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Messages 1 - 62 of total 62 in this topic
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 9, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
For 9 Jan 2013...

Sunny Delight Southwest at Carson Valley Sentinel is a fine local experience if your aim is a quick workout in the sun, for example, on toprope solo. Under blue skies in the winter it is hard to beat as it angles under a full sun. Dinosaur Rock, in the winter, so sorry. :)



A storm was supposed to move in today, so I thought I'd get a mid-morning lick in. Arrival: 0 mph wind. Departure two hours later: 60 mph wind! How cool, mighty wind experience. When it doesn't kill you, it makes you stronger! :)

Funny thing. Though Sunny Delight is 5.8 or 5.9, I bet it would challenge a few 5.10 climbers for the Onsight. :)



I had company today, a couple of ravens or something.


So if you're ever in Carson Valley in winter on a sunny day, it might be worth your while to check out the Sentinel. It's off Jacks Valley Road at the north end of the valley, just past the elementary school on the right.

Happy climbing!


Edit to add:
From earlier in the season...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
hey there, say, footloose..thanks for the neat share...
pictures showed, too, :)
little Z

Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
Jan 9, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
Footloose,

wish I was there...for the wind, for the work-out, for the Golden Eagles.

pretty cool
john hansen

climber
Jan 9, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
Almost positive that, that one photo is of a Golden Eagle. It is not a turkey vulture, thats for sure.

Perhaps some kind of hawk , but me thinks eagle..

Edit: looked again, thats an eagle, good company indeed.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jan 10, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Hey Footloose,
I live in Mottsville and have often looked up at the Sentinel on my way to Carson. I asked a friend (climbing partner who grew up in G-ville) about it and he said it's a choss pile and rattlesnake haven.

To me it looks like a winter work out haven! I'd like to check it out sometime. Care to show me around???

-Friedo
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jan 10, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Ron,
What's the deal with the access to D-Rock? I heard a while back there was a gate across the road???
The Wedge

Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
Jan 10, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
I may have to hit this place up one day in Feb.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 10, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
what's up with the graffiti? somebody needs to clean that sh#t up!
msiddens

Trad climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Nice work Bill- glad to see you getting some!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
There's an easy 20 minute approach through easy terrain. (Did I mention easy?!)

I love to show n tell. When the weather's supposed to be gorgeous and any of you guys can make it up (or down), shoot me an email, we'll go.

Of course with a toprope setup, there are many variations you can do on this crag, easier or harder, making it exceptional for a workout. The OW crack heading off at 11 o'clock goes 5.7 or so.

It's pump-worthy and sun-worthy for sure, great local prep for Woodfords and beyond later!




Friedo, if you're in Mottsville, we'll have to meet up for Woodfords, etc, as well. I'm over here in Jacks Valley.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
Ron, good eye there. I haven't. It's waiting for you!

Actually I'll probably get around to it one of these days. Between the Jobs Peak project and the workouts in the sun, just haven't gotten around to it yet with an advanced (trusted) belayer.

Or maybe I'll just run a directional top rope to it. (There I could probably practice some "stacked butterflies" eh? - one of msidden's specialties, ha!)

In the picture above, there's another 5.10 crack (unmarked) on the face that's recessed to the left. See the crack there? It's pretty fun, too, for laps when you have a belay.
msiddens

Trad climber
Jan 10, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
witness the fitness!
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jan 10, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
Footloose,
I climbed at Woodfords a lot this summer. Had several days out there with KennyT. We should definitely meet up for a Sentinel sesh and get acquainted. You in Kenny???
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Hi all,

Tomorrow 30th is supposed to be warm and sunny, I have 2 hours to spend at Carson Valley Sentinel if anyone would like an introduction. I'm still looking for more consensus on grade and rating on Sunny Delight.

Email me if you are interested in a show n tell. I've only got three hours (2+ 1) but it's most excellent for top rope solo and workout.

Edit:

This formation is still on Sunny Delight, I'm still debating whether or not to trundle it as part of cleaning up the route. Thankfully it's not necessary, the route will still go at the same grade without it.
Meagher

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jan 29, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
Footloose, I can't tomorrow but would love a tour of some of these places some time. Do you go there often?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
Meagher, good to hear!

