Magnetron Carabiner Independent Gear Review

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Messages 1 - 41 of total 41 in this topic
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 6, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
Played with one today - It's stupid!

Dave Kos

Trad climber
Temecula
Jan 6, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
I think most of us who have never even seen one could have told you that.

BTW, you have long fingernails for a dude.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Jan 6, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
Soon to be released, the Integraton Carabiner, a non-metallic carabiner, all wood, take your climbing to the next level.

GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jan 6, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
OK Dave, looks like SOMEONE'S never tried coke before.
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
BTW, you have long fingernails for a dude.

Thanks, I have a great manicurist. These climbing gear demo jobs are all about appearance, dontcha know. :)
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
OK, so I am totally on board with the magnet to reduce gate-flutter on the rope-clip side during falls, that seems worthy.
Jonnnyyyzzz

Trad climber
San Diego,CA
Jan 6, 2013 - 11:06pm PT
I played with one in a shop the other day. What happens when you drop that piece of crap in the dirt and the magnets fill up the trick lock triggers with iron flakes like any other magnet that gets dropped in the dirt? How are you going to clean that out. What a piece of sh_t.
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Jan 6, 2013 - 11:32pm PT

Piece of sh!t...

mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:37am PT
Magnetite is a common accessory mineral in granitic rocks, especially in earlier stage veins (~400-450C if memory serves)... so some of that magnetic sh#t ain'tchur common iron flakes.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jan 7, 2013 - 04:58am PT
I think they rock and will be common in the future.
ELM !

climber
Near Boston
Jan 7, 2013 - 05:18am PT
I am always really suspicious when a company makes a product and immediately touts it as a "breakthrough". I've played with one. I'm sure that the magnet will collect flakes and filings as time goes on and get stuck open when you really need it to shut. I also don't really like that you need to pinch it to open it; that's a rather fine motor skill. I can handle normal lockers with less dexterity and from all kinds of angles. Pinching will be nice and fun to try to do with your heart rate is up.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jan 7, 2013 - 05:45am PT
Lots of folks also poo pooed Chouinard when he drooped ice axe picks.
Lots of folks thought it was just a gimmic.
Lots of folks were clearly wrong.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jan 7, 2013 - 05:47am PT
I am strangely drawn to magnetic carabiners.
Is it because they are a good idea or could it just be an affect of the medical metal in my body?
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Jan 7, 2013 - 06:56am PT
"I am strangely drawn to magnetic carabiners.
Is it because they are a good idea or could it just be an affect of the medical metal in my body? "
Ha! Funny stuff Phil !



Thanks E for the report for those us us too poor cough*lazy*cough to check them out yourself. I wasn't an early convert to wiregates but I did come around so I figure that there's plenty of time to fall in love with magnets. Or not.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jan 7, 2013 - 07:06am PT
I was touring Chouinard Equipment factory in the very early 80s and an engineer there was showing me an auto locking biner. I laughed to myself and thought "who the hell is ever going to buy that?"
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jan 7, 2013 - 07:14am PT
Not to mention that mono-point crampons and leashless axes will never catch on.
My guess is that the issue is price not efficacy. I can remember when carabiners cost $2.50 for an oval and $3.25 for a locker. Back then I had to decide between gear and lunch. Same as it ever was.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jan 7, 2013 - 08:30am PT
To me it is like the auto lockers, play with an auto and a magnetron and see which action you prefer. If you are like me and can't come to terms with your monkey brain just embrace it and have a fun toy. It isn't a need, and I don't think anyone (even BD) makes bones about it being necessary equipment for rock climbing... just another cool gadget that is fun. For some people that is worth twenty something bucks.
Dave Kos

Trad climber
Temecula
Jan 7, 2013 - 08:40am PT
Seems to me this thing is trying to sove a problem that has already been solved quite well.

It doesn't seem to offer any advantage over auto-lock 'biners that use a spring, while introducing more complexity.

Electro-magnetism does not work better than simple mechanics in this situation.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 7, 2013 - 08:42am PT
i see dirt, grit, lichens and ice clogging those into something to be tossed from the cliff face in pure disgust.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Jan 7, 2013 - 08:49am PT
I haven't had a chance to play with one, myself. I might get a pair just for grins. When I do, I'll make sure and go drop them in a bunch of dirt and report back.

