Rock till you drop. Sport Chalet Climbing Comp- 1989.

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guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 2, 2013 - 05:16pm PT
Hi, I was cleaning up some stuff in the closet and I ran across these photos I wish to share.

Comp climbing was in its infancy back then, the previous year had Snowbird which brought big name international stars to the USA.

Now it was time for Los Angles to hold one.

Sport Chalet sponsored the event and built 3 roots on their tall sign.

I had been out of climbing for several years due to getting married, having kids, starting a career etc. After I broke my arm in a ski tumble in 1987. I vowed to drop those extra 50 lbs and get back into fighting shape.

When Sports Chalet announced the EVENT, I decided to enter… just for fun, you know.

There were lots of young climbers at Stoney who were all excited and looking to prove how good they were so they could get on the TOUR make $$$$$ and go to France.

I started training with some of my friends, mostly because we didn’t want to look bad, The Planet of the Apes wall proved to be the best training ground, we would run laps till exhausted then run some more.

Misa running laps....
Misa running laps....
Credit: guyman

Me running laps
Me running laps
Credit: guyman

The Big Day arrived, finally. There were lots of climbers who showed up, more than the Chalet folks expected I think. They had us locked up in a room so we could not beta the roots. A rumor of someone being dropped swept through the room adding to the real tension I felt. I had to pee every 10 minutes. Trying to stay warmed up on a pull up bar was the best way to pass the time.

Finally my name was called......

Please, Please don't drop me Mr. Belayer I weigh like 198 lbs!
Please, Please don't drop me Mr. Belayer I weigh like 198 lbs!
Credit: guyman

You had to climb up and then traverse right to get to the Qualifying Route.

OK, now that I have reached this point, do you know how to belay? Caus...
OK, now that I have reached this point, do you know how to belay? Cause I
am going to fly off this deal... for sure.
Credit: guyman

I was able to make it... barley... to the top of the Qualifier.

Back in ISOLATION there were not to many climbers remaining, I recall a Stoney kid named "Kuan" saying that he to almost didn't make it up the qualifier. Kuan was a strong climber, I felt pretty happy with how I felt while climbing the Qualifier and was able to relax some.

When I got called for round two I was ready to see just what we were going to climb. The second route was in the center of the sign. The deal started with some overhanging moves that I studied very carefully. The officials had informed us that "everything was ON" while we were in isolation. I came up with a plan and executed it with out falling, gaining the ledge above the roof. The key was edging the 1/8 inch edge on top of the plywood...

Using the edge getting to the slab....
Using the edge getting to the slab....
Credit: guyman

I don't think the setters knowingly left this edge. I found out later that this overhanging part and the two slab moves above were the downfall of many many climbers.

I made it past the "slab" and noticed that the holds didn't have much chalk
on them.

Wow... all I need to do now is get to the ledge.
Wow... all I need to do now is get to the ledge.
Credit: guyman


I pulled really hard and was making good progress... right near the top there was a natural ledge about 3 inches wide. I tried three times to mantle this sucker but the cruel setters didn't put any hand or foot holds to help you up...... I rolled of backwards due to "large ass syndrome" and my day was done. I did notice some applause while getting lowered to the ground.

No trip back to Isolation and I was free to mingle with the spectators. I was informed that only 14 climbers made it past the ledge and to the top, so I was pretty happy with my climbing. It was much better than I ever dreamed I could do.

The event went into the night- I forget who won the men's division but I knew who won the Women's.... It was my training partner... Misa!!!!!

She even let me hold the first place trophy on the drive home.

I never entered anymore "comps" but I really had fun at this one.

If any of you recall this event please post what you have, I have tried to search for more information, like who won, but can find nothing.





NA_Kid

Big Wall climber
The Bear State
Feb 2, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
Guyzo thats a great story!
Thanks for sharing.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Feb 2, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
great shot'z guy.

i heard Misa beat lynn hill that day? if so i'd be pretty stoked..
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Feb 2, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
That was a great day.Thanks for bringing the memoirs back.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Feb 2, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
That brings back some memories. I was in that comp and I think I remember Andy Puhval, not sure of the spelling, being in it also and doing pretty well. My downfall was the large overhang at the top. If memory serves me I think I cut loose and dynoed for the jug and fell short.

I just remember loud annoying music playing during my turns.

I was climbing a lot up at Williamson at that time and it was at this comp that I met Troy Mayr at and latter that week took him up to Williamson climbing. The begining of the end. I sure enjoyed climbing with Troy but really miss the old days at Williamson with zero crowds. I guess there are zero crowds now, but for another reason.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 2, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
As soon as Largo broke his leg I was thinking of challenging him to a bouldering contest - the rules would include him having to wear his cast even if he was healed up. But, moving forward from there, somebody could hold a Masters bouldering contest at Stoney Point. I would show up for sure. Not sure what the age break off would be........? Not sure if yer really old till yer over 60 at least. You get a handicap if you're over 60 and everyone gets a complimentary cane for showing up. Would have to let the 55 and up youngsters have a chance at the old guys. The name for the contest might be; No Country for Old Men.

