Jim Donini Appreciation thread

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 153 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Reeotch

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Jan 31, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
I ain't suaving no one's ass . . .

Jim what's the story with this: (from Jim's Wikipedia page, how many Taco heads have their own Wikipedia page??!!!)
Notable climbs

1976 Torre Egger - First Ascent - with John Bragg, and Jay Wilson from the United States, by climbing first to the col between the Egger and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976 when the 3-person team summitted.[4]
1978 North Ridge on Latok I, Karakorum Range, Pakistan. Attempt with Michael Kennedy, George Lowe and Jeff Lowe (climber) (all USA).[5]
1991 Cobra Pillar on the east face of Mount Barrille, Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range, Alaska, USA (VI 5.10+ A3 WI5? 2300m) FA with Jack Tackle (USA), June 510, 1991.[6]
1991 Viper Ridge, south spur of southeast ridge to ridge, Mount Foraker, Alaska Range, Alaska USA. FA with Jack Tackle (USA), June 1117, 1991.[7]
2000 Lightning Spur, south face Thunder Mountain, Alaska Range, Alaska USA. FA with John Bragg (USA).[8]

Seems that 1991 was a productive year.

What happened on June 10th and 11th?

Did you catch a flight?

Sounds like the ultimate Alaska season . . .
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Jan 31, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
Jim's been climbing,
a LONG, long, long long, long time!!!!

photo not found
Missing photo ID#203711
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 31, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
Ass could mean
*Butt
*Donkey

Suave generally means
*Smooth

So I think he's saying Donini's got a smooth butt or something.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Jan 31, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
I'm confused. Why would C0z have to endure Jim's smooth ass? He said he wasn't an alpinest and I'm sure Jim is always the big spoon anyway.
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Jan 31, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
Jim is the only guy I know who can climb better than most guys half his age.

He will most likely hike faster in the mountains than just about anyone I know, as well.

Jim is the only guy I ever climbed with, who faked a leader fall, 20 feet above his last pro, on a 5.10 crack climb, just to scare the sh#t out of me.

Watch out for him, when he's driving on dirt roads--frightening.

I appreciate him for many fond memories; recent and BITD.
TWP

Trad climber
Mancos, CO
Jan 31, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
Wind Rivers, August 2012, Jim Speaks; the People &#40;Corey Fleagle ak...
Wind Rivers, August 2012, Jim Speaks; the People (Corey Fleagle aka El Verracito) Listen.
Credit: TWP
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jan 31, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
Jim is the only guy I ever climbed with, who faked a leader fall, 20 feet above his last pro, on a 5.10 crack climb, just to scare the sh#t out of me.

Priceless, but who is Jim Donini? Is he a rad climber like Ondra?

Help me out here.
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Jan 31, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
I think he's Fred Becky's grandfather
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Jan 31, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
Be it Alaska, an unclimbed Patagonian wall, the Snaz, or Eldo, I've bitched out El Senor Jim dozens of times for not bothering to put in reasonable quantities of protection, even when he has been carrying it... every time knowing he was doing it just to piss me off.

A corollary to this scene:

Me: "Watch me, I'm f*#king gripped."

Jim: "You're doing fine."

Me: gripped, cruxing, scared, above gear. I look down. Jim has both hands focusing his SLR camera (pre-digital days, these), and none on the rope. "WTF, Jim?"

Jim: (click... click...) "You're fine. You haven't fallen yet."
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jan 31, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
Credit: mike m
Credit: mike m
To a good guy, one hell of a climber and a good fisherman.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 31, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
I'm with Coz...story time please.
Hey Donini- you did some climbing at Granite Mtn back in the day.

Old fakkas who climb as much and as hard as Jim Donini deserve respect and appreciation.
Hats off to you Donini.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Jan 31, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
Respect!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 1, 2013 - 12:28am PT
Name that Donini route...
Name that Donini route...
Credit: Brian in SLC

Great to see you in SLC, Jim!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 1, 2013 - 11:41am PT
A classic Crouch shot of Sergeant Rock on the Cobra Pillar in the Ruth.



Back when Jim lived in Seattle and I was spending a lot of time climbing indoors, I would occasionally watch him line up a partner after a bit of observation. If the climber in question was moving well, then Jim would move in and sign him up for basic training.

I remember one of his new recruits coming over to me after enlisting to ask earnestly,"How's that guy climb?" My reply was "5.11 until you drop!" LOL
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Feb 1, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
Jim once talked a guy into spending a season in Patagonia with him when the guy HAD NEVER HAD CRAMPONS ON HIS FEET BEFORE.

He did really well, too.

(Thanks for the scan, which I've just poached and added to the gallery of Jim photos on my website.)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 1, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
The photo of Jim is my favorite portrait of him, so thanks and you're welcome.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 1, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
LOVE the tea cozy. You dawgs seen Alpinist #41 ? I had Fun With Donini. It's on one of the pages in there. :-) !!!!!!!!


Hahahaha fer Jim !!!
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Feb 1, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
Tami, I had to look at that tea cozy on three expeditions that year.

Frackin' nightmare.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 1, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
is it just me, or does JD look like hed fit in well on a Monty Python skit!??
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Feb 1, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
Strangely, while ferreting around in the dungeons of my computer for something else, I found two long-forgotten shots of Jim and added 'em to my pictures of Donini post, including this one:

Credit: Gregory Crouch

I think it might be from the trip to the Kichatna Spires when we flew in on one half day of good weather, sat in the tent for 21 days and flew out on the next half day of good weather.

Read a boxfull of books and drank a boxfull of booze on that trip, so it wasn't a total waste, but we never tied a knot in anger.
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