Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 9, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
For 9 Jan 2013...
Sunny Delight Southwest at Carson Valley Sentinel is a fine local experience if your aim is a quick workout in the sun, for example, on toprope solo. Under blue skies in the winter it is hard to beat as it angles under a full sun. Dinosaur Rock, in the winter, so sorry. :)
Approach to Carson Valley Sentinel, from Jacks Valley Road. 9 Jan 2013.
Credit: Footloose
Overlooking Carson Valley from the base of Sunny Delight. 9 Jan 2013.
Credit: Footloose
A storm was supposed to move in today, so I thought I'd get a mid-morning lick in. Arrival: 0 mph wind. Departure two hours later: 60 mph wind! How cool, mighty wind experience. When it doesn't kill you, it makes you stronger! :)
Sunny Delight Southwest. If you know where the secret holds are, 5.9. Otherwise 5.10. Topropeable. 85 feet. Excellent for rope solo workouts in Winter. Several variations keep it fresh.
Credit: Footloose
Funny thing. Though Sunny Delight is 5.8 or 5.9, I bet it would challenge a few 5.10 climbers for the Onsight. :)
A pair of predators keeping sentinel. Overlooking the Carson Valley.
Credit: Footloose
I had company today, a couple of ravens or something.
Company at Carson Valley sentinel. One of two.
Credit: Footloose
So if you're ever in Carson Valley in winter on a sunny day, it might be worth your while to check out the Sentinel. It's off Jacks Valley Road at the north end of the valley, just past the elementary school on the right.
Happy climbing!
Edit to add:
From earlier in the season...
Red is Sunny Delight. Well protected. Yellow is 5.10d variation.
Nice Foot! Yes, that is the winter side of clear creek lol! Of course you get eiger practice in on the other side now, and no one around..
COOL "buzzards" though!
how cool is that eh- it was one of our favorites there. has everything, crack, face pro and bolts. The fisrt three bolts on color me gone showed up sometime after the original ascent and were 1/4 inchers which then were replaced by someone else with the 3/8 gear.
The top bolts are where the left seam joins color me gone for the top bucket fest.
Its a good lead for your first 5.9 cus it is a 5.9..;-)
Moose, would you believe there was a dirt ledge complete with sage brush behind you in the pic at the base! NONE of that rock was hardly exposed when we were doing the fas there. that is all from climber traffic wearing it to the naked rock..
heaven help me catchin the artists.. The ONLY graffiti on it for decades was the original white peace sign at the start of deadmans rappel. That was cool,, the other crap KNOTT! ;-)
I am not sure, I just climb over graffiti. I don't think I follow any particular line. Feels like 5.9+ start. I like this particular wall because I can TR solo. It can be climbed as easy as 5.7 or as a solid 5.11, don't you think? Good workout.
Hey Footloose,
I live in Mottsville and have often looked up at the Sentinel on my way to Carson. I asked a friend (climbing partner who grew up in G-ville) about it and he said it's a choss pile and rattlesnake haven.
To me it looks like a winter work out haven! I'd like to check it out sometime. Care to show me around???
Friedo,,Not the last time i was up there - couple of months back.. If there is, it would be just before Dino as it is state property to less than 1/4 mile from dino.. I heard such a rumor before but ive seen no gate..
the deal with clear creek road is that its state property to about 300 yards to the east of dino, and then because neither the county or the state wanted the road or the costs of maintenance it is a private residential road from the end of the state road to the top. As new homes showed up there over the years ,, more and more posted signs and reduced access of any and all activities has been experienced. Between those and tribal lands the upper canyon is virtually owned. It is also one of the last GREAT FIRE TRAPS of the carson front range, and when it goes, it will be ugly.
Does PA Corner still have that piton? As I remember, it was not needed.
I guess I'll have to give Dino another go one of these days. Crags like that make a great hang for the locals. Too bad the yokels are tagging the rock.
Yeah jeebs,, i was gonna wrangle it out the last time i was there, but it got COLD on us so we booked. I suppose its nice to have over head protection for the trav over to the ledge and anchors,, but sheeesh.. ;-)
There's an easy 20 minute approach through easy terrain. (Did I mention easy?!)
I love to show n tell. When the weather's supposed to be gorgeous and any of you guys can make it up (or down), shoot me an email, we'll go.
Of course with a toprope setup, there are many variations you can do on this crag, easier or harder, making it exceptional for a workout. The OW crack heading off at 11 o'clock goes 5.7 or so.
It's pump-worthy and sun-worthy for sure, great local prep for Woodfords and beyond later!
Friedo, if you're in Mottsville, we'll have to meet up for Woodfords, etc, as well. I'm over here in Jacks Valley.
Ron, good eye there. I haven't. It's waiting for you!
Actually I'll probably get around to it one of these days. Between the Jobs Peak project and the workouts in the sun, just haven't gotten around to it yet with an advanced (trusted) belayer.
Or maybe I'll just run a directional top rope to it. (There I could probably practice some "stacked butterflies" eh? - one of msidden's specialties, ha!)
