and I bet you thought Twight was dead????


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Social climber
An Oil Field
Feb 1, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
On the topic of O's on Everest:

Once Michael Graber tried to nab a Marlboro off of me in a bar. I grabbed them back like he was trying to steal my wee wee or something.

See...he had to turn around really close to the summit of Everest a short time before. I didn't want to pollute his lungs!!

Things also used to be very different 20 or 30 years ago. This was Robbins or Chouinard, or somebody's vision:

Yosemite was the pinnacle of world climbing and everyone had to come and do El Cap and get drug up painful offwidths. No sh#t. You really had to come to the valley and get good.

Then you were supposed to take that skill into the high mountains and do wicked hard routes rather than the "generally" easy routes on the big mountains.

The problem with that is that some of the best climbers on Earth can rule the world below 15,000 feet. When they go higher they always get sick. Altitude sickness is serious.

Something like that. Then eventually the valley quit being the mecca of the planet.

That discovery channel series was excellent to watch. There were some tough old suckers, your young narcisists, endurance athletes who wanted to try it. They don't even carry ice tools. Pony up the money and go.

I kind of enjoyed the show. It wasn't really climbing, but that's OK. People do all sorts of crazy stuff.

Feb 1, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
Where does Viagra fall in line in this mode of thinking cuz im for a PED like viagra nothing better than a 2 hour boner even if you only need it for the two pump hump.;)


Trad climber
Feb 2, 2013 - 08:47am PT
Every climber started their sport by emulating, others who had gone before them.

I first met MT in New Hampshire, while hiking up to do a climb on Whitehorse Ledge. He was cutting wood on John Bouchard's timber lot. John had taken a liking to him and gave him a job.

At that time Bouchard was a top flight alpinist and I'm sure MT was influenced by Bouchard's style.


Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
"Every climber started their sport by emulating, others who had gone before them."

good comment and so true.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 2, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
Fostering a cult of personality is nothing new in climbing internationally but it usually galls a bit over here.

I used to joke that Twight couldn't take a dump without a shriek and a paragraph and he seems to be a man who needs a lot of attention even now.

I do wonder where the posturing and self irony ends.

Hard to imagine having the opportunity of hanging with Tom Frost, Henry Kendall and Jeff Lowe and yet preferring to pass the time in a smoky tent instead. That degree of self involvement is a bit tragic from my perspective.

Jeff's comments on the Kiss or Kill thread are very telling.

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
Right on Coz.

Found this on House's web site. Telling in this discussion I think.

"I want to say that the term normal route is deceptive on a mountain of this scale, it only gets climbed every few years (I believe a total of 4 ascents this year, there were a couple of other oxygen-assisted ascents, but those donít count in my book).

One of the lessons of this expeditions was that for us to go to such a monsterous peak as their first 8,000íer was a judgement error on the part of Marko and I. My first 8,000íer was Cho Oyu, which is a total piece of cake in comparison, similar to climbing Denali. Makalu is steeper, higher, and simply more massive; a much more difficult proposition. To wit: Most parties who summit Makalu spend four days about 7,400 meters. By comparison on Cho Oyu the high camp is at 7,300 meters and from there to the summit takes most acclimated climbers (again, only counting those not cheating) about 8-12 hours.

...was almost a non-starter in part because both Marko and I objected to acclimating on the normal route, which shot us in the foot because it was pretty hard to get properly acclimated without going up there. We shunned the normal route because we both hate the trashy fixed lines, and we donít relish the drama-scene that exists on all normal routes on big mountains these days. There are simply too many climbers breathing bottled oxygen and getting in way over their heads. This can end tragically as it did on our last days on the mountain when a Swiss climber died. Marko and I tried to get four O2 bottles up to her, but before we could reach her location (at Makalu La, 7,300 meters) we got word that she had passed......

I think that the real question now is this: Am I willing to meet the mountain on the terms it demands? I canít know that answer right now."

more here:

Social climber
Feb 2, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
Ever climbed that 8000 Coz? Did you use ladders?

Did you meet Rob McDonald on 300? What do you make of blokes that strut around reminding people of how bad arse they are(were?) - he hasn'd done an MMA fight in years yet still tells everyone he IS still an MMA fighter - thought Twight would have pulled him into line on that since his beloved "disciple" trains/exercises but doesn't seem to be still competing at anything.

Bhouy does that Gym Jones crowd love to Twitter.

Wonder why MFT didn't want to go to the rock gym - you hung a tonne, so was it you or him?

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
Orange you are an idiot.

As the man said, "I could explain it to you, but I can' comprehend it for you."

Anyone that has spent any time seriously doing MMA knows he is a fighter and his rung on that ladder. Not climbing or being unable to climb doen't make you something else. Unless you want to tell me Jello is no longer a climber...

Social climber
Feb 2, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
When did he last fight mate? He claims to still be doing such.

FYI: Attended a two-day seminar in SLC. Mutton dressed as lamb

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
Ha, ha, ha! btdt and got the t shirt. Several of them. Now they are all worn or wasted, thrown or given away. But still got the T shirt :)

Never needed one lately to tell me, or anyone else btdt.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 2, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
bit'er ol' guy

the past
Feb 3, 2013 - 12:49am PT

Marc Twight backs it up.

02 as doping.

McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 3, 2013 - 01:18am PT
I always like Mark's Entertainment - the over the top bravado that almost mocked climbing.

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Feb 3, 2013 - 01:41am PT
gonna lay some heavy bread on y'all:

the post-post-irony is that Twight's Dr. Doomisms weren't shtick at all
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Feb 3, 2013 - 02:10am PT
I'm not saying they weren't real - I'm saying it was entertaining. It was cool that he would come out and say it. I could tell it was real terror, at least in the sense that it seemed like the real normally unspoken thing. I guess the marvel was that somebody could climb and feel that way. Sex with death! Death to Sanity! It pretty much just goes with the territory; No country for old men.

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Feb 3, 2013 - 03:11am PT
Talked to a friend with ACTUAL first hand knowledge.

I recant my previous statements about Mark being an A-hole.
Apparently I was completely misreading the man.
Sorry Mark.

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
Interesting follow up to Twight's original comment.
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