Your Carson Valley Report -

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 95 of total 95 in this topic
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 9, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
For 9 Jan 2013...

Sunny Delight Southwest at Carson Valley Sentinel is a fine local experience if your aim is a quick workout in the sun, for example, on toprope solo. Under blue skies in the winter it is hard to beat as it angles under a full sun. Dinosaur Rock, in the winter, so sorry. :)

Approach to Carson Valley Sentinel, from Jacks Valley Road.  9 Jan 201...
Approach to Carson Valley Sentinel, from Jacks Valley Road. 9 Jan 2013.
Credit: Footloose

Overlooking Carson Valley from the base of Sunny Delight.  9 Jan 2013.
Overlooking Carson Valley from the base of Sunny Delight. 9 Jan 2013.
Credit: Footloose

A storm was supposed to move in today, so I thought I'd get a mid-morning lick in. Arrival: 0 mph wind. Departure two hours later: 60 mph wind! How cool, mighty wind experience. When it doesn't kill you, it makes you stronger! :)
Sunny Delight Southwest. If you know where the secret holds are, 5.9. ...
Sunny Delight Southwest. If you know where the secret holds are, 5.9. Otherwise 5.10. Topropeable. 85 feet. Excellent for rope solo workouts in Winter. Several variations keep it fresh.
Credit: Footloose

Funny thing. Though Sunny Delight is 5.8 or 5.9, I bet it would challenge a few 5.10 climbers for the Onsight. :)


A pair of predators keeping sentinel.  Overlooking the Carson Valley.
A pair of predators keeping sentinel. Overlooking the Carson Valley.
Credit: Footloose

I had company today, a couple of ravens or something.
Company at Carson Valley sentinel.  One of two.
Company at Carson Valley sentinel. One of two.
Credit: Footloose


So if you're ever in Carson Valley in winter on a sunny day, it might be worth your while to check out the Sentinel. It's off Jacks Valley Road at the north end of the valley, just past the elementary school on the right.

Happy climbing!


Edit to add:
From earlier in the season...
Red is Sunny Delight.  Well protected. Yellow is 5.10d variation.
Red is Sunny Delight. Well protected. Yellow is 5.10d variation.
Credit: Footloose
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
hey there, say, footloose..thanks for the neat share...
pictures showed, too, :)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
Nice Foot! Yes, that is the winter side of clear creek lol! Of course you get eiger practice in on the other side now, and no one around..
COOL "buzzards" though!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
Dino rock about a year ago:


photo not found
Missing photo ID#283058

photo not found
Missing photo ID#283060


How are you doing Footloose?

Edit: How is the approach to Sentinel? Can I make it?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:21pm PT
Nice Moose,, "color me gone" a stellar 5.9 on dino!
little Z

Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
Footloose,

wish I was there...for the wind, for the work-out, for the Golden Eagles.

pretty cool
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
Yes, Ron. It was my first 5.9 lead in my life! My daughter was more scared than me. lol

I made it to the top.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#283065


It was cold!

photo not found
Missing photo ID#283066
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
how cool is that eh- it was one of our favorites there. has everything, crack, face pro and bolts. The fisrt three bolts on color me gone showed up sometime after the original ascent and were 1/4 inchers which then were replaced by someone else with the 3/8 gear.

The top bolts are where the left seam joins color me gone for the top bucket fest.

Its a good lead for your first 5.9 cus it is a 5.9..;-)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
Moose, would you believe there was a dirt ledge complete with sage brush behind you in the pic at the base! NONE of that rock was hardly exposed when we were doing the fas there. that is all from climber traffic wearing it to the naked rock..
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
Your paintings are still there, Ron!

photo not found
Missing photo ID#283067

photo not found
Missing photo ID#283068
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
heaven help me catchin the artists.. The ONLY graffiti on it for decades was the original white peace sign at the start of deadmans rappel. That was cool,, the other crap KNOTT! ;-)
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
...and I am sure that the white peace sign was an Indian artifact! lol
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
no,, but it was a relic of the 60s im sure ! It wasnt obnoxious like the scribble for some reason..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
Question Moose,, what do you think the first two moves are on deadmans rap are?
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 9, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
I am not sure, I just climb over graffiti. I don't think I follow any particular line. Feels like 5.9+ start. I like this particular wall because I can TR solo. It can be climbed as easy as 5.7 or as a solid 5.11, don't you think? Good workout.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 9, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
yes lots of variations exist..but following the bolts is a consensus 5.7, yet the start is obviously harder.. Always did wonder about that.
john hansen

climber
Jan 9, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
Almost positive that, that one photo is of a Golden Eagle. It is not a turkey vulture, thats for sure.

