Dinosaur Rock... downstream rocks?

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hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 22, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
Living in Carson City, Dinosaur Rock is one of the closest crags. I know it all goes clean; but has anyone messed around with anything downstream? Nothing in my guide book. Thinking of trying aid climbing on the downstream stuff, if nobody would mind.
Here's a couple pictures from last time there and some of the rock I'm talking about.
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Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jan 22, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
Looks like YACP! (Yet another choss pile)

Go get some.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 11:42am PT
Sweet. You're all more interested in personal attacks on the posters of the BOOBS thread, and guns. Guess I can nail up whatever I want. Thanks!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:53am PT
Dude, you're a little sensitive. If you had actually left ST, you wouldn't have to ask permission here to f*#k up the rock.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:55am PT
The lower pic is "the black wall" I put up a 5.6/7 on it in the mid 70s.

The next pic up also has a 5.8/9 route up the obvious crack/corner in the middle. In addition, there are small sattelite crags above those that have also been done. There are more routes just upstream from DIno - about 1/4 mile as well. One OBVIOUS one is a flat wall with a ziggy zaggy looking WYDE crack that was 5.11 that faces upstream....
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
That's what I'm looking for. I don't want to "f*$k up" a bunch of known routes. Problem is, they're not in the guide books. So if not, then it looks like open season. That's why I asked. Not training for a known route, trying to learn good pin placements for some canyoning and/or alpine stuff way out in the middle of Nevada and/or California. This area happens to be close to me and tall enough to get more experience than the 20ft choss pile above my house. Knowing now that there are established routes, I'll avoid it. Satisfied?

Sensitive? Yah, maybe. Then again, I didn't nuke the BOOBS thread, nor am I really offended that it's gone. It was just a matter of time on a climbing site visited by multiple nationalities and such varied sensitivities.

But hey, sure... I could leave and just nail up whatever the f*&k looks good to me, if that's what you really want. It's not like I'm out bolting a bunch of s&*t. Go look up all the debates over guns, boobs, bolts, etc. Check out the first page of the forum and tell me again how sensitive I am for not really being excited about wading through all the b.s. just to get a little climbing info...? I bet a s*&t ton of y'all would be real sensitive if I showed up at your local crag and started pounding away. Talk about sensitive!

Quite frankly, I don't blame people like Lolli for leaving and pulling their posts. Makes a helluva better statement than mine.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
Does it matter?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
Okay. I don't really care about the latest drama here either other than to point and laugh. I don't see what that has to do with nailing up other peoples' routes.

I don't see the use of nailing up routes with subpar military pitons in the first place, you'd probably be better off aspring to learn how to aid clean, it seems to work for Mark Hudon and others.

It's pretty easy to set up solo systems for that too, if you are having partner problems.

From my outsiders perspective, you seem to be fixated on a practice that just isn't the way the big boys are doing things anymore and it pisses people off to see rock destruction where it doesn't have to be. Jus' sayin'.

Maybe Ron or others know a rock more suitable to your needs and that wouldn't result in altering existing routes.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
Good God. The point is to not nail up other people's routes. But hey, maybe we can get some good debate of the entire ethics of nailing vs clean, eh? That could be fun.

By the way, when I started here I had a much better attitude. Now it's about half "I don't give a f*&k" directly due to the way some have responded to me on this site. FYI
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
Milsurp pins are cheap. I'm trying to learn placement with what I can afford.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
I'm sorry that ST beat down you down so severely to cause your loss in faith in humanity. There are as WML pointed out, Teddy Bears to relate to instead. Animal hoarding is comforting too, I hear.

We are trying to instill the good sense that in an area rife with climbers that, yes, that obvious roadside crag you are looking at probably has been climbed. Sorry. You clearly aren't asking yourself if your antiquated ethics are worth it, so you'd probably be best quitting the site again and doing what you want without getting your feelings hurt again and invoking Lolli or whatever as some sort of argument.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
Do you even recognize your own attitude? I came with a simple question, got it answered, and you choose to flame me. Nice!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
Yeah, I have a total weiner dude attitude. Don't worry, I pinch myself when I write such atrocity.

