Widows Tears Ascent 1/13/13

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Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 14, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
"Widows Tears just got climbed! Hello, are you there? What are you doing dude? Wake Up!" Voice mail from Paul sets the hook on 1/3/13. Was it our time to finally get a chance to do this climb? Only time would tell. The following day, we were in Yosemite looking up at the route. 3:30 am, 1/5/13 we left the car hiking up prior to Sundays approaching storm. By 7 am we were making our way back down. The first pitch had pulled away from the wall some 4 inches, would not hold a pick and felt like it was ready to collapse. Crap! Had we missed our shot at this great route by 2 days?



We ended the weekend climbing in familiar stomping grounds, the Whiskey Routes. The Sunday storm moved through California and news from the Internet some three days later notes the 1st 300' of the route fell down. Sounds like we may have made the right call bailing before we even got started.

I dream of climbing, even in my sleep, and I could not get the idea of climbing the Widows Tears out of my mind. Oh well, I leave on Friday to climb ice on the East Coast in hopefully Vermont, New York & New Hampshire. How bad could it be. Yes, that bad as the cold weather is still lingering around California.

1/10/13 Another phone call from Paul confirms I am not the only one Jones'n for this route. "Brian, Gilly can't go, Chip can't go, Scotty too. You are going to have to cancel your flight." Warm temps in the East keeps my partner at ease.

Two days later, we noticed a party four pitches from the top as we came into the Valley around 4 pm. The Widows Tears is now getting lapped. After racking up, we put down a couple of beers at the Lodge eagerly awaiting the next days climb. Social Media for the Widows Tears has got every ice climber within 300 or so miles excited. I say to Paul, "See those guys over there? They are going up there tomorrow." "Those guys?" Paul says. Yes, them also, I reply. Could there really be that many people with the same objective?

1/13/13 3:15 am We pull into the Bridalveil Fall parking area to the sight of headlamps shining from within a Mini van. Paul almost hits my car sliding across the icy parking lot knowing we need to go, and go fast. The Mini van races off turning up 140 towards Wawona. We leave the cars wondering what was that all about. Did those guys go to park at the base? Are they getting dropped off? Yikes, did we miss our chance again? As we walk up the road at a brisk pace we start to question our timing, who may have been in the Mini van and what the route would be like with more than one party on it. Now walking parallel above 140 on a old snow covered dirt road following what look to be our foot prints from the way out a week prior. There are no other tracks in sight. What about the people that we saw yesterday, how did they hike in? As we near the trail head below the climb we see headlamps ahead coming our way. A few steps later we turn off of the road and make our way up the steep slope. We continued moving up the steep trail a mere 50 Meters about the other team. Paul yells a Good Morning Greeting out into the dark night. "Top of the Morning to you!" they reply. Within 5 minutes the glimmer of a headlamp only came from our own, only hoping there were no other parties up ahead.



When we arrived at the base, we found a beautiful 70 meter 8.1 mm rope which appeared to have been dropped which I coiled thinking we would bring it with us. Fat chance. Paul anchors in at the base of the route with that nice rope at his feet.



Paul nears the anchor after the 1st pitch.



Top of the 2nd pitch.



Paul takes the next two pitches. Pitch 3 below.



Warming the hands while following pitch 3.



Pitch 4.



Looking down from the 3rd belay.



Following pitch 4.



Moving into the 5th belay.



Looking up at the final pitches.



Sheltered belay before a the rope stretching Shower pitch 6.



This long pitch was filled with excitement. I opened up two geysers when removing my picks giving Paul a good shower.



Paul follows quickly trying to avoid the shower from above.







Paul moves quickly into his next lead, pitch 7.









Paul tells me to take us to the top and into the heat of the afternoon sun.



Savoring the final pitch.





Paul making the final moves to the top of pitch 8.

Great climb!

We mosied down the Pohono Trail stoked for the adventure.