When you're ready give a call, I climb there regularly.

Ron, get it together, you and Rick, and let me know. Can't wait to meet Rick as well. You'll enjoy it I think espec this time of year when the weather's good.

Turns out, those buzzards are nesting, getting ready to, I'm pretty sure, on the next crag higher up the mountain. I'll be doing my part to keep an eye on them as the season comes into play and to try to keep them safe. Pretty cool to have them there.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
30 January 2013
Real summery at Sunny Delight today. A couple pics...

Great workout across 5 sends, shoulders are wasted, some winter fat burned. The vision: the Hulk of course.

One more:

Looking forward to your visit, Ron! Just give me some notice so I can set it up on my end. Next bluebird sky after tomorrow I'll be game. I'll lead! :)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 30, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
Dudes/Dudettes,friday you choose
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
For completeness, here's the latest revision for Sunny Delight.

Route now protects bomber bottom to top. Good to know as the second 5.10b crux is just after the "On the Lamb" section at the very top before topping out. Plus, no worries, as a fall here is overhanging, woohoo!


Alright, maybe TMI. :)

Happy climbing!
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 10, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
Well, I went out to try this thing. Probably should have stayed home. Got a cold or something that's got me coughing up a storm. So the hike up was pleasant, even though I think it about killed me.

Lots of that rock up there reminds me of the biscuit part of a McDonalds sausage mcmuffin in its crumbing consistency, and it took me a long while to convince myself I actually wanted to try leading this solo.

Built a little anchor and got all suited up and headed up. Made it to (drumroll please...) the first overhang. Thought I oughta place a piece in case I peeled off, so reached up on top of the block and tilted my head back to take a look at what I wanted to place and where.

The world spun violently, and for a second I though the block peeled off. It didn't, and neither did I, but panic set in anyway. Apparently this is a random bout of vertigo that set in on me last weekend, when I nearly pitched headlong into the wall, then the toilet in the middle of the night. Anyway, this new fun condition hit me at random for a few days, then eased, so I thought I was good to go. Nope.

After gathering my wits enough to retreat, I packed up shop and bailed. The vertigo thing hit me again when I leaned forward to chuck the gear in the truck. Whoo boy, this is going to be all kinds of fun if it continues.

Anyway, one of these days when I either recover or learn to deal with it, it'd be nice to go back and send it. Nice area. Looks like the overhang on the right would be fun too, maybe a bit wider than fists? Dunno. Thanks for posting up anyway.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
Hillrat, it was cloudy, windy and cold as hell yesterday! Give it a go on a sunny day when there's little or no wind, that's when it's completely magical in winter, spring. And of course, needless to say, when you're not sick.

The Sentinel formation is surrounded by choss granite. But you probably noticed the route itself is clean and solid not unlike the classics at Woodfords. That's it's charm. Vertical. Clean cracks. Golden knobs, etc..

See you out there!


PS

I'm surprised you didn't just TR solo it. To lead solo it, that's ballsy!

It would be gorgeous today at 42F in CC. :)


PSS After lengthy deliberation, I ended up trundling that beautiful detached flake shown on the previous page, it would've been just too threatening to the belayer below.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 11, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
Heh, yeah. not ideal yesterday. Sun came out and warmed it up nicely while I was there. Looks like you put some effort into cleaning it, and yeah, the route itself is much better than the rock nearby.
Thot about the TRsolo, but after the random spinning world thing it was just time to go. Definitely coming back. Looks like potential to clean up a few other piles nearby too.
ronj

climber
Feb 13, 2013 - 12:41am PT
I look at this forum on a fairly regular basis however this is my first post. I thought I should take the time to register and post a reply because my wife, a couple of friends, and I would never have had the awesome day yesterday out at Sunny Delight if not for Supertopo, and Bill’s enthusiasm and help.




