| Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 2, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
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Soooooo got to the point where I cant mentally subject myself to my most current job ( in a long line of jobs; car salesman, Military police, rei guide,verizon customer service) or the city life anymore & my girlfriend & I are going to outfit a van this week and leave next week for several months of climbing in the southwest until our next jobs start in may in the valley. What Im interested in here is J.Tree tips for this time of year, or just in general. We are pretty self sufficient on simple living, spent 4 months on the pct last year, not a lot of trad experience in our team, I was forced into a lot of soloing in my first two years of climbing and she has done mostly sport. So... lets hear these entertaining and insightful responses? oh yeah leaving the 11th or 13th.
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locker
Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
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"lets hear these entertaining and insightful responses?"...
You're going to have a BLAST!!!...
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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"lets hear these entertaining and insightful responses?"
"YER GUNNA DIE!!!"
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Bring a beenie
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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
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Probably wont hit J.tree for 3 more weeks, but the park gets lots of sun right? and current temps look pretty mild by my standards, so no worries there.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Did you meet my friend "The Donald" on the PCT? Fellow from Courtenay, on Vancouver Island?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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25 - 30 years ago JT was THE place to winter. As far as I'm concered it still is. With maybe two or three trips to El Paso thrown in.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Here's a little tip, or maybe just a consideration.
Some campsites get first, or early, light. Mornings are cold.
Maybe you prefer to sleep in...
Choose accordingly.
Actually, you may not have a choice.
Camping is crowded, hustlin' skills are helpful.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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theres a decent farmers' market on saturday's. showers at coyote corner.
even on the windiest days there is someplace out of the wind you just have to look.
you can walk from your campsite inhiddenvalley to most of the climbing.
the end of january slows down. you shouldn't have a problem getting a site, but the best ones are likely taken. enjoy the desert.
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Gary
Social climber
Right outside of Delacroix
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Sheep Pass and Jumbo Rocks are miserable camps. Lows will be in the 20s, sometimes 10s. Highs in the low 50s. It could snow.
Indian Cove is generally warmer than the park. If it is really cold, head to Corral Wall.
Learn how to follow the sun around the formations. Bring some good topo maps.
On weekends Hidden Valley CG will put you within walking distance of lines waiting to get on a climb. Boy Scout trailhead will take you to uncrowded climbing.
Do some hikes, it is a beautiful place. Hike on the weekends, climb on the weekdays.
The best day to hit the classics is Super Bowl Sunday. The park will be empty as every one else will be getting drunk watching TV.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Be prepared for wind. Chill. Factor.
Seriously, JT can be really windy and cold.
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Bad Climber
climber
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What everyone else said, but remember it's now a National Park, so camping is limited to 14 days. Can climbers cycle in and out to rack up more time, or is the Ranger Gestapo too extreme?
BAd
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
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Sometimes the Alabama Hills and The Owens River Gorge are warmer then Joshua Tree,the ORG gets good sun in parts and is *usually* not very windy.
Mostly Sport, but there are some good trad lines down there.
I hiked part of the JMT this summer, from Mammoth to Whitney. Mostly in July. Maybe we passed?
I did not meet Mighty Hikers friend, but heard of him, and passed a guy trying to catch up with him. Can't recall HIS name, but it was funny, we thought we knew each other from a distance.
You're gunna have a blast!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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stay away from josh until march 1. go skiing this time of year. no money? ski backcountry, absolutely free.
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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 08:06am PT
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Appreciate some of the info so far, how about places to get water? camping outside the park? and whats the best guide book or two to pick up?
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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25 - 30 years ago JT was THE place to winter. As far as I'm concered it still is. With maybe two or three trips to El Paso thrown in.
Relatively new to SoCal, I just had my first realization that TX trips are in my future. Really psyched for that. But for now there's plenty to keep busy while in-state!
My tips:
1) You gotta bring all your own water, so load up!
2) Zero degree bags are almost not sufficient at times, go mega overkill and use a -40 degree bag, that way you can do the low maintenance no-tent bivy if needed.
3) It might snow! So be ready for that.
4) Camping: "the pit"
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Vertical.... go check out the Kern Canyon, north of Kernville.
Lots of climbing and free camping to boot and generally much warmer than JT ...NO LEOS around, have a blast.
Please post some pics and TR's .... for those of US stuck in the cubes.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Camp anywhere except the pit.
Listen to Guyman.
I've been in JT many times in Jan. when it was 70 at 9:00 in the morning.
