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bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
OK, now this thing was Sporty! There is no easy way up. You'll want a standard desert rack, with an emphasis on Wyde. Rapping off the thing is almost as scary as climbing up it. Makes the Pinns feel like diamond-hard perfection, God's Own Stone. No sign of any previous ascents. Yur Gunna Dye!!

Juicer

Trad climber
SLC
Jan 31, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
Landforms of Utah in Proportional Relief - M.K. Ridd 1960
Landforms of Utah in Proportional Relief - M.K. Ridd 1960
Credit: Juicer

Here's a nice perspective on Wayne County for ya Bob. Was it Garfield that tried to pave the Burr Trail through the park?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
NICE MAP! I collect that stuff. Got a few choice framed maps of old, old, Colorado Plateau cartography.

Yep. I was the point guy on that Burr Trail debacle. Had to testify in court twice, fly back to DC a few times to brief the Directorate, the works. Once I briefed the Deputy Director fully drunk and swimming on Xanax. Good times, I crushed! Eventually the 9th Circuit in San Francisco ruled in the NPS's favor and that was that for RS2477 claims in National Parks. 1996 - 1998 were stressful years. Thank God for all that nearby boulderin' and craggin' to blow off steam...

One of my favorite quotes: So eloquent!

http://www.deseretnews.com/article/478102/WORK-ON-BURR-TRAIL-UNDER-PROBE.html?pg=all
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
Back in 2003, the Bulldog Fire ravaged the Horn. I just realized we're coming up on the 10 year aniversery. Although much remains, much -- very, very much -- was lost.

This killer face, peppered with sweet pocket problems (Bill Hatcher photo):



Became this:



For God's sake let's be careful with fire! asdf.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 1, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
...whether we're talking about a bighorn sheep or a big dirt hillside.


Nice! I love big dirt hillsides.

I'm headed to Utar this spring. It has been 12 years since I've been Horny. I took my 2WD Nissan PU up there, not sure if my new truck will make it, but it should.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
Good luck with that Wes!

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 01:02am PT
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 02:46am PT
Here's another problem I found on my very first day in the Hankries, Saturday, June 19, 1993. When we caught our first glimpse of the Horn from the south shoulder of Mount Ellen I was sure that this whole thing was a wild hallucination. We'd been at Capitol Reef for maybe 2 days, straight outta Boston and totally shell-shocked by this incredible new environment, when I was talking with the park biologist, Sandy Borthwick. And as we have all experienced when chatting with non-climbers, upon learning we were climbers she says "oh, you should drive to the Henrys and see the Horn, there's a bunch of big rocks up there, I think there might be rock climbing." Yeah, right. At least she had the good taste to refrain asking if I'd climbed Everest. As we're having this discussion I'm literally looking across the street at a 300' Wingate wall covered with splitters and what she knows about climbing she undoubtably learned from watching Spencer Tracy in "The Mountain." So I really didn't pay much attention to her suggestion.

In any event, a few days later we decide to take our brand-new 4Runner (purchased the week before) up to the Henrys to hike up Mount Ellen with 6-month-old Kyle in tow. That wound up being a fast and casual hike, so with most of the day still left to kill we consult the 7.5 quad and Pennell looked close enough for a quick recon -- plus those stacked-up contour lines looked mighty, mighty suspicious -- so we decide to drop back down and swing over to scope this "Horn" thing. Holy Mother of God. As we rounded the shoulder, there was the west side of the Horn. Boulders. Huge, huge boulders. Thousands of them. Crags, too. It looked incredible. But what the f*#k kind of rock was that?! Then we drove around to the East side of the formation and I just about f*#king died. We had shoes and chalkbags, that was it. We had no idea about any trails, but it was clear from all the lichen wear on Wedding Buttress's 11c crack that the place was seeing traffic. We just bushwhacked straight up to the first bench and started running around like kids in a candy store. Later that day we found a prehistoric sleeve-and-nail star bolt with a hanger of unknown provenance on top of a 5.7 boulder crack. Boy Scout Top-Rope Route? Fred Becky's "Kilroy Was Here" calling card? Who knows? The place was way, way mysto. I'd never seen or climbed on rock that was anything like this -- it was like bullet-hard, heavily pocketed granite drenched in thick golden hues, set in an old-growth Ponderosa pine forest designed by a master Japanese gardener. Totally unreal. My first exposure to a laccolithic mountain range on the Colorado Plateau. Instant believer. I drank all the Kool-Aid on the spot.

