Hyalite Canyon Ice Conditions????

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 81 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 1, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
Cleopatra's Needle WI5 &#40;12/29/2012&#41;
Cleopatra's Needle WI5 (12/29/2012)
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Check out this beauty. My favorite ice climb ever. Although I do not have that many on my resume lol!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
Thanks Jim. Not really cold for a guy that worked in Grand Lake Colorado in -40. I didn't wear gloves much as it is really hard to hold nails or anything else when you are building.

Sometimes I even throw off my gloves while ice climbing.
The temps don't seem that bad really.

For BMartin
The road to the east fork closes at the intersection to the main road on January 1st, unless there are cars stuck back there then they leave it open until folks get their vehicles out.

Not any more according to this website:http://www.hyalite.org/?page_id=22

They say: There is easy access to the Main Drainage at the Grotto Falls Trailhead because the road is now plowed from December 1–March 31.

So psyched. We are at our hotel. Gonna jump in the Jacuzzi. Drink lots of water and hopefully sleep.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 10:08pm PT



hossjulia


OK, so you know, those of us less fortunate are now expecting a FULL TR of your adventures.

Have a blast! Hope you remembered the camera.

We got even better a camera and a GOPRO!!!
bigwall shitter

Social climber
the wild west
Jan 1, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
the east fork road is different from the main fork, which is plowed all the way. If it doesn't snow there's a boottrack all the way into the killer pillar in flanders, champagne sherbet should be at the top of your list. I've spent the last 4 days in the east fork/flanders. Today I drove all the way to the end of the road, not bad, just stay in the ruts. Of course that doesn't matter if the road is gated, in which case it's an extra mile of road for flanders, and 3 miles of road for the climbs like high fidelity and slight of hand.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
No avy danger as per:http://national-map.jhavalanche.org/iframe.php?center=GNFAC

We are driving to the Grotto Falls Trailhead. I am hoping that is go to go.
Never been here before. PURE ADVENTURE!
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jan 2, 2013 - 02:12am PT
Hey Couchmaster, what happened to Smitty? I hadn't heard.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Jan 2, 2013 - 10:00am PT
Shotgun to the head @ 1987 ish Mike? Rogers ashes got scattered up at Angles Rest by his lady Kathy and some friends. I regret I had to work that day and couldn't get it off.

Roger had been on a self imposed all natural, all uncooked, Veg diet ever since his fall off the very top of Rooster Rock headfirst into the Columbia River. The river was at record high levels and he was stuck headfirst in the mud with a broken neck. A young couple nearby gently pulled him out and floated him over to the shore.

The fall, which must have been @1969-70 somewhere had caused all kinds of broken bones and health issues which later morphed into arthritis in every joint he had. Roger was told he'd be in a wheelchair by the time he was 30. Then he's walking past the stacks in a book store and sees a health food diet book written by an old black guy that suggests eating ONLY raw uncooked vegetables is the key to the fountain of youth. It may have been, I was once soloing Mount Hood in the days when I was guiding and up there a lot and in shape. In the early morning gloom I see another way over also heading up. I tried to match his pace but was unable to. Later I learned it was Rog, he'd seen me, didn't recognize who I was and didn't want company. On later climbs together I learned how good of shape he was in, amazing. The diet helped a lot in keeping the pain away but as he aged (into his 30's or so) it crept back and he'd admit to it. I didn't climb a lot with Roger but we did some rock and some mountains together.

But either the diet or the prolific drugs he took as a youth, caused some rage to come out on occasion of what was an otherwise absurdly mellow guy and one day, he just couldn't handle the combo of pain and rage and did himself in. RIP Roger.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
IT'S FAT!!!! Awesome day. Pics later.

Couchmaster sorry to hear about Rodger.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
We did some PG 13 at Genesis area. Mountain Project says these are WI 3+.
Didn't seem that hard. It was fairly picked out which was OK by me. We both led one and toproped a bunch. Our first day we thought we would ease into the week.

Weather is perfect. Having the time of our lives
Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Anchor at top of Genesis
Anchor at top of Genesis
Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman

Credit: Plaidman



At the end of the day the Jacuzzi
At the end of the day the Jacuzzi
Credit: Plaidman
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 3, 2013 - 12:06am PT
IF you like Mexican or Thai food, try the spot about half a block past the mountaineering store.
http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-parrilla-bozeman-3

Fish tacos are the BOMB! So was Khan Burrito. It is amazing food really. At least to my taste.

What hotel is that? Seems like you guys are enjoying yourselves! Nice!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
Another sweet day. Got a WI3 lead done first thing this morning. Felt like the rope gun. Really not that big of a deal. it was just smokin fun. Had the GoPro on for that lead. 6 screws on Siwitchback Falls. Just fun. Love placin screws. WILD!
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Jan 4, 2013 - 12:04am PT


Pete Tapley gettin' it done in HC--a Deadrocker, at that :-)





edit: That Scepter video was gnarly--I was on the crux (seconding, thankfully) of Green Gully for a 19 second avalanche "flush". Keep the tools in and the head down...
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 12:55am PT
Vitaliy M. - We are staying at the Best Western PLUS!!!! This has to one of the greatest vactions EVER!!!
Great weather. No wind. Temps good for ice formation. So fresh ice! No avy danger. Or at least not enough to worry much.

We are getting plenty of ice. Tomorrow we are going to see if we can take it up a notch. Haven't had to clip off a tool on any of our leads yet.

Best ice I have been on in a long time. Another day in paradise.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 4, 2013 - 01:18am PT
Nice! My ol' stompin' grounds. Have a pickel barrel sammy or a pork chop john's for me!

Bar-muda Triangle!

Genesis, Hyalite 1984
Genesis, Hyalite 1984
Credit: Brian in SLC
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
Last climb was today. Rocked it on Hangover.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 6, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
Get it done Pladman! I'm suffering thru some sunny rock climbing in Sedona.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 6, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
hey there say, plaidman...

just stopped in to see how you were doing...

wonderful pictures! looks all fine...
some of not loaded, but many have...


hey there to mojede, too!
rooting for you, as well...


vitaliy, thanks for the very impressive picture of ice..

and to old man:

very good reminder to take care, as to avalances...
thank you so much...

(did not see it, but am reminded to pray)


prayers for you all,
god bless for the trips home, as well..
:)
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
Felt the vibes neebee.

Thanks Jim for the !

We had the best weather EVER! We got 9 routes done. I personally set 34 ice screws on my leads. We swung leads with Rick leading the first one of the morning on one day. Then I would lead the first one the next day. Five days of pure bliss. We climbed Genesis 1 and then Genesis 2. Switchback Falls, Fat Chance, Mummy 2, Then I led Genesis 1 straight up. We climbed Twin Falls in two pitches to get the alpine mult-pitch feel. Really it just made it more fun cause we both got to lead a pitch. Then today was Genesis 2 for Ricks lead, then I got to lead Hangover in free flowing wet conditions. I had to move fast so I didn't get car washed.

Plaid
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jan 7, 2013 - 01:18am PT
awesome!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 06:58am PT
Thx Munge. It was really just a PG13 trip.

Vitality did The Scepter.WI4
I would have to grow a third nut to get on that one.
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