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Messages 1 - 52 of total 52 in this topic |
Reed101
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 3, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
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Does anyone know of any good books or videos to watch for an aspiring sport climber.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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SUTPID.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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There's a DVD that most here will hate on by Chris Lindner called Sport Climbing 101 - really informative from techniques of those 'in-the-know' - however you should already be an expert in what techniques are safe and which are not, because some things he does are a bit... well... not BSA-approved.
Sport climbing, bouldering, trad, alpine, ice, it's all climbing it is all good! If someone wants to talk about any kind of climbing it doesn't matter what my opinion is, it is weak to hate on it :) let others enjoy it!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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what's wrong with sport climbing?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Isn't "sport climbing is neither" a circa 1984 Vermism?
Cragman, don't you have a dinky little sport climbing... sorry, TRing... set up in your living room? Is sport climbing is neither, what is TR's in your living room?
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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what's wrong with sport climbing
I learned to climb via sport climbing.
Nothing wrong with it.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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I see... definitely don't want to start differentiating between different aspects of the "same" activity. It would be as silly as differentiating between jogging around the block and running a marathon... it's all just running. I'll be back, I'm going to RUN get another cup of coffee.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Moose, you and I went sport climbing. am I missing something?
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Sport climbing is fun!
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Reed101
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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People I don't have enough money to buy 300$ worth of cams 80$ worth of nuts etc. I do have enough to buy 10ish quick draws, and yes I do want to learn how to trad climb too, but for now i'm asking about sport climbing so please just answer the question without starting a fight.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Sorry Reed it always ends with tears.
EDIT: If you want to pick up climbing chicks you will at least need some nuts.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Pick up John Long's How to Rock Climb and Freedom of the Hills, by Mountaineers Press.
Read them both at least two times and take it from there.
Be safe, and have fun.
Also, practice knots at home. Over and over.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Cragman that is just wrong. And Moose I know you were kidding those are stout sport climbs out there in m-ville huh?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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I was laughing!I didn't say it wasn't funny
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I love sport climbing....wouldn't road trip for it, but, if it's in the neighborhood, i jump all over it.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Climbing is way better than sex. You can climb all day, but sex only lasts 3-4 hours.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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I hope his buddies from AZ. don't start postin those photos!
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Reed101
Social climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
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Kenny, don't worry i have a pair, I only have two problems I'd need a very large crack (don't know of any near me) to anchor them and I'd prefer not hang off of them, might hurt a little bit.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Never clipped a bolt my first four years climbing.Pulling gear/placing gear,that was it.Started clippin' about my fifth year.Almost got killed sport climbing about twenty years later.Stupid,stupid mistake!Got complacent.It's all inherently dangerous when on vertical terrain.I think a solid mentor is about the best thing you can do.Main thing:Don't get complacent.
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DanaB
climber
CT
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Andrew Bisharat (? sp) wrote a book about sport climbing. I have seen it and it has everything you need. Good luck.
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Prod
Trad climber
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I don't have the best impulse control
Well Locker, the hardest part is admitting it...
Prod.
PS. WTFAMS
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Reed is a good sport.
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Reed101
Gym climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
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its okay guys have your fun.
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Prod
Trad climber
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This spring we ought to get together and put that route up.
Barefooted.
Prod.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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I hope the OP has a thick skin and a good sense of humor. I'd be stoked if he or she checked in and let us know how it's going. Start a thread and you'll get good answers, mostly. Some people will give you sh#t, but it's easy to separate the wheat from the chaff.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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HOURS!
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Prod
Trad climber
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EDITED:
a bit of a hike...
But not real bad...
I'm in.
I assume based on the thread they are sport climbs. Or bolted trad lines...
Prod.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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I'd say get yourself a copy of this book+dvd:
Pretty well done. The best all-in-one gathering of sport climbing practices and tactics for working/redpointing routes that I've seen.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Isn't "sport climbing is neither" a circa 1984 Vermism?
actually, I think you can attribute that remark to one Jim Bridwell.
Bridwell also opined that sport climbing was like a one night stand. Lots of fun, but no commitment.
I like sport climbing. at my age, I am becoming more risk averse
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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The quote "Sport Climbing is neither" comes from Mark Wilford who also had some bumper stickers made up with the same quote.
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Butch
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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LOL... you guys are funny. Was it Confucius who said "If one want's to make sport climbing more sporty .. one should put up sport climbs with the implicit intent that "for whom all that follow" ...he he he.. bring your own hangers" ...
But then again ... I can't talk .. I can't even climb anymore.
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Scole
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Sport climbing is easy to learn. Just grab the quickdraw, pull up on the rope, then repeat. After a 100 or so tries you might actually try to climb the route with the gear pre-clipped.
Sport climbing is a great training tool, but should not be confused with climbing
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Both John Long and Lynn Hill got injured sport climbing. Heck they both could have died. Sport climbing breeds complacency under the guise of it being low risk.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Naysayers!
**
SPORT CLIMBING IS FUN!**
Pushing your limits "sport" climbing (or bouldering)will improve your "trad" climbing abilities. Period.
The reverse is also true.
Frankly, I think many on here are limiting themselves by being naysayers.
"I don't sport climb"
"I don't trad climb"
"I don't climb indoors"
"I don't climb outdoors"
"Aid climbing is not real climbing"
"I only aid climb"
"Bouldering is stupid"
"Toproping is stupid"
WTF!
Get over yourselves and your categories already. I'm sick of this anti-everything BS.