The Pohono Trail ended at Tunnel View and we walked back to Bridalveil Fall parking area.



Cheers!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Jan 14, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
We're all waiting.....
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 14, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
Brian 10 feet up about to back off on our first attempt on 1/05/13.
1/05/13
1/05/13
Credit: Stewart Johnson
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 14, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
great tease!
can't wait for more!!

BRAVO!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Jan 14, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
What ascent of WT would this be? The Third??? I know it's not often sended.
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:05am PT
good stuff guys
john hansen

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:23am PT
LL LL

I think this might be 7 or 8 or even higher. Some of the teams do not report.

It has been really cold the last week.




Trade route,,,,,:)

Yeah right. Just dont fall off with it.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:25am PT
OK, ready for the next episode.....:D
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:26am PT
For those of us not among the cognoscendi, where exactly is this ice climb located?

Thanks, eh?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:29am PT
widows tears and the silver strand on the right.
widows tears and the silver strand on the right.
Credit: Stewart Johnson
on 1/12/13
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:30am PT
You don't recognize those talus slopes way down there in the sun, PTPP?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:30am PT
How long is widows tears is it the longest ice climb in the valley?
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:36am PT
The rock up there looks pretty savory too.
john hansen

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:41am PT
PTPP, If I am not mistaken , it is above hwy 41 between bridal vail and the look out. I think it is above the road.
I asked the same question a few years back.


Stewart Johnson, where was that shot taken from? The Reeds pullout?

John M

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:45am PT
John, Thats where it is. You can't see it from the lookout just outside the tunnel.. You can see it from the bridge.

You can see silver strand from the lookout.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:49am PT
It's across the valley from the Little Wing cliff and The Audubon Buttress on the Old Big Oak Flat Road, above Fern Spring and The Pohono Bridge.

The Amphitheater is so deep and narrow it's well hidden.
john hansen

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:53am PT
It is really not that amazing that a 1000 foot high cliff can go pretty much un- noticed in Yosemite

. An obscure wall in the vally of obscure walls,,
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:08am PT
I hate you guys! In a good way. Super jealous. Congratulations!

The first pitch had pulled away from the wall some 4 inches, would not hold a pick and felt like it was ready to collapse.

It did fall off! On Thursday! My partner and I were attempting it on Friday and first pitch was screwed. Super thin with water flowing under thin ice. We had to bail about 60 or so feet up. Major first world problem!

What a location though. Hope I have another chance.

1/11/2013 friday
1/11/2013 friday
Credit: Vitaliy M.
views!
views!
Credit: Vitaliy M.
it had water flowing under thin layer everywhere. Those screws were useless.
1st pitch shuts us down
1st pitch shuts us down
Credit: Vitaliy M.
It looked so great above. I am super sad we did not have more days to wait for it to form over the next few cold days.
At least the views were nice!
At least the views were nice!
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Some day...



john hansen

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:21am PT
You know,, now that I think about it these are the cliff's on the left , you see while you are driving by the river between the intersection with 120 and Ponoho bridge.

It makes sense that 41 goes out above those falls.

I would say east of the Rostrum.
John M

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:23am PT
It makes sense that 41 goes out above those falls.

No.. not above.

The climb is above 41

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-widows-tears-area/106578703
john hansen

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:27am PT
OK ,, got it above the road, thanks
John M

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:30am PT
Watch the video. You will see silver strand falls. Then check out the pictures above the video. When at the lookout outside the tunnel on 41.. silver strand falls is first, then widows tears is hidden by on outcrop of rock, which is why you can't see it from the lookout, then bridal veil falls.

http://www.world-of-waterfalls.com/yosemite-silver-strand-falls.html
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:04am PT
Awesome Bump!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:09am PT
Nice ascent, beautiful pics.
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:18am PT
Nice work guys! Perseverance paid off. Congrats on a stellar ascent.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:24am PT
It's going to take a pretty neat trick for this to not end up the ST 2013 TR of the year! Great job!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:25am PT
Awesomeness! Thnx!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:32am PT
Yowzaa! TFPU
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:33am PT
Right on, Brian, my Bro.....Looks like ya'll are getting after it.
Woot! Nicely done.
Prod

Trad climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 10:01am PT
Awesome.

