oh ICE boys/gals~~

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Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 08:17am PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1656967&tn=80
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 3, 2013 - 10:40am PT
The last 1/2 mile of old ranch road is posted no trespassing. The dirt road at the end is chained off. However this leads to a water tower from what I can see. Does this make the road itself public access? I am guessing not.

Otherwise the option is to travel along the ridge next to the drainage about a mile and 500vert from will sauer road. Not sure if it is posted also.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 10:54am PT
dang,, looks like if you start at the turn on will Sauer where it trends to the north, you can get up on the ridge and follow it over towards the water tank area then down into the drainage..I know folks still hike in the summer up there,, from somewhere..!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 3, 2013 - 11:05am PT
While u guys are waiting that thing probably melted away already. It got much warmer per the weather report. Good luck!

And a good other thread bump. I almost forgot about that steep needle by emerald bay. Oh man it looks awwwwwesome!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 11:21am PT
inversion is still present,, right now the valley is colder than the lake.

Sorry the access is so screwy- !!!!!!!!!!!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 11:38am PT
Credit: Ron Anderson


perhaps this approach???? From Will Sauer? Ive not been on that road.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 3, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
That is my plan Ron


Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
May the force be with you.. If you find someone to talk with , be nice and explain the history and the climb to them a little- it could go a long ways..;-)

I was just our back, fairly warm on the southern exposure clock tickin and all. Once it warms above the falls, the force of the descending water blows her out. North side ice drools off the roof are frozen solid though.

That pic i posted, was late in the day on a warming trend similar to this. Early am conditions were much better..

Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Jan 3, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
That road has a gate on it.

The Ice is good in tahoe
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 3, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
hey there say, ron..

thanks for the interesing share :)

climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 4, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
Hey Ron here ya go man!

Bergbryce and I had a fun time! Not as nicely formed as it was for you. Lotta water running under which made us avoid the thin hollow middle areas. Nice morning, beautiful little spot like so much of Tahoe area. The top half was snowed up. Think Berg will post more.

Bergbryce on lead!






Rapped in to the bottom from here.
wilbeer

Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
Jan 4, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
looks great,thanks for the share.
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Jan 4, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
Killer.Way to be persistent guys.Proud!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
Whoa--looky there! Nice goin DOOOODS! the conditions are sure different but - its been done again after all these years! Hard to gauge what it would be like.

Looking forward to the story of the approach!

bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Jan 4, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
Here's some more content on Climbski2 and I's outing....

Although the conditions were less than perfect it was a fun outing. The taco stand totally hooked it up by both the beta on the climb (thanks Ron!) and a solid partner. Despite the cold temps, the water was still flowing mightily which made for some really interesting ice formations (more on that later).

The approach....
Beautiful morning making the cruise down the hill into Carson Valley
Hwy 50 above Carson City
Hwy 50 above Carson City
Credit: bergbryce

(edited)
If you want specs on the approach contact myself of Climbski2 via PM. It's slightly questionable at this point although the climb itself is on NFS land.

It was still chilly and as promised, the falls sit in a sheltered, cool spot. So cool there is some impressive surface hoar forming.

Washoe Valley surface hoar, north facing slopes.
Washoe Valley surface hoar, north facing slopes.
Credit: bergbryce

Our trail was eventually abetted considerably by what we thought was a nice, trail breaking bear. The tracks actually led very close to the climb and we were more than happy to follow them. Our assumption that it was a bear was confirmed on the way out when we came across them again.
Bear track in the snow.  I think he knew which day was garbage day.
Bear track in the snow. I think he knew which day was garbage day.
Credit: bergbryce

After following the bear tracks for awhile we began to hear flowing water. We made our way towards it and found the falls. Initially it looked pretty grim. The only climbable line appeared to be on the right side but Climbski2 suggested taking a closer look at the left side which ended up holding the route we took.

The entire climb is in there somewhere.  You can see some of the ice s...
The entire climb is in there somewhere. You can see some of the ice steps. The bottom right was open water with a heavy flow of water.
Credit: bergbryce

We rapped in to the bottom per Climbski2's pic. There was a huge, nice platform to start from with a large pool of open water next to it. The ice was good at the bottom but painfully short. Fortunately this line offered more challenges than the steepness of the ice.
From the base.
Real ice in Nevada!  Only painfully short.   <br/>
Good sticks though.
Real ice in Nevada! Only painfully short.
Good sticks though.
Credit: bergbryce

You can see where the open pool was in the bottom right of the previous picture. The shiny looking parts of the ice are sections of very thin ice made of spray. Each had a firehose of water spraying behind it which actually made the climbing a lot more exciting.
Our route went into the snice left of the actual ice once above the initial blob. This was also made more interesting as I think I was basically climbing on ice crusted willow branches with some snow plastered onto it. The ice was thin at that point and falling through there would not have been good.

Here are some more pics of the strange ice formations we found...

Hollow "pillar"
Hollow "pillar"
Credit: bergbryce

This "pillar" is probably .5 inch thick and enclosed the main flow of water. You can see this feature in the upper right of the previous pic. It was really cool to look at but would not have supported a climber.

After a tiny bit of real ice, a bit of snice/frozen willows/snow there was a short section of steep snow and then the real fun, a mixed section!

I saw the perfect belay stance which was a huge tree just entering the sun about 70' above where the ice ended. It ended up being a fun section involving show excavation, gardening, crampon scraping, blind hooking and general winter funness.

The excavation/gardening section.
The excavation/gardening section.
Credit: bergbryce

After Climbski2 got up we completed a very ice climbing-like rap through lots of snow, much of it which went down the back of my shirt, through lots of brush and in a cold, shady area. We both agreed the effort was well worth it despite the climb not being in the best form.

We hiked out sharing stories of mutual climbing friends we had from Anchorage, following the friendly bear tracks once again.

Really pretty up there right now.
Washoe Valley of Nevada, January 2013.
Washoe Valley of Nevada, January 2013.
Credit: bergbryce

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
thanks for the TR! Sorry the conditions were such- but ya got what you could out of it. I thought it might be way better than our ascent. Ours went from the creek bottom to the crags on the left at the top. But there was a lot less snow bitd..Perhaps thats a critical diff right now..

But non the less your probably the second ever sets of ice tools to nick it! So bonus "unique" points!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 4, 2013 - 07:18pm PT
Ice is nice and should suffice.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
I do remember well the water running under neath the ice on the bottom section when we did it, but the top was THICK ice all the way to the top.

Maybe after a little melt it will form up better..?
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Jan 4, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
I think it's got too much water flowing right now. If it had less volume, it might have a better chance at forming something continuous. It's got a lot of snow on it too. The upper parts probably have more ice but were buried in some places waist deep.

I also get the feeling it forms up semi-regularly, at least whenever there is a cold snap of maybe 5 nights in single digits, which might not happen that often down there. It's got a perfect setting and that canyon doesn't get a bit of sun right now.
I've certainly got the ice bug and it looks like the next week or so is supposed to be good for it!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 4, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
well done! cool report!
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