In the picture above, there's another 5.10 crack (unmarked) on the face that's recessed to the left. See the crack there? It's pretty fun, too, for laps when you have a belay.
Footloose,
I climbed at Woodfords a lot this summer. Had several days out there with KennyT. We should definitely meet up for a Sentinel sesh and get acquainted. You in Kenny???
Tomorrow 30th is supposed to be warm and sunny, I have 2 hours to spend at Carson Valley Sentinel if anyone would like an introduction. I'm still looking for more consensus on grade and rating on Sunny Delight.
Email me if you are interested in a show n tell. I've only got three hours (2+ 1) but it's most excellent for top rope solo and workout.
An unusual formation a third the way up, I'm debating whether or not it should be trundled. It's a beautiful hold, part of an exquisite sequence. But the concern is somebody will over-yard on it and it will let loose.
Credit: Footloose
Edit:
This formation is still on Sunny Delight, I'm still debating whether or not to trundle it as part of cleaning up the route. Thankfully it's not necessary, the route will still go at the same grade without it.
When you're ready give a call, I climb there regularly.
Ron, get it together, you and Rick, and let me know. Can't wait to meet Rick as well. You'll enjoy it I think espec this time of year when the weather's good.
Turns out, those buzzards are nesting, getting ready to, I'm pretty sure, on the next crag higher up the mountain. I'll be doing my part to keep an eye on them as the season comes into play and to try to keep them safe. Pretty cool to have them there.
30 January 2013
Real summery at Sunny Delight today. A couple pics...
30jan2013, from base of Sunny Delight.
Jobs Peak and Jobs Sister and Freel in the distance.
Credit: Footloose
Great workout across 5 sends, shoulders are wasted, some winter fat burned. The vision: the Hulk of course.
One more:
30jan2013, from Sunny Delight, Carson Valley Sentinel.
Note the sweet line on James Canyon North Ridge, it's a fave, woohoo!
Credit: Footloose
Looking forward to your visit, Ron! Just give me some notice so I can set it up on my end. Next bluebird sky after tomorrow I'll be game. I'll lead! :)
For completeness, here's the latest revision for Sunny Delight.
Here's the revised standard of Sunny Delight. This revision protects the best at 5.10. Rectangle in red (four feet in length) shows location of thin flake on Sunny Delight that is potentially dangerous if yarded on.
Credit: Footloose
Route now protects bomber bottom to top. Good to know as the second 5.10b crux is just after the "On the Lamb" section at the very top before topping out. Plus, no worries, as a fall here is overhanging, woohoo!
Sunny Delight is perfect for rope solo workouts in the sun. This photo taken at about 60'. 25 more to go. Belay station today 1 feb 2013 under bluebird skies was about 70F, rock about 90.
Well, I went out to try this thing. Probably should have stayed home. Got a cold or something that's got me coughing up a storm. So the hike up was pleasant, even though I think it about killed me.
Lots of that rock up there reminds me of the biscuit part of a McDonalds sausage mcmuffin in its crumbing consistency, and it took me a long while to convince myself I actually wanted to try leading this solo.
Built a little anchor and got all suited up and headed up. Made it to (drumroll please...) the first overhang. Thought I oughta place a piece in case I peeled off, so reached up on top of the block and tilted my head back to take a look at what I wanted to place and where.
The world spun violently, and for a second I though the block peeled off. It didn't, and neither did I, but panic set in anyway. Apparently this is a random bout of vertigo that set in on me last weekend, when I nearly pitched headlong into the wall, then the toilet in the middle of the night. Anyway, this new fun condition hit me at random for a few days, then eased, so I thought I was good to go. Nope.
After gathering my wits enough to retreat, I packed up shop and bailed. The vertigo thing hit me again when I leaned forward to chuck the gear in the truck. Whoo boy, this is going to be all kinds of fun if it continues.
Anyway, one of these days when I either recover or learn to deal with it, it'd be nice to go back and send it. Nice area. Looks like the overhang on the right would be fun too, maybe a bit wider than fists? Dunno. Thanks for posting up anyway.
Hillrat, it was cloudy, windy and cold as hell yesterday! Give it a go on a sunny day when there's little or no wind, that's when it's completely magical in winter, spring. And of course, needless to say, when you're not sick.
The Sentinel formation is surrounded by choss granite. But you probably noticed the route itself is clean and solid not unlike the classics at Woodfords. That's it's charm. Vertical. Clean cracks. Golden knobs, etc..
See you out there!
PS
I'm surprised you didn't just TR solo it. To lead solo it, that's ballsy!
It would be gorgeous today at 42F in CC. :)
PSS After lengthy deliberation, I ended up trundling that beautiful detached flake shown on the previous page, it would've been just too threatening to the belayer below.
Heh, yeah. not ideal yesterday. Sun came out and warmed it up nicely while I was there. Looks like you put some effort into cleaning it, and yeah, the route itself is much better than the rock nearby.