Prod.
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Jan 15, 2013 - 10:03am PT
Great Job Brian and Paul!! Big Congrats. You guys smoked it so fast! When we did it in 2003, spent 24 hours car to car...no basking in afternoon sun thats for sure...Way impressive.

Peter
David Wilson

climber
CA
Jan 15, 2013 - 10:13am PT
Way to go guys !
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 15, 2013 - 11:15am PT
Uber Phat conditions!

Thanks for the share!

Ice in the shade, boat drinks in the sun. I love it!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 15, 2013 - 11:15am PT
Wow! Wow! Wow!

Fabulous ascent and report!

Thanks for the beta on where this is located, guys. I still do knott have it entirely clear in my mind's eye but will have a look this spring.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 15, 2013 - 11:17am PT
Now that's the official alpine climber way to do it. Makin' it look easy!

Outstanding job, and some really cool photos - especially the ones looking down from high on the route that show the amazing architecture of the amphitheater, and the way the whole route spirals below.

That brought back some great memories - thanks.

I hope more climbers have the opportunity to experience it this year.
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Jan 15, 2013 - 11:28am PT
Great job
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Jan 15, 2013 - 11:36am PT
awesome! those great pics really do bring back the memories of that route. good job guys!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 15, 2013 - 11:37am PT
Forgot to mention -

You guys look psyched!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
Did you guys need any rock pro at all? Great report.
dave

climber
Earth
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
Nice work guys! RADNESS!!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
Oh man that looked so awesome.
Congrats to the two of you!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
Hey Berg it's just like that one we did... mmm.. ok not so much .

Freaking stellar climb and huge thanks for Posting.
roy

Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
Jan 15, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
A fantastic climb. It really looked in great condition - hard to imagine that parts of it fell off the week before.

Cheers, Roy
ClimbingOn

Trad climber
NY
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
Super sick. Widow's Tears is now at the very top of my Valley to-do list. Maybe next year??? We'll see!
klk

Trad climber
cali
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
killer.

good pix
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
Thanks everyone , i couldn't stop thinking about you guys on the first ascent so many
years ago .True hardmen breaking into the unknown .
As far as gear we brought three cams and a few nuts . 14 screws which we needed
for we dropped a few and a bunch of runners and draws
We managed the route in 8 pitches and give it a WI 4 plus Canadian.
One 70m cord

We spent About 8 hours on the route with a lovely pipe nap in the sun on top.
Cheers Paul Teare
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
Truly a bitchen TR. GREAT photos, really gives the feeling of what the route is all about.

The only thing is



It makes the FA all the more impressive when you look at the gear those clowns were using. C'on now! "Let's go climbing" never really holds as much meaning as when you're about to FA a Grade VI waterfall with no prior knowledge of ice. And with only two "axes..."


Still, this is a proud and envious ascent!!
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
Photos from the ascent in 07 for ice fullness comparison.
Se le difference

Photo: Flanders

Photo: Flanders

Photo: Flanders

Photo: Flanders

Edit: This ascent was done by Doug Nidever, Dave Bengston and Scott Brown.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 15, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
BADAZZ,, and NICE stretches on the leads!!!!!
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 15, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
No no no, not me on that ascent of The Tears.. The ascent from 07 was Doug Nidever, Dave Bengston and Scott Brown.. You obviously don't know me if you thought I was in on that ascent LOL! I woulda pulled that whole MoFo right off that wall, bonded or not!
chappy

Social climber
ventura
Jan 15, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
Totally awesome guys. I must admit I salivate even now looking at the photos. It is such beautiful captivating route. It reminds me of why Kev and I just had to do it BITD and why I had to go back for more with Ed.
Good job!
Chappy
WallMan

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Jan 15, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
Hey Brian - congrats on a great looking line! Wally
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jan 15, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
Fabulous! Thanks for the TR and pictures (and for the comparison shots from '07).