Do you have free aid dialed yet though? Seriously, it seems a shame to hammer out some cracks when you are unlikely to ever get to the big show in the first place.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
Hey, can we shift the discussion to your thoughts on bolted sport routes that won't take any natural pro? Just how DO you feel about those?
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
Don't worry, I'll start more threads like this with pictures asking "hey, has anyone ever climbed this or can I nail it?" so that:

a: more discriminating climbers such as yourselves can flame me for using antiquated techniques and materials

b: someone might recognize the area and recommend elsewhere, though "a" seems a bit more likely
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
No, I mostly just have feelings about nailing up obvious routes that have already seen an FA.

Great, looking forward to your chosspile by elimation threads. Why not ask where you CAN do this? I'm not flaming on nailing, I just don't think you know what you're doing when you identify obvious roadside rocks as a suitable destination.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
BTW- Thanks Ron. Otherwise, I'd be out there running pins into something I shouldn't.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Yeah. That's true. I don't know what I'm doing. That's why I asked. I did buy the guidebook. Unfortunately, those routes Ron mentioned are not in it.

Why should I assume every rock that exists has ever been climbed? I've seen other people post asking bout FA's etc. I've seen the bolt war threads and how people react to anything iffy. It just seems easier to throw a picture up here with the simple question I asked at the beginning. And look what it turns into!

"yer using antique pins and methods? Oh my god! Yer an insolent assbag who can't understand that everything next to the road is a known route whether listed or not and yer gonna die while you f&*k up the rock!"
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
He's a post away from hammering your FAs folks! Watch out, the mad hammerer is loose! Post up your choss or risk mil surplus!

What a joke for some pretend big wall. I'd like to see your big Big Wall post with you nailing up the proud stuff in the next year, or you're just another poser with a teddy bear.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
My arm... it's riddled with blisters now.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
Cool thread!

Hillrat, you live in Carson City? Come check out Carson Valley Sentinel on the south facing side of the Clear Creek Hill. Climb Sunny Delight, I'd like your feedback.

No nailing, though. :)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
Dooods,, can we calm down a bit!??

I see both sides of this coin flip.. Ive BEEN both sides of this coin flip.. Clear creek does have some good nailing practice on the craglettes- its where i learned to pound pins. Certainly, most ALL of the obvious climable looking stuff has been done. Much of it wasnt put into the guide due to over all quality.. If i were to seek some practice nailing, the small craglettes would be an ok choice. As most maybe saw one or two ascents bitd via risky bouldering games we played. Clear creek can still service all needs..


I thank the OP for asking about those smaller crags, and i thank Jeebs and WML for being slightly protective as well.. This is ALL GOOD...Roger- muccous Ringworm over!;-D
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
Dooods,, can we calm down a bit!??

Heh. I'm mostly jus' trollin' easy waters. No bite in this rat, I'm afraid. You're taking this place way too seriously Mr. Rat. I bet if you cut down the melodrama you'd find this place much more livable. Or embrace it fully without apology. Whatever works, man, it's just words on a screen.

hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
Words on a screen. Like words on paper. You know, you've all got good points and I recognize that. But as I've been told here before, I need a thick skin to hang out... so... here it is. If I really didn't give a s(*t I would have stayed gone and just gone ahead and started nailing. Big walls are long and far away for me, but there are places I want to go that it might be nice to have a few pins along just in case. Also, should the chance come along to go do a big wall, it would be nice to have some kind of clue what's going down so I don't end up like the dudes trying to rap the Captain.

In the mean time, we've got a five month old kid now which severely limits any chance of the S.O. going climbing with me. She also has no interest whatsoever in big walls, and I mean NONE; and my other usual partner live in Sacramento, which means he's not around to climb much either. Neither of them lead, period. So my options are limited.

That leaves me to experiment and practice:
a: at the gym. whoopie.
b: solo. preferably in an area that someone will notice some unconscious dude hanging upside down.