Perhaps some kind of hawk , but me thinks eagle..

Edit: looked again, thats an eagle, good company indeed.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 10, 2013 - 11:16am PT
i do believe in Foots case that was a slightly sarcastic remark about the buzzards,, as was the case with me..;-)
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jan 10, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Hey Footloose,
I live in Mottsville and have often looked up at the Sentinel on my way to Carson. I asked a friend (climbing partner who grew up in G-ville) about it and he said it's a choss pile and rattlesnake haven.

To me it looks like a winter work out haven! I'd like to check it out sometime. Care to show me around???

-Friedo
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jan 10, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Ron,
What's the deal with the access to D-Rock? I heard a while back there was a gate across the road???
The Wedge

Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
Jan 10, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
I may have to hit this place up one day in Feb.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 10, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
Friedo,,Not the last time i was up there - couple of months back.. If there is, it would be just before Dino as it is state property to less than 1/4 mile from dino.. I heard such a rumor before but ive seen no gate..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 10, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
the deal with clear creek road is that its state property to about 300 yards to the east of dino, and then because neither the county or the state wanted the road or the costs of maintenance it is a private residential road from the end of the state road to the top. As new homes showed up there over the years ,, more and more posted signs and reduced access of any and all activities has been experienced. Between those and tribal lands the upper canyon is virtually owned. It is also one of the last GREAT FIRE TRAPS of the carson front range, and when it goes, it will be ugly.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 10, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
what's up with the graffiti? somebody needs to clean that sh#t up!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 10, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
Hey Kenny I can lend you a brush ;)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 10, 2013 - 03:00pm PT
Totally possible to rent a sand blaster and clean it- you could run the hose across the creek from the parking area. the thought has crossed my mind.
msiddens

Trad climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Nice work Bill- glad to see you getting some!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 10, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
Does PA Corner still have that piton? As I remember, it was not needed.

I guess I'll have to give Dino another go one of these days. Crags like that make a great hang for the locals. Too bad the yokels are tagging the rock.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 10, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
Yeah jeebs,, i was gonna wrangle it out the last time i was there, but it got COLD on us so we booked. I suppose its nice to have over head protection for the trav over to the ledge and anchors,, but sheeesh.. ;-)

Nice new LA for anyone who wants it..
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
There's an easy 20 minute approach through easy terrain. (Did I mention easy?!)

I love to show n tell. When the weather's supposed to be gorgeous and any of you guys can make it up (or down), shoot me an email, we'll go.

Of course with a toprope setup, there are many variations you can do on this crag, easier or harder, making it exceptional for a workout. The OW crack heading off at 11 o'clock goes 5.7 or so.

It's pump-worthy and sun-worthy for sure, great local prep for Woodfords and beyond later!




Friedo, if you're in Mottsville, we'll have to meet up for Woodfords, etc, as well. I'm over here in Jacks Valley.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
have you done the crack to the right up the over hang?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
Ron, good eye there. I haven't. It's waiting for you!

Actually I'll probably get around to it one of these days. Between the Jobs Peak project and the workouts in the sun, just haven't gotten around to it yet with an advanced (trusted) belayer.

Or maybe I'll just run a directional top rope to it. (There I could probably practice some "stacked butterflies" eh? - one of msidden's specialties, ha!)

In the picture above, there's another 5.10 crack (unmarked) on the face that's recessed to the left. See the crack there? It's pretty fun, too, for laps when you have a belay.
msiddens

Trad climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
witness the fitness!
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jan 10, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
Footloose,
I climbed at Woodfords a lot this summer. Had several days out there with KennyT. We should definitely meet up for a Sentinel sesh and get acquainted. You in Kenny???
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Hi all,

Tomorrow 30th is supposed to be warm and sunny, I have 2 hours to spend at Carson Valley Sentinel if anyone would like an introduction. I'm still looking for more consensus on grade and rating on Sunny Delight.

