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Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
30 January 2013
Real summery at Sunny Delight today. A couple pics...
30jan2013, from base of Sunny Delight. <br/>
Jobs Peak and Jobs Sister and...
30jan2013, from base of Sunny Delight.
Jobs Peak and Jobs Sister and Freel in the distance.
Credit: Footloose

Great workout across 5 sends, shoulders are wasted, some winter fat burned. The vision: the Hulk of course.

One more:
30jan2013, from Sunny Delight, Carson Valley Sentinel. <br/>
Note the swee...
30jan2013, from Sunny Delight, Carson Valley Sentinel.
Note the sweet line on James Canyon North Ridge, it's a fave, woohoo!

Credit: Footloose

Looking forward to your visit, Ron! Just give me some notice so I can set it up on my end. Next bluebird sky after tomorrow I'll be game. I'll lead! :)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
Dudes/Dudettes,friday you choose
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
For completeness, here's the latest revision for Sunny Delight.
Here's the revised standard of Sunny Delight.  This revision protects ...
Here's the revised standard of Sunny Delight. This revision protects the best at 5.10. Rectangle in red (four feet in length) shows location of thin flake on Sunny Delight that is potentially dangerous if yarded on.
Credit: Footloose

Route now protects bomber bottom to top. Good to know as the second 5.10b crux is just after the "On the Lamb" section at the very top before topping out. Plus, no worries, as a fall here is overhanging, woohoo!

Sunny Delight is perfect for rope solo workouts in the sun.  This phot...
Sunny Delight is perfect for rope solo workouts in the sun. This photo taken at about 60'. 25 more to go. Belay station today 1 feb 2013 under bluebird skies was about 70F, rock about 90.
Credit: Footloose

Alright, maybe TMI. :)

Happy climbing!
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 10, 2013 - 03:55pm PT
Well, I went out to try this thing. Probably should have stayed home. Got a cold or something that's got me coughing up a storm. So the hike up was pleasant, even though I think it about killed me.

Lots of that rock up there reminds me of the biscuit part of a McDonalds sausage mcmuffin in its crumbing consistency, and it took me a long while to convince myself I actually wanted to try leading this solo.

Built a little anchor and got all suited up and headed up. Made it to (drumroll please...) the first overhang. Thought I oughta place a piece in case I peeled off, so reached up on top of the block and tilted my head back to take a look at what I wanted to place and where.

The world spun violently, and for a second I though the block peeled off. It didn't, and neither did I, but panic set in anyway. Apparently this is a random bout of vertigo that set in on me last weekend, when I nearly pitched headlong into the wall, then the toilet in the middle of the night. Anyway, this new fun condition hit me at random for a few days, then eased, so I thought I was good to go. Nope.

After gathering my wits enough to retreat, I packed up shop and bailed. The vertigo thing hit me again when I leaned forward to chuck the gear in the truck. Whoo boy, this is going to be all kinds of fun if it continues.

Anyway, one of these days when I either recover or learn to deal with it, it'd be nice to go back and send it. Nice area. Looks like the overhang on the right would be fun too, maybe a bit wider than fists? Dunno. Thanks for posting up anyway.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 11:21am PT
Hillrat, it was cloudy, windy and cold as hell yesterday! Give it a go on a sunny day when there's little or no wind, that's when it's completely magical in winter, spring. And of course, needless to say, when you're not sick.

The Sentinel formation is surrounded by choss granite. But you probably noticed the route itself is clean and solid not unlike the classics at Woodfords. That's it's charm. Vertical. Clean cracks. Golden knobs, etc..

See you out there!


PS

I'm surprised you didn't just TR solo it. To lead solo it, that's ballsy!

It would be gorgeous today at 42F in CC. :)


PSS After lengthy deliberation, I ended up trundling that beautiful detached flake shown on the previous page, it would've been just too threatening to the belayer below.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:32am PT
Heh, yeah. not ideal yesterday. Sun came out and warmed it up nicely while I was there. Looks like you put some effort into cleaning it, and yeah, the route itself is much better than the rock nearby.
Thot about the TRsolo, but after the random spinning world thing it was just time to go. Definitely coming back. Looks like potential to clean up a few other piles nearby too.
ronj

climber
Feb 12, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
I look at this forum on a fairly regular basis however this is my first post. I thought I should take the time to register and post a reply because my wife, a couple of friends, and I would never have had the awesome day yesterday out at Sunny Delight if not for Supertopo, and Bill’s enthusiasm and help.

Dave
Dave
Credit: ronj
Dave again
Dave again
Credit: ronj
Dave on Sunny Delight
Dave on Sunny Delight
Credit: ronj



Bill, it was great running into you while we were out there. As I said, we’re all beginners so your help was invaluable. Thanks again.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 08:27am PT
Ron,

Just noticed your post, don't know how I missed it earlier! Glad you guys had a good time and it was fun running into you all.

