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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 28, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
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It seems inevitable that at some point in time
someone is going to put it all together both
mentally and physically and 3rd class the Nose.
When?...
I'm not sure I'd wanna watch when it goes down...would you ?
I do not solo anymore...gives me the booboojeebies thinking
back to my soloin days ..yes Werner I am a stupid american
sissy :) I have only been up E.C. twice and the thought of
bein up there ropeless is mindbending. As part of the "earlier"
generation of climbing I look at what the "kids" are doin
these days and thinkin hoy cow ... it's gonna happen.
Curious as to ya'alls thoughts..
And yes , in the big picture....so what.
Ground
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
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Yes, I think it will happen by either Potter or Honnold. 5-10 years or next summer. I would love to be an eyewitness of such an event.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
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Nose gets free soloed
Won't happen anytime soon.
Go do the nose free with a rope and you'll understand why.
There are other El Cap routes that are much more possible than just jumping onto the Nose.
At this moment in time it's suicidal.
Only people who never even tried to free climb the entire Nose route would make up this fantasy in their heads and project them as free soloing ......
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nopantsben
climber
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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neither honnold nor potter have even freed it.
if you look at the changing corners and have free climbed before, you'll understand that free soloing that section won't happen in the next decades.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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The Nose and Freerider both have insecure, low probability cruxes. These kinds of pitches rarely get soloed close to the ground. I'd say never. I doubt Freerider will ever get soloed, either. Even Alex still pops off the Boulder Problem crux. Dean isn't good enough to free the Nose with a rope, never has been. It doesn't appear to be his thing. Alex probably could, but it would be a project.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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Soloing 5.14 that far off the deck? I'm all for progress and folks doing things that blow our minds. That is not something I have to see however.
I do not like the idea of soloing things you have any chance of falling on. (well there are always objective risks such as random falling objects). But the skill level of the climber shouldn't be in a bit of doubt. I always felt comfortable when watching Honnold. He never seemed close to pushing it too far. Which is part of what is so impressive
Being 100% certain of not falling on oddball funky 5.14 after a couple thousand feet of hard work seems.. much more impressive than anything I've heard of being done. Or much less if someone is sketching it whatsoever.
Regardless I don't think anyone is even close to being able at this time.
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
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Salathe would get done before the Nose. Maybe Freerider in our lifetimes...
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
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Being 100% certain of not falling on oddball funky 5.14 after a couple thousand feet of hard work seems.. much more impressive than anything I've heard of being done.
Yes, I think it will happen by either Potter or Honnold. 5-10 years
Add that the hero will be 50 per the prediction of the second quote to the first quote, and it gets even more impressive. ;-)
I'm probably not fit enough to jug to Dolt right now, so bless anyone who can do what they do.
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
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I throw this out there merely as campfire conversation..
fantasy?....i don't know but think it will get done someday
another question is which route first , i mention the Nose
cuz' it's so iconic .. any route would be amazing..
I would imagine that 40-50 years ago astroman would have
seemed very unlikely ?
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
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Werner, I've never even aided the nose, lol. How many thought it was impossible for anyone to free it before Lynn did just that?
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ElGreco
Mountain climber
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
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Second what nopantsben and climbski2 said.
I asked Honnold in person at a talk he gave a couple of months ago at the local gym. He said that he wouldn't do it and that he didn't think anyone ever would. Said he solos stuff he's really confident on and that low 5.14 or high 5.13 doesn't fit that bill. It's so far from what anyone can free confidently that it's not on the cards.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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I doubt anyone thought it was impossible to free since the late 80's at the latest. When or if someone would do it? But not that was doable.
Could a 5.15 climber have the confidence? The wall skills and determination to work the project? The endurance? I really don't know. A lot would have to come together in the right person at the right time.
5.14? 5.15.. Those numbers don't mean anything to me though. Very abstract. That is a level I have as much real experience with as walking on the moon.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 28, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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How many thought it was impossible for anyone to free it before Lynn did just that?
Where have you been?
Living under a rock?
Lynn is not the first to even try or think about it what to speak of believing it was possible.
There's a whole succession behind the feat of free climbing the Nose itself ......
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
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^^^ so says one of those who worked on it.
I've seen some old vids of you and Ron :) Very cool stuff.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jan 28, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
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True, and I think the fact that it's freed is part of the succession to being soloed. I do think if honnold projected it, he would be the most likely. If Caldwell soloed anyone think he could do it?
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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Seems like a force fit. The nose has been done, it's been free climbed, speed climbed, and Dean Potter solo'd the soloable parts. I hope no one tries to solo the insecure 5.13 moves on the nose to get that record. Even for high level climbers its a serious risk of death.
