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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Dec 13, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Contenders that didn't make my list:
5.8/5.9 finger cracks on The Widow, Bereft boulder
Rexrode cracks (Cat Crack, 10c shallow corner, Rexrode Inn, etc)
Eric's Crack
Hard as Nails
Lie Detector
Poison Oak Crack
The Ogre
Cameron's Traverse
Laker Girls
Greg's Face
Slap n' Tickle
KP's Demise
Bad Boy's From Detroit
Night Vision
Uncertainty Principle
Move Over Junior
Deport Johnny
PhD
Peace of Mind
Retropulsion
And it looks like I might want to add an arete category.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Dec 13, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
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Hahaha, Slap You Silly is "burl". It seems pretty bizarre that a slabby pseudo arête could qualify as burl but for some odd reason it does seem that way.
Where is HDTV, or did I just overlook it? I'd put that somewhere in there. Classic problem.
Yeah, with the amount of arêtes that Woodson has to offer it does seem that it would make sense to have a dedicated category. The Dragon would likely make the cut.
Lists like that are funny, trying to decide which should make it and which shouldn't. Consensus is just about impossible. Aids Victim is pretty good thin, but probably not quite as good as the ones listed. Sheesh, what about Airstream? Yeah, that's the problem. Pretty soon the list wants to start expanding until it includes everything.
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JonA
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 13, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
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Anyone climb the arête on the boulder across the road from double scoop? There's a nasty (and I mean nasty as in doesn't climb well) fingercrack facing the road and an awesome arête on the backside with stacked blocks to access the tr anchor. IMO this problem is way better than dragon arête.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Dec 13, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
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I forgot about HDTV.
JonA, good call on those aretes.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Dec 13, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
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Yeah, the Dragon isn't all that hard but it is kind of striking. Interesting, I wonder if I've ever seen the arête(s) JonA mentioned. Wait, I think I know the arêtes... The main arête can be done either on the right side or the left side? If so, yes, quite good. Clean, and harder than the Dragon
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JonA
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 13, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
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Yes, and one side of the arête is quite improbable but the friction is just so good. Cool temps definitely help.
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JonA
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 13, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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Also, the starface slabs deserve an honerable mention IMO. These climbs are so very temperature dependent. On a rare 50 degree overcast day they feel 10+ to me. Pretty much any other conditions and they are beyond my meager abilities.
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deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
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Dec 13, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
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Good to see the Woodson thread resurface!
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Francisco
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Dec 13, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
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Yeah Woodson!! Unfortunately, I've only got reposts and old photos...man, I need to make a trip!
These the arêtes?
How bout this arête?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Dec 13, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
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Eliot,
January. Mellonhead. Be there.
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JonA
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 13, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
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Yes to the first 2 pics. Don't know where the 3rd pic was taken although I'd be psyched to find out.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Francisco
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Dec 13, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
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Haha. Henny. Yes. I'm there. Tell me when.
Jon, that 3rd arête is downhill, east of California Night.
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JonA
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 13, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
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Got it. Thanks.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Dec 14, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
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That last picture is in the Hippie Cave area, right? The rope hanging on the right side is on Welcome Home?
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Francisco
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Dec 15, 2013 - 01:22am PT
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You got it Henny, Welcome Home, one of my favorites on the hill. Now, what's the second rope doing on the left?
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 16, 2013 - 12:04am PT
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Something hard I tried one day. Need to get back on that one. Got pretty close I think.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 16, 2013 - 12:06am PT
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The two faces outside the corridor on the left are very good.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 17, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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Maybe these have been posted here already, but I haven't seen most of them from the '86 comp. Taken from MP.com:
What is this?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 17, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
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Name this...
We know this guy...
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