Big Rocks!

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 302 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 01:08am PT
Another widescreen view of the dome in the previous photo. The dome on the far right is the K2 of Capitol Reef domeaineering adventures. I did it with John Wason and Ho Man! Summitting the thing without placing bolts was sporty. 5.10 choss with a super mank belay. Nothing for a rap anchor on top, even by Canyonlands standards, so the first one down gets to downclimb the pitch with a TR, the last one down gets to downclimb the pitch with a belay from below by his shuddering partner, but looking at a massive whipper. We found a small pile of children's bones on top. Is it just me, or does this look like a bunch of boobs?

Captain...or Skully

climber
Jan 26, 2013 - 01:22am PT
Right on...
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 01:43am PT
But, lest we give Mungeclimber a coronary with these shimmering images of 5-Star Choss, let's get back to those dew-dappled fresh boulders at Big Rocks, where glitter falls from a twinkling sky, sparkle ponies nuzzle and coo, rainbows radiate on the diamond horizon, unicorns roam free, and lone American Legends with Clint Eastwood resolve and Bonattish committment make whoopie with the "GUD" stuff, m'kay? After all, we're gonna die! So we may as well git sum while the gittin's good.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jan 26, 2013 - 03:33am PT
Mungeknocketty knock knocking scare ball domeing.


*like*
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 26, 2013 - 03:43am PT
Wow! This thread is amazing, thanks BVB for so many killer shots & stories. True gold right here. The place looks as good as it gets.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 03:51am PT
Here's another, better view of Walker Peak. We gotta go do this someday Mungie. U wood lyke I think. Seriously, once in a while I would disappear from the office from time to time for a quick solo lap. It has a summit register and everything! Then you can mosey 20 miles up the road to BIG ROCKS! Not a single stop light or stop sign along the way to slow you down. Sub-20 minute drive if you're ballin'.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 04:08am PT
This one was a real thriller. The Matterhorn of Capitol Reef. We actually placed a single bolt -- unheard of. Five star summit. Doubt it's seen a repeat. I'd climb these things as a palate cleanser between week-long bouldering binges.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 04:39am PT
Of course, if you absolutely MUST have splitters, here's Steph Davis on a little ditty I put up in 1994. It's (gasp!) 25 minutes from Torrey, with a ten minute approach. Pretty sure the anchor bolts must still be good.

Credit: bvb

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
I understand there is some "serious business" afoot in our little supertopo alpine peyton place. I can't imagine anything more "serious" than waking up in Wayne County. There are 5,000 unclimbed five-star probems, and those are just the ones you know about. Seriously, you're f*#ked.



weezy

climber
Jan 26, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
wayne dang sweet poontang. good shite, bvb. the matterhorn and walker peak are definitely on my list for the (early) summer. since we're embedding pics of the "unicorn of utah crags" in this Big Rocks thread...

get your brick fix..


something's burning...


it's all there...



better shaddup before i get lynched!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
I didn't get up tp the main crag often weezy but when I did, we always hucked a quick lap on this. Too f*#king good. Worthy of Arch Rock.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
More often it was this:

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
Meanwhile, back at Big Rocks: The Paleoman Roof. 9' of ass-dragging horizontal V5 goodness. Don't leave Wayne County without it!

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
Once in a blue moon I could drag a posse up to the Henrys, but between the flat tires and punctured oilpans they were usually one-timers. On this trip we racked up two flat tires, one broken axle, and two SOS trips into Hanksville. Then we had to talk a renegade flatbed truck driver into coming all the way up to the Coyote Benches to rescue a rig and take it to Green River. Standard-issue Horn Epic.

Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jan 26, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
Damn, that climbing looks fantastic!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
It is, Gal! Pocket pullin' paradise. But then again, there is still Big Rocks...a father will always have a soft spot for the place he taught his son to climb. #1 son Kyle, straight pimpin' Wayne County style at 3 years old. Greg Epperson photo.

J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
Jan 26, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
Keep this thread at the top, baby.

Keep it rolling BVB.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
The wild thing is that if you were to stick a pin on the map in Torrey, Utah, then draw a 50 mile radius around it, all this would be in that circle. Plus way, way, way more. Mt. Biking, Fly Fishing, Techinial Slot canyons, unreal hiking, Kayaking, God the list goes on. I should shut up...
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Jan 26, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
All-time thread right here.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Jan 26, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
BVB, sorry to carpet bomb your thread with images, but I share your enthusiasm for the region. All of these are a hop, skip, jump from Torrey as well:

200 ft rope stretching pitch, mostly hands:


Choices choices choices:


Captionless from here:











































One of the best corners of the western states. Even if it had zero climbing that'd be true.
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