Bill, it was great running into you while we were out there. As I said, we’re all beginners so your help was invaluable. Thanks again.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 11:27am PT
Ron,

Just noticed your post, don't know how I missed it earlier! Glad you guys had a good time and it was fun running into you all.

I owe you 5 bucks, lol! :)
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 16, 2013 - 11:29am PT
Planning to head out this morning and give it another run...
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 16, 2013 - 11:31am PT
That looks pretty good.I'll have to check it out, Fortress today have fun!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 16, 2013 - 11:38am PT
Hey Bill, here is a photo of a Rawl non stainless bolt I installed about twenty years ago. I also pulled a bolt that I installed at lower mayhem cove that looked very similar.(bomber) I don't know what the cone looks like but the plated and stainless 5 piece use the same cone so....
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Feb 16, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
Went out. Still not well (coughing and such); but no wild spinning worlds this time. Took enough gear to sew it up like a knitting convention. Set of stiff friends, some mixed miscellaneous fleabay cams, and a set of oldschool hexes, just for kicks. Plugged a couple friends in, set out determined to send it.

Failed. Hung on the first overhang again trying to convince myself the yellow metolius would hold. Even got my feet around. Chickened out and climbed down. Twice.

Hiked around to the top to set up for TRsolo. What's that thing to the left of SunnyD? Flung my rope off there. Oops. Sh#t, Pulled it up. Went back down.

Reset anchor, slung the damn block AND plugged in the yellow metolius. Nailed it this time! Well, that part anyway. Flailed my way about halfway up in the wide, to the big block there. Hung around trying to calm the pump, then tried to get past the block where it eases off a bit. Nope.

Plugged a 8 or 9 hex just at the top of the block, which slipped in and fit like a Powerball winner with a high-dollar hooker. (I really wouldn't know about those things.) Then learned that the Silent Partner is much easier to lower yerself with if you do a leg wrap or two. Saw one of your "buzzards" do a low pass, swear I heard the bird snicker.

Walked back to the top, tossed the rope off the right bolts this time, and cleaned up my act. Alcohol hand sanitizer really stings.

All said and done, I suck! But I made it past the first overhang on suspect terrain, rope solo, with a device I'm not completely comfortable with, at what's probably my lead limit, and halfway or so up the route. Without falling, without dying. So... I feel pretty good about it.
Thanks!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
Kenny, interesting pic. The comparative "useful life" of bolts - cs and ss - in situ in the sierra - has been on my mind this year. That one looks good to go for another 25 - 50.



Hillrat, awesome post, pic! So I think you're 0 for 2 out there now as far as sunny skies, LOL, correct me if i'm wrong. Sort of ironic. Eh?

Anyways, next time you can go when it's sunny - to catch Sunny Delight in all its glory, of course - let's get together and we'll do the whole shebang. Many times over for a good adventure and workout!

Climb on! :)



Edit to add, 21 Feb 2013:

The Gold Wall (variation on Sunny Delight) on TR at 5.10b was sent today. T'was about time. :)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
Happy to report...

Sunny Delight's had another cleaning. This time attention was given to any and all looseness everywhere on the whole face, including secondary even tertiary holds, that climbers might use. (In the past attn was given primarily if not only to the most popular sequences on route proper.)

Reminder, if you'd like to challenge yourself on the Gold Wall variation...

the weak corner is OFF (it's hidden behind foreground rock in the pic), lol. (You can take the climber out of the gym but you can't take the gym out of the climber, :) )



P.S. First onsight FA of Sunny Delight still awaits. Go get it!
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Feb 24, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
Hey Bill. Where do you park for the approach. I'm a dinosaur so verbal directions are preferable to gps coordinates.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
Hi Rick, here you go...

When you can make it down, I'll give you the show n tell. Hey if you bring Ron then I can take pictures! Anytime after 11a this time of year is best. Days are getting longer of course, today we were there till 4:30p.

PS I'd love to see YOU get the Onsight FA. :)


PSS

Rick, have you ever been out to the Incredible Hulk? Any interest there later this summer?