The weather many change from week to week.
Same with the east side of the Sierras. The Alabama hills - Bishop - the whole east side can be amazing in winter.
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John M
climber
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http://www.nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/camping.htm
Water is available at the Oasis Visitor Center, Indian Cove Ranger Station, West Entrance, and Black Rock and Cottonwood campgrounds.
You can also get showers and water at Coyote Corner, which is a store on the corner of Highway 62 and Park Blvd. 62 is also called Palm desert highway and is the main thorough fair through town. Park Blvd goes to the West entrance.
The showers are pay showers and take quarters. There is a hose bib outback for water. Buy something from the good people. Its great to have showers there.
We would usually load up on water and food for a week and just go to town once a week. One night a week there use to be all you can eat night at one the Tai restaurants in town, but I don't know if the place is still there, or what the beta is, but we would go and pig out. Of course, with all things cheap, sometimes you pay the next day..
Lastly.. Always Always Always lock your gear away out of sight. Never leave it unattended, not even for two seconds while you go inside somewhere to buy a coke. Its meth head central and they have figured out how to spot a climber and rip him off. Especially be vigilant at Coyote Corner. The people in the shop are great people, but the thieves live nearby and watch the place. I can't state this enough. Make certain everyone in your group understands. None of this.. Oh.. he will watch it while I go inside, without being clear and making certain.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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look at where the guy is from who says you need a -40 bag. i have gotten away with a 30 degree bag for years, sans tent, but in my old age have started to opt for the 0 degree bag just fine. january february can be hit or miss with weather, but stay long enough and you will get some beautiful days.
there are water spigits at nomad ventures and coyote corner. you can usually grab extra water jugs out of the recycling bins if you don't have the capacity you need.
have fun.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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^^^^ Great advice Lock your car.
The Thai restaurant is still there. Buffet Fri. & Sat. Nights, very good.
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toadgas
Trad climber
los angeles
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go mega overkill and use a -40 degree bag, that way you can do the low maintenance no-tent bivy if needed.
3) It might snow! So be ready for that.
4) Camping: "the pit"
you been smokin JT meth????
.
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Gary
Social climber
Right outside of Delacroix
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What John M said. Scrape the climbing stickers off your truck if you have any. Aluminum is highly recyclable and a tweaker's wet dream.
guyman also gives good advice, though it can get cold and snowy around Kernville, too.
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stich
Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
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We froze our asses off every night until last night. The snow came on day one about 2:00 pm. Next day was sunny but very cold and windy, so staying out of the wind was de rigur. Same story with some clouds each successive day. All in all dealable, but not ideal. Eh, whatcha gonna do? It's been cold all the way back to Colorado this week.
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Kenygl
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Josh in winter is great. Yeah it gets cold, I've been there in a driving snow storm with a partner projectile vomiting out the tent door(another time I'll share the story, avoid Edchatas if it still there!!:) and then it'll warm up real nice. It's a great place to climb in winter hence it's universal popularity. Glad I was there 20 plus years ago.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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http://www.squidoo.com/firt-timers-guide-to-joshua-tree
This is a min guide I created for first-time visitors to Joshua Tree. It includes all the basic information, except that which should not be posted online. But it is certainly enough to get you started.
I am here for the winter, mostly staying at the Pit, which is a fine place, especially now that Giant(Hearted) John Stannard swept it clean as a whistle. You can recognize me by my little white fluffy dog, Teddy, who is usually at my side. If you see us, stop and introduce yourselves!
The showers are pay showers and take quarters. Not anymore(and haven't been for several years at least!) It is $4 for a 7.5 minute shower. You get a token from the shop to put into a machine that starts the shower water.
Always Always Always lock your gear away out of sight. This is so. A few weeks ago we had a thread from a person upset his backpack was stolen - out of the bed on his open pickup truck! Common sense goes a long way, but in JT, you have to also take extra precautions. Don't provide an opportunity, and take special care to camouflage when you leave a vehicle in even a parking lit at the grocery store in Yucca.
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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
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How bout guide books?
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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nice site happie... the only thing i saw missing was joshua tree healthfoods. if you stick to the bulk foods the prices aren't bad. the folks there are really knowledgeable if you are sick or hurt as well. also grateful desert is a great place for herbs, chocolate, tea, salve, ect.. sister's cafe offers amazing organic food.
okay there's my two cents.