Email me if you are interested in a show n tell. I've only got three hours (2+ 1) but it's most excellent for top rope solo and workout.
An unusual formation a third the way up, I'm debating whether or not i...
An unusual formation a third the way up, I'm debating whether or not it should be trundled. It's a beautiful hold, part of an exquisite sequence. But the concern is somebody will over-yard on it and it will let loose.
Credit: Footloose

Edit:

This formation is still on Sunny Delight, I'm still debating whether or not to trundle it as part of cleaning up the route. Thankfully it's not necessary, the route will still go at the same grade without it.
Meagher

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jan 29, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
Footloose, I can't tomorrow but would love a tour of some of these places some time. Do you go there often?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 29, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
Maybe Rick and i need to hit that little jewel you got going Foot..Better than dry tooling over on Dino now!;-)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
Meagher, good to hear!

When you're ready give a call, I climb there regularly.

Ron, get it together, you and Rick, and let me know. Can't wait to meet Rick as well. You'll enjoy it I think espec this time of year when the weather's good.

Turns out, those buzzards are nesting, getting ready to, I'm pretty sure, on the next crag higher up the mountain. I'll be doing my part to keep an eye on them as the season comes into play and to try to keep them safe. Pretty cool to have them there.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
Nesting buzzards?? Awwkkk! Yeah,, those things smell bad up close ya know! ;^)



Gonna have to check out SunnyD, and maybe re-discover the 5.8 crack/gash we did bitd- looks warm and inviting there.!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 30, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
by the way,, Freido,, pay NO attention to gate rumors up on clear creek.. It is clear sailing to Dino,, no gates, nowhere..;-)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
30 January 2013
Real summery at Sunny Delight today. A couple pics...
30jan2013, from base of Sunny Delight. <br/>
Jobs Peak and Jobs Sister and...
30jan2013, from base of Sunny Delight.
Jobs Peak and Jobs Sister and Freel in the distance.
Credit: Footloose

Great workout across 5 sends, shoulders are wasted, some winter fat burned. The vision: the Hulk of course.

One more:
30jan2013, from Sunny Delight, Carson Valley Sentinel. <br/>
Note the swee...
30jan2013, from Sunny Delight, Carson Valley Sentinel.
Note the sweet line on James Canyon North Ridge, it's a fave, woohoo!

Credit: Footloose

Looking forward to your visit, Ron! Just give me some notice so I can set it up on my end. Next bluebird sky after tomorrow I'll be game. I'll lead! :)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
Dudes/Dudettes,friday you choose
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
For completeness, here's the latest revision for Sunny Delight.
Here's the revised standard of Sunny Delight.  This revision protects ...
Here's the revised standard of Sunny Delight. This revision protects the best at 5.10. Rectangle in red (four feet in length) shows location of thin flake on Sunny Delight that is potentially dangerous if yarded on.
Credit: Footloose

Route now protects bomber bottom to top. Good to know as the second 5.10b crux is just after the "On the Lamb" section at the very top before topping out. Plus, no worries, as a fall here is overhanging, woohoo!

Sunny Delight is perfect for rope solo workouts in the sun.  This phot...
Sunny Delight is perfect for rope solo workouts in the sun. This photo taken at about 60'. 25 more to go. Belay station today 1 feb 2013 under bluebird skies was about 70F, rock about 90.
Credit: Footloose

Alright, maybe TMI. :)

Happy climbing!
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 10, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
Well, I went out to try this thing. Probably should have stayed home. Got a cold or something that's got me coughing up a storm. So the hike up was pleasant, even though I think it about killed me.

Lots of that rock up there reminds me of the biscuit part of a McDonalds sausage mcmuffin in its crumbing consistency, and it took me a long while to convince myself I actually wanted to try leading this solo.

Built a little anchor and got all suited up and headed up. Made it to (drumroll please...) the first overhang. Thought I oughta place a piece in case I peeled off, so reached up on top of the block and tilted my head back to take a look at what I wanted to place and where.