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/incredible-hulk/105852180
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Feb 25, 2013 - 01:20am PT
Bill,
Thanks for the map. Looks like a long direct slog to the crag. I'm afraid i won't be the one to get the first onsite lead-you're thinking of the Rick from 30 years ago. Anyway i'd like to have flail at it on top rope, perhaps this week when my daughter gets to town.I'll call before heading down if we go. I gather their is a 5.7 there to? Pat might be in shape for the Hulk this summer.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Feb 25, 2013 - 01:56am PT
A bit south, but the current webcam image from Topaz Lake. Having made quite a few trips past this area, it really appeals to me - especially now having seen a boulder stash, and cliffs to the west through a tight canyon along 395.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
Don't forget the benefits...

... at the 30 minute approach crags that you often don't get at the roadside crags.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Hey supertopo, any Carson Valley loco want to climb today around 12 to 1pm, for a couple of hours? Bluebird skies today!

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=39.09090021130995&lon=-119.81964111328125
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Mar 9, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
We're game! Geez... a day in the sun for once? I don't know...
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
Hillrat,

Good job on Sunny D today!
Hope you all had a great time! :)




Edit to add 10 march:

Cool pics below!

Maya, if you become a climber, you gotta give Sunny Delight a go sometime,
and then post to this thread, hahaha!
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Mar 9, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
Sunny Delight... The name rings true!

Footloose, it was great to meet you and hope we get a chance to climb again. What a joy to finally make the top of the climb, and we had a great time out there. That was the first hike with the kid in the pack, and about the longest my better half has been on in quite a while. So just getting out was good for us, and making the top was even better. Anyone in the area ought to give it a shot if you can, and meet up with Footloose too.

Here's a couple pictures for fun.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2013 - 10:53am PT
P.S.

Whoever gets the first onsight lead of Sunny Delight, please post up.

For history sake. :)
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Mar 20, 2013 - 02:15am PT
Uphill from the CC Home Depot the other day.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
May 27, 2013 - 01:45am PT
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 27, 2013 - 10:46am PT
Oh that's a C under the flag!I always thought that was an O for Obama
ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
Jun 5, 2013 - 02:57am PT
Topaz
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
What a difference a 20mph West wind makes!!

Today, it's the clearest it's been in two weeks around here.

Because of the Rim Fire, August 2013, near Yosemite.

Looking south to Woodfords from Clear Creek Mt you can see a thick bank (about 5,000 vertical)
of smoke blowing east. Looks like folks in Topaz area, maybe Woodfords too, aren't getting any sun today.

Tahoe is blue skies, too. Great!!
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Dec 23, 2013 - 03:25am PT
gonna be hitting it up with the mini me's tomorrow before some xmas shopping. thanks for all the work and beta.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
gumby, nice to see the Sentinel has caught your attention. Remember its glory is when it shines under full sun, this time of year beginning noon to early afternoon. Go too soon and you'll be in the shade, go later and it will please you every time how toasty the rock is, it's a real delight in the sun this time of year. Happy climbing!!
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Dec 23, 2013 - 02:45pm PT
I've climbed at sunny D back in the eighties with Kirk Miller, I was there, he was there, but I don't totally remember. Maybe check it out again this year after the holidays. The pics of the rocks on C-hill is where I cut my teeth. The backside (not a wintery climbing destination) has a couple treats on it. The obvious dihedral finishing into the wide crack has only seen 1 on sight, to my knowledge. We used to aid practice it with inverted leeper lie backs in the seventies. Then free climb up the crack. A friend placed an old salewa type bolt somewhere near the top of that thing. Knott quite sure why.
The needle up kings canyon by the waterfall is a good top rope at 5.9ish. Bring a broom to first clean off the broken glass from the face on rap first. We used to set a Tyrolean traverse from the rocks above the needle across the canyon to the obvious ledge on the north side. It used to be fun to take the jocks up there and see if they could handle the swing. Only a few did. An important note is the exact amount of tension you need on the rope, knott enough and you get stuck swinging over the creek. To much is just as bad because you'll hit the wall (Hard) on the other side and you'll be about 10' in the air over the needle (tricky to get down). Have fun, the hidden gems around there have a lot of charm and memories. Also Voltaire canyon?
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Dec 23, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
well damn. been lookn at rocks in those areas thinkin nobody ever bothered. anyone ever bother with the rock way up kings cyn you can just glimpse from 50?