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micronut
Trad climber
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We'll be there the last week in January. Adam and I are ach renting RV's and driving down with wives and children in tow. Eleven kids between us. Should be a junk show. See you there maybe? We're driving down the 24th and will be there till the 27th
Have fun!
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Gary
Social climber
Right outside of Delacroix
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Guide books galore. Stop at Nomad's and browse. The Trad Climber's guide is popular, goes from 5.6 to 5.9 IIRC. Randy Vogel's guides gives you an immense amount of info. If you can still find the Bartlett guides, they are very specific to certain areas.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Yeah, it can be totally toasty in January, and if you choose your climbs right you can mostly avoid the wind while climbing. But it can also suck when a cold front comes through and the wind is blowing. Being from Anchorage your idea of suck is probably different than mine.
Recommend you book a site in advance if you will arrive Friday or Saturday, During the week you should be able to find a site without too much trouble. Several campgrounds are first come first serve, but if it is a weekend you are likely to be screwed. Go to recreation.gov for reservations. Indian Cove is at a lower elevation and will be warmer and has water at the entrance station; most other campgrounds you will need to bring it in.
The RV crowd generators can drive you nuts, so look for a site well away from them. I find myself going to JT less and less because it sucks to be enjoying a quiet sunset and then the generators kick on until the 10:00 PM quiet time. If the generators drive you as nuts as they do me, scope out a place away from the campground during the day to drop your bag and pad and after dinner go stealth camp there.
All that said, JT is a wonderfull place to spend time and you will love it. Think the flintstones and bedrock. You did not say what difficulty you are looking for. For some easy introduction to JT start off at the short wall (zoo) in Indian Cove or Quail Springs (zoo II) where the noob antics will be thouroughly entertaining. Moosedog Tower in Indian Cove has some really fun, well protected routes in the 5.6-5.9) "ish" range. But mostly, if you are comfy with 5.8 slab climbing, you have to do walk on the wild side at saddle rocks between Hidden Valley and Jumbo Rocks; one of my favorite easy routes ever (5.7).
Hemingway buttress also has some great moderate routes.
These are all popular climbs and moderate, so if you want solitude and don't want to wait in line (weekends) it would probably be a good idea to look elsewhere. If you want something harder than easy routes the options are endless. Most of the routes are short; protect early and often.
Cheers and enjoy.
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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 12:01am PT
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two more questions? What type of rack would be minimum for a wide range of routes and whats posting up on the lake bed like?
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The user formerly known as stzzo
climber
Sneaking up behind you
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What type of rack would be minimum for a wide range of routes
Cams and nuts.
The guides recommend anything from sport racks to double cams. It really depends on what you want to climb, what you're comfortable climbing, and how much you want to run it out.
For a wide range of routes, you need a wide range of gear.
As far as "minimum" goes: A lot of routes at JT require gear anchors at the top. Show up with just a sport rack, and you probably won't get on a wide range of routes.
Most routes are short (less than 100 feet). Ok, maybe not "most". But, a lot.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Bring a full rack. The routes are short and you can select gear after you have scoped the climb.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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The lake bed is the lake bed. Not bad. God help you if it get's really windy. It's open, flat, and very windy.
Vogel's guide is probably the overall best one for a large selection. Bring a good standard trad rack and you will be fine. As mentioned, some large pieces are also a good idea.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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the lake bed is kinda far. you'll get a site in hidden valley. recently they have only been kicking out as#@&%es who overstay their 14 day limit. a camp site is ten dollars a night. if you share that makes it five. you'll spend more in gas commuting to the pit or the lakebed.
edit
i didn't mean people who overrstay the 14 day limit are as#@&%es...it is people who act like as#@&%es who get kicked out. the only people i have seen booted in the last few years were a group of high liners who camped under toe jam across from ranger coffee. their camp was the classic junk show...trash blowing, food left out, lots of empties, and they would glare at the ranger everytime he passed. third week of climber coffee and the ranger told them it was time to leave. claro bob?
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bob
climber
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^^^^^^^^^^^^
"as#@&%es who overstay their 14 day limit. "
HAHAHAHAHAHHAAHHAHAHHHAHHAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice one...... :)
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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...not a lot of trad experience in our team...
Now is your chance to end this condition.
Round up a full rack and get busy.
To prove you are a real climber you have to lead Double Cross with hex nuts.
I don't understand the apprehension some climbers have to placing their own pro but it is a common malady cured by placing pro. Start with easier routes and move onward until it becomes like breathing.