Let the flaming continue...
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
Hey hillrat,

depending on exactly what you are trying to learn, you might consider:

1. trying to clean aid up the existing routes (say, the ones that Ron Anderson mentioned). It's fun to set up a self-belay system and work out the kinks. A good idea to try this on easier ground without the extra hassle of hammers, iron, great fear, etc. Kind get the system worked out; place, step up, clip rope, search, place, transfer, step up.

2. For strictly nailing practice, just pick an inobvious line, something that seems out of the way, short, steep. Superficially scabby/flakey/licheny rock, that would be unappealing to any one free climbing, is perfect. Look for thin seams that are too small for Aliens and TCUs, try out the Beaks, Peckers, Tomahawks, Blades, heads.

3. If you're looking for actual, worthy, new aid/mixed routes, look for the most exposed, steep, ridiculous overhangs to nail, cos nothing else is worth all that trouble. Aiding is a lot of work. Binoculars can help locate the tiny seams.

I've barely placed an angle in years because modern clean gear is superior (and faster) for just about any possible angle-piton placement.

Have at it! And have fun!

ps, I hear you on the lack of climbing content here. I'm halfway wondering if it's worth bothering contributing any more climbing stuff, it gets buried so fast, and what's in its place is such a ceaseless tide of "me" "me" drivel. On the non-climbing threads, you have to be fast, snarky and aggressive if you want anyone to respond. The personal attacks and snarky attitude start creeping into the climbing threads.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
It sounds like you've got the info you need. From my understanding though, nailing is pretty controversial even within the aid set. I recognize you aren't going after area classics (although Ron may feel differently about those particular routes), it just is what it is.

Good luck, man. I'd rather read TRs from wherever you may climb than not.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
Thanks guys, I intend to do just that if possible. All the B.S. was big in the reasons I left. The climbing content is why I'm still around. Figure if I can wade through the rest and try to keep my personal opinions to a minimum, the place has some merit. If I ever actually DO get out to where I want to go I'll be sure to take lots of pictures and post them up here.

Oh, and a little bit of snark seems to get attention on the climbing threads too.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
Well, there's some stuff out north of Elko that looks a lot like the Pig Rock and Iron Butte areas when I go back out there. There are also some areas I'd like to visit in the Humboldt Range, both limestone and I think some granite. Then again, I've seen some rock out by Gerlach that could be interesting. In particular is a coarse-grained limestone/schist area off highway 20 where I saw someone set up with a large sluice. Down canyon from that it gets very steep and I doubt anyone has been there with a pan for a very long time, if ever. Yeah, that one has got me flamed before too.

Oh but you want a particular route? No... not yet. It's not someones favorite 5.7-5.9 I'm looking to nail up. I'm looking for practice in learning different techniques that I've not used. It's controversial? You mean like bolting sport routes where you actually drill a hole in the rock and place a permanent anchor controversial? No kiddin...?

It's all new to me within the last year and a half. I got six months of climbing with the S.O., then pregnant and no more climbing with her. Had to drag in a reluctant friend from Sacto.

I appreciate the safety and the fun of it, seriously. But maybe if I'm looking to learn this on established routes I should go after the aid route at River Rock next. 'Course, A3 is just a tad over my head. Just thought it was a good place to check before I really did go out and nail up some known/established free route. The idea is to get some experience placing and cleaning. I'd rather get flamed here than for having to call in SAR because I got stuck.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson


Credit: Ron Anderson



Top-- the "black wall",, with a 5.6/7 route going up the obvious crack system



bottom : A 5.8/9 (variation start) going up the central corner system and a crack route to the left side..

marked in FAINT yellow lines..;-)

and a risky highball up and right...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
It's controversial? You mean like bolting sport routes where you actually drill a hole in the rock and place a permanent anchor controversial? No kiddin...?

Well, with decent sport bolting you shouldn't change the features you are climbing, while, with nailing, you are directly changing the feature you climb. 'Course, bolting murders the impossible and all, they say. Reading Supertopo may give you an inaccurate vision of sport climbing as controversial.