and id join ya gumby, if i wasnt stuck at work.
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Dec 23, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
you mean I gotta go, like, to Bolivia to find something unclimbed?















































ok.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Dec 24, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
made it up there yesterday. definitely will go back this winter for more.




the furthest climber's left of the three bolts at the top seemed kind of janky.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Dec 24, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
Nice we had 60 degree weather in CA too, any beta on how to get to the climbing around Bolivia? Looks fun! (and how is the ghost town?)
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Dec 24, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
jonnyR, If it's the stuff off fifty northwest of the meadow half way up? I was there the day before we got snow and was checking it out in a T-shirt. Take the old Kings Canyon road to about a 100+ yards under neath it. Quality seemed about like everything else it the area the for first few ascents. Probably a few 50'+- /5.9- routes available to the motivated. You'll want to catch it before the sun goes behind the hill though. Probably about 10 till 2 right now.

Ron I've run into some old school dudes that have probably rake this stuff even 10 years earlier. Dr. Long, TM. Their were a lot of good climbers in that area for a long time. Do you remember those crazy (tuff) brick layer brothers, I think one was named Gordon B. He was always up for an adventure.
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Dec 24, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
Bolivia's a far cry from Carson Valley. You have to drive up over the top of the Stillwater range about halfway through, or have a buggy to come in from the east side I hear. Not much left of the ghost town, but a lot of holes in the ground out there.

Looks like Sunny Delight was fun. I was stuck at work til 3:30. Hoping to go do a little chukar hunting/climbing tomorrow for Christmas chukar nuggets and entertainment.

Mark, that little crag as you described it is the one. Worst part is the several hundred yards of uphill sage-whacking in loose sand to get there. One block I think I'd avoid at the top on the canyon side, pretty much all detached an ready to peel off, size of a lazyboy recliner. Didn't have time to climb it when I hiked up there.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2013 - 11:14am PT
gumby, nice pics!

There's a real nice sequence pulling the roof off the bottom, maybe you found it. :)

Assuming you didn't grab it, the first onsight of Sunny D still awaits.

Top anchor is in weathered granite. Be assured though at least two anchor bolts are 4" and for added safety there's even a fourth backup in top quality granite across the top on North side. Anchor was placed on the very top (as opposed to side where granite is harder) so one could TR either side of the bulge.

I'll be hittin it probably this week. Need some sun!
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Dec 25, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
No way man I was on top rope too.
The bolt I mentioned is just very loose and wiggly. Still left two solid ones and i used the one on the north side for my personal while I set up the tr.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2014 - 07:34pm PT
Happy to report, Child's Play on Middle Buttress at Carson Valley Sentinel finally got its anchor. (Thanks Mr. Smooth.)
To toprope, bring a 70m, you'll use every foot of it. 80m even better.
It's winter of course but on days like today it feels like summer. Just what's needed after 10 degree overnight lows.

Amazing variety. Full value at 115-plus feet.
5.8-5.9. Variations harder.
The belay's a winter's haven. Real beach-like. Warm sands. Secluded. Great views.

See you out there!
knucko

climber
Jul 16, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
I went out in my back yard and thought that it was another spectacular sunset until I realized why..

Fire just north of me. Probably near Footloose's crag Sunny D.

I hope everyone is safe out that way.



knucko

climber
Jul 16, 2014 - 08:09pm PT

jonnyrig

climber
Jul 17, 2014 - 07:53am PT
Between dinosaur rock and sunny delight.

http://m.mynews4.com/display/5109/story/06eec3c025f390c55a6c2b498ee91f9a
jonnyrig

climber
Mar 24, 2015 - 09:09am PT
What's new around here? Last time I recommended the area, someone else posted up and told the inquisitor not to waste their time.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2015 - 12:23pm PT
fyi, I think Sunny D still awaits its first onsight.
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