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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 11:16pm PT
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my tips seem to regenerate fast, and im an avid proponent for super glue!
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Super glue won't help.
The problem isn't flappers.
More like an accidental encounter with a belt sander.
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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 12:13am PT
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lol, you've never coated your tips in glue? gorilla glue works great too! the faster it dries the better!
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 10, 2013 - 02:26am PT
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It is good advice to take it easy on your tips the first few days. Or you will, almost assuredly, be sorry.
Which would you rather have: Two days of hard-cranking only to find you've got no skin on your fingertips and couldn't climb if you wanted to - for the next 5 days or more. Or a couple days spent getting on a few things and also scoping the areas while you build up your tips.Then a good day of climbing hard, and then ease off if need be, or continue cranking if in fact your tips are tougher than everyone who has been to Joshua Tree imagines possible?
No glue prosthetics are going to protect your fingertips from the ravaging they are about to receive. But yes - the salves do help. Best to come prepared. Any beeswax based hand salve works - Burt's Bees, Bag Balm, Joshua Tree Climbing Salve, Sierra Salve, etc. Wash hands after dinner, and slather it on. Reapply a lighter coat in the morning.
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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 02:55am PT
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how bout most comprehensive guide? i am interested in building a huge base, Im a pretty good hiker/walker can cover a good 30 miles in an afternoon and still have the legs to climb, i want to do as many routes as possible in a month and a half, minimum period of time.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
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It seems to me that you have gotten a ton of useful information here. You want more?
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mwatsonphoto
Trad climber
los angeles, ca
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Jan 10, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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30 miles in an afternoon? (in a car, right?)
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drewsky
climber
Seattle
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Jan 10, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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As stated above, if this is your first trip here and you're not looking to climb in the 5.11 range, it probably doesn't matter too much which book you pick up. Maybe one of the 'select' books would work, but look through them and make sure they seem like they have what you want.
The new Miramontes guide is nice in that it covers the entire park and has good approach info, but it is somewhat of a 'select' guide in that it 'only' covers 2500 or so of the park's 80,000,000 routes. That said, it certainly functions well as a 'best of' book. It does omit some pretty good routes, but most of them are hard and somewhat remote.
I've always liked the old Bartlett guides (small books; each covers a specific area) but they too miss out on parts of the park (Geology Tour Road, for instance).
I don't have as much experience with the newer Vogel guides; the Joshua Tree West one looks to be 'comprehensive' although as the name suggests, a further edition will be required to cover other areas of the park.
The old Vogel Falcon guide could also possibly serve you well.
I would strongly recommend keeping a double set of cams. If for no other reason, often times anchor building requires them. I can't count the times I've found a #4 Camalot size to be crucial for anchor setups even if no piece anywhere near that size was required while actually climbing. That said, with an extender of some type (webbing, rope, etc.) there are often myriad options. I usually roll with a basic doubles w/#4 camalot (old, in this case), extra finger size pieces and a robust stopper rack including some offsets. It really depends on the climb, but often the small widgets come in handy.
The best advice I can give is: clear your mind and get ready for one of the coolest places on Earth (that I've seen so far)! Don't be dismayed at the crowds in Hidden Valley: if it's full, walk around (as opposed to driving repeatedly around the loop), talk to people about a parking spot and be patient. You'll likely find a site to stay in even if they're all full and Hidden Valley really is closest to all the most classic climbing (you can walk to almost anything, really, if you're willing to put in a few miles). Have fun!
Edit: A red alien is approximately the same size as an orange TCU. You definitely want smaller! Green and yellow aliens (blue and yellow TCU) are crucial, as is at least one smaller (purple TCU/blue Alien). I have doubles or triples in those sizes and generally use them at JTree.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Jan 11, 2013 - 07:54am PT
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with any of the books look at the maps before you get in your car. most of the climbing can be walked to from hiddenvalley, but the guide book authors assume you are driving. everything is so short that things look far away, but they are close. for example ryan mountain is a little more than a mile away walking. have fun i am so jealous sitting in massachusettes.
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