Dinosaur Rock... downstream rocks?

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Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
Dooods,, can we calm down a bit!??

Heh. I'm mostly jus' trollin' easy waters. No bite in this rat, I'm afraid. You're taking this place way too seriously Mr. Rat. I bet if you cut down the melodrama you'd find this place much more livable. Or embrace it fully without apology. Whatever works, man, it's just words on a screen.

hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
Words on a screen. Like words on paper. You know, you've all got good points and I recognize that. But as I've been told here before, I need a thick skin to hang out... so... here it is. If I really didn't give a s(*t I would have stayed gone and just gone ahead and started nailing. Big walls are long and far away for me, but there are places I want to go that it might be nice to have a few pins along just in case. Also, should the chance come along to go do a big wall, it would be nice to have some kind of clue what's going down so I don't end up like the dudes trying to rap the Captain.

In the mean time, we've got a five month old kid now which severely limits any chance of the S.O. going climbing with me. She also has no interest whatsoever in big walls, and I mean NONE; and my other usual partner live in Sacramento, which means he's not around to climb much either. Neither of them lead, period. So my options are limited.

That leaves me to experiment and practice:
a: at the gym. whoopie.
b: solo. preferably in an area that someone will notice some unconscious dude hanging upside down.

Let the flaming continue...
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
Hey hillrat,

depending on exactly what you are trying to learn, you might consider:

1. trying to clean aid up the existing routes (say, the ones that Ron Anderson mentioned). It's fun to set up a self-belay system and work out the kinks. A good idea to try this on easier ground without the extra hassle of hammers, iron, great fear, etc. Kind get the system worked out; place, step up, clip rope, search, place, transfer, step up.

2. For strictly nailing practice, just pick an inobvious line, something that seems out of the way, short, steep. Superficially scabby/flakey/licheny rock, that would be unappealing to any one free climbing, is perfect. Look for thin seams that are too small for Aliens and TCUs, try out the Beaks, Peckers, Tomahawks, Blades, heads.

3. If you're looking for actual, worthy, new aid/mixed routes, look for the most exposed, steep, ridiculous overhangs to nail, cos nothing else is worth all that trouble. Aiding is a lot of work. Binoculars can help locate the tiny seams.

I've barely placed an angle in years because modern clean gear is superior (and faster) for just about any possible angle-piton placement.

Have at it! And have fun!

ps, I hear you on the lack of climbing content here. I'm halfway wondering if it's worth bothering contributing any more climbing stuff, it gets buried so fast, and what's in its place is such a ceaseless tide of "me" "me" drivel. On the non-climbing threads, you have to be fast, snarky and aggressive if you want anyone to respond. The personal attacks and snarky attitude start creeping into the climbing threads.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
It sounds like you've got the info you need. From my understanding though, nailing is pretty controversial even within the aid set. I recognize you aren't going after area classics (although Ron may feel differently about those particular routes), it just is what it is.

Good luck, man. I'd rather read TRs from wherever you may climb than not.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
Thanks guys, I intend to do just that if possible. All the B.S. was big in the reasons I left. The climbing content is why I'm still around. Figure if I can wade through the rest and try to keep my personal opinions to a minimum, the place has some merit. If I ever actually DO get out to where I want to go I'll be sure to take lots of pictures and post them up here.

Oh, and a little bit of snark seems to get attention on the climbing threads too.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
Well, there's some stuff out north of Elko that looks a lot like the Pig Rock and Iron Butte areas when I go back out there. There are also some areas I'd like to visit in the Humboldt Range, both limestone and I think some granite. Then again, I've seen some rock out by Gerlach that could be interesting. In particular is a coarse-grained limestone/schist area off highway 20 where I saw someone set up with a large sluice. Down canyon from that it gets very steep and I doubt anyone has been there with a pan for a very long time, if ever. Yeah, that one has got me flamed before too.

Oh but you want a particular route? No... not yet. It's not someones favorite 5.7-5.9 I'm looking to nail up. I'm looking for practice in learning different techniques that I've not used. It's controversial? You mean like bolting sport routes where you actually drill a hole in the rock and place a permanent anchor controversial? No kiddin...?

It's all new to me within the last year and a half. I got six months of climbing with the S.O., then pregnant and no more climbing with her. Had to drag in a reluctant friend from Sacto.

I appreciate the safety and the fun of it, seriously. But maybe if I'm looking to learn this on established routes I should go after the aid route at River Rock next. 'Course, A3 is just a tad over my head. Just thought it was a good place to check before I really did go out and nail up some known/established free route. The idea is to get some experience placing and cleaning. I'd rather get flamed here than for having to call in SAR because I got stuck.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
It's controversial? You mean like bolting sport routes where you actually drill a hole in the rock and place a permanent anchor controversial? No kiddin...?

Well, with decent sport bolting you shouldn't change the features you are climbing, while, with nailing, you are directly changing the feature you climb. 'Course, bolting murders the impossible and all, they say. Reading Supertopo may give you an inaccurate vision of sport climbing as controversial.

Personally, I am down with all the drama that comes with these decisions because rock is a finite resource, and, once touched, it is pretty much permanently altered as far as we humans are concerned.

You've got to read the work of Robbins and others, the original hammer guys. They largely decided to lay down the hammers. Food for thought, that's all.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
I can see that "altering the features you climb" on things that are, say... fingers and more. What about those tiny little seams that nobody can hold onto? Is it that now we view everything as potentially free and therefore off-limits to pins? If that's the case, there should be no routes with things like bolt ladders, sections that require nailing of any sort, etc. No route should be established as such. Would you agree? Or is it acceptable on established aid routes and new routes put up on, say, an otherwise blank face?

