Half Dome in a Day Beta/Strategy/Tips???


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Messages 41 - 47 of total 47 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Trad climber
Feb 25, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
We took a rest day to suss out the approach/descent of the 'death slabs' to get it totally wired. Carried day packs full of beer and lunch meat for simulation. Descended in the early evening just to see what it was like in case we epic'd or got stalled on the route. That was the best thing we could have done to prep for the route I think. The slabs aren't that bad once you get your line dialed.

The route is pretty straight forward. We were both reasonbly solid on Valley .11 and fit. We got a very late start and made it to the top pitches at dark trading pitch for pitch. Any of the really hard climbing as well as the zigzags were chill to french free. The chimneys were rad, featured and well protected. Lots of fixed gear on the whole route where you might want it. I thought the top few free/aid pitches were tricky route finding(by headlamp) due to the different bolt lines and such. That little wide bit after T-God ledge will wake you up. Short-fixing may be helpful to conserve energy if 5.10 is your free climbing limit?

I'd say for training, get the approach/descent dialed, go do EB El Cap as fast as you can and go practice your french free on the Rostrum(w/o getting in anyones way ;-). No sweat...you got it!

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
Success!!! We did it in a day! Not a speed record by any means and one of the longest/most strenuous days I've ever had, but a great time. Thanks to everyone for the great beta and suggestions on strategy, training, etc...
Credit: ROtotheC
Credit: ROtotheC

Sep 27, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
not much of a tr....

Sep 27, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
not much of a tr....

I think those smiles tell the story.

But a TR would be cool.


Sep 27, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
i grin like that every picture I'm in...supposed to help you live longer

Ice climber
Soon 2B Flagstaff
Sep 27, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
Good job. Glad you got it done.
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Sep 27, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
The pics do tell the story. Good job boys!

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