Thot about the TRsolo, but after the random spinning world thing it was just time to go. Definitely coming back. Looks like potential to clean up a few other piles nearby too.
I look at this forum on a fairly regular basis however this is my first post. I thought I should take the time to register and post a reply because my wife, a couple of friends, and I would never have had the awesome day yesterday out at Sunny Delight if not for Supertopo, and Bill’s enthusiasm and help.
Dave
Credit: ronj
Dave again
Credit: ronj
Dave on Sunny Delight
Credit: ronj
Bill, it was great running into you while we were out there. As I said, we’re all beginners so your help was invaluable. Thanks again.
Hey Bill, here is a photo of a Rawl non stainless bolt I installed about twenty years ago. I also pulled a bolt that I installed at lower mayhem cove that looked very similar.(bomber) I don't know what the cone looks like but the plated and stainless 5 piece use the same cone so....
Went out. Still not well (coughing and such); but no wild spinning worlds this time. Took enough gear to sew it up like a knitting convention. Set of stiff friends, some mixed miscellaneous fleabay cams, and a set of oldschool hexes, just for kicks. Plugged a couple friends in, set out determined to send it.
Failed. Hung on the first overhang again trying to convince myself the yellow metolius would hold. Even got my feet around. Chickened out and climbed down. Twice.
Hiked around to the top to set up for TRsolo. What's that thing to the left of SunnyD? Flung my rope off there. Oops. Sh#t, Pulled it up. Went back down.
Reset anchor, slung the damn block AND plugged in the yellow metolius. Nailed it this time! Well, that part anyway. Flailed my way about halfway up in the wide, to the big block there. Hung around trying to calm the pump, then tried to get past the block where it eases off a bit. Nope.
Plugged a 8 or 9 hex just at the top of the block, which slipped in and fit like a Powerball winner with a high-dollar hooker. (I really wouldn't know about those things.) Then learned that the Silent Partner is much easier to lower yerself with if you do a leg wrap or two. Saw one of your "buzzards" do a low pass, swear I heard the bird snicker.
Walked back to the top, tossed the rope off the right bolts this time, and cleaned up my act. Alcohol hand sanitizer really stings.
All said and done, I suck! But I made it past the first overhang on suspect terrain, rope solo, with a device I'm not completely comfortable with, at what's probably my lead limit, and halfway or so up the route. Without falling, without dying. So... I feel pretty good about it.
Thanks!
Kenny, interesting pic. The comparative "useful life" of bolts - cs and ss - in situ in the sierra - has been on my mind this year. That one looks good to go for another 25 - 50.
Hillrat, awesome post, pic! So I think you're 0 for 2 out there now as far as sunny skies, LOL, correct me if i'm wrong. Sort of ironic. Eh?
Anyways, next time you can go when it's sunny - to catch Sunny Delight in all its glory, of course - let's get together and we'll do the whole shebang. Many times over for a good adventure and workout!
Climb on! :)
Edit to add, 21 Feb 2013:
The Gold Wall (variation on Sunny Delight) on TR at 5.10b was sent today. T'was about time. :)
Sunny Delight's had another cleaning. This time attention was given to any and all looseness everywhere on the whole face, including secondary even tertiary holds, that climbers might use. (In the past attn was given primarily if not only to the most popular sequences on route proper.)
Reminder, if you'd like to challenge yourself on the Gold Wall variation...
Credit: Footloose
the weak corner is OFF (it's hidden behind foreground rock in the pic), lol. (You can take the climber out of the gym but you can't take the gym out of the climber, :) )
P.S. First onsight FA of Sunny Delight still awaits. Go get it!
When you can make it down, I'll give you the show n tell. Hey if you bring Ron then I can take pictures! Anytime after 11a this time of year is best. Days are getting longer of course, today we were there till 4:30p.
PS I'd love to see YOU get the Onsight FA. :)
PSS
Rick, have you ever been out to the Incredible Hulk? Any interest there later this summer?
Bill,
Thanks for the map. Looks like a long direct slog to the crag. I'm afraid i won't be the one to get the first onsite lead-you're thinking of the Rick from 30 years ago. Anyway i'd like to have flail at it on top rope, perhaps this week when my daughter gets to town.I'll call before heading down if we go. I gather their is a 5.7 there to? Pat might be in shape for the Hulk this summer.
A bit south, but the current webcam image from Topaz Lake. Having made quite a few trips past this area, it really appeals to me - especially now having seen a boulder stash, and cliffs to the west through a tight canyon along 395.
Footloose, it was great to meet you and hope we get a chance to climb again. What a joy to finally make the top of the climb, and we had a great time out there. That was the first hike with the kid in the pack, and about the longest my better half has been on in quite a while. So just getting out was good for us, and making the top was even better. Anyone in the area ought to give it a shot if you can, and meet up with Footloose too.
Having made quite a few trips past this area, it really appeals to me - especially now having seen a boulder stash, and cliffs to the west through a tight canyon along 395.
Let us know!