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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 7, 2013 - 11:38am PT
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In Decemeber a Franco-Spaniard team climbed what Rolando Garibotti would call ‘the climb of the season’ on Cerro Murallón. A stunning 1000m buttress in a remote and hard to access part of Argentine / Chilean Patagonia, the story of the climb is so good that I’ve just translated it as is. What makes it so amazing is how different it was from a standard Patagonian trip where ‘epics’ are rarely had nowadays and the onus is on light and fast alpinism- Cerro Murallón would prove the real McCoy expedition deal.
A proud ascent made by an incredibly well rounded team. Lise's TR is definitely worth a read.
http://daily.epictv.com/blog/2013/01/05/incredible-report-on-fa-of-se-pillar-of-cerro-murallon-patagonia/
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Man, talk about a beautiful line!
I'd say it is more than the climb of this season - maybe the last 5 or 10?
How did they beat Donini to it?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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In the time since I posted the only response to this there have been
13 posts to the Morons Attacked In Peru thread! That's a sad commentary.
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Holy crap !...nice pics and an amazing looking line in an amazing place !
bump for climbing
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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That corner looks incredible.
Thanks for the link.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Thank you for posting, that's awesome!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I don't get it Reilly. I looked at the TR, and couldn't find the link to send them money.
And it didn't look like been whipped by anything more than the wind. And all we've got to go on is their side of the story. Maybe things will look different when a team of international journalists goes down there and interviews the rock.
Kidding aside, awesome adventure!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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INCREDIBLE!!
Not enuff pix................
Must be saving them for the money making tour..................
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Looks frosty. Donate for a new camera !? They don't need no steekin compressor.
Seriously though...wow. Nice.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Thank you very much for that link. What a line! I particularly loved that picture of the snow on the portaledges, and that M6 WI6 pitch looked amazing.
Thanks again.
John
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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very good. that glaier looks heinous
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Hardcore ascent! Well done. Nice story, thanks for the link.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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We were disgusted! I have never lived through such a long sunrise in my life!
Fifteen bolts over 21 pitches, 1000m, and 9 days. That is impressive to me.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Hey Shino, how're you doing-did you get some more great Sierra climbs in over the last summer? thanks for posting the link, looks amazing/sounds epic!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Man- sometimes I feel like such a stone cutter and then I get reminded that I am so weak sauce.
Proud
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Just got to Calafate.....maybe ill run into them...lots goodness in these hills!!
Edited to say that route looks awesome!!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Wow! Commitment and some near misses (and hits).
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Proud for sure. Rock quality looked awesome.
That ice pitch near the top looked sick.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Awesome write up and what a climb!
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Leggs
Sport climber
Home away from Home
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Amazing TR.... thank you for sharing.
I think our success relied heavily on our solidarity. We all had our roles to play, we all had our highs and our lows but never at the same time. It’s because of that that we managed to keep going in moments of doubt. The summit feeling was unique; it’s never certain that an opportunity such as this pillar will present itself to us as alpinists in our lifetimes so we had to really appreciate and take advantage of it.
To see the smiling faces at the summit ... beautiful.
~peace, leggs
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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What an amazing experience on an amazing line! Now this is front page worthy on ST!
Josh
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
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This is what I call the beauty of the trip report and why they're worth sharing. And not just theirs, mind you; I mean of all shapes and sizes. These stories provide us temporary reprieve from our cubical lifestyles in the form of relatable entertainment. Reading, in this particular case, with a serious degree of humility, as we're gently reminded that rolling out of the car and gearing up for a 10 minute approach to the base of el cap is hardly an inconvenience.
Then the eyes narrow in on the photos. At that point it's hard not to feel a twinge of envy. Now, it's not to say that it provokes a serious existential crisis, but you might spend a minute or two questioning why you're sitting in front of a keyboard, quickly taking inventory of your justified priorities while that inner monkey child of yours is rebelliously inquiring, "damn, why am I here and not there?"
Envy promptly turns into awe and respect as soon as the delusional grey matter in your head finally comprehends what it took to actually get to where they are now. Years of collective experience in hard rock, ice, mixed and big wall climbing-- prior failures, past successes and excruciating determination culminating in a summit shot with tired smiles in such a remote, uncharted, high altitude place like Cerro Murallon. Millions of years we have existed on this planet and there are still places on earth where, for lack of a better phrase, no man has gone before.
With the browser now closed, the awe mutates into inspiration. The seeds of motivation are either planted or re-watered. This sounds cheesy, you say, reading the rest of this narrative with a soothing Fitz Cahall voice over. No. Cheesy inspiration is reserved for scotch taping a picture of Chris Sharma on your fridge and sneaking in extra ab crunches while your cream sauce comes to a boil. No, trip reports do much more than what cheesy could ever do for you. While many of us will never summit a grade VI climb of that nature or difficulty, we revel in their success. We see what other mere mortals are capable of; in turn, we're inspired to push ourselves, to test our limits and our dreams.
Anyway, that's why I'm so drawn to reading TRs. Point me to a religious or political post that can elicit that many emotions and I'd be keen to read that thread over a cup of coffee.
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tom Carter
Social climber
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What an effort. What rewards!
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go-B
climber
Hebrews 1:3
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SCORE!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Bump for inspirational rawness!
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