This was my favorite problem from that glorious day:

Wind 'er up...



Big move!





Spent pretty much every spare moment up there for the whole summer and fall of '93. The bouldering potential appeared to have been pretty much ignored. Many crucial pockets were loaded with lichen and micro-biospheres, and the first time I walked up to the boulderfield on the west side there were lithic scatters and projectile points laying around and lichen crisps shellacked on crucial holds. I think someone told me The Perfect Child was put up around this time? The SLC crew and the Moab contingent were on to the Horn for sure, and I'd bet money that Steve Hong bagged that obvious 5.11 front-and-center splitter, but it was years before I bumped into other climbers up there, usually from Moab or Salt Lake. I had the luxury of getting off work early during the week, bombing up there and getting 2 or 3 hours in, and being home by dark. It was a good time to be alive. The Wingate splitters 10 minutes from our living room, Big Rocks 20 minutes away...Gravy, baby. All f*#king Gravy.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 2, 2013 - 03:08am PT
It was a good time to be alive.
Nice bvb.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 03:39am PT
Yeah Jefe, I read somewhere that Supertopo is a rock-climbing forum! Dayum, coulda knocked me over with a feather! DRL tour onena these days?

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 03:55am PT
Torrey, aye we hardly knew ye.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 04:31am PT
As has been mentioned, vehicular hiccups at Wayne County backcountry crags can, depending on circumstances, rapidly escalate into, well, you know, Epics. Middle-class gold-plated epics to be sure, but they sure can be a spendy distraction at times. For example, consider Exhibit A here: much to my amazement, this field repair (rather bold and ingenious if you ask me) -- reattaching a busted axle mount with strapping tape -- held up for a few miles.



Alas, the effort, despite the Apollo 13 level of creativity, ingenuity and grace under pressure applied to the problem -- was ultimately doomed to failure. So off to Hanksville we go. This totally renegade stand-up hippie biker 'Nam Vet rescue driver and I drank beer all the way from Hanksville to the Coyote Benches, swapping Wayne County war stories and discussing boobs. He was a really cool guy, as are most people from Hanksville. Hanksville is the "town" -- if you can call it that -- where all the truly colorful "downcounty" jack-mormans seem to wind up. This guy saved me $1500 bucks by falsifying his report to Triple AAA, claiming he picked us up on the paved road to Bullfrog marina.



After managing that minor glitch in our weekend with all the skill and panache of t*r on a boob rampage, we got back down to business. I was a bit stressed by all the auto drama -- I don't cope to well with that kind of stuff -- but a quick circuit of easy skankin' on my favorite moderates, along with a few stiff drams of the good stuff and a fistful of xanax, put my whole world right back in perspective. Angels enveloped me within the soft embrace of their celestial feathers as I rode back to camp on a Unicorn that exhaled perfume and trailed a sparkling cloud of glitter in a thousand rainbow hues.





And then the other car took a big old sh#t on us. More scotch, more xanax, no stress, no problem. Just a little duct tape and bailing wire and we're back in business! "Honey, do you think that this Extra-Virgin Olive Oil will work as differential oil?"



Hanna, meanwhile, is starting to question the wisdom of allowing us to parent her. To this day, I assure her that these will someday be cherished memories and hysterically funny storytelling material. When I try to serve up this obviously deranged spin, she rolls her eyes, looks the other way, and cranks the Justin Bieber tune on her iPod up to 11. Nice try, Dad.



bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 05:42am PT
weezy

climber
Feb 2, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
Porphyritic diorite bump. quick cooling makes buttery pockets.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
Big Rocks Bump for Krimbing Kontent! The Gym Boulder, in a little area called The Cove. South-facing, sunny, and windless on even the most bitter January days. Perfect spot to kill a couple of spare hours. The Good Stuff. Oh, to be young again...

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 2, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
So you just climb up the sides of them boulders over and over again?
What's that all about.
weezy

climber
Feb 2, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
hell Tarbuster get a load of this...


they always try to climb up the hardest side.. it's the damndest thing

they could just climb up the backside all easy-like but they keep trying to get up the steepest sides

they're strong in the fingers but not so much in the head..
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 2, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
...and I guess those little mats are for makin' more babies?
weezy

climber
Feb 2, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
...and I guess those little mats are for makin' more babies?

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
Thank God somebody else posted to this thread. I was about to give up on it. Figured nobody was reading it.
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