What's happening in Patagonia?

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nopantsben

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 27, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
A lot of people have missed the chance of a lifetime to get up something down there the last days because they were at home!! f * # k .

what was climbed down there during the 10 day weather window? Apart from the west face of cerro torre ;-) ?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 27, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
10 day weather window?!?!?!
nopantsben

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
more, actually. not sure how much exactly though.
crøtch

climber
Jan 27, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
It happens. There was a 14-day window last year.
WBraun

climber
Jan 27, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
What's happening in Patagonia?

It's Sunday, the warehouse is closed.

They will be shipping again tomorrow on Monday as usual .....
ruppell

climber
Jan 27, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
From the Portal Store website.

Hello! We are out of the park for a few days, resupplying for the next two months. We have been there for 25 straight days and caught that weather window! We climbed for 15 days single push capsule style up the East Face of the North Tower of Paine. We free climbed every pitch except for one 6ft section that went at C1. It could easily be freed at 5.12 ,but with the weather closing and food diminishing we had to worry about seeing the summit. This makes the first complete route up the East Face of the North Tower. We planned on 12 days but were trapped for 15. Our portaledge is destroyed from ice and rock fall, most of our ropes are chopped, and the haul bags our all shot. It was absolutely intense! We summited in an entire white-out on day 13. Trapped in our tattered ledge for day 14 in the same white-out. Day 15 we pitch the bags from 2000ft up with the first hit of sunshine and start rappelling to the glacier below.

PLATE TECHTONICS VI, 5.12 C1 3000ft
15 days, single push capsule style 2013
Moser, Ness

Sounds like some sending being done by good friends. Hoping that every one else down there is sending as well.

Here's the direct link to that thread.

http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=93626&page=1&fpart=1
crøtch

climber
Jan 27, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
http://www.pataclimb.com/index.html
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Jan 27, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
Congrats Myles and Amy!! Proud FA you guys.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Jan 27, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
10 day weather window?!?!?!

V, that's what you get staying home for a seasonal girlfriend.
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Jan 28, 2013 - 12:48am PT
"What's happening in Patagonia?"
Real climbers are gettin' it done while you armchair has-beens are whining about boobs.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 28, 2013 - 01:05am PT
Nothing makes you an armchair climber quicker than boobs and babies. Nice work on the wall - some of us have to actually work and perpetuate the species...

Seriously - looks epic and hardcore.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 28, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
V, that's what you get staying home for a seasonal girlfriend.

You are terrible! I did go on a date yesterday though. She is kind of like you....a skier! ewwww (JK)
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 28, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
Compressor Route by fair means.
Check it.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jan 28, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
Real climbers are gettin' it done while you armchair has-beens are whining about boobs.

So true.
Justin DuBois

Trad climber
estes park co
Jan 28, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
people climbed amazing granite in an amazing place.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Feb 1, 2013 - 05:09am PT
Congrats to Colin Haley and Chad Kellogg:


http://www.colinhaley.blogspot.com.ar/2013/01/the-corkscrew.html
orle

climber
Feb 1, 2013 - 05:12am PT
Grim photo of the tunnel on the last pitch! Wow.
Grats to Chad, and Colin the Torre Guru Extraordinaire.
orle

climber
Feb 1, 2013 - 05:14am PT
29th January.


Major new route on Fitz Roy.


Flavio Daflon, Sergio Tartari, (Brazil) and Luciano Fiorenza (Argentina) climbed a massive new all free route in the north face of Fitz Roy

http://www.pataclimb.com/

Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Feb 1, 2013 - 05:21am PT
Good one Werner. LOL


As for the new route the two put up, awesome. I'm envious.
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Feb 1, 2013 - 09:01am PT
hahaha...Chinchen speaks truth
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 1, 2013 - 09:17am PT
Congrats to Vitals!



Uh.



What's your weather window?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 1, 2013 - 11:27am PT
Dave Allfrey just messages on Facebook that it's pretty windy, that they have real wind down there, not like this sissy sh#t we call wind up here. That and Cheyne was getting to be a pretty good cook.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 1, 2013 - 11:41am PT
^^^ Yeah, the first thing we were warned about when we rented a car in Calafate was
"Look to see what direction the wind is blowing before you open the car door."
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Feb 2, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
well, gotta say this global warming thing sure is fun down here. i have not been down for three years, but got in on some fun this year.