I do recall that one of the guys at the shop said that they specifically can't be used in ice, so he has no use for them.
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Jan 7, 2013 - 09:09am PT
This is the easiest 'one handed' locker design I have used. I don't do a lot of 'one handed' extreme locking so I'm not sure how handy that is.
We have been climbing with them for a little over a year and haven't noticed any gunk build-up in the magnets. I don't know how magnetic our soil is.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Jan 7, 2013 - 09:13am PT
Must be nice to have had them for over a year!

Our shop still keeps getting the brush-off and delay notices with the ship date on these, for over 3 months now. They get the grid lock belay version but that's it.

Same thing with both the REI's in town, can't get them there either. So either there is a hell of a lot of demand or they are having some serious issues with production.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 7, 2013 - 09:14am PT
I own one, and use it.

It works really nicely for the ATC biner but I can't see it as part of a draw... you can't use two fingers to open it up and slap a rope into it.

philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jan 7, 2013 - 09:16am PT
I would like to hear more about use in winter. I thought they would be great with a gloved hand.
Morgan

Trad climber
East Coast
Jan 7, 2013 - 09:42am PT
Pricey, but a cool, innovative, design. Fast action. Works well with gloves, I like that there is no screw collar for a bight of rope to hang up on.

From their manual, they mention you should keep the Magnetron a certain distance away from your avy beacon.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Jan 7, 2013 - 09:48am PT
From their manual, they mention you should keep the Magnetron a certain distance away from your avy beacon.

Good point. And yer watch and maybe any other electronics: walkie talkies, Ipods, cell phones ....perhaps? Should be interesting.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Jan 7, 2013 - 10:11am PT
So either there is a hell of a lot of demand or they are having some serious issues with production.

Or the company geologists has already determined there is too much iron in your sands down there and will only sell to places surrounded by slimestone.

B, LCC grainite has some magnetite in it.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Jan 7, 2013 - 10:39am PT
I've had one now for about six months and I kind of like it. Being a gear junkie I've tried to tras it. I've thrown it in the dirt and stomped and ground with my foot. Sure enough the magnets were jammed when I was done, but so was the screw collar of the manual locker I ground into the dirt along side it. Both took about the same effort to clear out and get working again.

I like that I know that when the gate is closed, the 'biner is locked. I don't like that I will eventually lose the habit of checking to see if it's locked though.

Then I held it under some sprinkly water when I was ice climbing in Hyalite last month. The temp was 5-8 F and, sure enough, it froze up. But so did the one with the screw lock collar that I held next to it. The Magnatron was easier and quicker to thaw out in my armpit.

I don't think I'm going to use it ice climbing in the future, however. It's too hard to tell where to squeeze it when I have gloves on and it's hanging on the back of my harness.

Climb safe,
Mal
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Jan 7, 2013 - 10:41am PT
They're meh. Nothing spiffy.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jan 7, 2013 - 10:42am PT
Thanks Mal that is good info.
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 11:55am PT
I was thinking of a non-locking magnetic version for the rope-side of a draw.

Thanks for the info Mal.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
I have been using one for about 3 months, works fine so far but it's just another locking biner, nothing special, not a game changer.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 7, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
Do they funk with digital cameras, iPhones, credit cards, hotel keys, BART tickets or those of us with ferrous plates in their heads?
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jan 9, 2013 - 08:59am PT
So I went into Neptune's and picked up a Magnetron. It is very well made and has an elegant design. Super easy to operate yet totally solid. It is my intent to put it trough the use/abuse product testing drill. Starting with freezing it solid in a tray of water and seeing how long it takes to reopen.
Then grinding it in the granitic dirt of BoCan and rolling it in the metal fillings of my DeWalt tools and seeing how long it takes to clear. Like Mal I will also test a standard screwgate and a springlock as controls.
After that I am going to abuse it as much as possible and in everyway imaginable at the Ouray Ice Fest this weekend. TR/Gear review to follow.

My prediction is that in 5 years (or less) magnetic crabs will be ubiquitous.