I owe you 5 bucks, lol! :)
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 16, 2013 - 08:29am PT
Planning to head out this morning and give it another run...
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 16, 2013 - 08:31am PT
That looks pretty good.I'll have to check it out, Fortress today have fun!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 16, 2013 - 08:38am PT
Hey Bill, here is a photo of a Rawl non stainless bolt I installed about twenty years ago. I also pulled a bolt that I installed at lower mayhem cove that looked very similar.(bomber) I don't know what the cone looks like but the plated and stainless 5 piece use the same cone so....
Plated Rawl &#40;powerbolt&#41;
Plated Rawl (powerbolt)
Credit: kennyt
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 16, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
Went out. Still not well (coughing and such); but no wild spinning worlds this time. Took enough gear to sew it up like a knitting convention. Set of stiff friends, some mixed miscellaneous fleabay cams, and a set of oldschool hexes, just for kicks. Plugged a couple friends in, set out determined to send it.

Failed. Hung on the first overhang again trying to convince myself the yellow metolius would hold. Even got my feet around. Chickened out and climbed down. Twice.

Hiked around to the top to set up for TRsolo. What's that thing to the left of SunnyD? Flung my rope off there. Oops. Sh#t, Pulled it up. Went back down.

Reset anchor, slung the damn block AND plugged in the yellow metolius. Nailed it this time! Well, that part anyway. Flailed my way about halfway up in the wide, to the big block there. Hung around trying to calm the pump, then tried to get past the block where it eases off a bit. Nope.

Plugged a 8 or 9 hex just at the top of the block, which slipped in and fit like a Powerball winner with a high-dollar hooker. (I really wouldn't know about those things.) Then learned that the Silent Partner is much easier to lower yerself with if you do a leg wrap or two. Saw one of your "buzzards" do a low pass, swear I heard the bird snicker.

Walked back to the top, tossed the rope off the right bolts this time, and cleaned up my act. Alcohol hand sanitizer really stings.

All said and done, I suck! But I made it past the first overhang on suspect terrain, rope solo, with a device I'm not completely comfortable with, at what's probably my lead limit, and halfway or so up the route. Without falling, without dying. So... I feel pretty good about it.
Thanks!
photo not found
Missing photo ID#289961
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
Kenny, interesting pic. The comparative "useful life" of bolts - cs and ss - in situ in the sierra - has been on my mind this year. That one looks good to go for another 25 - 50.



Hillrat, awesome post, pic! So I think you're 0 for 2 out there now as far as sunny skies, LOL, correct me if i'm wrong. Sort of ironic. Eh?

Anyways, next time you can go when it's sunny - to catch Sunny Delight in all its glory, of course - let's get together and we'll do the whole shebang. Many times over for a good adventure and workout!

Climb on! :)



Edit to add, 21 Feb 2013:

The Gold Wall (variation on Sunny Delight) on TR at 5.10b was sent today. T'was about time. :)
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 22, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
From a year ago,

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 23, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Ahhh lookie there, a vid of Deadmans rap! Nice solo Moose!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
Happy to report...

Sunny Delight's had another cleaning. This time attention was given to any and all looseness everywhere on the whole face, including secondary even tertiary holds, that climbers might use. (In the past attn was given primarily if not only to the most popular sequences on route proper.)

Reminder, if you'd like to challenge yourself on the Gold Wall variation...
Credit: Footloose

the weak corner is OFF (it's hidden behind foreground rock in the pic), lol. (You can take the climber out of the gym but you can't take the gym out of the climber, :) )



P.S. First onsight FA of Sunny Delight still awaits. Go get it!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 24, 2013 - 05:46pm PT
ill get to that climb soon! prolly hang all over it!
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Feb 24, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
Hey Bill. Where do you park for the approach. I'm a dinosaur so verbal directions are preferable to gps coordinates.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
Hi Rick, here you go...
Credit: Footloose

When you can make it down, I'll give you the show n tell. Hey if you bring Ron then I can take pictures! Anytime after 11a this time of year is best. Days are getting longer of course, today we were there till 4:30p.

PS I'd love to see YOU get the Onsight FA. :)


PSS

Rick, have you ever been out to the Incredible Hulk? Any interest there later this summer?

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/incredible-hulk/105852180
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Feb 24, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
Bill,
Thanks for the map. Looks like a long direct slog to the crag. I'm afraid i won't be the one to get the first onsite lead-you're thinking of the Rick from 30 years ago. Anyway i'd like to have flail at it on top rope, perhaps this week when my daughter gets to town.I'll call before heading down if we go. I gather their is a 5.7 there to? Pat might be in shape for the Hulk this summer.
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