I'd like to recommend:
Mental Physics
Double Cross
North Overhang at Intersection Rock
Everything on the Lost Horse Wall
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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For guidebooks, both Vogel's latest book and the Miramontes book are excellent. Both are not cheap but worth it if you need a comprehensive guidebook. For a select list of excellent climbs get Gaines' "best climbs"
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Byran
climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
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There's also water at the west entrance station. I think it costs a quarter for 1 min or something like that. It's a high pressure spigot though, so if you line up all your containers with the lids off then you should be able to fill them all up in 1 min.
The Gunsmoke Traverse is often wind sheltered and sunny on days when it's blowing hard. You can also usually find some wind shelter if you hike out into the interior of the Wonderland of Rocks. Tie down your tent good before you go climbing or you'll find it on the other side of the campground, impaled on a Yucca.
On days that it's raining, there's a small but nice county library in Yucca Valley. The Joshua Tree Saloon is the main place to get a beer, and they've got pretty decent food too. Santana's has good cheap burritos and such.
This beta is all a few years old, btw.
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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
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Alright didnt get a straight forward answer, would I be ok with a single set of 7 cams? fingers to fist?
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Gary
Social climber
Right outside of Delacroix
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Yeah, you can get by with that rack. But bring some wires, too.
To prove you are a real climber you have to lead Double Cross with hex nuts.
He'll need one quickdraw to clip the Batten Memorial Bolt. :-)
About Double Cross, on my very first trip to Josh as a climber, which was to take a beginner's course from Bob Gaines, the guide, Coz, pointed out to us some recently splattered blood and brains on Double Cross. That was sort of sobering. True story.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Alright didnt get a straight forward answer, would I be ok with a single set of 7 cams? fingers to fist?
As stated above, bring thinner gear as well as it is essential for adequately protecting a considerable number of routes at Josh. That said, you will find that 0.25" to perhaps 2.0" is the most common sizes you will use. Several shoulder length slings will also prove very useful. Depending on the route, doubles of some sizes might help.
Also, if you end up top-roping some routes (which is not uncommon), an extendo of some sort is invaluable (not to be confused with a cordelette). A 20-30 foot section of an old climbing rope is ideal.
and whats the best guide book or two to pick up?
I'm biased, but unless you plan on climbing harder than 5.11 or wandering far afield or you already know the area well (meaning you don't need good approach and descent info), you will significantly better off with this than any other guide.
You can either buy it, or I believe even rent a guide from Joshua Tree Outfitters http://www.joshuatreeoutfitters.com/
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The user formerly known as stzzo
climber
Sneaking up behind you
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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
Alright didnt get a straight forward answer, would I be ok with a single set of 7 cams? fingers to fist?
If you climb a 100' route, I calculate that means 7 pieces on avg of about 15' apart. Unless you decide you don't need one at the top lip of the route.
This, of course, means you have no pro for an anchor at the top and that you have to rely on finding placements for whatever's left on your rack as you go.
If your route doesnt fit that gear, you'll have fewer pieces to choose from.
There are a lot of routes less than 100', but you're already reducing your placement options by having a limited range and no doubles.
Are you comfy with that, and do you think it will let you climb a wide variety of routes?
Like I said, guides recommend anywhere from a few pieces + draws to doubles in some sizes.
For a wide variety of routes, you're better off racking toward the fuller end of this range of recommendations.
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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
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I was contemplating selling a set of cams which is why i said 7 cams, but I actually have doubles from .5-3 BD, and my smallest cam is a red alien, and a fair amount of nuts/hexes tiny to fists. pretty good coverage?
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Yep.
Not sure what size a red alien is but if it's down in the purple TCU size and you have singles up to the .5 Camalot, doubles on the .5 and .75 and singles the rest of the way up, plus a set of nuts, yer covered for most of it.
Doubles on the 2, and 3 do come in handy though.
Plan on a couple of rest days when you've fried your tips.
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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
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my tips seem to regenerate fast, and im an avid proponent for super glue!
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Super glue won't help.
The problem isn't flappers.
More like an accidental encounter with a belt sander.
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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
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lol, you've never coated your tips in glue? gorilla glue works great too! the faster it dries the better!
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The user formerly known as stzzo
climber
Sneaking up behind you
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The problem isn't flappers.
More like an accidental encounter with a belt sander.
Haha! I've been saying for years JT rock is like sandpaper.