Could have done with less packaging.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#282995


McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Mar 1, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
Finally got my hands on a Magnetron - had to buy one!
Credit: McHale's Navy
sharperblue

Mountain climber
oakland, california
Mar 1, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
I was using a few a month ago on ice; it takes amazingly little snow and ice in these to have them fail completely. Also very tough to manipulate with gloves. These are an absolute no go in their current form
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Mar 1, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
I've had one for about a month now. It's been relegated to my ATC biner.

I was originally thinking about using these instead of the locking ovals I have on my aiders. This is a no go for a couple reasons. For one, it's offset and I don't want something that can shift on a hook move. Ovals are much better. Secondly, I can open a twist lock without having to reach behind it to the rock side, which isn't always an option with aid.

As has been stated, using these in ice is pretty much a no go. I don't climb ice, but I can see how it wouldn't be useful for those that do.

As a belay device biner, I've found that its pretty comparable to the auto locker that I used before. Not really better or worse.

Overall, I'd have to agree that it's a solid and useable device, but not really something that's a mind blower. And the high price makes it hard to see the value over a cheaper auto that does the same job.
Gilwad

climber
Frozen In Somewhere
Mar 1, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
I'm not independent, I'm a climber who tests gear for BD and is sponsored by BD. So I probably lie through my teeth, but here goes:

Interesting to see the comments from people who have actually used the carabiner versus just looked at it. Some good fair ones from those who have used it. It's not for all people in all situations obviously, but I really like mine.

I've been using various versions for well over a year, and come to love 'em for most "locker" situations. If you're a guide they rule for all sorts of applications, just great. I use them on my ATC, they are just locked always, and unlike a screwgate they don't unscrew when rapping when the rope rubs on 'em (nice for Munters and lowering too)... Same for masterpoint biners, really nice there, they are locked, always, and very hard to open unintentionally. A friend and I worked at it for a while with various pieces of webbing and cord and did it, but it took a lot of work and holding the biner in a fixed position. I'm not concerned about this, meteors in Russia a bigger problem probably.

I have close to 100 days of ice climbing on my magnetrons. They don't ice up any worse than any other locker, and are much faster to clean than an iced-up screw gate (and WAY faster than any other triple-action). I just tap mine on the rock a bit on alternate sides and it cleans, not so with a frozen screwgate. At exactly the wrong temperature with the right amount of moisture you can turn any carabiner into a permo-lock, but the magnetron isn't any worse.

I have had zero problems with the magnets getting kludged up with iron earth filings or any filings from aliens, domestic or inter-space.

In some situations I don't want my biners to auto-lock, but this thing is so easy to work that those situations are far fewer than with any other double or triple action biner. It's not perfect, but it does a lot of things really, really well. I expect they will become standard for a lot of applications, they save a tremendous amount of time and effort fiddling with screwgates, and I've never had my Magnetron that I supposedly "locked' be unlocked. That happens regularly for me with screwgates.

Revolutionary? No, but very, very useful for me in my own climbing. I can use any biner from BD I want to use, and I use these for half my lockers because they work really well. I expect their application in industrial situations will be really large too.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 1, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
Tried one last year ice climbing. Was a snowy day. Gloves were kinda wet-ish. Found it to be a bit too hard to get open and off my harness (or, open for rope, etc). Didn't care that much for it.

I use an autolocker as my primary locking biner (DMM, HB, Rock Exotica). Easy twist to open.

Just seemed hard, with gloves on, to find the sweet spot to get the darn thing to open reliably. A bit frustrating.
MisterE

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
Just want to add: since I started this post, I have developed a ganglion cist that has totally ruined my hand-modelling career.

Ah, the salad days:

crazyfingers

climber
CA
Feb 11, 2014 - 07:44am PT
Considered getting a couple of them for my work kit because they look easy to operate and would be resistant to roll-out, but figured they would wind up failing due to accumulation of ferromagnetic particles (e.g. that magnet-tipped bit driver in the toolbox that's jammed full of rust bits and requires arduous, intricate cleaning).
I've been using a mix of auto RockLocks and AM'D triacts and have had no problems with them fouling up, but the triacts are too much work for high-repetition tasks and the RockLocks could use a smoother gate action, not to mention the sacrifice of roll-out protection for convenience.
I would try out Magnetrons if they were given to me, but definitely not taking the plunge for that price.
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