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Messages 21 - 40 of total 62 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
Hillrat, it was cloudy, windy and cold as hell yesterday! Give it a go on a sunny day when there's little or no wind, that's when it's completely magical in winter, spring. And of course, needless to say, when you're not sick.

The Sentinel formation is surrounded by choss granite. But you probably noticed the route itself is clean and solid not unlike the classics at Woodfords. That's it's charm. Vertical. Clean cracks. Golden knobs, etc..

See you out there!


PS

I'm surprised you didn't just TR solo it. To lead solo it, that's ballsy!

It would be gorgeous today at 42F in CC. :)


PSS After lengthy deliberation, I ended up trundling that beautiful detached flake shown on the previous page, it would've been just too threatening to the belayer below.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 11, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
Heh, yeah. not ideal yesterday. Sun came out and warmed it up nicely while I was there. Looks like you put some effort into cleaning it, and yeah, the route itself is much better than the rock nearby.
Thot about the TRsolo, but after the random spinning world thing it was just time to go. Definitely coming back. Looks like potential to clean up a few other piles nearby too.
ronj

climber
Feb 13, 2013 - 12:41am PT
I look at this forum on a fairly regular basis however this is my first post. I thought I should take the time to register and post a reply because my wife, a couple of friends, and I would never have had the awesome day yesterday out at Sunny Delight if not for Supertopo, and Bill’s enthusiasm and help.




Bill, it was great running into you while we were out there. As I said, we’re all beginners so your help was invaluable. Thanks again.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 11:27am PT
Ron,

Just noticed your post, don't know how I missed it earlier! Glad you guys had a good time and it was fun running into you all.

I owe you 5 bucks, lol! :)
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 16, 2013 - 11:29am PT
Planning to head out this morning and give it another run...
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 16, 2013 - 11:31am PT
That looks pretty good.I'll have to check it out, Fortress today have fun!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 16, 2013 - 11:38am PT
Hey Bill, here is a photo of a Rawl non stainless bolt I installed about twenty years ago. I also pulled a bolt that I installed at lower mayhem cove that looked very similar.(bomber) I don't know what the cone looks like but the plated and stainless 5 piece use the same cone so....
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 16, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
Went out. Still not well (coughing and such); but no wild spinning worlds this time. Took enough gear to sew it up like a knitting convention. Set of stiff friends, some mixed miscellaneous fleabay cams, and a set of oldschool hexes, just for kicks. Plugged a couple friends in, set out determined to send it.

Failed. Hung on the first overhang again trying to convince myself the yellow metolius would hold. Even got my feet around. Chickened out and climbed down. Twice.

Hiked around to the top to set up for TRsolo. What's that thing to the left of SunnyD? Flung my rope off there. Oops. Sh#t, Pulled it up. Went back down.

Reset anchor, slung the damn block AND plugged in the yellow metolius. Nailed it this time! Well, that part anyway. Flailed my way about halfway up in the wide, to the big block there. Hung around trying to calm the pump, then tried to get past the block where it eases off a bit. Nope.

Plugged a 8 or 9 hex just at the top of the block, which slipped in and fit like a Powerball winner with a high-dollar hooker. (I really wouldn't know about those things.) Then learned that the Silent Partner is much easier to lower yerself with if you do a leg wrap or two. Saw one of your "buzzards" do a low pass, swear I heard the bird snicker.

Walked back to the top, tossed the rope off the right bolts this time, and cleaned up my act. Alcohol hand sanitizer really stings.

All said and done, I suck! But I made it past the first overhang on suspect terrain, rope solo, with a device I'm not completely comfortable with, at what's probably my lead limit, and halfway or so up the route. Without falling, without dying. So... I feel pretty good about it.
Thanks!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
Kenny, interesting pic. The comparative "useful life" of bolts - cs and ss - in situ in the sierra - has been on my mind this year. That one looks good to go for another 25 - 50.



Hillrat, awesome post, pic! So I think you're 0 for 2 out there now as far as sunny skies, LOL, correct me if i'm wrong. Sort of ironic. Eh?

Anyways, next time you can go when it's sunny - to catch Sunny Delight in all its glory, of course - let's get together and we'll do the whole shebang. Many times over for a good adventure and workout!

Climb on! :)



Edit to add, 21 Feb 2013:

The Gold Wall (variation on Sunny Delight) on TR at 5.10b was sent today. T'was about time. :)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
Happy to report...

Sunny Delight's had another cleaning. This time attention was given to any and all looseness everywhere on the whole face, including secondary even tertiary holds, that climbers might use. (In the past attn was given primarily if not only to the most popular sequences on route proper.)

Reminder, if you'd like to challenge yourself on the Gold Wall variation...

the weak corner is OFF (it's hidden behind foreground rock in the pic), lol. (You can take the climber out of the gym but you can't take the gym out of the climber, :) )



P.S. First onsight FA of Sunny Delight still awaits. Go get it!
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Feb 24, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
Hey Bill. Where do you park for the approach. I'm a dinosaur so verbal directions are preferable to gps coordinates.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
Hi Rick, here you go...

When you can make it down, I'll give you the show n tell. Hey if you bring Ron then I can take pictures! Anytime after 11a this time of year is best. Days are getting longer of course, today we were there till 4:30p.

PS I'd love to see YOU get the Onsight FA. :)


PSS

Rick, have you ever been out to the Incredible Hulk? Any interest there later this summer?

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/incredible-hulk/105852180
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Feb 25, 2013 - 01:20am PT
Bill,
Thanks for the map. Looks like a long direct slog to the crag. I'm afraid i won't be the one to get the first onsite lead-you're thinking of the Rick from 30 years ago. Anyway i'd like to have flail at it on top rope, perhaps this week when my daughter gets to town.I'll call before heading down if we go. I gather their is a 5.7 there to? Pat might be in shape for the Hulk this summer.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 25, 2013 - 01:56am PT
A bit south, but the current webcam image from Topaz Lake. Having made quite a few trips past this area, it really appeals to me - especially now having seen a boulder stash, and cliffs to the west through a tight canyon along 395.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
Don't forget the benefits...

... at the 30 minute approach crags that you often don't get at the roadside crags.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Hey supertopo, any Carson Valley loco want to climb today around 12 to 1pm, for a couple of hours? Bluebird skies today!

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=39.09090021130995&lon=-119.81964111328125
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Mar 9, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
We're game! Geez... a day in the sun for once? I don't know...
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
Hillrat,

Good job on Sunny D today!
Hope you all had a great time! :)




Edit to add 10 march:

Cool pics below!

Maya, if you become a climber, you gotta give Sunny Delight a go sometime,
and then post to this thread, hahaha!
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Mar 9, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
Sunny Delight... The name rings true!

Footloose, it was great to meet you and hope we get a chance to climb again. What a joy to finally make the top of the climb, and we had a great time out there. That was the first hike with the kid in the pack, and about the longest my better half has been on in quite a while. So just getting out was good for us, and making the top was even better. Anyone in the area ought to give it a shot if you can, and meet up with Footloose too.

Here's a couple pictures for fun.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2013 - 10:53am PT
P.S.

Whoever gets the first onsight lead of Sunny Delight, please post up.

For history sake. :)
Messages 21 - 40 of total 62 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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