The day the Nose gets free soloed

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 47 of total 47 in this topic
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 28, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
It seems inevitable that at some point in time
someone is going to put it all together both
mentally and physically and 3rd class the Nose.

When?...

I'm not sure I'd wanna watch when it goes down...would you ?

I do not solo anymore...gives me the booboojeebies thinking
back to my soloin days ..yes Werner I am a stupid american
sissy :) I have only been up E.C. twice and the thought of
bein up there ropeless is mindbending. As part of the "earlier"
generation of climbing I look at what the "kids" are doin
these days and thinkin hoy cow ... it's gonna happen.
Curious as to ya'alls thoughts..

And yes , in the big picture....so what.


Ground




this just in

climber
north fork
Jan 28, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
Yes, I think it will happen by either Potter or Honnold. 5-10 years or next summer. I would love to be an eyewitness of such an event.
WBraun

climber
Jan 28, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
Nose gets free soloed

Won't happen anytime soon.

Go do the nose free with a rope and you'll understand why.

There are other El Cap routes that are much more possible than just jumping onto the Nose.

At this moment in time it's suicidal.

Only people who never even tried to free climb the entire Nose route would make up this fantasy in their heads and project them as free soloing ......
nopantsben

climber
Jan 28, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
neither honnold nor potter have even freed it.

if you look at the changing corners and have free climbed before, you'll understand that free soloing that section won't happen in the next decades.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jan 28, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
The Nose and Freerider both have insecure, low probability cruxes. These kinds of pitches rarely get soloed close to the ground. I'd say never. I doubt Freerider will ever get soloed, either. Even Alex still pops off the Boulder Problem crux. Dean isn't good enough to free the Nose with a rope, never has been. It doesn't appear to be his thing. Alex probably could, but it would be a project.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 28, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
Soloing 5.14 that far off the deck? I'm all for progress and folks doing things that blow our minds. That is not something I have to see however.

I do not like the idea of soloing things you have any chance of falling on. (well there are always objective risks such as random falling objects). But the skill level of the climber shouldn't be in a bit of doubt. I always felt comfortable when watching Honnold. He never seemed close to pushing it too far. Which is part of what is so impressive

Being 100% certain of not falling on oddball funky 5.14 after a couple thousand feet of hard work seems.. much more impressive than anything I've heard of being done. Or much less if someone is sketching it whatsoever.

Regardless I don't think anyone is even close to being able at this time.
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Jan 28, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
Salathe would get done before the Nose. Maybe Freerider in our lifetimes...
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jan 28, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
Being 100% certain of not falling on oddball funky 5.14 after a couple thousand feet of hard work seems.. much more impressive than anything I've heard of being done.

Yes, I think it will happen by either Potter or Honnold. 5-10 years

Add that the hero will be 50 per the prediction of the second quote to the first quote, and it gets even more impressive. ;-)

I'm probably not fit enough to jug to Dolt right now, so bless anyone who can do what they do.
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
I throw this out there merely as campfire conversation..
fantasy?....i don't know but think it will get done someday

another question is which route first , i mention the Nose
cuz' it's so iconic .. any route would be amazing..

I would imagine that 40-50 years ago astroman would have
seemed very unlikely ?
this just in

climber
north fork
Jan 28, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
Werner, I've never even aided the nose, lol. How many thought it was impossible for anyone to free it before Lynn did just that?
ElGreco

Mountain climber
Jan 28, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
Second what nopantsben and climbski2 said.

I asked Honnold in person at a talk he gave a couple of months ago at the local gym. He said that he wouldn't do it and that he didn't think anyone ever would. Said he solos stuff he's really confident on and that low 5.14 or high 5.13 doesn't fit that bill. It's so far from what anyone can free confidently that it's not on the cards.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 28, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
I doubt anyone thought it was impossible to free since the late 80's at the latest. When or if someone would do it? But not that was doable.

Could a 5.15 climber have the confidence? The wall skills and determination to work the project? The endurance? I really don't know. A lot would have to come together in the right person at the right time.

5.14? 5.15.. Those numbers don't mean anything to me though. Very abstract. That is a level I have as much real experience with as walking on the moon.
WBraun

climber
Jan 28, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
How many thought it was impossible for anyone to free it before Lynn did just that?


Where have you been?

Living under a rock?

Lynn is not the first to even try or think about it what to speak of believing it was possible.

There's a whole succession behind the feat of free climbing the Nose itself ......
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 28, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
^^^ so says one of those who worked on it.

I've seen some old vids of you and Ron :) Very cool stuff.
this just in

climber
north fork
Jan 28, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
True, and I think the fact that it's freed is part of the succession to being soloed. I do think if honnold projected it, he would be the most likely. If Caldwell soloed anyone think he could do it?
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
Jan 28, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
You want SuperTopo melodrama?

I give you:

CLIMB and PUNISHMENT
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jan 28, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
I'd love to be there for a free solo of El Cap, regardless of the route.

I was there for the first NIAD and TheSilentPartner and Blanchard (I was a Fed and had to work) were there for the first NIAD solo. . . it would be astonishing to be there for the next big step.

Interestingly, I wonder if said soloist would want a huge crowd? Would it fuel the stoke or put on too much pressure?

?

Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Jan 28, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
Seems like a force fit. The nose has been done, it's been free climbed, speed climbed, and Dean Potter solo'd the soloable parts. I hope no one tries to solo the insecure 5.13 moves on the nose to get that record. Even for high level climbers its a serious risk of death.

There's lots of long hard routes that could be soloed, though, on Cerro Torre, Trango Tower, etc. There's other barriers that can be broken, aside from trying to free solo super thin face moves.
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Jan 28, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
Right now it's still fairly inconceivable, but I reckon it is inevitable the Nose will eventually get free-soloed.

