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Roadie
Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
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Hey Steve G.
I don't know if you remember me but we sat together at Jay Smith's wedding dinner.
Geeze, I feel like you could have almost been talking about me there!
Last spring i was down climbing some so so snow comming down from Bear Creek Spire- and rather gripped i might add- my faithful dog took me out in her joy at our reunion. I went for a hundred-footer. I took her with me. Now she gives me a little more space on steep snow.
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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1988. Stellar granite. What's up with the lines on Wolf's Head, that face towards Warbonnet. Didn't Greg Collins and some other folks put some good stuff up there?
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Roadie
Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
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There are maybe a half dozen routes on the south face. I can't remember which one we did. It was way left of the Becky route. I do remember we raped down Collins' route [storm] while he was working it. It starts on the Becky route, and follos it for several hundred feet. Then there is s body length or two of what looks like very hard slab [stick clippeble] into a pitch or two of great looking 5.11ish fingers. It seems like about 75% of the climbing was on Freds line but its been a long time...
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boomin
Trad climber
vermont
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August 1978. Used the Bonney and Bonney guide. Smoked it. Feeling hot we upped the ante the next day and did Warbonnet NE face. Route finding probs, this way, no, this way, lets try that way. Burning daylight and the grip was creeping higher. Then the storm. Let's see, on NE face, storms from SW. Yep, So when someone says Wolf's Head I think I hear Warbonnet and the hair on the back of my neck stands up.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Did Wolfshead in 1964, 3 days before we did the 1st ascent of Pingora's north face. Got some slides somewhere. I'll dig them out.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Many times. It's a fun route where the summit is just a tiny part of the reason to climb it. One of my most memorable climbs on the east ridge was years ago in early June when I was guiding it. Anything that was slightly out of the sun still had a full load of winter snow and ice. Made for some pretty exciting 5.6. It was a great day of very alpine rock climbing. Done 3 routes on the south face and the rock there is about perfect. It seems someone epics on the descent route more days than not in August. Don't rap down the big chimney on the south side! Made that mistake myself, but only once.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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I went there with Larry Reynolds in 1968. It was very cool cruising across the desert in his blue Camaro listening to classical tunes. We met Bud Couch there and we all climbed Pingora and Wolf's Head. I was all of 16 years old!
Things other than the climbing that I clearly remember; I thought it was weird that Bud carried a can of Right Guard Spray in.......must have been to keep the bears away. And, on the approach in, a young guy came out of the woods and asked to borrow one of our ropes - he wanted to lasso a deer because he was starving he said, said he was on one of those Outward Bondage or NOLS trips. Was a great trip we had - sorry no pics on this end.
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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I hate the Winds. The weather has sucked every time I've been there.
Speaking of weather... it's been shady and 55 to 65 degrees in the gym this Winter
:-)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Weather in the Winds...Cali climbers spoiled and softened by the Sierra Summers. Oops, I first met Reilly in Seattle.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Nice pics!
With excellent weather in the summer of 2002.
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OldEric
Trad climber
Westboro, MA
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I did. ~1991
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO
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In 1976 at the Climber's Ranch in the Tetons, two climbers raved about this great route they had just done in the Cirque of the Towers on the East Ridge of Wolf's Head. With little more than this verbal beta, my partner Paul Bell, an Englishman on a two-year trip around the world, hiked into the cirque and we climbed this fantastic route.
Memories of this fine climb and the Cirque made we want to return to the Winds every season but I didn't make it back until 1999. With my llamas carrying loads over Jackass Pass, a party of four made it to the Cirque. I repeated this route with Crystal Davis. She went on to make some great first ascents and bold climbs in Patagonia. On our way out, we passed a ranger who asked where we had been. We told him we had crossed Jackass pass with llamas. He congratulated us, saying we were the first party to do so. (This was not true, but I did not correct him; other llameros had beaten me to this "first." I repeated a crossing of Jackass Pass with llamas in August 2012.
Now that I'm thinking about this great climb, I wonder why not climb it again this summer?
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TheLittleUnit
Trad climber
Cambridge, MA (formerly) SF Bay Area
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Feb 18, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
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Neesh
Trad climber
Connecticut
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Feb 19, 2013 - 03:32am PT
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Climbed it last August. One of my favorite climbs i've ever done. Not only the amazing climb, the beautiful scenery, awesome approach into the cirque, the prime camping locations, and we were lucky to have perfect weather the whole week. Can't wait to go back one day!
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Feb 19, 2013 - 05:05am PT
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I climbed Wolf's Head and Pingora in 1981. I went back to the Cirque a couple of years back whilst hiking the Highline Trail. I took a short rope and a few nuts with me so I could do Wolf's Head again with my wife. In the event we woke up to a light layer of snow and cold temps so didn't do it, just carried on with our hike. However, someone asked me later how I was intending to get off the route afterwards with such a short (25m) rope. Well, I have absolutely no recollection of rapping off it in 1981. I thought I'd just continued traversing until I could scramble back down left into the Cirque. Is this possible? Could I have done this or did my brain just wipe rapping from my memory? Thanks.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
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Feb 19, 2013 - 09:33am PT
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One of my most memorable climbs!
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Feb 19, 2013 - 11:12am PT
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Couple times, first time with Crump and his video camera, second time without. Have descended the rap chimney and the backside mostly walk-off. Left a pin on the "walk-off." I'd recommend doing the "walk-off" over the chimney.
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