Hyalite Canyon Ice Conditions????

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Messages 81 - 94 of total 94 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Nosrekrulcm Ykrul

climber
a state of mind
Nov 4, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
Cold wet and scared is no way to go through life, unless you are an alpinist...
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2014 - 07:00pm PT
Hyalite is gunna get colder!!!!
Thursday Night A chance of snow. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 7.
Friday A chance of snow. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 19.
Yea!!!!
Build up in layers of ice blue fatness!

Plaid

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-110.96096&lat=45.47227#.VJS9rB_AJR
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Dec 19, 2014 - 08:13pm PT
need photos of Hyalite radness
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2014 - 06:00pm PT
Plaid on sight of "The Thrill Is Gone" <br/>
Jan 2014
Plaid on sight of "The Thrill Is Gone"
Jan 2014
Credit: Plaidman

Cleopatra's Needle
Cleopatra's Needle
Credit: Plaidman

Plaid
Rocky IV

Social climber
Dec 21, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
Cleo's still isn't really in. If you are open to considering other routes for your first WI5 put Responsible Family Men at the top of your list. Better position than Cleo's and I think better climbing. Plus, it's super fat this year!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
It's on the list now. Thx Rocky!


Plaid
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
Great time in Hyalite.
Champagne Slot. Fat!!!!!
Champagne Slot. Fat!!!!!
Credit: Plaidman

Champagne Slot. Plaid led. On sight. Clean
Champagne Slot. Plaid led. On sight. Clean
Credit: Plaidman

Thin Chance. Plaid pink point.
Thin Chance. Plaid pink point.
Credit: Plaidman

Mummy 2. Plaid at end of lead. Almost at top in this pic.
Mummy 2. Plaid at end of lead. Almost at top in this pic.
Credit: Plaidman

Elevator Shaft. Plaid lead. Super fat!!!!
Elevator Shaft. Plaid lead. Super fat!!!!
Credit: Plaidman

Mummy2 and The Scepter
Mummy2 and The Scepter
Credit: Plaidman

Champague Sherbert. Rick on lead
Champague Sherbert. Rick on lead
Credit: Plaidman

The way we play the game is each day we swing leads as to who gets the first lead of the day.
I always count how many screws are placed on lead. I figure we are practicing so I place a lot of screws. I wanna be real good at it.
So here is the count and what we got done over the 8 days.
Day 1
Scott 13 screws
led Switchback and Fat Chance
Cleaned Switchback and pink point
Thin Chance
Rick 8 screws
Led Fat Chance and Thin Chance
Pink point Switchback

Day 2
Rick 4 screws
Rick led Dribbles p1 and p2 as one pitch
Scott 10 screws
Scott led Dibbles headwall in one 75m pitch to the rap tree.

Day 3
Rest Day

Day 4
Scott 9 screws
Scott led Elevator Shaft
Then top roped 3 variations and cleaned the anchor

Rick 7 screws
Rick led Elevator Shaft
Top roped 2 variations

Day 5
Rick 5 Screws
Rick led Hang Over

Scott 14 screws
Scott led Hang Over and G2 direct
Scott top roped G2 left side

Day 6

Met Dustin Nick and Matt
Scott 9 screws
Scott led Mummy 2
Rick followed and cleaned

Scott and Rick top roped
The Scepter

Day 7

Rick 10 screws
Rick led Champagne Sherbert

Scott 10 screws
Scott led Champagne Slot

Day 8

Got skunked. Palisade Falls was collapsed. Went looking for Alpha and Omega. Got lost. Ended up on main road. Joe Josephson, the author of the guide book "Winter Dance", recognized me by my hat, stopped and gave us a ride to our car.

Total this trip.
Scott 8 leads
Rick 6 leads
65 screws placed on lead for Scott to 34 for Rick.
Hiked about 25 to 30 miles to get to all the climbs.

Plaid

Hoots

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 20, 2015 - 08:11pm PT
Right on Scott! Stoked that you got a good trip in. That Alex Lowe quote always seems to sum you up- the climber having the most fun. Good on ya!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 08:20pm PT
Thx Hoots! Yeah. If there is fun to be had. I'll find it for sure.

Plaid
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jan 20, 2015 - 08:33pm PT
Nice plaid heading back with jack for his birthday on Presidents' Day. Gave me some ideas. Mike.

I thought mummy II was harder than dribbles. How were elevator shaft and champaign sherbet in comparison. Also have you done the fat one.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 08:39pm PT
Mike check this out for conditions report:
Southwest Montana Ice Conditions
https://www.facebook.com/groups/401228096671380/permalink/622292114564976/
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 08:51pm PT
Mike
Dribbles was harder on the Headwall in the condition it was in. Not picked out. No feet. It was really hard. Mummy was easier for me. I was more dialed by then.
Elevator shaft was fat. No too picked out. The Fat One seemed not worth doing. Real short with long WI 2 finish. It's in your face to start, then it's over. Champagne Sherbert was hard but I didn't lead it. Champagne Slot and Sherbert were worth the walk. And Slight of Hand is one we didn't get to but is supposed to be off the hook WI4 fun according to Joe J.

Plaid
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
Jan 21, 2015 - 08:39am PT
Great trip Plaid! Thanks for sharing.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
Thx WyoRockMan!
If I could climb ice all the time that is all I'd EVER do.
It is scream'n scary fun'!!!!
I place lots of screws but we always say don't fall!
EVER!!!
Led every climb with no rests. No takes. Cruised Em all.
Still didn't get the elusive WI5.
It was there. I'm almost ready. Leading WI4+ strong.
That lead on Dribbles was a long one. 75m. Good thing we had the 80m rope.
We had to break trail in neck deep drifted snow up hill, just to get to the base.
My partner was so pissed off. He melted down and threatened to turn around.
I took over breaking trail and screamed "YOU ...GOT ...TO ...REALLY ....WANT IT"!!!!
As I beat at the snow over my head as I pushed my way forward.
I almost needed a snorkel.
His lead first. I got the crux on the Headwall. He stole my pitch by linking the first two.
I didn't think I had it in me. But banged out the headwall in style. Then caught my breath and broke thru another drift of deep snow. I hoped it wouldn't slide out from underneath me.
I was ready to self arrest at any moment.
Sucked it up screamed "William Wallace"!!! At the top of my lungs and knocked out the final WI3 finish.

So good! Best climb of the trip.

Plaid
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