Personally, I am down with all the drama that comes with these decisions because rock is a finite resource, and, once touched, it is pretty much permanently altered as far as we humans are concerned.

You've got to read the work of Robbins and others, the original hammer guys. They largely decided to lay down the hammers. Food for thought, that's all.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
PERHAPS,, in these times,, the only real nailing is in seam cracks.. Beaks, nuts and other methods have been invented to navigate in a more clean approach to aid..The art of hooking has come a full circle at least! One CAN clean aid up the left seam for instance, and even use a bolt if things get a little sketchy,, much like Silvers route at River rock.. The very first ascent of the left seam was AID, but it was also the early seventies..
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
I can see that "altering the features you climb" on things that are, say... fingers and more. What about those tiny little seams that nobody can hold onto? Is it that now we view everything as potentially free and therefore off-limits to pins? If that's the case, there should be no routes with things like bolt ladders, sections that require nailing of any sort, etc. No route should be established as such. Would you agree? Or is it acceptable on established aid routes and new routes put up on, say, an otherwise blank face?

Climbing itself seems controversial in some places, including whether or not to even use chalk, or what color chalk. No metal gear allowed at all in some places, and thus you get the monkey's fist kind of pro. So what level of controversy is acceptable?

Robbins work, et. all, is not in my library as yet. Considering where I like going, what kind of things I like doing, and my lifestyle overall, I'd say I'm already a thoroughly controversial character in today's modern society anyway. I like climbing, hunting, fishing, boobs, a little beer, 4x4ing, prospecting, and presentations by the Sierra Club (the one on bats here a couple years ago was fascinating), as well as conservation. To a point. All in moderation of course. Some accept none of it. Others want chaos and anarchy. Nobody seems to much hang out in the middle ground.
meh. Find yer own line, I guess.
http://vimeo.com/channels/staffpicks/57370112
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
There is always this route,,a nail up seam-- checkin in at A-4 X...


surprised to still be clinging to the stone after the swing around ont...
surprised to still be clinging to the stone after the swing around onto the route form the offwidth..

rack: rurps -many, many small knife blades with many tie off loops, a hook and 1 --1/2 inch angle with tie off loop. cant bring enough TIE OFF loops
Credit: Ron Anderson


eagle lake cliff,, off the wall pinnacle- west face. Wont be done w/o a hammer...
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
A4? Not for me, thank you.
The other routes you posted look pretty good. If I aid them, it's going to be clean. Though I'll more likely go just try to free them. Work on my anchoring and solo techniques and all.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
dont feel bad,, NO ONE in their "right mind" would attempt such a foolish route...(exception being that baked outta his mind dood in the pic..) I totally blame it all on Warren "Batso" Harding...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
There is also two granite plugs (smallish) up near the "washoe" boulders- either side of the road that have zero "real" routes.. Bash away..;-)

Up towards Virginia City there is also some minor crags that are of dubious quality , perfect for such training. And,,, Shakespear Rock,, at Glenbrook holds some very technical aid training- i put up a rather spectacular aid route on it BITD.. Most of the North face is wide open for such adventure as the natural pro on much of it is nearly non existent.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Here are a couple of places I'm interested in. I posted some of these here before, but pulled those posts. Looking upstream in the canyon shots, about 250 ft to the bottom here on the upper end of it. The lower end just gets steeper and deeper. I don't think you could descend without rope.
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Off 80
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Elko- these suck in terms of rock pictures, but it's what i've got. There's lots of stuff out there that looks like this. Most very much choss, but some solid stuff. At least as "goog" as pig rock.
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moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
So, that's how the climbing thread looks like.