The world spun violently, and for a second I though the block peeled off. It didn't, and neither did I, but panic set in anyway. Apparently this is a random bout of vertigo that set in on me last weekend, when I nearly pitched headlong into the wall, then the toilet in the middle of the night. Anyway, this new fun condition hit me at random for a few days, then eased, so I thought I was good to go. Nope.

After gathering my wits enough to retreat, I packed up shop and bailed. The vertigo thing hit me again when I leaned forward to chuck the gear in the truck. Whoo boy, this is going to be all kinds of fun if it continues.

Anyway, one of these days when I either recover or learn to deal with it, it'd be nice to go back and send it. Nice area. Looks like the overhang on the right would be fun too, maybe a bit wider than fists? Dunno. Thanks for posting up anyway.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
Hillrat, it was cloudy, windy and cold as hell yesterday! Give it a go on a sunny day when there's little or no wind, that's when it's completely magical in winter, spring. And of course, needless to say, when you're not sick.

The Sentinel formation is surrounded by choss granite. But you probably noticed the route itself is clean and solid not unlike the classics at Woodfords. That's it's charm. Vertical. Clean cracks. Golden knobs, etc..

See you out there!


PS

I'm surprised you didn't just TR solo it. To lead solo it, that's ballsy!

It would be gorgeous today at 42F in CC. :)


PSS After lengthy deliberation, I ended up trundling that beautiful detached flake shown on the previous page, it would've been just too threatening to the belayer below.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 11, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
Heh, yeah. not ideal yesterday. Sun came out and warmed it up nicely while I was there. Looks like you put some effort into cleaning it, and yeah, the route itself is much better than the rock nearby.
Thot about the TRsolo, but after the random spinning world thing it was just time to go. Definitely coming back. Looks like potential to clean up a few other piles nearby too.
ronj

climber
Feb 13, 2013 - 12:41am PT
I look at this forum on a fairly regular basis however this is my first post. I thought I should take the time to register and post a reply because my wife, a couple of friends, and I would never have had the awesome day yesterday out at Sunny Delight if not for Supertopo, and Bills enthusiasm and help.

Dave
Dave
Credit: ronj
Dave again
Dave again
Credit: ronj
Dave on Sunny Delight
Dave on Sunny Delight
Credit: ronj



Bill, it was great running into you while we were out there. As I said, were all beginners so your help was invaluable. Thanks again.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 11:27am PT
Ron,

Just noticed your post, don't know how I missed it earlier! Glad you guys had a good time and it was fun running into you all.

I owe you 5 bucks, lol! :)
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 16, 2013 - 11:29am PT
Planning to head out this morning and give it another run...
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 16, 2013 - 11:31am PT
That looks pretty good.I'll have to check it out, Fortress today have fun!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 16, 2013 - 11:38am PT
Hey Bill, here is a photo of a Rawl non stainless bolt I installed about twenty years ago. I also pulled a bolt that I installed at lower mayhem cove that looked very similar.(bomber) I don't know what the cone looks like but the plated and stainless 5 piece use the same cone so....
Plated Rawl &#40;powerbolt&#41;
Plated Rawl (powerbolt)
Credit: kennyt
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 16, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
Went out. Still not well (coughing and such); but no wild spinning worlds this time. Took enough gear to sew it up like a knitting convention. Set of stiff friends, some mixed miscellaneous fleabay cams, and a set of oldschool hexes, just for kicks. Plugged a couple friends in, set out determined to send it.

Failed. Hung on the first overhang again trying to convince myself the yellow metolius would hold. Even got my feet around. Chickened out and climbed down. Twice.

Hiked around to the top to set up for TRsolo. What's that thing to the left of SunnyD? Flung my rope off there. Oops. Sh#t, Pulled it up. Went back down.

Reset anchor, slung the damn block AND plugged in the yellow metolius. Nailed it this time! Well, that part anyway. Flailed my way about halfway up in the wide, to the big block there. Hung around trying to calm the pump, then tried to get past the block where it eases off a bit. Nope.

Plugged a 8 or 9 hex just at the top of the block, which slipped in and fit like a Powerball winner with a high-dollar hooker. (I really wouldn't know about those things.) Then learned that the Silent Partner is much easier to lower yerself with if you do a leg wrap or two. Saw one of your "buzzards" do a low pass, swear I heard the bird snicker.

