JesseM
Social climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 5, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
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Hey People,
For those of you who don’t know me yet, I am the new Climbing Ranger in Yosemite.
It's been another hot, hot, June day in the Valley. Looks like it will be in the high 80s for the better part of week.
Anyway, I just wanted to follow up with everyone on this forum (those of you interested) about some of the things we talked about below Columbia Boulder on Sunday at Camp 4 coffee.
1) Food storage at the new lockers at El Cap, the Ahwahnee, and Bridalveil parking. People have been using them, and that's sweet! So far I haven't heard of any bear incidents at El Cap parking or at the base this year (however, if you do have or have had a run in with a bear please let me know so we know what is working and what’s not). The problem is that some folks have decided they are a convenient place to leave garbage and extra gear. I understand putting your garbage there overnight, but you can't just leave it there. Please pack it out and leave room for other people while they are climbing as well. Also, if you see stuff in those boxes that is definitely trash, help us all out by taking some with you (even if it is not yours)!
2) Abandoned equipment; see following thread--too much info.
3) The Peregrine Closures on The Rhombus Wall, The Rostrum, Fifi Buttress, and Glacier Point are still in effect. I went out to Reed’s on Saturday to check out the Rostrum pair. There are a couple of downy white chicks having a great time just chilling on that ledge. Once again please respect these incredible birds and let them have the space they need to fly away from the Rostrum on their own accord.
4) Permits for sleeping at the base of Liberty Cap are not available. If you want to climb Liberty Cap and sleep closer to the base you can get a permit for Little Yosemite Valley about 1.2 miles past the approach for Liberty Cap. Of course you can not sleep at the base of El Cap, Wash. Column, The Leaning Tower or any other wall in the Valley. However, you can get a permit for the North Face of Half Dome (keep in mind it is required to have a bear can). If you have any more questions about permits please direct them to the Wilderness Center in the Valley.
There were all kinds of other juicy subjects that also came up, such as the quality of our coffee. However, you’ll have to show up next week in the flesh to hear about the good stuff. Once again I am completely available to talk to or write to whenever you have questions or comments.
Peace,
Jesse
jesse_mcgahey@nps.gov Phone (209) 372-0354
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pyro
Trad climber
Ventura
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Tx's for the info.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Of course you can not sleep at the base of El Cap, Wash. Column, The Leaning Tower or any other wall in the Valley.
This only applies to the night time right?
Will I get a ticket if I take a 2:30pm nap at the base of the LT?
Please advise.
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JIMB
Trad climber
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Whats wrong with sleeping at the base of a route? What the hell is the world coming too? It's bullsh#t.
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The Schmutzvink
climber
The WAY past
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i agree
permits, permits, permits
I URGE CIVIL DISOBEDIANCE
bivy where you want. just clean up after yourself and don't get caught.
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Dingus Milktoast
climber
NorCal
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Say there Jesse, what's your take on the disappearing summit registers in YNP? It seems people have been removing summit registers under the mantle of authority (something about summit registers violating the wilderness act or some other horse shit)or even pretending to be performing trash removal?
I'd very much like to understand your position on this...as would many other climbers I'm sure.
DMT
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Hope you enjoyed that honeymoon, Jesse.
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Mimi
Trad climber
Seattle
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Jesse, you've entered the Octogon.
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zardoz
Trad climber
Austin, TX
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Ha ha ha. Good imagery with that old Chuck Norris flick. Hey Jesse, I hope to meet you when I get out there this summer. Take care.
-Tim
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bearbnz
Trad climber
Bridgeport, CA
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As DMT alluded to above, the new climbing ranger has proven by his actions that he is against fixed installations in the wilderness. On his own initiative (according to his supervisor), Jesse removed the summit register from Matterhorn Peak (on the north boundary of the park). Said summit register has been given over to me for replacement, and should be back on the summit by the end of June. Read this SummitPost thread to view the whole story.
The question this brings: Is this really the right person to interact with climbers in this "wilderness" setting when he feels as he does about fixed installations?
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Fixed installations are illegal in the wilderness unless they are historical peices. What did Jesse do wrong? Does this one register really mean so much to everyone?
Also, why not call Jesse? His phone is listed above.
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Mimi
Trad climber
Seattle
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Climbers generally view summit registers as historical items that should be left in place.
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hobo
climber
PDX
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This summit register has been there for less than four years. Historical?
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Mimi
Trad climber
Seattle
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I can't say why it didn't have a register from the old days. I'm sure most don't. It's a matter of principle to leave them alone. If set up sensibly, you hardly notice they're there. And they're fun to read if you have time to hang out on the summit, especially the old ones.
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Bilbo
Trad climber
Truckee
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Tell me what the f*#k is the problem with a summit register? Another unpractical bullshit law that has no meaning or bearing on the health of the environment, park or wilderness.
F*#kin officials sit in there offices with there heads up there asses, eating donuts, drinking shitty coffee, and making rules that have no meaning in the "Real" world.
This is getting out of hand...We as climbers need to draw a line in the sand NOW or face ultimate closure to our right to explore and enjoy the mountains and cliffs.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Bilbo, the term TOOL, springs to mind.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Does this one register really mean so much to everyone?
First they came for the registers...
I'm not so sure I like this WMP. I have proudly signed "fixed installations" on all kinds of (wilderness) peaks, including the one in question. I'm usually the guy looking for a pen. I have even received "Christian literature" from lofty peaks in the Sierra. But I guess I don't blame the steward; he's just doing his job...sounds like this decision was made 'on high'.
Let's start by maybe banning equestrians or something other than innocuous little
 's JMO. Speaking of piss and crap on the trails and in the watershed...
I gotta say walking up a trail covered with horse and mule feces/urine to Ruby Wall definitely “interfered with the solitude that (this) backcountry user was looking for”.
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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I'm glad we've solved every other issue plaguing the park and we can finally rid America's most historic climbing locale of the scourge of summit registers.
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bearbnz
Trad climber
Bridgeport, CA
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I guess the point of the whole thing was that bolts, pins, 'heads, and such are also fixed installations, and therefore subject to removal at the whim of the wilderness rangers.
The point was also made that the removal of the Matterhorn register was on the initiative of the wilderness ranger alone, it was not a supervisory directive.
Edit for hobo: How are you sure that this is the only register removed by this individual? As to the historical age of 4 years, I'll look at it when I get home and see if that is accurate.
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radical
Trad climber
Estoy en Potrero guey
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"""On his own initiative (according to his supervisor), Jesse removed the summit register from Matterhorn Peak (on the north boundary of the park""""
Is this true???????
Needless to say without going into a debate this is pretty damn ridiculous....
Saving the world one Summit Register at a time are we????
And you can always blame henchman for doing their jobs.
PS..I would guess the octagon is reference to The Ultimate Fighting Challenge not a Chick Norris flick.
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