on jan 13 and 14, my wife, heather baer, local climber ivo kusanovic, and myself, steve schneider, climbed the south tower of paine. for heather, she is the first woman to summit all 3 of the towers of paine. big kudos for her.for ivo, he was the first local climber, from punta arenas, to summit all 3 towers. and although i had climbed the tower on my solo traverse of the massif 12 years earlier, i was able to free climb the route this time with no falls.
we were thwarted at the start when our gear stash attached to two fixed lines from a previous attempt blew UP the wall over 200 feet. since our harnesses were in that bag, retreival took some hours. this slow up meant that we were faced with an open bivy four pitches from the top. with our chilean partner retreated from a false route finding, i turned and asked heather ¨how bad do you want it¨, explaining that we would have to open bivy where we were. she agreed, so did ivo, and the shiverfest began. we waited all night for the sun, which eventually came and warmed us, only for a whiteout on the summit. retreat was difficult, with ropes getting stuck, we lost one completely, and rain and wind making it an adventure in itself.

arriving back in became after a 49 hour push, the santiago chileans let us in on the latest weather report. it was the best report i had ever seen for patagonia. heather, who was more than ready for a trip to town and a shower, was easily convinced to stay. we hired a personal porter on the spot, rested for three days, and then made an all free ascent of adrenalina vertical via the pennings 70 meter chimney variation. with only one rope, we were hopelessly committed to our plan of tagging the higher north tower and going down the monzino. we made 3 raps into the notch between the north tower summits, climbed 3 pitches to the summit gendarme, and at 1AM in the morning climbed the 5.8 summit gendarme. we rapped through the night, 17 in all, arriving at the base of the wall, where out porter enzo, who had made an open bivy waiting for us, schelped our gear down to base for a 36 hour push. it was like a seasons worth of climbing in a week!
of note is that with the two summits of the north tower, and the neighboring granite massif of peinetta actually make 5 summits of the towers of paine, not 3, and i believe heather and i are
the first two people to climb all five towers of paine.

we cleared all our stuff out of the park, being so satisfied that we didn´t want to climb in the park anymore. we just enjoyed a trek to the end of the world, a 5 day grueling backpack with heavy tidal restrictions, to cabo froward, the most southerly continental point in the world outside of antartica.

our chilean friends from santiago, besides using some old euro tricks with hot knives(no, i cannot do a third round), also sent, summiting the cental tower and south tower at the same time we did the north. for sebastian and cristobal, they were the 5th and 6th chileans to complete the tower trifecta, and the first to do it in a season. kudos

and as for amy and miles on the north tower, well...they came down and did the first complete ascent of the east face of the north tower, a face that has repelled all efforts, including strong slovenian and chilean teams. nice effort for the patagonian virgins, along with some epic stories of rockfall. 15 days on the face, a great effort.

ciao for now, shippopoi
nopantsben

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2013 - 02:07am PT
that's what I'm talking about, thanks! awesome!
m_jones

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
Feb 3, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
So cool - nice to hear about such awesome fun being had in mountains far away.

I am jealous of the young and tough!! Some day I'll get there if only to hike and take in the scenery.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Feb 3, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
"and as for amy and miles on the north tower, well...they came down and did the first complete ascent of the east face of the north tower, a face that has repelled all efforts, including strong slovenian and chilean teams. nice effort for the patagonian virgins, along with some epic stories of rockfall. 15 days on the face, a great effort. "

Amen Steve. Amy and Myles went down there with pure stoke and solid Sierra FA experience (especially winter routes) and knocked out a killer first effort. Given, they had a great weather window but anyone who knows them knows they also have the talent, drive, patience and the energy to get it done.
Gimp

Trad climber
Grand Junction
Feb 4, 2013 - 09:45am PT
Bump for climbing news.

As an added note we did the Torres del Paine Circuit as a family over Christmas since my two kids are both graduating from High School this spring. Considering what has been going-on in Argentine Patagonia this season I was surprised how few climbers seem to be active in Torres del Paine Park considering the vast amount of rock present.

Was a great walk and would advise doing the entire Circuit if you go rather the just the W.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 4, 2013 - 11:32am PT
Wow, maybe someday Patagonia will just be another exotic crag you can go to. There's tons of unclimbed peaks still left in Pakistan, too, and walls up there, but it's just too serious and cold.
crøtch

climber
Feb 8, 2013 - 02:01pm PT

Lot's of stoke on Alpinist.com

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13w/newswire-patagonia-roundup-2013
Fish Finder

Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
Feb 8, 2013 - 03:43pm PT


Beth,

You forgot one very important factor that makes Myles and Amy so great.


They have each other!!!
Karla

climber
Colorado
Feb 8, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
Mission aka Thom Engelbach just arrived yesterday for a month long adventure with our friends, Liz Donley(her 1st trip!) and Cory Fleagle (his 2nd). He said it was super windy, but is looking to hike in tomorrow to Guillamette/Mermoz for some shake-down cruise routes.

Have fun!
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