There's lots of long hard routes that could be soloed, though, on Cerro Torre, Trango Tower, etc. There's other barriers that can be broken, aside from trying to free solo super thin face moves.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
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Right now it's still fairly inconceivable, but I reckon it is inevitable the Nose will eventually get free-soloed.
Unless the end of the world eventuates first.
But it will be quite some time, and other El Cap routes will have become more routine free-solos before the Nose ever gets soloed.
(sitting comfortably in my armchair): I reckon the Nose solo within the next 15 years. Perhaps the first El Cap free-solo within the next 5 years.
In my short time as a climber, observing first as a beginner, then as intense as I could live it for some years, and now as an armchair enthusiast, the realm of the possible seem a bit like Moore's Law. The exponential talent and drive of guys like Potter and Honnold continue a clear pattern of pioneering the prior generation's inconceivable.
No doubt this will continue.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
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This from the climb and punishment thread;
I'm also pretty sure Alex could give a hobos dickcheese what anybody on the taco says about what he does and where they think his head is at. Just my 1cent.
I doubt this is true. To the degree that we care about Alex, he probably pays the same attention to the climbing community.
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
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This needs to play out like the 1st ascent of the Eiger.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
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I'm always reminded of the Pied Piper driving rats into the water for some reason.
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
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Jon Krakauer can pen the novel. NY Times best seller.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Jan 28, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
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any truth to the rumor that Honnold was thinking of free soloing Lurking Fear?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jan 28, 2013 - 03:00pm PT
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5.13c ultra crimps? I think not.
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nopantsben
climber
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Jan 28, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
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and it is 14a with no crimps whatsoever. there is no holds and they're doing magic...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jan 28, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
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If I'm still alive at 90 and nobody has tried it, I'll be the first one to try! Mark my words!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 28, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
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^^^Illegal air delivery. :-p
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 28, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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If I'm still alive at 90 and nobody has tried it, I'll be the first one to try! Mark my words!
Yer gonna die! LOL
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jan 28, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
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what about when FreeBASE gets more participants?
Perhaps that'll allow one to project soloing EC?
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Michelle
Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Jan 28, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
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there is no holds and they're doing magic...
Wouldn't using magic be considered using aid?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 28, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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My vote is still with Freerider.
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OR
Trad climber
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Jan 28, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
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Thats true^^^ about the freebase thing. So when Potter was doing his speed solo thing how much was he freesoloing? He wes protecting only a few short sections no? Where is the .14 crux sections? I think a freesolo is not as far off as we think but damn I dont think I could watch it.
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
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BVB, you are probably right..that would bring
the Nose a little closer though.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 28, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
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I think these things should have a logical progression. No one has freed the Nose without falling, pulling the rope, and redpointing the pitch as far as I understand. If no one can climb it without falling, to say the least proposing a free solo is a little silly...
Josh
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 28, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
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Gonna need lots of pads for sure.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 28, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
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If no one can climb it without falling, to say the least proposing a free solo is a little silly...
THAT!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 28, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
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Nets are the obvious solution. McHale is the man to design and implement the technology.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Jan 28, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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I was proposing the air-bag type release of ultra fine fiber that would catch on rock crystals - would release when brain waves show surprise or angst or expletive deleteds occur.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 28, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
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Right now it's still fairly inconceivable, but I reckon it is inevitable the Nose will eventually get free-soloed
I agree. In the 60 years since I began climbing I have seen the inconceivable gravitate to the merely challenging. If it is true "The past is a different country: they do things differently there" (The Go-Between), then the same can be said of the future.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 28, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
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What Deuce and John Gill say about progress are right on.....but still, whew.
There's some lil kids cranking stuff in the gyms that would have been beyond description 5 years back, some of them are taking to the cliffs with startling and impressive results. Who knows what's possible ?
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Jan 28, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
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free soloing with a base rig
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jan 28, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
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is the day I pull my motorized wheelchair up to the crag and send a 5.3
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 28, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
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There's guys already around that can free solo any route on El Cap.
They won't do it though.
They don't want nor need to be reveled.
It would fuk all you people up ......
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 28, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
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free soloing with a base rig This is another armchair fantasy. Reality is that the El Cap routes that go free have too many features to hit long before a chute would open. Even on the Salathe Headwall, there's Sous Le Toit and slabs for a few hundred feet below it in the way. The Nose upper dihedrals are a giant low angle drainpipe with numerous ledges. If it could be done with a reasonable level of sanity, I think it would have been attempted by now, for sure.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 28, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
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Just back from the OR show. Most notable change for me since i worked in the outdoor industry was the amazing number of incredible climbers who were there as "atheletes" or " ambassadors" for outdoor companies. There were also a ton more who were looking for sponsorship.