John
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Jan 15, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
Excellent job fellas! That looks sweet. Gotta get back there soon.
Johnny K.

climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
Awesome stuff!
aran

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Jan 15, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
Incredible send- way to be there and make the most of conditions! Congratulations.
lucho

Trad climber
California
Jan 15, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
So sick you guys! Awesome and proud send! Congrats!
slidingmike

climber
CA
Jan 15, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
Awesome well done! Brian, it sounds like it was worth delaying your trip east...
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jan 15, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
Fantastic Pics/tr. Please consider posting or linking to from the Trip Reports section so it's easier to find in the future.
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Jan 15, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
HECK YEAH! Absolutely fantastic. Threads like this are why I am on the website. Excellent send!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jan 15, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
Whoo hoo!!!!
Great stuff, guys!
There's only a few (ha ha), envious people that read your
report!!!!
Thanks for sharing!
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Jan 15, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
Extremely clever way to do a TR,and awesome send!!!!
Michelle

Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Jan 15, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
talk about demonstration of how to HTFU! Thanks for doing this so I don't ever have to.

micronut

Trad climber
Jan 15, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
SUper proud send guys. Makin that thing look all Eigery for sure.

Supertopo at its finest. Yall probably poached it from some euro frenchies wearin matching full body suits and headbands. Way to rep-re-zent.

This photo is sooo full of stoke.
Credit: micronut
Full Value fer sher!

simply theresa

climber
Yosemite
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
Wow. An ascent by Greg and Jason on the 8th, Paul and Brian on the 13th and another party of 3 were on the route today (1/15)? Is that ascents 10, 11 and 12 then?

Congratulations to all!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 15, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
we saw a party on the Widows Tears on the 12th also that makes 4 ascents
this year.
no woman has climbed any of these yosemite ice routes
which is unnaceptable and
why im still single!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 15, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
Those two guys on the 12th were Kim Dao and Rick Harlin. I talked to the Daoist today he is one of my best buds and the guy I climbed my two el cap routes with way back when. It was so cool to share his story with him in a way that really touched me. My hat's off to all that got it done this time around. What an amazing climb.
Byran

climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
Jan 15, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
That's amazingly cool and a route that I hope to do at some point in my life. That whole area up there is pretty unique and remote feeling. Most people don't notice how big the walls are because they're set back away from the road a good ways. It's basically the shady-side version of the Ribbon Falls Amphitheater. And the rock climbs up there feature some of the mildest temperatures you will find in the Valley during the height of summer.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
Thanks Everyone!

Thanks for having the vision and making the write ups on the FA. It was great to read so much history before going up there and thinking about you guys sleeping on those ledges back then. Awesome!

For posting daily updates of pictures and information on the route.

Making for a pretty easy clip after seeing a buried ice screw on the 1st pitch in the dark.

And to those for breaking trail.

Cheers, Brian
scooter

climber
fist clamp
Jan 15, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
Sliverstrand had a party top out before noon today.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 16, 2013 - 12:20am PT

When we arrived at the base, we found a beautiful 70 meter 8.1 mm rope which appeared to have been dropped which I coiled thinking we would bring it with us. Fat chance. Paul anchors in at the base of the route with that nice rope at his feet.


Hey Brian, I think that rope belongs to Kim and Rick from their ascent on the 12th. Kim told me about losing a rope near the top under some sketch conditions. If you care about getting it home, send me a PM, or is it still up there?
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 16, 2013 - 01:22am PT

Great to see your photos Brian ! Good job !
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Jan 16, 2013 - 01:49am PT
Yeah, Flanders, think you've met the widow and her tears before....but I could be wrong.

Cheers to yo ascenders, great pics. Cheers. L.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jan 16, 2013 - 03:04am PT
Great stuff, Brian and Paul! Thanks for sharing.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
Jan 16, 2013 - 07:40am PT
atta boys,
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Jan 16, 2013 - 10:51am PT
badass!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 16, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
Let's keep this one on the first page Bump.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jan 16, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
FUKIN'A BRO
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
Jan 16, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
Nice job lads..............

Stevo
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 16, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
Even mountain proj features you guys on front page!

http://mountainproject.com/v/107965052
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2013 - 07:05pm PT
Wayno-

We left the rope at the base. Maybe the rangers picked it up? I thought about hiking back up but had to catch my flight.

Chapel Pond, NY
Power Play & Big Brother. Chapel Pond, NY
Power Play & Big Brother. Chapel Pond, NY
Credit: Brian Biega

Cheers, Brian
IV

climber
tahoe
Jan 16, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
Can you say Rope Guns? ... not many screws in those photos guys.
Sheesh whata send!
OOOOOY!
IV

climber
tahoe
Jan 16, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
rough it up, stuff it up, balls and all; Tre Bon
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 16, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
We left the rope at the base. Maybe the rangers picked it up?
FYI - The forum protocol is to scream "STOLEN ! ..."
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 16, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
sorry Biotch, all we did was to find it, coil it, and leave it. there was no theft.its still up there!
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Jan 16, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
Hi Kevin
Is it true that the entire route fell off a few days after you and Mark did it?
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jan 16, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
Be nice, Stewrat.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 16, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
Greetings, Mister Beck, how have you been?

The whole route didn't fall off, but the steep middle section did - probably a good 100 ft of the route - 3 days later.

Now I know that sounds crazy to some folks, but when you're obsessed with the climb, and you live in the Valley and have the opportunity to see the climb's changes and how they relate to the weather and temperatures over a period of many weeks, you'll see sections of it fall off. And then rebuild. A pattern of sorts becomes apparent.

The fickle and mysterious nature of the route coupled with its striking beauty are, I think, what make it such an exceptional climb. We watched sections of it fall off a few times before all the factors lined up in a positive way that year. I think we were finally able to climb it on our fifth slog up there.

I sure hope nobody ever goes down with it when it happens, but the moodiness and danger of the climb adds to its power.

There is still time for climbable conditions this season.

Maybe...

Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 17, 2013 - 12:35am PT
Thanks Brian, I told him it was still up there. If anyone on this forum finds it they can PM me and we can get it home. Awesome send, Brian.
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Jan 17, 2013 - 12:52am PT
Kevin Daniels climbed it yesterday.
EDIT: Great job to all.
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jan 17, 2013 - 01:22am PT
Fantastic, and wow! Looks intimidating to me, great job.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 17, 2013 - 01:36am PT
Kevin Daniels climbed it yesterday.
The FFA of an ice route is quite an accomplishment.
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Jan 17, 2013 - 02:22am PT
Not sure I understand.Sorry. Just reporting...


gilly

climber
Mohawk Valley,Ca
Jan 17, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
How often can one have a FULL BLOWN Canadian adventure in the lower 48! And in Cali. no less.Sometimes if you nail it just right,one doesn't have to travel north. Mt.Chephren,Temple,Howse???
Mates, again..... fine work.
G
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 19, 2013 - 12:00am PT

How many assents of the Tears has been made over the years ?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 19, 2013 - 09:33am PT
afternoons are getting warm, is it still there?
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jan 19, 2013 - 11:23am PT
Was all there as of 1-19 at 4pm as was Silver Strand
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 19, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
There's a lot of confusion about how many ascents it's had. I just read a link which said a few dozen ( http://rockice.amgbusiness.com/lates-news/widows-tears-rare-repeat ), but I've heard estimates of less than 15 before this season.

I know Chappy did it twice, Dan has done it, Dale and Ron. Seems like Dean's done it. Mark would know better about the 70's and 80's.

