky is short like mine, do like 5.10 something at the gym and try to relaxed, open hand up it. Then worry about your feet more than your fingers.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 5, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
Hey dude, not that I am gonna tell you what to do because I am a SH#T climber and you are super bad-ass... but you should ask yourself how often POWER is the problem over TECHNIQUE. I would climb outside on boulders 5x a week with other work only supplimental, when my fat ass started doing campus training I got injured fairly fast. Apples and oranges and every athlete is unique :) I'm sure you've figured out what works for you, that's why you climb so f*#king hard! haha.

endurance is my biggest weakness which I attribute to bouldering

I would attribute to perhaps your approach to bouldering? Sacrifice power for volume, keep your work rate higher and worry less about sending the route and more about dialing movement into muscle memory (or something like that) So Sayeth the Lord, Dave MacLeod.
bowshaaa

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
3 fingers with both hands. Im going to start 3 finger exercises soon. Ill incorporate that also what u mentioned while climbing. Thanks.
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