Become a well rounded climber. If you pursue bouldering and sport climbing diligently, I guarantee you will bump trad climbing abilities to the next level. You will be stronger, more confident, your movement will be more efficient, you will start to see options you would not have recognized before. And, again, it works both ways. Seems like it should be obvious.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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"The way I learned is the only way for everyone, anywhere, ever. Hip belays, 50m ropes, four scrounged hexes, blahbaddy f*#king blah.........
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Sport climbing probably does suck if you climb 5.9
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I am with Reeotch on this. Don't understand why the hate for sport climbing. Personally, I went sport climbing only about 6 times in my life. But I went for the pure joy of movement over rock. Did get challenged, and did experience fear just like I would if I was trad climbing. It does not have to be a nut or a piton from 1956 40 ft bellow you to enjoy moving over rock.
This elitist attitude usually comes from insecure people who want to think the way they do things is better way than others do things. Small peepee syndrome. Remember, climbing is a personal way of self expression. If your way is sport climbing, than enjoy it and don't mind all the haters.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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All the best "Tard" climbers are "Spurt" climbers.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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PS Most pure "trad" climbers I know cite a lack of boldness in sport climbing but then are too afraid to fall on their placed gear and/or are climbing something they would have to be in a coma to fall on. No reason to wear just one hat, it's all good.
Very sad but true. People think trad is so bold or free soloing is so bold. But they do not usually free solo anything at LEAST 2-3 levels bellow their OS level. Trad climbing and sport climbing is not suicidal. Trad is usually where you can place gear every 3 feet if you are crack climbing. I have seen 'trad climbers' of all levels ZIP up their climbs with gear every 4 feet when it gets hard for them.
The only type of climbing I think is boldER than other kinds is climbing difficult lines on remote high peaks with serious risks to get killed by weather or objective danger. Climbing where there is no help. And you won't climb 5.12 there usually. Aside from that, sport cragging in owens or trad cragging in yosemite are not much different.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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"Yeah but... swami, smearing, BITD, sputter, sputter..."
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ruppell
climber
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I used to be an elitist prick. I learned how to climb in the Gunks. As traditional as it gets. The only bolts I ever clipped where the ones on climbs there and they are few and far between. I finally reached the level of being able to onsight 5.10 there. Then I decided it was time to take a road trip. You guys who have sold everything you own and put the rest in your buddies garage know the trip I'm talking about. Then I made the list. You know THE list. Every major trad area in the US. Then what climbs your gonna do their. The test pieces. The climbs that get your buddies to buy you some beers if you manage to get them onsight. There was not a single sport area on that list.
Fast forward a few months. A buddy of mine has some time off as well. He wants to get some climbing in. Great. The problem is he wants to do it in El Portrero. I am not stoked to go clip some bolts but he's a good friend so I suck it up and decide to go. On the drive down I repeat every "sport climbing" joke I can think of a few times. It's a long drive. We get there just before Xmas. The first day we do some single pitch routes. My stoke remains low but it's still climbing and beer is cheap. That night we talk about getting on some of the longer routes. My stoke meter is slowly starting to rise. We pick a route called Yankee Clipper. A 15 pitch 12a.
We get up and get on it. Most of the climbing is 5.9ish. The last pitch is the crux. We literally fly up the route. Linking pitches puts us at the crux in a few hours. I get the crux pitch. I've never even been on a 12 before. The moves are hard but the bolts are bomber. So I keep scratching my way up. I finally fall at the last hard move. Did I really just do that? Can I really climb at that grade? Wow this route is cool. All these thoughts are creeping into my skull. I finish the climb and we rap down. We hit the ground just over four hours from when we started. 1500' in four hours and we weren't even trying to go fast. That rocked.
A little over FOUR months later I finally left Potrero. It's the place that opened my eyes and made me drop the BS attitude I was carrying around about sport climbing being inferior. It's just different. It allowed me to push into grades that most likely would have taken me a few more years to get to if I was just trad climbing. It made me realize that if I can climb those grades with bolts that I could also climb them on gear. It made me a better, stronger, faster climber physically. Mentally it unlocked part of my brain to allow me to try harder and reach further. Now I clip bolts. Now I boulder. Now I trad climb harder. Now I am a climber.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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...runouts...me....me...mine
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Now I clip bolts. Now I boulder. Now I trad climb harder. Now I am a climber.
Well said. If you have to tell people how much bolder you are than other climbers, you're missing the point of climbing. Climb for yourself and let your climbing speak for you. Climb on Reed.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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ruppell, that was VERY well written. I wish you wrote trip reports....and you have plenty of boob pics to supplement them.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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I soloed an easy 300' route once and didn't think it was all that great. I'd much rather do hard moves on a boulder or with a rope. I will never be a climber... I'm just not bold enough.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
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Ruppell,well said.I am just a bit behind you,but want to keep that attitude.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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I think the legendary Doug Scott said it best about sport climbing. It stokes our egos because with the closely spaced bolts, as we age, we can climb at the same(or higher) grade than we climbed trad.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Really good video Jim. Thanks.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Ruppel... +1 sums it up.
I love to sport climb and I have a bit of advise for you 101.....
You will need more than 10 draws.... buy like 20.
I prefer ones with large biners so you can hang on while you dog.
And make up a few Jesus draws for safety, you know the ones with locking biners at both ends.
But you do not need a cordellete...
Just the fact that you posted on this site shows that you have some stones.
Don't mind all the naysayers .... they just be yanking your chain, remember they are climbers and that is part of the deal.
Just have fun.
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