Surviving Sedona.....January 8th is my new second birthday


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Trad climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 10:35am PT

Glad you're still here.


Trad climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 10:37am PT
I'm glad you are ok!

I've seen a lot of slings in AZ that look shiny white and good to go- until you look at the inside of the knot and realize that the webbing was not originally white.

I think the moral of this one is that if you are going to rap off a single piece of webbing use your own fresh strand.

Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Jan 10, 2013 - 10:38am PT
Scary shit! Glad you didn't end up needing a fundraiser!

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jan 10, 2013 - 10:39am PT
Hey Donini glad you're all right, that is SCARY! Happy Second Birthday!

Trad climber
SF Bay Area
Jan 10, 2013 - 10:41am PT
Happy Second Birthday, Mr Donini!! *^_^*

Glad that you are OK!!!!! *phew*

New second birthday...... Does that mean there is an "old" one?! O.o

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Jan 10, 2013 - 10:42am PT
Good story and even better news, Jim.

So, has anyone ever even seen webbing that color? I haven't. Which, if true, would mean that the color was totally bleached out from sun exposure.

I hate old webbing, so I always carry a few knotted runners to leave behind at rap anchors.

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Jan 10, 2013 - 11:13am PT
Scary stuff. What a gift is this life, and your ability to appreciate it!
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 11:24am PT
tied slings are not the must have item they used to be, but I always have a couple on me. Thanks for the reminder, glad you are fine.

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jan 10, 2013 - 11:27am PT
Ugh! That damn UV and nylon just don't get along! Glad you had the 2nd thought to backup on the knotted sling!
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
-A race of corn eaters
Jan 10, 2013 - 11:37am PT

Your OP didn't say, did you test the system before taking off?

Anyhow, happy second birthday!

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Jan 10, 2013 - 11:39am PT
Goose bumps. Blargh.

Happy birthday!
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 10, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
Very glad that Jim is AOK, and looking forward to seeing him at the FaceLift. We've both got the Third Pillar on our list.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jan 10, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
Glad you are still with us Mr.Donini.
Thanks for sharing an important lesson,
Back up yur raps people!

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Jan 10, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
Holy moley! That is terrifying! Congratulations on surviving.

Mountain climber
Northern surly
Jan 10, 2013 - 12:11pm PT

One more story, I was in the Wadi Rum, Jordan, guiding a regular client and we were descending off a typical scary run out climb.

Well, on the final rap to the ground, I came across a fixed anchor with a sling around a pancake shaped block, the sling looked good and as an after thought I placed a stopper in some crap rock to back it up.

Well, my client wasn't the most savvy guy and I clipped him in first and myself below on the rope, so the tension of my weight would keep him fixed and I could give him a fireman's belay on the ground.

I leaned back and the sling broke, sending both me and my client into free fall, we both were stopped by the bad stopper.

The sling was place a week before by a French guide. Close call for sure.

EDIT, The Wadi Rum, is crap sandstone for the most part.
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
A friend of mine had a similar closr call in j tree in nov. Had just done some obscure route and was about to lower off the fixed sling anchor. The thought crossed his mind to test it.....and the sling ripped like tissue paper. He is from ireland too, where we don't really have fixed anchors. Sometimes annoying, but it negates this particular hazard.

Glad you're ok.

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jan 10, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
Yikes! Yet another tale of the times we came this close to a meaningless too-early end. Glad you're still here to tell it.

Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
Jan 10, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
Donini truly does have a climbing "6th sense"...I'm not sure I would have clipped the second sling, especially since you said you didn't think it looked all that good!
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jan 10, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
Thank you for this cautionary tale

...and that you are able to relate it to us.

Mountain climber
where the wild things are
Jan 10, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
this gave me the chills. very, very glad you're safe and okay, mr. donini
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