coz
Gym climber
Belmont
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Jan 31, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
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Man,
I was hoping to hear about all his climbs, I never heard about.
Guys, like Jack Tackle, Michael Kennedy, Greg Collins, Jim Donini, Steve Gerberding never seemed to get the credit or attention they deserved.
I was too absorbed in rock climbing and after a successful trip to Patagonia forgot all about alpine climbing.
Seems like this thread could serve as a way to bring Jim's great climbs in the far reaches of the world, to the masses. I love to hear them.
But if I have to endure one more ass suave, I love you Jim post, I may throw up my top Ramen.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 31, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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C0z said
But if I have to endure one more ass suave, I may throw up my top Ramen.
Dude, I'm not sure what an ass suave is but how many can you endure before you puke? Can one build up a tolerance to ass suaves?
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Jan 31, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
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I ain't suaving no one's ass . . .
Jim what's the story with this: (from Jim's Wikipedia page, how many Taco heads have their own Wikipedia page??!!!)
Notable climbs
1976 Torre Egger - First Ascent - with John Bragg, and Jay Wilson from the United States, by climbing first to the col between the Egger and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976 when the 3-person team summitted.[4]
1978 North Ridge on Latok I, Karakorum Range, Pakistan. Attempt with Michael Kennedy, George Lowe and Jeff Lowe (climber) (all USA).[5]
1991 Cobra Pillar on the east face of Mount Barrille, Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range, Alaska, USA (VI 5.10+ A3 WI5? 2300m) FA with Jack Tackle (USA), June 5–10, 1991.[6]
1991 Viper Ridge, south spur of southeast ridge to ridge, Mount Foraker, Alaska Range, Alaska USA. FA with Jack Tackle (USA), June 11–17, 1991.[7]
2000 Lightning Spur, south face Thunder Mountain, Alaska Range, Alaska USA. FA with John Bragg (USA).[8]
Seems that 1991 was a productive year.
What happened on June 10th and 11th?
Did you catch a flight?
Sounds like the ultimate Alaska season . . .
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Jan 31, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
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Jim's been climbing,
a LONG, long, long long, long time!!!!
 Missing photo ID#203711 |
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 31, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
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Ass could mean
*Butt
*Donkey
Suave generally means
*Smooth
So I think he's saying Donini's got a smooth butt or something.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 31, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
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I'm confused. Why would C0z have to endure Jim's smooth ass? He said he wasn't an alpinest and I'm sure Jim is always the big spoon anyway.
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coz
Gym climber
Belmont
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Jan 31, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
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OK,
I'm trying to get a legit story,
Overhanging Overpass?
Tell the tale Jim.
Ass Suave=Ass kissser
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Jan 31, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
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Jim is the only guy I know who can climb better than most guys half his age.
He will most likely hike faster in the mountains than just about anyone I know, as well.
Jim is the only guy I ever climbed with, who faked a leader fall, 20 feet above his last pro, on a 5.10 crack climb, just to scare the sh#t out of me.
Watch out for him, when he's driving on dirt roads--frightening.
I appreciate him for many fond memories; recent and BITD.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO
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Jan 31, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jan 31, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
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Jim is the only guy I ever climbed with, who faked a leader fall, 20 feet above his last pro, on a 5.10 crack climb, just to scare the sh#t out of me.
Priceless, but who is Jim Donini? Is he a rad climber like Ondra?
Help me out here.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Jan 31, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
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I think he's Fred Becky's grandfather
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jan 31, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
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Be it Alaska, an unclimbed Patagonian wall, the Snaz, or Eldo, I've bitched out El Senor Jim dozens of times for not bothering to put in reasonable quantities of protection, even when he has been carrying it... every time knowing he was doing it just to piss me off.
A corollary to this scene:
Me: "Watch me, I'm f*#king gripped."
Jim: "You're doing fine."
Me: gripped, cruxing, scared, above gear. I look down. Jim has both hands focusing his SLR camera (pre-digital days, these), and none on the rope. "WTF, Jim?"
Jim: (click... click...) "You're fine. You haven't fallen yet."
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 31, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
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To a good guy, one hell of a climber and a good fisherman.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 31, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
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I'm with Coz...story time please.
Hey Donini- you did some climbing at Granite Mtn back in the day.
Old fakkas who climb as much and as hard as Jim Donini deserve respect and appreciation.
Hats off to you Donini.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Jan 31, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
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Respect!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 31, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
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Great to see you in SLC, Jim!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A classic Crouch shot of Sergeant Rock on the Cobra Pillar in the Ruth.
Back when Jim lived in Seattle and I was spending a lot of time climbing indoors, I would occasionally watch him line up a partner after a bit of observation. If the climber in question was moving well, then Jim would move in and sign him up for basic training.
I remember one of his new recruits coming over to me after enlisting to ask earnestly,"How's that guy climb?" My reply was "5.11 until you drop!" LOL
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jim once talked a guy into spending a season in Patagonia with him when the guy HAD NEVER HAD CRAMPONS ON HIS FEET BEFORE.
He did really well, too.
(Thanks for the scan, which I've just poached and added to the gallery of Jim photos on my website.)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The photo of Jim is my favorite portrait of him, so thanks and you're welcome.
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Tami
Social climber
Canada
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LOVE the tea cozy. You dawgs seen Alpinist #41 ? I had Fun With Donini. It's on one of the pages in there. :-) !!!!!!!!
Hahahaha fer Jim !!!
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