Climbing itself seems controversial in some places, including whether or not to even use chalk, or what color chalk. No metal gear allowed at all in some places, and thus you get the monkey's fist kind of pro. So what level of controversy is acceptable?

Robbins work, et. all, is not in my library as yet. Considering where I like going, what kind of things I like doing, and my lifestyle overall, I'd say I'm already a thoroughly controversial character in today's modern society anyway. I like climbing, hunting, fishing, boobs, a little beer, 4x4ing, prospecting, and presentations by the Sierra Club (the one on bats here a couple years ago was fascinating), as well as conservation. To a point. All in moderation of course. Some accept none of it. Others want chaos and anarchy. Nobody seems to much hang out in the middle ground.
meh. Find yer own line, I guess.
http://vimeo.com/channels/staffpicks/57370112
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
A4? Not for me, thank you.
The other routes you posted look pretty good. If I aid them, it's going to be clean. Though I'll more likely go just try to free them. Work on my anchoring and solo techniques and all.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Here are a couple of places I'm interested in. I posted some of these here before, but pulled those posts. Looking upstream in the canyon shots, about 250 ft to the bottom here on the upper end of it. The lower end just gets steeper and deeper. I don't think you could descend without rope.
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Off 80
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Elko- these suck in terms of rock pictures, but it's what i've got. There's lots of stuff out there that looks like this. Most very much choss, but some solid stuff. At least as "goog" as pig rock.
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moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
So, that's how the climbing thread looks like.

I think I'm gonna stay with politics and guns ;)

Edit: Sorry, I rushed with my judgement. The discussion is interesting. My bad.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
Wasn't someone trying to get access to a place down in Six Mile Canyon? Never saw anything else on that. I would imagine most places up toward V.C. are chossy enough nobody would care to try them.
I see there are options here, and that's good. Looking for a place close to home for this.
Speaking of Washoe Boulders, have I got this right? It's a screen shot of google earth, looking north. You can see the fields where the deer hang out in south Washoe Valley on the top left. Top right, there's a ridge line full of short chossy basalt stuff where I could probably get lots of practice when the snow melts. It's not part of Washoe Boulders is it?
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hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
Well, it was such a nice day I thought I'd run over to Dino Rock and try PA Corner, looking for the LA from another thread. Got there just early enough for there to be sunshine; but screwed around just a little too long and the sunshine turned to shade. Built an anchor, sorted gear, got dressed up, and started up.

After a whole whopping 12 feet or so (epic, right?) and placing two cams I failed. After screwing around so long my hands got cold. So damn cold they got numb and I couldn't so much as feel the rock, other than to curl my fingers and guess that I had a fair grip in the crack. At that point, I convinced myself it was a bad idea to try leading a 10a for my third run with the Silent Partner all alone in an icy canyon with numb hands while still recovering from the Norovirus three days ago, especially having only led up to 5.9 so far. Jeez what a puss.

Packed it in and went chukar hunting instead. No luck there either. Probably should have tried Sunny Delight at Carson Valley Sentinel instead.

Sure was a nice day for a hike though.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 26, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
Hillrat
If you become to frustrated by lack of an appropriate place to place your pins give me a holler.I have need for as many pins as you would care to sell. Just this day I sighted another nearby, not to chossy pile, that would yield many a fearsome 5.3d and there is nothing more reassuring than a solid pin (knifeblade lost arrow or small angle)before a runout.I'll pay top dollar.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
Thanks for the offer. I'll be keeping them though, there really are plenty of places in the back country that are appropriate as all get-out; but I was just looking close to home here.

If, on the other hand, you could use someone to climb with let me know. Though from the shining examples above you can probably guess my capability.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 26, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
Hillrat,
Hell yeah if your capable of 5.3(d) and are willing to bring the pins i have some projects in mind right off the Pyramid Hwy. with sunny exposure and out of snow zone. Helmet recommended.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 26, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
Now Ron, You know quite well that my 5.3 abilities dont encompass much beyond the likes of PA, if even that,even with the fearsome d rating. Anyway Hillrat i scoured the choss piles out 445 way and found two little walls with discontinuous crack systems, fairly solid rock (though some trundling by the second would be recommended), that would yield classic climbs up to about 150'. Ron if your feeling up to it come along, it will be fun, but of course as usual success is not guaranteed. Hillrat what days can you climb. My schedule is currently wide open.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 01:23am PT
I'm stuck with a m-f kind of job, so weekends are best for me. I like all that area out on pyramid, actually own some acres out of Palomino Valley, though any rock up that way is no more than over-stacked piles of gravel. There definitely looks to be some quality stuff out there, especially if you're willing to hike and/or 4x4 a bit.

Took my friend from Sacto to Pig Rock out there for his first climb. I think he had to change shorts when we taught him to rap off LSoH. 'course, being a bunch of noobs we didn't stand a chance at anything on that wall.

Can't make any promises, but I'll be happy to give it a shot.
Meanwhile... couple more pictures

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rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 27, 2013 - 01:55am PT
Palomino-i live out there. The wall is actually visible from 445 but the access is 4x4 off the Pig Rock approach road. I don't know what your plans are for tomorrow but if you want i'd probably be up for a jaunt up there. We might even be able to get up one of easier lines. #475-0357 or 907-232-1874. P.s. not a pile of gravel rather closer to Iron Butte but with a bit more looser areas.
WTF

climber
Jan 27, 2013 - 04:19am PT
Jeebus for f*#k sake your sobriety is f*#king bitter.

WML your knowledge on hammering sh#t is like listening to a nun talk about f*#king stfu and move to Vegas.
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