Walked back to the top, tossed the rope off the right bolts this time, and cleaned up my act. Alcohol hand sanitizer really stings.

All said and done, I suck! But I made it past the first overhang on suspect terrain, rope solo, with a device I'm not completely comfortable with, at what's probably my lead limit, and halfway or so up the route. Without falling, without dying. So... I feel pretty good about it.
Thanks!
photo not found
Missing photo ID#289961
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
Kenny, interesting pic. The comparative "useful life" of bolts - cs and ss - in situ in the sierra - has been on my mind this year. That one looks good to go for another 25 - 50.



Hillrat, awesome post, pic! So I think you're 0 for 2 out there now as far as sunny skies, LOL, correct me if i'm wrong. Sort of ironic. Eh?

Anyways, next time you can go when it's sunny - to catch Sunny Delight in all its glory, of course - let's get together and we'll do the whole shebang. Many times over for a good adventure and workout!

Climb on! :)



Edit to add, 21 Feb 2013:

The Gold Wall (variation on Sunny Delight) on TR at 5.10b was sent today. T'was about time. :)
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 22, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
From a year ago,

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 23, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
Ahhh lookie there, a vid of Deadmans rap! Nice solo Moose!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
Happy to report...

Sunny Delight's had another cleaning. This time attention was given to any and all looseness everywhere on the whole face, including secondary even tertiary holds, that climbers might use. (In the past attn was given primarily if not only to the most popular sequences on route proper.)

Reminder, if you'd like to challenge yourself on the Gold Wall variation...
Credit: Footloose

the weak corner is OFF (it's hidden behind foreground rock in the pic), lol. (You can take the climber out of the gym but you can't take the gym out of the climber, :) )



P.S. First onsight FA of Sunny Delight still awaits. Go get it!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 24, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
ill get to that climb soon! prolly hang all over it!
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Feb 24, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
Hey Bill. Where do you park for the approach. I'm a dinosaur so verbal directions are preferable to gps coordinates.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
Hi Rick, here you go...
Credit: Footloose

When you can make it down, I'll give you the show n tell. Hey if you bring Ron then I can take pictures! Anytime after 11a this time of year is best. Days are getting longer of course, today we were there till 4:30p.

PS I'd love to see YOU get the Onsight FA. :)


PSS

Rick, have you ever been out to the Incredible Hulk? Any interest there later this summer?

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/incredible-hulk/105852180
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Feb 25, 2013 - 01:20am PT
Bill,
Thanks for the map. Looks like a long direct slog to the crag. I'm afraid i won't be the one to get the first onsite lead-you're thinking of the Rick from 30 years ago. Anyway i'd like to have flail at it on top rope, perhaps this week when my daughter gets to town.I'll call before heading down if we go. I gather their is a 5.7 there to? Pat might be in shape for the Hulk this summer.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 25, 2013 - 01:56am PT
A bit south, but the current webcam image from Topaz Lake. Having made quite a few trips past this area, it really appeals to me - especially now having seen a boulder stash, and cliffs to the west through a tight canyon along 395.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
Don't forget the benefits...

... at the 30 minute approach crags that you often don't get at the roadside crags.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Hey supertopo, any Carson Valley loco want to climb today around 12 to 1pm, for a couple of hours? Bluebird skies today!

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=39.09090021130995&lon=-119.81964111328125
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Mar 9, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
lookin like a great sunny day! Ill be in a dank shop creating african dirt and scenery..(sigh)
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Mar 9, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
We're game! Geez... a day in the sun for once? I don't know...
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
Hillrat,

Good job on Sunny D today!
Hope you all had a great time! :)




Edit to add 10 march:

Cool pics below!

Maya, if you become a climber, you gotta give Sunny Delight a go sometime,
and then post to this thread, hahaha!
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Mar 9, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
Sunny Delight... The name rings true!

Footloose, it was great to meet you and hope we get a chance to climb again. What a joy to finally make the top of the climb, and we had a great time out there. That was the first hike with the kid in the pack, and about the longest my better half has been on in quite a while. So just getting out was good for us, and making the top was even better. Anyone in the area ought to give it a shot if you can, and meet up with Footloose too.

Here's a couple pictures for fun.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#293476
photo not found
Missing photo ID#293477
photo not found
Missing photo ID#293478
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2013 - 10:53am PT
P.S.