There is now intense competition for a limited amount of sponsorship dollars. To stand out from the crowd you have to do more and more outrageous things. A few years ago Alex Honnold was nowhere in the sponsorship arena and now he is a corporate darling....and for good reason. His accomplishments speak for himself and he's a great guy to boot.
Take home lesson....young climbers are wondering how to make that jump to stardom.....soloing El Cap comes to mind. Something like that should be uniquely, unqualifiedly PERSONAL. Other motives portend trouble.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jan 29, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
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It has been free-soloed, sort of. I saw it on Star Trek V: The Final Frontier. Kirk is free-soloing but is startled by Spock in "jet boots" and falls.
So I guess it has not been free-soloed.
BTW, while I have always liked the original Star Trek series and some of the subsequent films with the original cast members. I am not a Trekkie. I just remember that scene, probably because it was shot in the Valley.
I never saw any of the other Star Trek offshots (perhaps watched a couple of minutes, and at an Actor's Masterclass at the Galway Film Fleadh, Colm Meaney was the featured talker and spoke some of the series he was in).
Though I liked the latest movie with the new young cast.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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I doubt Freerider will ever get soloed Maybe Freerider in our lifetimes... My vote is still with Freerider.
2 out of 3 right ain't bad. ;)
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Deuce4 called it, rather accurately, in January of 2013:
(sitting comfortably in my armchair): I reckon the Nose solo within the next 15 years. Perhaps the first El Cap free-solo within the next 5 years.
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Jackityjack
climber
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Jun 18, 2017 - 06:55am PT
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turns out it doesn't matter because the nose just got naked'd... that's naked aided for those not in the know .. am sure I didn't want to be in the valley for that
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jun 18, 2017 - 10:42am PT
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It'll be Alex's apprentice in 3 years.. You know some young gun is out there getting psyched on his style right now and dreaming of the next big thing.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jun 18, 2017 - 02:16pm PT
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Right. Deuce was pretty spot on:
(sitting comfortably in my armchair): I reckon the Nose solo within the next 15 years. Perhaps the first El Cap free-solo within the next 5 years.
I think it will still be quite a while before the Nose gets soloed. I remember soloing a route that I had totally wired, but would still fall about 25% of the time. I up and soloed it one day. Never again, though. It had a micro smear in a lunge. I couldn't even do it until sticky rubber showed up.
The Changing Corners is a boulder problem, and I believe Lynn came back to do it in a day with no falls. Am I correct about no falls?
If I got it down to 75% or better, I'd be tempted. Good thing that I am too old and fat to free much of anything these days.
As for it being personal or not, I still hold firm that why one does something, especially soloing, is nobody's damn business.
Also, the BASE rig thing is a sham most of the time. If it isn't perfectly vertical or overhanging, you are gonna bounce before you get into clean air. It was good for the Rostrum, but we had been jumping the Rostrum since 1985.
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 18, 2017 - 03:07pm PT
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I still hold firm that why one does something, especially soloing, is nobody's damn business.
You just made it your business unknowingly ......
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
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Jun 18, 2017 - 03:15pm PT
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BASE104 wrote:
I remember soloing a route that I had totally wired, but would still fall about 25% of the time
How would you fall 25% of the time on a route that you had "totally wired"?
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jun 20, 2017 - 09:45am PT
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I knew exactly how to do the move. Still, my foot would skate about 1 out of 4 times. Like a boulder problem, I knew exactly how to do the move. Pulling it off was a little more problematic. You had to hike your left foot up really high, smear on a little dime edge, and then use it on a long lunge in one smooth motion. The smear was microscopic.
Like I said, I couldn't do the route in EB's. When Fire's showed up, I could do it. Barely.
It would be very dishonest to say that I on-sighted it, or anything along those lines. I'd done the route probably 25 times before I soloed it. Maybe more. That was why I said that I had it wired.
You can have it wired and still fall.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jun 20, 2017 - 09:51am PT
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You just made it your business unknowingly ......
You know what I'm talking about, Werner. People complain about soloists for all sorts of reasons. WHY they do it is their own damn business.
Honnold soloed it past several cameras, some were fixed and unmanned.
Does that detract from what he did? Would it have been better if he had done it quietly, and just showed up in the cafeteria saying that he had soloed it, or should he have done it and kept it totally quiet?
It is a can of worms. Why someone climbs something is personal on so many levels.
Anyway, I HATE it when I see people question the motives of someone. Who gives a sh#t? It doesn't affect the deed.
You used to tell us that you were heading down to solo the Gripper all the time. I never thought that you were spraying. It was an easy route for you. You just liked it, it seemed to me.
I've done the same thing. Most of my solo's were nothing but fun. Some were competitive. Who cares?
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Jun 20, 2017 - 02:35pm PT
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I climbed until I had falling wired... it was landing that never went so well.
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