I think I'm gonna stay with politics and guns ;)

Edit: Sorry, I rushed with my judgement. The discussion is interesting. My bad.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
Wasn't someone trying to get access to a place down in Six Mile Canyon? Never saw anything else on that. I would imagine most places up toward V.C. are chossy enough nobody would care to try them.
I see there are options here, and that's good. Looking for a place close to home for this.
Speaking of Washoe Boulders, have I got this right? It's a screen shot of google earth, looking north. You can see the fields where the deer hang out in south Washoe Valley on the top left. Top right, there's a ridge line full of short chossy basalt stuff where I could probably get lots of practice when the snow melts. It's not part of Washoe Boulders is it?
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Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
No that is a separate lil crag-- up behind the Scripps ranch ..
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
Well, it was such a nice day I thought I'd run over to Dino Rock and try PA Corner, looking for the LA from another thread. Got there just early enough for there to be sunshine; but screwed around just a little too long and the sunshine turned to shade. Built an anchor, sorted gear, got dressed up, and started up.

After a whole whopping 12 feet or so (epic, right?) and placing two cams I failed. After screwing around so long my hands got cold. So damn cold they got numb and I couldn't so much as feel the rock, other than to curl my fingers and guess that I had a fair grip in the crack. At that point, I convinced myself it was a bad idea to try leading a 10a for my third run with the Silent Partner all alone in an icy canyon with numb hands while still recovering from the Norovirus three days ago, especially having only led up to 5.9 so far. Jeez what a puss.

Packed it in and went chukar hunting instead. No luck there either. Probably should have tried Sunny Delight at Carson Valley Sentinel instead.

Sure was a nice day for a hike though.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 26, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
Hillrat
If you become to frustrated by lack of an appropriate place to place your pins give me a holler.I have need for as many pins as you would care to sell. Just this day I sighted another nearby, not to chossy pile, that would yield many a fearsome 5.3d and there is nothing more reassuring than a solid pin (knifeblade lost arrow or small angle)before a runout.I'll pay top dollar.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
Thanks for the offer. I'll be keeping them though, there really are plenty of places in the back country that are appropriate as all get-out; but I was just looking close to home here.

If, on the other hand, you could use someone to climb with let me know. Though from the shining examples above you can probably guess my capability.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 26, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
Hillrat,
Hell yeah if your capable of 5.3(d) and are willing to bring the pins i have some projects in mind right off the Pyramid Hwy. with sunny exposure and out of snow zone. Helmet recommended.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 26, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
DOnt feel bad Hillrat,, PA corner is fairly challenging even though its short. I had much the same results my first crack at it in 75.. Plus that is a cold location right now anyhow..

And beware of the 5.3 rating of Mr Rick Sumner,,,im just sayin.. Muwaahhahaaaa, but he is a climbing machine!
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 26, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
Now Ron, You know quite well that my 5.3 abilities dont encompass much beyond the likes of PA, if even that,even with the fearsome d rating. Anyway Hillrat i scoured the choss piles out 445 way and found two little walls with discontinuous crack systems, fairly solid rock (though some trundling by the second would be recommended), that would yield classic climbs up to about 150'. Ron if your feeling up to it come along, it will be fun, but of course as usual success is not guaranteed. Hillrat what days can you climb. My schedule is currently wide open.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 01:23am PT
I'm stuck with a m-f kind of job, so weekends are best for me. I like all that area out on pyramid, actually own some acres out of Palomino Valley, though any rock up that way is no more than over-stacked piles of gravel. There definitely looks to be some quality stuff out there, especially if you're willing to hike and/or 4x4 a bit.

Took my friend from Sacto to Pig Rock out there for his first climb. I think he had to change shorts when we taught him to rap off LSoH. 'course, being a bunch of noobs we didn't stand a chance at anything on that wall.

Can't make any promises, but I'll be happy to give it a shot.
Meanwhile... couple more pictures

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rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 27, 2013 - 01:55am PT
Palomino-i live out there. The wall is actually visible from 445 but the access is 4x4 off the Pig Rock approach road. I don't know what your plans are for tomorrow but if you want i'd probably be up for a jaunt up there. We might even be able to get up one of easier lines. #475-0357 or 907-232-1874. P.s. not a pile of gravel rather closer to Iron Butte but with a bit more looser areas.
WTF

climber
Jan 27, 2013 - 04:19am PT
Jeebus for f*#k sake your sobriety is f*#king bitter.

