"Rocky Mountain High" (scrambles part deux)

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 83 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Jun 9, 2006 - 11:14am PT
T-storms are starting EARLY this week, you should be too.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2006 - 11:57am PT
good to know rhodo,
i know you are living up in it, so thanks.
i'm thinking full commando-mode-super-pre-dawn-raid style.
no foolin' around.

Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Jun 9, 2006 - 04:14pm PT
The initial words + pictures of this thread are downright excellent!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2006 - 11:33am PT
Nate D:
Thanks for the kudos!
I do these light hearted photo blurbs for my entertainment and your amusement.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2006 - 11:45am PT
The snow pack in the Colorado mountains has already thinned out considerably; it's time to get out and play.

Here's the Wetterhorn out of Lake City,
In the San Juan's Uncompahgre Group:
(a couple years back, later season)


There is a nifty second class ridge on the left skyline,
and on the backside, a sweet little one pitch fifth class direct finish.

The San Juan's Northern edge have quite the lovely fells:
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2006 - 07:59pm PT

Say What Honey?
Moi, Affected By Altitude you ask?
No, Never Noticed Anything...

Strap in Doll,
We're Headin' Up The Business End Of Some Prancy 5.3:

Steady on the Hash Pipe Tarbuster,
And Pull Up On That Skinny Cord!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2006 - 10:20am PT
The view from the summit of Wetterhorn Peak is quite extensive:
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jun 15, 2006 - 10:54am PT
I loaned my Shoenards (which were in pretty good condition as I hardly used them) to a young gal from Vancouver BC about nine years ago. I worked with her here in Dublin and was going to take her climbing down at Dalkey Quarry here.

Never happened and I never saw the shoes again but I donít mind at all, as long as she used them when she moved back to Canada. She had climbed a bit in BC, but I donít know if she ever pursued it further. If any of you BC Supertacos run into a pretty redhead named (Heather) Kirsten Cameron, say hello to her from me, if she remembers me. She'd be about 30 now.

I liked the Shoenards for aid (not as much as my old RRs) but I didnít think much of them for free climbing in general (great for edging). Some guys liked them, I remember Barber climbing a lot in them, and Steve Wunsch too if I recall correctly.

Just out of curiosity, were there other colors for the following shoes than the standardÖ blue for RRs, green for Shoenards, blue for EBs, red for PAs?

When my first EBs soles were wearing out and my PAs almost dead as well, I sent the PAs off to Colorado to be resoled, but with EB rubber. I thought that Iíd get the EB smear with the PA edging. They worked alright. I canít remember who did it (1975), Gary Neptune or was it Steve Something or another (Yakamono or something?)

Yeah I really like climbing in the Galibier Super Guides, great for the mountains.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jun 15, 2006 - 02:01pm PT
When my first EBs soles were wearing out and my PAs almost dead
as well, I sent the PAs off to Colorado to be resoled, but with EB
rubber. I thought that Iíd get the EB smear with the PA edging. They
worked alright. I canít remember who did it (1975), Gary Neptune or
was it Steve Something or another (Yakamono or something?)


Steve Komito, I'd guess, in '75. Isn't he still fixing boots up in Estes?

Snark (III 5.6) on Powell Peak in RMNP, back about then:

Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jun 15, 2006 - 04:18pm PT
Chiloe, that's right it was Steve Komito. I hope the forgetfulness isn't an early warning about senile dementia, or horrors, Alzheimers (which my mom and several of her sisters have, or died of).
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2006 - 04:18pm PT
Yes Patrick,
Komito as Chiloe said. Remarkably, Komito has been around although in recent years I can't say I've been in the shop.

There is a cool picture of Gary Neptune working on boots in Komito's repair shop, sometime in the wayback...

The Shoenards were sold by Chouinard in a beige version; I never had a beige pair (I have the green version), but my recollection is that the last varied between the two, with the green being narrower and a tad more precise.

PA's were for a short period re-marketed in a green upper.

'Nice shot of Snark on Powell Chiloe!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2006 - 07:30pm PT
Right next to Powell is McHenry's,
Just a couple years ago I ran up the Gorge to McHenhry's in those green Shoenards which Patrick spoke of, which I thought were called (Vasque Tarantola?) and soloed a route up a headwall to the Arrowhead ridge of McHenry's, topped out, scrambled over Powell and carried on over to Flat Top and back down for a long day.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2006 - 07:41pm PT

Here's the completion of the Wetterhorn Pics.
Again, from the Summit:

The San Juans, Located in SW Colorado,
Comprise 4000 square miles, a lot of Wilderness:
Granted, a lot of the rock is shattered, (well most), but if you are a broken down rock rat and scrambling is your standard fare, this place is the ticket...
scuffy b

climber
Chalet Neva-Care
Jun 15, 2006 - 08:21pm PT
The beige Shoenard (Vasque Ascender II) had the plastic
midsole thinned at the toes unlike the greenies which were
the same thickness toe to heel (about 1/4").
Before the beige ones came out Dale Bard had me dissect his
green ones and grind the midsole down, tapering to nothing
at the toe, starting at the ball of the foot. I stuck a Nitrene
sole on there. They were hot stuff at Indian Rock on the tiny
edges but when Dale took them to the Valley he thought they
were not quite grippy enough (but just barely).

The green PAs were changed from the red/black as an attempt to
catch up to EBs: softer and stickier than the red ones.
The same shoe was made in another color (purple?) and called
RRs.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jun 15, 2006 - 09:01pm PT

Green 'nards= (brittle) metal midsole and lifetime garauntee, unscrupulous droogs of mine took that to mean a chisel meant shoes for life! Thus, came the brown 'nards.

brown nards= plastic midsole.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
boulder, co
Jun 15, 2006 - 09:11pm PT
Yesterday in the Indian Peaks.


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2006 - 10:53am PT
Nice little assemblage of chattering flowers Bob.
Were they all talking at once?
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jun 16, 2006 - 11:17am PT
BOB, I sitll want to knwo what those flowers are.

What lens is that BTW?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2006 - 11:10pm PT
Dirt Daddy,
Whutever we call those flowers, they are quite crude in comparison to what they happen to name themselves.

Here's my flower, on a lackadaisical alpine start:

...On our way to Mt Meeker's NE Ridge,

Seen En Route at Sun Rise,
Audubon Shown Un-dramaticaly on Left,
And The Sawtooth, At Center, Where We Were Married.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2006 - 12:43am PT

Mt Meeker 13,911'

Mt Meeker, Longs Peak, Mt Lady Washington,
13, 911', 14,255', 13,281'
The Diamond is on Long's East Face, Front Center

Messages 41 - 60 of total 83 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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