Unless the end of the world eventuates first.

But it will be quite some time, and other El Cap routes will have become more routine free-solos before the Nose ever gets soloed.

(sitting comfortably in my armchair): I reckon the Nose solo within the next 15 years. Perhaps the first El Cap free-solo within the next 5 years.

In my short time as a climber, observing first as a beginner, then as intense as I could live it for some years, and now as an armchair enthusiast, the realm of the possible seem a bit like Moore's Law. The exponential talent and drive of guys like Potter and Honnold continue a clear pattern of pioneering the prior generation's inconceivable.

No doubt this will continue.


McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Jan 28, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
This from the climb and punishment thread;
I'm also pretty sure Alex could give a hobos dickcheese what anybody on the taco says about what he does and where they think his head is at. Just my 1cent.


I doubt this is true. To the degree that we care about Alex, he probably pays the same attention to the climbing community.

Snowmassguy

Trad climber
Calirado
Jan 28, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
This needs to play out like the 1st ascent of the Eiger.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Jan 28, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
I'm always reminded of the Pied Piper driving rats into the water for some reason.
Snowmassguy

Trad climber
Calirado
Jan 28, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
Jon Krakauer can pen the novel. NY Times best seller.
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Jan 28, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
any truth to the rumor that Honnold was thinking of free soloing Lurking Fear?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jan 28, 2013 - 03:00pm PT
5.13c ultra crimps? I think not.
nopantsben

climber
Jan 28, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
and it is 14a with no crimps whatsoever. there is no holds and they're doing magic...
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Jan 28, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
If I'm still alive at 90 and nobody has tried it, I'll be the first one to try! Mark my words!
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jan 28, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
^^^Illegal air delivery. :-p
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 28, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
If I'm still alive at 90 and nobody has tried it, I'll be the first one to try! Mark my words!

Yer gonna die! LOL
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jan 28, 2013 - 03:34pm PT

what about when FreeBASE gets more participants?

Perhaps that'll allow one to project soloing EC?



Michelle

Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Jan 28, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
there is no holds and they're doing magic...

Wouldn't using magic be considered using aid?

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 28, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
My vote is still with Freerider.
OR

Trad climber
Jan 28, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
Thats true^^^ about the freebase thing. So when Potter was doing his speed solo thing how much was he freesoloing? He wes protecting only a few short sections no? Where is the .14 crux sections? I think a freesolo is not as far off as we think but damn I dont think I could watch it.
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
BVB, you are probably right..that would bring
the Nose a little closer though.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 28, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
I think these things should have a logical progression. No one has freed the Nose without falling, pulling the rope, and redpointing the pitch as far as I understand. If no one can climb it without falling, to say the least proposing a free solo is a little silly...

Josh
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 28, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
Gonna need lots of pads for sure.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 28, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
If no one can climb it without falling, to say the least proposing a free solo is a little silly...

THAT!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jan 28, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
Nets are the obvious solution. McHale is the man to design and implement the technology.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Jan 28, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
I was proposing the air-bag type release of ultra fine fiber that would catch on rock crystals - would release when brain waves show surprise or angst or expletive deleteds occur.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Jan 28, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
Right now it's still fairly inconceivable, but I reckon it is inevitable the Nose will eventually get free-soloed

I agree. In the 60 years since I began climbing I have seen the inconceivable gravitate to the merely challenging. If it is true "The past is a different country: they do things differently there" (The Go-Between), then the same can be said of the future.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Jan 28, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
What Deuce and John Gill say about progress are right on.....but still, whew.

There's some lil kids cranking stuff in the gyms that would have been beyond description 5 years back, some of them are taking to the cliffs with startling and impressive results. Who knows what's possible ?
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Jan 28, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
free soloing with a base rig
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Jan 28, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
is the day I pull my motorized wheelchair up to the crag and send a 5.3
WBraun

climber
Jan 28, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
There's guys already around that can free solo any route on El Cap.

They won't do it though.

They don't want nor need to be reveled.

It would fuk all you people up ......
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jan 28, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
free soloing with a base rig
This is another armchair fantasy. Reality is that the El Cap routes that go free have too many features to hit long before a chute would open. Even on the Salathe Headwall, there's Sous Le Toit and slabs for a few hundred feet below it in the way. The Nose upper dihedrals are a giant low angle drainpipe with numerous ledges. If it could be done with a reasonable level of sanity, I think it would have been attempted by now, for sure.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 28, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
Just back from the OR show. Most notable change for me since i worked in the outdoor industry was the amazing number of incredible climbers who were there as "atheletes" or " ambassadors" for outdoor companies. There were also a ton more who were looking for sponsorship.
There is now intense competition for a limited amount of sponsorship dollars. To stand out from the crowd you have to do more and more outrageous things. A few years ago Alex Honnold was nowhere in the sponsorship arena and now he is a corporate darling....and for good reason. His accomplishments speak for himself and he's a great guy to boot.
Take home lesson....young climbers are wondering how to make that jump to stardom.....soloing El Cap comes to mind. Something like that should be uniquely, unqualifiedly PERSONAL. Other motives portend trouble.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jan 29, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
It has been free-soloed, sort of. I saw it on Star Trek V: The Final Frontier. Kirk is free-soloing but is startled by Spock in "jet boots" and falls.

So I guess it has not been free-soloed.


BTW, while I have always liked the original Star Trek series and some of the subsequent films with the original cast members. I am not a Trekkie. I just remember that scene, probably because it was shot in the Valley.

I never saw any of the other Star Trek offshots (perhaps watched a couple of minutes, and at an Actor's Masterclass at the Galway Film Fleadh, Colm Meaney was the featured talker and spoke some of the series he was in).

Though I liked the latest movie with the new young cast.
Messages 1 - 47 of total 47 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews