and I bet you thought Twight was dead????

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RDB

Social climber
wa
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 29, 2013 - 12:03am PT
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/01/what-cheaters-have-done-to-us.html

Add to that list Diamox for clients, guides and the idoits on Rainier.

Did it myself on occasion bitd but agreed with Twight on this and would take the label of cheater even further now obviously.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Jan 29, 2013 - 12:13am PT
Marc Twight isn't dead. He's based out of Salt Lake City. Among other things he's been doing some personal training for movie actors including the recent movie '300' and it's sequel. He's totally into road cycling these days. Our paths crossed on bikes in the Dolomites this summer. BTW, he is just as badass on a bike as he was on rock, ice and snow!
orangesporanges

Social climber
Jan 29, 2013 - 01:43am PT
A decade and more ago I cared deeply about the way we climbed more than whether we were successful
People lie on resumés and cheat on tests to get jobs

MFT has stated that he attempted Everest alpine style
They turned back when his team mate got crook
Some may think he burdened others
When he used oxygen cached by another team to treat his crook climbing buddy
Because they hadn't bought along any oxygen themselves

MFT dumped rope up on Denali
Because he no longer needed it to complete the route

MFT once....
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jan 29, 2013 - 04:21am PT
Twight's not dead???

DMT
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jan 29, 2013 - 04:44am PT
Dead to me after that article bashing all the ordinary/poser climbers on Denali while his team abandons/litters their tents and gear to move fast like real posers and then basicly needs to be rescued by using other climbers tents and gear on the decent to survive at 17k
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 29, 2013 - 04:52am PT
"When I look across a variety of disciplines it is apparent that no one is special and no one is immune: when a group of human beings get together some percentage of them are going to cheat or be susceptible to the idea of it. Sadly, it appears this is true for any sport..."--O.P.

If I were to use an inhaler on the YPB, would I be cheating? Would you deny me the pleasure of announcing I had done it? Who on earth would care,
or would I have the approbation of the community for having done it as an older climber still "with it"? There is no difference in the ethic involved. You either have assistance or not.

It is legal, it's got that going for it.

crock

Trad climber
The Windiest Mountain, Wyoming
Jan 29, 2013 - 06:09am PT
Any climber that uses sticky rubber or cams is dead to me.
Degaine

climber
Jan 29, 2013 - 06:14am PT
Can there be cheating in an activity that has no rules or organized competition?

I have always appreciated Twight’s articles and that he expresses his point of view, whether I agree or not.

Per the article referenced, I’m curious as to where he draws the line. Given the tone of the article, by his definition, only Goran Kropp has climbed Everest by fair, “non cheating” means.
mt10910

climber
Jan 29, 2013 - 06:32am PT
Who is Mark Twight?

edit: Just internet the name.

Got a definition: "Guy who thought very well of himself, but not others."
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Jan 29, 2013 - 06:41am PT
that alpinist dude who has been rescued twice from death was just posting on facebook about skiing with supposed dead dude.
that alpinist dude is always going off on this horsehit oxygen stuff even though he was rescued with oxygen after developing edema on makalu and also given oxygen after getting the chop on temple.

He must have filled supposed dead dudes ear with this boring gibberish..
anyway - way to have you own thoughts supposed dead dude. Can we talk about bolts now?.

On a side note I have a funny story..
I recovered a kid yesterday after he had EGD surgery to repair some bleeding ulcers . He is 16 and has bone cancer..
So you are like where is the funny part right? lol
Well, he loves Play Station and since he has bone cancer it is basically the only thing in his life that is fun and cool.
Well, when he travels to Houston to get some very high doses of radiation and chemo someone breaks into his house and steals his PlayStation and all his games..

bahaha
I mean can you imagine the look on his face!!
He must have been like where is my playstation? ..WTH? haha
funny right!
On top of it all his family is really poor..

ohhh man..we laughed and laughed

don't worry - we bought him a new one...
but it was pretty funny well it lasted..


10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Jan 29, 2013 - 08:46am PT
I have always respected is climbing prowess, but thought he was an egotistical ass.
I've changed my mind. One just has to understand where he is coming from
RDB

Social climber
wa
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 08:49am PT
"Dead to me after that article bashing all the ordinary/poser climbers on Denali while his team abandons/litters their tents and gear to move fast like real posers and then basicly needs to be rescued by using other climbers tents and gear on the decent to survive at 17k"

then you are gonna just love what is coming next :)
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 29, 2013 - 09:10am PT
Funny how well "judge not lest you be judged" applies here.

I suppose we have all made statements about others climbing that were definitely negative. We can tend to rip into others especially among friends.

Twight has printed some of that type of stuff. So it's not too surprising that it comes back on him when something he has done might not quite hold up to highest possible standards.

What a difference from someone like Alex Lowe. He seemed to like everyone, I never heard him say or be reported to say crap about others. He's a guy everyone liked.

Both amazing Alpinists yet perceived so differently.

Some of what Twight writes seems to be a bit of a "schtick" that he uses cause it sells. I've heard folks who know him say a lot of good things about him. Funny intelligent, decent guy in real life. He certainly has a way of putting things such that you tend to think on it. Maybe even agree even if it does sound jerkish.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 29, 2013 - 09:12am PT
I have always appreciated Twight’s articles and that he expresses his point of view, whether I agree or not.

Yes that! It is nice to hear what is REALLY on someone's mind.

AND I will give a lot of credibility to one who has the balls to get on Slovac Direct with a day pack (among MANY other routes that appear semi insane).

But has he done steroids (or other performance enhancing drugs) himself? I don't know. Trust no one. Especially when they talk a lot (like Armstrong, who sued everyone who called him a cheater).

then you are gonna just love what is coming next :)

so what's next?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 29, 2013 - 09:13am PT
10b4me, you aren't far off....however, i do agree with him in this area.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jan 29, 2013 - 09:18am PT
What Tradman said.
RDB

Social climber
wa
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 09:18am PT
The Donini I knew had an ego as well and could be a prick. Just not generally an egotistical prick.

Anyone that sticks their head up and voices an opinion gets my respect. You don't have to love them or the opinion.

Slovak? Easy to judge on that one...harder to understand the effort or style 13 years later. Not a lot then or now that have played that game.

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 29, 2013 - 09:19am PT
Everest is dead to me, and my friends who are still on it.
It's just Public Assisstance for Sherpas and mountain pimps.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 29, 2013 - 09:26am PT
As to the cheating thing and O2. GAAAAAAG ME WITH A SPOON PLEASE!!!!!

What an old and tired argument. It's like a cheap troll post. Right up there with bolting controversies. 40 years of this or more. Seriously?!

Whatever tools you use to play this pointless game are up to you. You make the rules at least when it comes to technique. Just be honest is one of the few real rules.
RDB

Social climber
wa
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 09:30am PT
Really? How about Diamox on Denali...."just to be safe".

You good with that?

I have friends that use Diamox on Rainier..."just to be safe".

You good with that?

I don't see the difference between that and testosterine use in age group atheletes.
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