WML your knowledge on hammering sh#t is like listening to a nun talk about f*#king stfu and move to Vegas.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 27, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
Well hell Hillrat the scattered clouds and full moon yielded to the winter wonderland again. Damn. Maybe next weekend we can use some of those pins.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 12, 2013 - 02:05pm PT

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Dinosaur Rock

Carson City, Nevada
775-882-2766
Visit Website

Dinosaur Rock is a 140-foot-high crag south of Carson City. The rock is eroded and decomposed in many spots, but the climbing is nonetheless challenging. Due to the northern exposure, Dinosaur is sunny in the mornings, shady in the afternoons, and oftentimes too cold to climb in the winter.
YDS:5.5 - 5.10+
Grade: III-IV
Getting There:Turn right on Clear Creek Rd. off U.S. 395. Drive 1.5 miles and park on the small pullout to the left of Dinosaur Rock. Cross the creek to the right of the crag.

^^^^^^The above posted in "Travel Nevada" website under climbing,, the ONLY listing in that section... Dinosaur is now grade 111 or 1V ROFLMAO!!!!!!
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Apr 12, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
Go drive some pins... of all different sizes.Figure it out, go have fun. Stack em, whip on em', pull em' and clean em'! you never know what you might have to do up there!

Go get the adventure... just avoid the ground.

P.s. chop those WWII pitons to different sizes... they work better.

Good grief!
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
is that a touron rating? or does it mean i can string my hammock up for a night with a case of beer?

i have practiced with the pins a little, but not at dino. been picking on chossy little gravel piles out where nobody would find me til chukar season.

ron, you ever been up along the old v.c flume road? thinkin of climbing around up here, naming it Troll Tower.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#298536
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 12, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
Been there but just passin through.. Looks cool.!
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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Missing photo ID#296610
its not real tall, and the rock is probably mostly crap. you need a STOUT 4x4 to get there, or be willing to hike a mile or so. all the qualities that mean i could grid-bolt (but i wont) and nobody would care, or probly even notice.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 12, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
Yep-- know the spot. Its all yurz..;-) Used to see a few birds above -on top. Approached it from the VC side bitd..
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Apr 12, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
How steep is Dinosaur Rock? I could static jump it if it's steep enough. But, I'm really looking for 250'+ rock in the area, that I can free fall.

Hey Hillrat, I'd be willing to link up with you one of these days if you want some tips/beta on aiding and big wall techniques. I'm ten minutes North of Reno and have been exploring the area... hit me up.

Cheers!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 12, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
IKSNAY on Dino Dude,, 120' if you dont count the trees at the bottom lol!



Shakespear rock (350') comes to mind, but the landing is non existant really.

ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Apr 12, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
I've done a 110' static, but only had a 2 second canopy ride. Come'on Ron, I'm betting you know where the taller stuff is.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 12, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
There is great stuff, but not so local.. Like the gorge up in the Charles Sheldon Antelope reserve. LOTS of steepness, crisp edges and air there. 200 to 400'..Most the closer NV stuff is on the dome side of angles. Cept that ridge on Limbo but thats a four puke approach. There is a choss pile out near the stillwaters though, but i cant remember exactly where it is, but had a fairly steep face on one side maybe 200'..
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
yeah, that,d be great. most of what i do comes from books n webs, so it,d be great to get some tips in person. i always wonder about the rock in the humboldt range, tho the approach to all that wouldwbe killer hiking. probly all limestone anyway.

still have a house at Stead. nothin much tall enuf to climb out there. ever look at the rock out by Pyramid? some tallish lookin stuff out there. still gota go meet Rick one of these days.
kid is sure worth the time i dont have for climbing...
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Apr 13, 2013 - 12:20am PT
Ah, I was getting my creature formation's mixed up. I saw 140' on Dino and thought it was the photo I saw of Pig Rock with the truck parked underneath, ha ha.

I've been checking out Frenchman's a bit, been up there a handful of times. Looks like good development potential; sport, trad, highline's and maybe one sketchy BASE jump. Some adventure to be had for sure.

