guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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BVB... thx for the info. Never to early to start planning for the summer.
Those rocks look sort of like Suicide... is that stone like the stuff in the bouldering pics... you know, featured? Solid?
And yea, I know about killer good rocks that just take a bit of effort to get to. Like a 1 hour up hill hike....
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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If you want a Utah crag to EXPLODE... just tell everyone it is secret.
Yeah. The traffic at Big Rocks has been off the hook since the Russo Guide in what, 1999? And Bjornstad's Capitol Reef guide in '97...HO MAN! Indian Creek hoards did a mass migration like "whoa!" I tell ya, one false move and Wayne County is gonna be seeing, like 50 climbers a year. Paging the Access Fund!
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Juicer
Trad climber
SLC
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I think we can all agree that the Wayne County region is totally stacked.
So what's the deal BVB are you going to make the jump back there? Can we crash there and help re-supply your remote outpost? Seems like you're building up to something here.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
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I think we can all agree that the Wayne County region is totally stacked.
So what's the deal BVB are you going to make the jump back there? Can we crash there and help re-supply your remote outpost? Seems like you're building up to something here.te Here
Actually, yes, JK. I'm seriuously considering getting a place there. I have Kathy Bagley on the lookout. You can get gorgeous 1930's stone cottages for ~80K. And it was always my favorite place to live. Kyle is 20 now and talks about wanting to go back all the time. So do I, if this thread has not made that obvious! Crib in Flag, Crib in Torrey, wtf I'm retired, why not? Of course itinerant cragaddicts will always be welcome to drink n' doss. Back in the day Casa Van Bubba was Rancho Gordon East.
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Juicer
Trad climber
SLC
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Well either way it would be great to see you guys down there. It's almost Black Pudding Mesa / Hog's Back season.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 07:09am PT
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Yeah, Jonny owes me a death runout down there. DOHT! Although Darrel's description of evil greasy dimes runouts off buried peckers for pro sounds a bit to "Beau Geste" for me. I'm all old n' creaky n' stuff.
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weezy
climber
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is this the wall where jonny's routes are?
went down there looking for boulders that were recommended to me but it was too hot that day. i was specifically warned about staying away from the routes on the wall unless i was ready for some gnar. BD used to have all the employees' favorite climbs on their website and i remember JW writing about a route on BPM as "a tasty morsel most people couldn't stomach." hah.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 09:17am PT
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Because info on the Mount Pennel crags is so readily available to the truly interested, and I located them with no assitance or beta from anyone, I have no compunction about discussing them. But I only climbed at B^$@* T&^%$ once, was an invitee, and so cannot make any comments without violating my somewhat fluid and flexible code of personal ethics. I will, however, remark that if you never go there it will dramatically improve your life expectancy. I imagine that if you know about someplace like Dark Canyon, you'll have no problem arranging a proper tour of the Mount Hillers stuff. You should ask around about Bull Mountain. I've heard good stuff.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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JW recommended 1 route there.
Ed: "Is it a typical Woodward route? I'm not sure I have that in me after a 5 hour drive."
JW: "Nah, it is totally safe."
Ed: "I've heard that before!"
JW: "Nah, I wouldn't do that to you."
Thank god it was Ed's lead because I only took 3 pairs of undies that day.
I've got the month of April to be poking around Ibex, Joe's, Uintas, LCC... any other new top secret spots?
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weezy
climber
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and so cannot make any comments without violating my somewhat fluid and flexible code of personal ethics
werd. i've been sworn to secrecy before, but only in AZ.
don't ever take sides with anyone against the Family again. Ever.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 10:03am PT
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any other new top secret spots?
I'll trade you the Aquarius Plateau boulders for the Big Rocks video. Deal?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Not sure why it ain't on the webz no more. Like any masterpiece, you should have copied it while you had the chance!
No word from my folks in Davis. Maybe Sun...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
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The youtube link shows it is a private video/password protected. maybe you just need to log on to YuTube and change the setting?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
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Those rocks look sort of like Suicide... is that stone like the stuff in the bouldering pics... you know, featured? Solid?
Nothing much like suicide, really. The stuff at Big Rocks and the Hankries is generally overhanging, pockets of all kinds from hideous tendon-snapping monos to bottomless sinker letterbox slots. It's not granite by any means; too many limestone-type pockets but it looks and feels like granite. Many climbs are 99% pockets with an edge here and there. I've seen no other rock like it on Earth. But there are some GREAT slab climbs that remind me a lot of Sherman Acres (think Sketchpad only better (sorry John!), and other Bishop stuff like those overrun Happies. Boom it's the bomb! The Capitol Reef bouldering is mutant, but good quality super fun and if you like Canyonlands scenery the setting can't be beat. I was hooked on it. The Wingate splitters range from full-on Indian Creek clones to scary sandy excercises in character building. The Navajo Dome summits are the ultimate in semi-techinial adventure outings (check out the Walker Peak photo and you'll see what I mean), and the mud towers are standard Fischer Towers-type fare. And all of this stuff is one CD or a few Mp3's driving time from Torrey! It's decided, I'm gonna buy a beater old 2nd home and live there from time to time. Absolutely most bitchin' place I've lived in the lower 48, but this may be a matter of taste. I *heart* the remote. Oh, and there are some frozen waterfalls that form up on the North side of Boulder mountain. A good google search will reveal much.
Bit steeper than a "slab", but less than vert and 100% pockets!
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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I don't see it anywhere in my youtube vids. Got a link?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Thanks for the info ... bvb
I think the formation, from a distance.. looks like a granite formation.
But the stone is full of holes!!
That sounds nice, n fun.
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MMCC
climber
New Zealand
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Too good to leave the front page. More photos please!
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