I'm going to have to get a crash pad I guess - still have never used a crash pad.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 2, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
Never did any of the Artificial climbing comps,
But I competed at quite a few Mt Rubidoux, and Woodson Bouldering Comps.
I placed high, but never could compete with the likes of Ron Kauk and others.

I had FUN!
That's what counts.



Edit: I never was one for artificial walls.
I LIKED Real Rock better
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 2, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
I placed high
We knew that.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 2, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
LOL^^^^^
Yeah, High, on both accounts.




:)
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 2, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
You'd have to be stoned to miss that!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 2, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
I didn't, so I guess not.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 3, 2013 - 12:01am PT


photo not found
Missing photo ID#287801
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 3, 2013 - 12:05am PT
THAT deserves a puff - cheers! I've been trying to work but I'm gonna light up now.....and keep trying to work!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 3, 2013 - 12:09am PT
I'm Trying to hold it in till Capt. Binghamton leaves.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 3, 2013 - 12:12am PT
What the hell am I doing? Looking for a sign I guess. I'm going to have to move to the posting while stoned thread now.....or posting boobs while stoned or whatever it is.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 3, 2013 - 12:16am PT
Thanks Guy!
Bought mah first cord there.

Mammut 165er.
Dude behind the counter saw my roll a quarters: exact change for a 150'.
No hair on my face yet...

"Climbing's where its at" said he.
The man then clipped the tag from a 150 ... slapped it on the 165 and I was off to the races!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 3, 2013 - 12:17am PT
I'll meet you over there.
Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
Feb 3, 2013 - 12:26am PT
Good story Guy.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 3, 2013 - 12:29am PT
Oh, speaking of buying stuff, I bought my first pair of hiking boots at Sport Chalet, ones that I hiked the Muir Trail with about 1967. They were black Lowa Matterhorns and I would trip when my shoe laces would catch on all those lacing hooks.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 3, 2013 - 12:34am PT
I don't remember hearing about that comp. Too bad. That time was probably the strongest i've ever been.

I remember Kuan though. Showed me lots of good eliminates at Stoney that I can't do anymore because the holds busted off or I'm not strong enough.
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Feb 3, 2013 - 12:35am PT
Pyro,

Lynn Hill was not at the comp, she was in Europe on the way to her 1st World Championship. Had she been present she would've won both the women's and men's comp easily. df
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
Bull.... I think your correct.

I recall it was more like a comp for LA locals.

So I would love to see a list of who was entered and how the rankings ended up.

Anyway, post up if you recall any of this..

And Dwain... did you do the boulder comps?

I never went to comps after RTUD, It seemed like a waste of a day not climbing and waiting for your turn.

And Dan.... you must come down to Stoney and school the youth.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 3, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
Am getting ready Guyman - am honing up. Did more pullups in a day yesterday than I have for many years. I did one as a warm-up before walking around Greenlake, then did 2 more - 2 in a row that is!
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Feb 3, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
Nice! Thanks for sharing. Any wide shots of the whole wall/sign?
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Feb 3, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
I have some video of that comp. if I can figure out how to transfer it I will post it up.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Feb 3, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
Guyman;
Yes I did the boulder comps at Rubiudoux and Woodson in the 80s.
If I remember right, I did 2 at Rubidoux and 3 at Woodson,
Or, Was it the other way around.
Dam memory is getting worse as I get older.

:)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Feb 3, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
Good topic. Thx!

think there is discussion of this elsewhere on the taco.

that day I realized there was a lot of us climber types in the so cal wastelands.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Feb 3, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
So sick Guy!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 11:35am PT
Handsome B .... I hope maybe someone has more pics. The sign is gone now.

Bat... Yes, go get some professional help. :>) Love to watch film, to cool.

Dwain... yes memories fade, hense this thread. Ha ha ha ha....

Munge. I searched, ST and Google... there was one in Costa Mesa hosted by the Chalet.

Tfish... glad you liked it.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Feb 5, 2013 - 11:44am PT
Cool thread Guy!
I remember seeing that climbing wall at Sport Chalet back in the day. That's when I started in this silly sport, and met you and Kris and the rest of the gang at Stoney...good times!

End of an Era
End of an Era
Credit: rincon
There's the old sign getting torn down.

10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Feb 5, 2013 - 11:57am PT
I was at the comp to watch. Good on you guys who competed.
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