Woodson 2013

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Doug Tomczik

climber

Bishop

Feb 26, 2013 - 02:00pm PT

Honestly, it was a super nice day in Riverside. The grass was green, the sun was shining, and the sky was blue. We all agreed we probably left with the wrong impression.

We only had enough time to bag the summit and climb at the island for a few minutes, but we tried to ID as many of the climbs as we could; although, that wasn't many. We did make a point of finding Flabob, however. Mark and I had a vague idea of where it was so we ran off traversing the hillside until we found it. The two surrounding dark streaks gave it away, but what really alarmed me was the landing...pretty serious infrastructure.

So yea, lets get a tour going. Some of the stuff in the photos look cool.

Not to derail the thread, but yea, Darrell that lead is tainted. All that tension from due right is really making those techy moves a whole lot easier. Too bad an onsight FA free solo is no longer in the cards

henny

Social climber

The Past

Feb 26, 2013 - 02:02pm PT

Yes, initially it does provide something of a TR which doesn't matter given how easy it is moving left. A minor amount of rope resistence may also exist initially due to normal dynamics of traversing rope run, again, before the actual sequence starts. I don't see it as much of an issue for various reasons, so I'm still against re-arranging the protection there. I like the cleaness of not having a bolt in the middle of that section of gold rock.

A tour is in order shortly.

Johannsolo

climber

Soul Cal

Feb 26, 2013 - 02:09pm PT

When you are by yourself with one pad, it's nice to have a flat landing. The rock directly in the landing is a leg breaker so I built it up flat. We can always roll away the rocks but it is a nice landing now. I'd like to fill it in with soil and plant some flowers around the perimeter. I guess if I lived anywhere close, I would.

Johannsolo

climber

Soul Cal

Feb 26, 2013 - 02:12pm PT

Back to Woodson, is there going to be some sort of get together (Shindig) this year as time is running out and the temps will be rising? I would think some "local" would put something together.

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 02:13pm PT

What 5? Pink Bug, Hardy Boys, and ?, ?, ?

In My Time Of Dimes, In The Picture...huh, maybe just 4. I did somthing else that took several trips and was as hard/harder than Pink Bug or Dimes. I must have done some others, but my gracious, friendly, encouraging "tour guides" were rather evasive about grades and names, as though these were throwaway chossheaps were we ticking on our way to the "good stuff". And this was all mid-70's - mid-80's, long time ago. Did Teflon before it got covered in paint (ugh).

If there is one art the Rubes did master (too bad about cracks), it was the ruthless, merciless, no-quarter-given sandbag.

henny

Social climber

The Past

Feb 26, 2013 - 03:06pm PT

That problem was done with no pads for a long time. Not that I would want to go back to no pads, or that it's a sticking point.

So, BITD (sigh) I'm hitting the duck for a quick afternoon session in the Wild West. Who should I run into at the down road parking but a Woodson interloper trying to snake a new problem. In spite of being equiped with all the latest technical enhancements (alcohol, files, etc) it hadn't really gone all that well. Ah, but I digress. Anyway, after a short exchange of pleasantries Dan decided he had time to visit the Wild West with me. He wanted a nice easy intro so we settled on the Black Crack, a classic 10b seam. Managing to keep my ducks lined up I stayed on and took up a bird's eye perch to observe. Dan commented on how good the problem looked, and how psyched he was to do something on the easier side. He fired up to where the seam thined down, stalled out, and then mumbled something about it really being 10b? As he almost topped, he was suddenly gone. I watched as he disappeared and finally hit the dirt. There was a giant cloud of dust as he rolled down the hill, with an arm/leg occasionally briefly flashing into view. As he laid there I heard a faint, 10b?, 10b???, 10b!!! Ratings were just part of the game.

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 03:21pm PT

Really, you guys were born to be the Social Directors on one of the tonier cruise lines, right? Such a warm embrace for every passenger, er, visitor, ah, victim on the good SS Roubidoux.

henny

Social climber

The Past

Feb 26, 2013 - 03:56pm PT

Like the tables weren't turned when going to Woodson? Oh, please.

What went around came around.

Bedford and Powell had it down to an art form. Everybody else just tagged along.

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Feb 27, 2013 - 04:56pm PT

Saw this on the other thread, which side is this on? Looks awesome!

Johannsolo

climber

Soul Cal

Feb 28, 2013 - 01:18am PT

What "other thread" greg? Go to MP and look at Sherwood forest.

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Feb 28, 2013 - 03:49am PT

I think it was the 2011 or 2012 thread? Thanks! I'll check it out.

gonamok

climber

dont make me come over there

Mar 1, 2013 - 04:10am PT

John, i have tried to arrange a woodson funfest the past two years, last year i personally emailed every freaking person i could, including most of the locals who were responsible for putting up the hardest stuff on the hill during the "second wave" explosion of development (early 80s - mid 90s), people who i still climb with for cryin out loud, and got nothing but apathy and weener dog excuses. You saw the turnout last year, maybe 12-15 people, and i publicized that i was going to have ropes hanging all over the place for anyone to use, i mean what more could you ask for? Greg brought down a bunch of ropes and there were so few people that we didnt even take them out of the car. I invited, cajoled, threatened, shamed and coerced people that i thought would be down for a reunion on the hill for sure, and they all poodled out. I guess i was wrong in thinking that the prospect of good climbs and good friends all in one place would be its own attraction, that a carnival wasnt necessary. Buncha pussies. If thats what it takes, somebody else can do it. Tell me the date and i will be there

henny

Social climber

The Past

Mar 1, 2013 - 12:47pm PT

Carnival?

When?

Truthdweller

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Mar 12, 2013 - 06:01pm PT

The last "carnival" had quite the cast of Carnies...

[Click to View YouTube Video]

BurntToast

climber

Mar 27, 2013 - 11:31pm PT

What size rope is good for Woodson for top rope and lead climbing? I have done some "boulder" problems and would like to top rope or lead some climbs next (to do list below). I checked the height of several of the climbs on MP, and they were all 35 feet or less, so I would think that a 30 meter rope would be more than enough.

Milkbar, 5.9
Girls Crack, 5.10
Airplane crash crack, 5.6
Robbin's crack, 5.10a
Manuel's crack, 5.10
Black Finger, 5.10a/b
Sickle Crack, 5.8
Out of Sight Crack, 5.9
Maria's Crack/Delight, 5.9
Big Grunt, 5.10a
Rockwork Orange, 5.10b
Monkey Crack, 5.10c
Left Long's Crack, 5.10d
Crucible, 5.10c
Digits Delight, 5.10d
Jaws, 5.10d/11a
Lemon Chiffon, 5.11a

splitter

Trad climber

Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane ~:~

Mar 28, 2013 - 01:12am PT

airplane crash crack 5.6

if we are talking about the same thin/tips (more or less) crack that is around 25 ft long, it ain't 5.6! that was a solid .10, as i recall.

edit: i heard it referred to as simply 'airplane crack' though, so it could be a different one. i think it might have been climbed/named just after the tragic TWA crash in North Park ('78) though!