Whoever gets the first onsight lead of Sunny Delight, please post up.

For history sake. :)
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Mar 20, 2013 - 02:15am PT
Uphill from the CC Home Depot the other day.
T H

climber
May 27, 2013 - 01:45am PT
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 27, 2013 - 10:46am PT
Oh that's a C under the flag!I always thought that was an O for Obama
T H

climber
Jun 5, 2013 - 02:57am PT
Topaz
Credit: T H
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
What a difference a 20mph West wind makes!!

Today, it's the clearest it's been in two weeks around here.

Because of the Rim Fire, August 2013, near Yosemite.

Looking south to Woodfords from Clear Creek Mt you can see a thick bank (about 5,000 vertical)
of smoke blowing east. Looks like folks in Topaz area, maybe Woodfords too, aren't getting any sun today.

Tahoe is blue skies, too. Great!!
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Dec 23, 2013 - 03:25am PT
gonna be hitting it up with the mini me's tomorrow before some xmas shopping. thanks for all the work and beta.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
gumby, nice to see the Sentinel has caught your attention. Remember its glory is when it shines under full sun, this time of year beginning noon to early afternoon. Go too soon and you'll be in the shade, go later and it will please you every time how toasty the rock is, it's a real delight in the sun this time of year. Happy climbing!!
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Dec 23, 2013 - 02:45pm PT
I've climbed at sunny D back in the eighties with Kirk Miller, I was there, he was there, but I don't totally remember. Maybe check it out again this year after the holidays. The pics of the rocks on C-hill is where I cut my teeth. The backside (not a wintery climbing destination) has a couple treats on it. The obvious dihedral finishing into the wide crack has only seen 1 on sight, to my knowledge. We used to aid practice it with inverted leeper lie backs in the seventies. Then free climb up the crack. A friend placed an old salewa type bolt somewhere near the top of that thing. Knott quite sure why.
The needle up kings canyon by the waterfall is a good top rope at 5.9ish. Bring a broom to first clean off the broken glass from the face on rap first. We used to set a Tyrolean traverse from the rocks above the needle across the canyon to the obvious ledge on the north side. It used to be fun to take the jocks up there and see if they could handle the swing. Only a few did. An important note is the exact amount of tension you need on the rope, knott enough and you get stuck swinging over the creek. To much is just as bad because you'll hit the wall (Hard) on the other side and you'll be about 10' in the air over the needle (tricky to get down). Have fun, the hidden gems around there have a lot of charm and memories. Also Voltaire canyon?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Dec 23, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
Used to do the kings canyon crag quite often Mark..

And i even dug an FA out of the voltaire canyon "pass" area.. Utilized a 3/4 angle to create the holds lol! Those mud climbers on Utah have nothing on those lol!
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Dec 23, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
well damn. been lookn at rocks in those areas thinkin nobody ever bothered. anyone ever bother with the rock way up kings cyn you can just glimpse from 50?

and id join ya gumby, if i wasnt stuck at work.
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
Dec 23, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
Update.

I am in the Valley.

Seriously!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Dec 23, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
John,, as you scan any direction from Carson Valley and Eagle valley , anything you see,, was found by 1979,, and then some. Moose Are you COLD up here?
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
Dec 23, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
Moose Are you COLD up here?

WTF???

I am not from San Francisco, DOOD!

lol

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Dec 23, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
GUD point! Guffaw! But then you didnt just arrive from Poland either.
My buddy is down in EsCondido and sent me a pic of them sun bathing by the palms with beers. After a week of that they will be COLD when they arrive back home..
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Dec 23, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
you mean I gotta go, like, to Bolivia to find something unclimbed?















































ok.
Bolivia, NV
Bolivia, NV
Credit: jonnyrig
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Dec 24, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
made it up there yesterday. definitely will go back this winter for more.
Jasmyn on Sunny D
Jasmyn on Sunny D
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

December 23. 60 degrees
December 23. 60 degrees
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

Skylyn on the arete
Skylyn on the arete
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

Hey that's me
Hey that's me
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

the furthest climber's left of the three bolts at the top seemed kind of janky.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Dec 24, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
Nice we had 60 degree weather in CA too, any beta on how to get to the climbing around Bolivia? Looks fun! (and how is the ghost town?)
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Dec 24, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
jonnyR, If it's the stuff off fifty northwest of the meadow half way up? I was there the day before we got snow and was checking it out in a T-shirt. Take the old Kings Canyon road to about a 100+ yards under neath it. Quality seemed about like everything else it the area the for first few ascents. Probably a few 50'+- /5.9- routes available to the motivated. You'll want to catch it before the sun goes behind the hill though. Probably about 10 till 2 right now.

