Woodson 2013

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Messages 181 - 200 of total 215 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Burch3y

Mountain climber
I offer nothing to the discussion
Dec 4, 2013 - 11:25am PT
Sunday, after the big rain washes all the blood out of the cracks, is lookin' reallllllllllllll good
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 12, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
New to the hill?

Check out my little video guide :)



as well as a blog post following me around

http://gregdotdavis.wordpress.com/2013/12/12/virtual-tour-mount-woodson-classic-cracks/

Enjoy!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 12, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
I was just thinking about this thread, and like magic it pops up. I can't remember doing anything at Woodson this year. Which means I'm either more senile than I thought, or I didn't actually make any trips. Whatever, hate it when that happens. And here it is, almost Woodson 2014.

Got an email from a Brit friend that wants to drag me around up there for a few days next month. Problem is, we don't have a tick list.

The pictures I've recently seen of that Firefly thing look pretty inviting. Should that be on the hit list? Am I going to be able to find it?

So what's good, what's new, and what is happening up/down there?

And no, I don't want to hear about some bizarre mantel/mantle circuit.

Johann, you ferreting out new stuff?
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 12, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
At first I thought that was a REQUEST for a mantel circuit! I'm always on the lookout for that next obscure Woodson blob to wrastle with...

The "Hippy Cave" area has some newer hard slab stuff. Johann showed me a couple problems over there that were HARD even though I only bouldered the start (and didn't get very far).

I'd be glad to show off what I know, I have a pretty good idea where most things are!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 12, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
Cool, thanks. Looked it up. Rasta and Patchouli faces. I think I may have walked under those with Johann before they were even tried. Problems noted.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 12, 2013 - 07:23pm PT
So Firefly, somewhere below the Ogre? Facing downhill? Tried to find it one time and somehow missed it. How long is it?
Burch3y

Mountain climber
I offer nothing to the discussion
Dec 12, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
So Firefly, somewhere below the Ogre? Facing downhill? Tried to find it one time and somehow missed it. How long is it?

You head downhill on the trail past the Ogre for sure, I can't recall how far it is beyond (50-75 yards?), but you head right on a very faint use trail. It's a little bit of bushwacking, and you'll end up on top of it - it does face downhill. There are guys on here that can give a much better description I'm sure.
Burch3y

Mountain climber
I offer nothing to the discussion
Dec 12, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
From MP

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/firefly/105802053
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 12, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
Heading to the hill tomorrow, hoping to get some good stuff in with screwed up feet. Damn blisters! I'll have a pair of crash pads, I have a few taller things in mind :D
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 12, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
Darrell, if you're at the base, facing the Ogre, turn to your right (north) and follow Burch's beta. When you get atop a boulder with shrubs growing on top of it and contemplating which way to go, you're probably standing on top of it. The route is on the northeast face and is probably a total of 40' of climbing? It's been so long that I probably screwed something up but that's what I remember.

Have you done/tried the Ogre? Although a wide start, the fingers at the top have your name written all over them! How about The Dragon? Man, either variation is gorgeous! And, what about Pit Bull, the diagonal flake on the overhanging face that Johnny was photographed on?

I'd get an early start, grind on up and over the summit to ride the Dragon first, head on over to Firefly, come back and contemplate the Ogre, then head back towards the summit for Pit Bull. You should be thoroughly warmed up to start heading down the road and have the whole mountain to pick and choose from!
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 12, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
Heck, before heading back down the road, bee line up and over the summit and down the east ridge trail to the Out Of Sight crack. A classic 5.9 hand crack with a 180* view!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 12, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
The Dragon
"Great line, awsome rock, blue sky, can it get any better?" <br/>
"Great line, awsome rock, blue sky, can it get any better?"

Credit: pelles

Firefly
Credit: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/firefly/105802053

The Ogre
Credit: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/ogre/105802850

Pit Bull
Credit: Weinberger collection

Out Of Sight
Credit: illusiondweller
&#40;a bit lower angle than depicted here&#41;
(a bit lower angle than depicted here)
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Dec 13, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
This list contains the woodson climbs that I consider as *best in class,* hope you get a kick out of it.

Woodson *Best in Class*
Woodson *Best in Class*
Credit: Doug Tomczik

Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Dec 13, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
Contenders that didn't make my list:

5.8/5.9 finger cracks on The Widow, Bereft boulder
Rexrode cracks (Cat Crack, 10c shallow corner, Rexrode Inn, etc)
Eric's Crack
Hard as Nails
Lie Detector
Poison Oak Crack
The Ogre
Cameron's Traverse
Laker Girls
Greg's Face
Slap n' Tickle
KP's Demise
Bad Boy's From Detroit
Night Vision
Uncertainty Principle
Move Over Junior
Deport Johnny
PhD
Peace of Mind
Retropulsion

And it looks like I might want to add an arete category.
Brian Bega

Trad climber
Montana
Dec 13, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
That's a hell of a list!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 13, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
Hahaha, Slap You Silly is "burl". It seems pretty bizarre that a slabby pseudo arÍte could qualify as burl but for some odd reason it does seem that way.

Where is HDTV, or did I just overlook it? I'd put that somewhere in there. Classic problem.

Yeah, with the amount of arÍtes that Woodson has to offer it does seem that it would make sense to have a dedicated category. The Dragon would likely make the cut.

Lists like that are funny, trying to decide which should make it and which shouldn't. Consensus is just about impossible. Aids Victim is pretty good thin, but probably not quite as good as the ones listed. Sheesh, what about Airstream? Yeah, that's the problem. Pretty soon the list wants to start expanding until it includes everything.
JonA

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 13, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
Anyone climb the arÍte on the boulder across the road from double scoop? There's a nasty (and I mean nasty as in doesn't climb well) fingercrack facing the road and an awesome arÍte on the backside with stacked blocks to access the tr anchor. IMO this problem is way better than dragon arÍte.
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Dec 13, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
I forgot about HDTV.

JonA, good call on those aretes.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 13, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
Yeah, the Dragon isn't all that hard but it is kind of striking. Interesting, I wonder if I've ever seen the arÍte(s) JonA mentioned. Wait, I think I know the arÍtes... The main arÍte can be done either on the right side or the left side? If so, yes, quite good. Clean, and harder than the Dragon
JonA

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 13, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
Yes, and one side of the arÍte is quite improbable but the friction is just so good. Cool temps definitely help.
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