How about Horton Ridge, West of there? Couldn't tell for sure but looked like some fun to be had. The nipple to the South of that looks like it might be a worthy granite dome; Reconnaissance Peak?

Anyway, the offer stands Hillrat...

Oh, and thanks Ron, I'll check it out.
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Apr 14, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
Hillrat, I did some recon yesterday in the desert.

I found the perfect rock you can practice the art of placing as many pins as you want. It's 25 minutes North of Reno. There's also some established aid lines with rivets, hooks and beaks. I'd be happy to show you where it is... or anyone else, for that matter.

Cheers!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 14, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
hhmmmm why do i think that may be "the cube" yur talking about- off 395 towards susanville- east of the highway? kinda graffitied ??
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Apr 14, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
Yup, that's it Ron. I didn't know anything about it, just happened upon it yesterday. One of the routes has a fixed beak in it.
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Apr 14, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
Here's some some other areas that I checked out yesterday... looks like some good free climbing and some possible BASE exits.

Credit: ElCapPirate

Credit: ElCapPirate

Credit: ElCapPirate

Credit: ElCapPirate

Credit: ElCapPirate
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 14, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
Ill say this much,, you got BASE-BALLZ!!!


The cube was established back in 90, by Jim Arnold and myself, we did 1 route and were trying a very hard line, which we never got. That is now the aid line done by parties unkown.
we only put one anchor in the top for TR-ing.



Nice shots of the up-norf stuff!
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Apr 14, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
You know, Ron... I totally thought of you when I found it and saw there were routes on it. I figured if you didn't put them in, you would know who did. Seems like a good place to practice big wall techniques.

Credit: ElCapPirate
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Apr 14, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson


We worked the highway face-(Pic on the right) it was super difficult and beyond our weak grasps.. Guess aid was the next logical step..
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
Nice! When I get up that way, I'd love to try it.
Went to the gun-ridiculouslypriceditems-show yesterday. Quaded up to the old V.C pipeline road today and played around. Choss for sure, but fun. Put a bolt in a trough where the rock was actually fair, and for my bolting practice. Feel free to chop it if you don't like it. It's in about two inches. Hell, maybe I should go pull it myself. But then, people would have to go up there to notice it.
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Missing photo ID#298835
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Apr 15, 2013 - 01:04am PT
Yup, you're on the right track Hillrat. Practice in such an obscure area that nobody cares or even notices, not even you... when you revisit. YAARRRR!!
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2013 - 01:20am PT
Thanks. Hell, I'd love to put up a quality route some day; but I'm the crazy bastard who wants to go canyoneering something obscure with a goldpan over in CA this summer and climb out up something unknown. Or that's the theory anyway. If one of the few, brave souls who've contacted me here actually ends up going along for the adventure (possible epic), well then I suppose there's a chance something decent might get climbed. Though I doubt it would be oft repeated, goldpan and all. heh heh

What I need to do is find more time to climb, and go do some more established routes at Dinosaur Rock with the silent partner, among other things.
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Apr 15, 2013 - 01:31am PT
Hell! Arrrr you talk'n GOLD? I have the fever, I'll pan with the best of 'em. I'll climb the 'ell out of the choss... and when all else fails... I'll JUMP!
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2013 - 01:44am PT
I am. There's some really small flake where I'd like to try, and last year I saw a thoroughly illegal high-banking operation going on upstream of my target. Doubt anyone much gets down where it steepens. Haven't seen any active claims, and plan to search that before going. It's mostly rock, steep, and choss like you never seen before, but I've seen pools of gravel down in there with binocs, and ya just never know. Figure, goldpan, sleeping bag, an MRE or two. Go down and pan a little saturday, try to get out sunday. I pan about as good as I climb, which is crap in either case. My main goal is not getting dead, and having some fun.
Like, today... I did a dumb thing and got run over by my buddy on his quad. First really stupid thing I've done in a long time. Lesson learned, won't do that again. Except I figure in climbing, well, I try to be less accident-prone. Gravity's a bitch.

Go up one page on this thread, first three pics are upper canyon, where it starts getting steep.
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