Ron I've run into some old school dudes that have probably rake this stuff even 10 years earlier. Dr. Long, TM. Their were a lot of good climbers in that area for a long time. Do you remember those crazy (tuff) brick layer brothers, I think one was named Gordon B. He was always up for an adventure.
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Dec 24, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
Bolivia's a far cry from Carson Valley. You have to drive up over the top of the Stillwater range about halfway through, or have a buggy to come in from the east side I hear. Not much left of the ghost town, but a lot of holes in the ground out there.

Looks like Sunny Delight was fun. I was stuck at work til 3:30. Hoping to go do a little chukar hunting/climbing tomorrow for Christmas chukar nuggets and entertainment.

Mark, that little crag as you described it is the one. Worst part is the several hundred yards of uphill sage-whacking in loose sand to get there. One block I think I'd avoid at the top on the canyon side, pretty much all detached an ready to peel off, size of a lazyboy recliner. Didn't have time to climb it when I hiked up there.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2013 - 11:14am PT
gumby, nice pics!

There's a real nice sequence pulling the roof off the bottom, maybe you found it. :)

Assuming you didn't grab it, the first onsight of Sunny D still awaits.

Top anchor is in weathered granite. Be assured though at least two anchor bolts are 4" and for added safety there's even a fourth backup in top quality granite across the top on North side. Anchor was placed on the very top (as opposed to side where granite is harder) so one could TR either side of the bulge.

I'll be hittin it probably this week. Need some sun!
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
Dec 25, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
I am jealous!

Everybody is climbing, and I am sick.

We are staying in Minded for Christmas.

Happy Holidays and have fun climbing!
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Dec 25, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
No way man I was on top rope too.
The bolt I mentioned is just very loose and wiggly. Still left two solid ones and i used the one on the north side for my personal while I set up the tr.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2014 - 07:34pm PT
Happy to report, Child's Play on Middle Buttress at Carson Valley Sentinel finally got its anchor. (Thanks Mr. Smooth.)
Notes:  Dihedral area now clean.  Arete area &#40;climbers left&#41; m...
Notes: Dihedral area now clean. Arete area (climbers left) might still have some looseness, thus take care here. Anchor atop dihedral. Approach from backside north to set up a toprope.
Credit: Footloose
To toprope, bring a 70m, you'll use every foot of it. 80m even better.
Face climbing plates and knobs on left, mostly knob and stem climbing ...
Face climbing plates and knobs on left, mostly knob and stem climbing dihedral on right.
Credit: Footloose
It's winter of course but on days like today it feels like summer. Just what's needed after 10 degree overnight lows.
Credit: Footloose

Amazing variety. Full value at 115-plus feet.
Credit: Footloose
5.8-5.9. Variations harder.
Credit: Footloose
The belay's a winter's haven. Real beach-like. Warm sands. Secluded. Great views.
Looking down on Lower Buttress and Sunny Delight.
Looking down on Lower Buttress and Sunny Delight.
Credit: Footloose

See you out there!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Jan 24, 2014 - 11:50am PT
Nice goin FOOT! Good to see those getting a little love.
knucko

climber
Jul 16, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
I went out in my back yard and thought that it was another spectacular sunset until I realized why..

Fire just north of me. Probably near Footloose's crag Sunny D.

I hope everyone is safe out that way.

Credit: knucko

Credit: knucko

knucko

climber
Jul 16, 2014 - 08:09pm PT
Credit: knucko

jonnyrig

climber
Jul 17, 2014 - 07:53am PT
Between dinosaur rock and sunny delight.

http://m.mynews4.com/display/5109/story/06eec3c025f390c55a6c2b498ee91f9a
Messages 1 - 95 of total 95 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews