bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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Not a concern, BIOTCH. The urban support center for these areas is the thriving metropolis of Torrey, Utah, population 200. Torrey is a 175 mile round trip to the nearest grocery store, and the nearest Hospital with a Level I Trauma center is a 250 mile lifeflight ride to SLC, 500 miles when you consider it's a round-trip flight. In retrospect, the stuff I was doing -- alone, kinda hard and highball, landings sometimes not so good, no spotters, way out on 4X4 roads, years before cell service arrived in Wayne County with Jocelyn having at best a vague idea of where I might be -- well, it was sporty. I would not trade those years for anything. The place is so far from anything it will never have a scene. the Happies it ain't. Funny story: it was late Spring 1996. I'd been climbing at the Horn for maybe three years pretty regular without ever seeing another human. I come back into camp and there are two guys standing there. I'm in total shock. I walk up and very abruptly ask "WHO ARE YOU GUYS?!" No hey, howareya, whatcha doing, nothing. It was a pure Checkpoint Charlie "PAPERS PLEASE!" moment. As the words are ejaculating out my mouth I realize it's Woodward, who I had not seen in a bit. I go "Oh, sorry Jonny, it's just I've been climbing here for three years and have never, ever seen anybody else. Ever." Jonny can see I'm in shock, and knows exactly how to minister to my needs: he pulls a bottle of Lagavulin 16 out of his rig and offers me a fat one. We spend the evening gossiping around the fire while he ensures my glass of Lagavulin never gets too short. Woodward is a total class act. It was a great weekend.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 24, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
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Yeah Larry, that last pic is probably kinda how I came across.
And now, Welcome to Torrey. Seriously, this is it. That line of trees on the left is the town's very charming "main drag." We brought a killer house here with a one acre Orchard for $80,000. I'd move back.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Jan 25, 2013 - 03:01am PT
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A quiet ,private, humble ,introverted man.I´ve never seen a better description of myself.See you there this summer.Hows the hitchiking?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 08:02am PT
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Fully dripping with self-irony.
Here's a nice warm towel Cilley Dickens...LOL
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jan 25, 2013 - 08:40am PT
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Bvb,
I have to say Torrey, Utah, looks awesome. Very fine Boulders and full on beautiful crags to climb. Great find.
Not to forget to mention, it looks like great paragliding off the mesas and flying thermal and ridge lift along the aprons. Looks like plenty of large cattle fields for LZs to land softly in. Kind of reminiscent of Torrey Pines, San Diego, for flying but just way inland and no waves. I bet in the right conditions a free-flight pilot can get really high there and go really far.
I too like finding great places where I can really do all my favorite outdoor adventure activities and no crowds. Looks really nice.
Shalom.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 09:01am PT
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Morning Wayne County Big Rocks Bump. Let's streeeeetch for that first hold, er, I mean cup of coffee....
Four great problems on this little nugget, V4 - V7. Collect 'em all!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 09:10am PT
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Fully dripping with self-irony.
When it comes to subtle self-depriciation, understated elegance, effortless finishing school manners, inconspicuous class, jaw-dropping climbing technique, exquisite taste in boulders, proper grooming, and raw animal magnetism with the fairer sex, you'll find no two finer exemplars then the American Legend and his early mentor, the Master Cylinder.
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Tarzan
Trad climber
Vegas
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Jan 25, 2013 - 11:33am PT
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Torry is fab. Can you spray any for Calf Creek or Long Canyon. I work summers in that area and it looks golden
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
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No climbing at Calf Creek. Decent swimming holes but often way too crowded for my tastes -- Hell, I went there once and there were FOUR OTHER PEOPLE. F*#k that sh#t.
Long Canyon is a well- developed crack climbing area. Just drive slow, scope the splitters, and look for anchors. Altough Capitol Reef is just as deserted, has better crack climbing (imho) and has a brand-new spankin' guide with all the new stuff (1999 -2012) included.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jan 25, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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Got any graphic pics from The Flesh Pits area out at Big Rocks? Great low budget horror film bouldering...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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Oh yeah, but they're all on my HD back in Flagstaff! Of course, the dog owners would clamor for the deactivation of my acount...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
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The air is just feeling too damn thick at 7,000 feet, so let's return to the high-altitude pleasuring grounds of Wayne County's greatest gift to bouldering, The Horn, shall we? But whats this?! The American Legend is FALLING?! Say it ain't so, Joe. Tangerine Dreams, Henry Mountains.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
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Not to worry. Like Buhl on Nanga Parbat, our hero rallies and emerges from the shadows of the spectacular Center Route on The Triangle...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
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...and then moves along over for some funluvin' pocket pullin' facepimpin' in the sun. Boom!
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Jan 25, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
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Hey bvb
If I ever get a chance to come up there,
would you have a place for me to stay?
Is it all bouldering or are there roped climbs?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
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This place is in South-Central Utah, Cozmix, in and around Torrey, Utah, Capitol Reef National Park, and the Henry Mountains. I lived and was active there from 1993 to 2002. I'm in Flagstaff now, but now that I'm retired I'm thinking it'd be really fun to rent a house in Torrey some summer and knock around the old haunts. The hiking, Sandstone Dome mountaineering, and techinical slot canyons are to die for as well. Tons of roped climbing at all grades.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
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Like this thing right here, Cosmic. Walker Peak. Extraordinarily good outing. About 700' of climbing from the base, and the trailhead is literally 15 minutes from downtown Torrey. The views from the top take in the whole of the Colorado Plateau. Lots of technical "scambling" with some easy 5th Class here and there. About 5 hours from car to car at a leisurely pace. My record is 67 minutes. I used to run up this thing during my lunch hour, or during routine NPS "patrols" to, uh, you know, ensure the resources were all intact n' sh#t. Capitol Reef has dozens of remote "dome-aneering" summits like this one.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
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This thing is super fun. Same trailhead, 15 minutes from Torrey. An honest 15 minutes, not some bullshit bait-and-switch 15 minutes. 9 miles on the odometer. This is just the summit cap. There's a bit of exciting 5.7 up there. Stupendous location with 360 degree views of the most remote and least-visited wilderness on the Colorado Plateau. Makes the Maze look like Times Square on New Year's Eve.
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