It is a good question, and ascents should be as memorable as they are rare.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Jan 19, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
I'm still trying to figure out who all has done it this year?

Jason and Greg - 1/3
Kim and Rick - 1/12
Brian and Paul - 1/13
Kevin, Trevor and Kurt - 1/15
The Rangers/Ed ???



Rock and Ice blerb on Mountain Project fails to mention all the parties before Kevin, Trevor and Rick, especially Greg and Jasons
WBraun

climber
Jan 19, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
The rangers had to divert over to the Silver Strand instead because Kevin, Trevor and Kurt were ahead of them at the base that day ......

Norwegian

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
Jan 19, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
dude.
i want.
the life.
of brian.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 19, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
Hey Werner, do you know anything about that rope that Kim and Rick dropped? They already have sacrificed it to the gods but I thought it would be cool if they could get it back.
WBraun

climber
Jan 19, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
Wayno, I know nothing about it, sorry .....
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 19, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
Werner, is that how you get now ropes ?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 20, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
!I believe the rope is still up there coiled at the first belay.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 10:59pm PT
'Pass the Pitons' Pete and all-

The World Waterfall Database shows great details for the surrounding area:

http://www.worldwaterfalldatabase.com/waterfall/Widows-Tears-46/

Cheers, Brian
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 11, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
http://mammutathleteteam.blogspot.com/2013/01/widows-tears_21.html

Didn't see this mentioned in the thread yet.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Feb 11, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
hey you guys might be interested in this route. It is located about 3 hours north of vancouver and rises straight out of Seton lake. Literally you have to step out of the boat with crampons and tools ready for action!

there are two routes here - both continuous flows of about 9 pitches, ...
there are two routes here - both continuous flows of about 9 pitches, going at grade 4+ to 5.
Credit: Bruce Kay


They are measured at 420 meters in elevation gain, which equals 1386 ft by my calculation. There is at least one other route in the Bridge river zone (the gift) that is similar in length, continuity, difficulty etc. Of course there are longer ones in the Rockies like Slipstream and polar circus. At least I think they are longer. Also back east is Le Pomme Dor in Quebec, maybe the most beautiful continuously long waterfall route in north America.

ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
has anyone climbed that Seton Lake flow?

not to be a doubter, but it sure doesn't look like 1,000+ feet long
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
Feb 14, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
I really,--really,,hate california,,,blue sky ice,,bikinis,all in one state,,
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jul 14, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Bruce Kay - has anyone climbed that Seton flow and if so, when?
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
Jul 15, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
^^^
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=872171

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1254962&tn=37

http://westcoastice.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/new_climbs_upto2012-v7.pdf

ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jul 15, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
wow! great info in those links -- thanks

Bruce was also featured on the cover of the 2009 CAJ, climbing a new ice route called Piss and Vinegar at Seton Lake. WI5,9 pitches,420m or 1,400 feet. Being in Canada, and located on a lake, access was of course by canoe.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
Hi Dan,

Happy Holidays! Any updates on the conditions there in the valley?

Cheers, Brian
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Jan 14, 2014 - 08:34am PT
A bump for last years best ice route
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 14, 2014 - 11:25am PT
Do you want to make me jealous again? Hope this thing comes in in the next few years!!! Would love to climb it, looks super good.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Jan 14, 2014 - 11:59am PT
F!$#@n bad ass fellas? Thanks for the TR and pics looks really awesome!! nice bump
Guck

Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 14, 2014 - 12:53pm PT
Two of the other parties that went up the WT in January 2013 are Greg Loniewski and Jason Torlano (2013-01-03), followed by Florian Drlfer and X (I forgot his partner's name) about a week later. Greg and Jason made the trail back to Hwy 41.
Mustang

climber
From the wild, not the ranch
Jan 14, 2014 - 09:55pm PT
Couple of Larry's for sure.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
May 2, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
BBST. Purdy pictures.
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