I always come away bleeding... There's a reason why that JT Salve sells well...
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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It is good advice to take it easy on your tips the first few days. Or you will, almost assuredly, be sorry.
Which would you rather have: Two days of hard-cranking only to find you've got no skin on your fingertips and couldn't climb if you wanted to - for the next 5 days or more. Or a couple days spent getting on a few things and also scoping the areas while you build up your tips.Then a good day of climbing hard, and then ease off if need be, or continue cranking if in fact your tips are tougher than everyone who has been to Joshua Tree imagines possible?
No glue prosthetics are going to protect your fingertips from the ravaging they are about to receive. But yes - the salves do help. Best to come prepared. Any beeswax based hand salve works - Burt's Bees, Bag Balm, Joshua Tree Climbing Salve, Sierra Salve, etc. Wash hands after dinner, and slather it on. Reapply a lighter coat in the morning.
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verticalbound
Trad climber
Anchorage
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
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how bout most comprehensive guide? i am interested in building a huge base, Im a pretty good hiker/walker can cover a good 30 miles in an afternoon and still have the legs to climb, i want to do as many routes as possible in a month and a half, minimum period of time.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 11:07am PT
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It seems to me that you have gotten a ton of useful information here. You want more?
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mwatsonphoto
Trad climber
los angeles, ca
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Jan 10, 2013 - 11:12am PT
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30 miles in an afternoon? (in a car, right?)
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drewsky
climber
Seattle
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Jan 10, 2013 - 11:42am PT
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As stated above, if this is your first trip here and you're not looking to climb in the 5.11 range, it probably doesn't matter too much which book you pick up. Maybe one of the 'select' books would work, but look through them and make sure they seem like they have what you want.
The new Miramontes guide is nice in that it covers the entire park and has good approach info, but it is somewhat of a 'select' guide in that it 'only' covers 2500 or so of the park's 80,000,000 routes. That said, it certainly functions well as a 'best of' book. It does omit some pretty good routes, but most of them are hard and somewhat remote.
I've always liked the old Bartlett guides (small books; each covers a specific area) but they too miss out on parts of the park (Geology Tour Road, for instance).
I don't have as much experience with the newer Vogel guides; the Joshua Tree West one looks to be 'comprehensive' although as the name suggests, a further edition will be required to cover other areas of the park.
The old Vogel Falcon guide could also possibly serve you well.
I would strongly recommend keeping a double set of cams. If for no other reason, often times anchor building requires them. I can't count the times I've found a #4 Camalot size to be crucial for anchor setups even if no piece anywhere near that size was required while actually climbing. That said, with an extender of some type (webbing, rope, etc.) there are often myriad options. I usually roll with a basic doubles w/#4 camalot (old, in this case), extra finger size pieces and a robust stopper rack including some offsets. It really depends on the climb, but often the small widgets come in handy.
The best advice I can give is: clear your mind and get ready for one of the coolest places on Earth (that I've seen so far)! Don't be dismayed at the crowds in Hidden Valley: if it's full, walk around (as opposed to driving repeatedly around the loop), talk to people about a parking spot and be patient. You'll likely find a site to stay in even if they're all full and Hidden Valley really is closest to all the most classic climbing (you can walk to almost anything, really, if you're willing to put in a few miles). Have fun!
Edit: A red alien is approximately the same size as an orange TCU. You definitely want smaller! Green and yellow aliens (blue and yellow TCU) are crucial, as is at least one smaller (purple TCU/blue Alien). I have doubles or triples in those sizes and generally use them at JTree.
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The user formerly known as stzzo
climber
Sneaking up behind you
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Jan 10, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
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For my money, the most comprehensive guide(s) are the two Falcon guides: Joshua Tree, and Joshua Tree West (I haven't heard of Joshua Tree East yet, but I'm not an "authority").
But, that's a whole lotta book to be carting around, and I really like the Miramontes guide. It was my goto book for the last trip.
For all the time I've spent stumbling around with the Falcon guides trying to find routes, I'll take the Miramontes book any day of the week. With formation stacked against formation, color photos and GPS coordinates are your friend.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Jan 11, 2013 - 04:54am PT
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with any of the books look at the maps before you get in your car. most of the climbing can be walked to from hiddenvalley, but the guide book authors assume you are driving. everything is so short that things look far away, but they are close. for example ryan mountain is a little more than a mile away walking. have fun i am so jealous sitting in massachusettes.
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| Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
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