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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 5, 2013 - 12:02am PT
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YES I'M GOING TO DIE!!!!!!!!!111661!!!
Now that we have that out of the way....
Does anyone have experience using a silent partner with either a Teflon coated rope like some Mammut ropes are using....or a Maxim glider with it's 1 over 1 sheath weave? They both claim (and seem to) make belaying smoother, so I'm wondering if this will have adverse effects with locking up a silent partner. Maybe I'm over thinking it, but I figured I would ask before buying a new rope....well what say you?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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hahaha thanks locker....with that title it needed to be said!!!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I don't think it would matter but I'd damn well check it out beforehand.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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I just posed it to the inventor... stand by.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 12:48am PT
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Sweet...standing by.
And Mark I agree, the problem is I need to figure out which rope to buy based on this.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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My nominal use makes me think that a smoother finish is better for paying out rope and will make a rope usable on an SP for longer. I've heard several anecdotes of users really wanting a clean sheath for using the SP. Me included.
If the clutch engages by yarding on it, that much of it will work.
If you're thinking of a low angle slab fall with slow speeds that's a risk with a brand new rope anyways too, no?
I'd like to hear from the man himself too though. :)
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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As promised...
Mark Blanchard, the inventor, tester, and general smartest cookie in the pot when it comes to all things Silent Partner...
It should work ok with a smooth rope. The best thing to do it just try it. Put the rope on, give it a pull and see if it will cinch up.
Now I know that is not a full endorsement but I guess the trick is to take the SP into a store where they have your rope of choice and see what happens.
As with any belay setup... TEST, PRACTICE, BACK UP and treat words as nothing more than words.*
*In other words... this is not to be taken as legally binding advice.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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If a clove hitch works with coated ropes then the silent partner should work
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 01:45am PT
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Lol biotch
Thanks ihp! I'm guilty of almost always buying ropes online, so testing out in store didn't cross my mind. I'm sure I'll get some funny looks at rei....
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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limpingcrab is correct.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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On my third NE / Maxim Glider 9.9mm for free lead rope-soloing. All three ropes have held falls with my Edelrid Eddy. Of course, that's not an SP though, so YMMV, but I suspect it will work just fine.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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I've never used a teflon coated rope, but I do have and occasionally use a Silent Partner...
Your prolly way over processing....
"limpingcrab' has already said most of what needs to be considered.
Do as Hudon says, go throw something (equivalent to body weight) out of tree or off a bridge.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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damn, first-world problems popping up all over for the new year.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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I found *slightly* fuzzy ropes worked best with the SP. I used a new 'dry' rope once and it back fed way too much. YMMV.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
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Haha tony good call
Interesting gunkie, I think I'll end up getting a fancy new rope and go drop test them to see if there is any noticeable difference. As far as rope feeding I am pretty good about tying pieces off.
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