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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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climb because you have fun climbing
best advice so far.
Go for routes that you get excited about. As others said, bouldering can get you strong. But I think it also can help you with head game when boulders are tall. Do more trad to help you with your head...or go ice climbing lol.
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slevin
Trad climber
NYC, NY
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Okay, here goes...He bailed from 5 EFFING 4! Exposure does all sorts of tricks to your head, especially if the climbing does not feel secure. My old G/F bailed off Squiggles (yup, 5.4) in the Gunks while on an hour earlier she got up the Trashcan Overhang (5.11/V2) on top rope.
Oh, as bouldering goes. Do it, it does make you strong but does nothing for your leading head. I boulder way harder stuff then I would ever lead, even sport. Though, if you are chasing numbers, there are many 5.11/5.12s that are actually boulder problems which continue into an easy route, e.g. Gunks is full of these. Also, bouldering is a door that's pretty hard to close. Once you discover that you can move on rock without the hassle of ropes/racks/belays, you might never go back :D
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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If this is the 5.4, i don't blame ya
Hotlinked from mp
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Don't be discouraged, Devils Lake is as sandbagged as they get.
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mike526
Trad climber
schaumburg, il
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2013 - 08:35am PT
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Big Mike Which route is that kinda looks like it. I bailed off Queens throne of all the climbs. Plenty of pro Lots of good stances, just looked down and was like oh sh#t.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Lots of folks have been that guy, mike526....I'd say just hang at one of those stances for a minute, set a good nut or whatever, BREATHE, and set off again. Confidence ain't immediate for most people. You must encourage its growth. Just like anything you plant.
It will bloom if you keep after it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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It's called easy comfort route. And it doesn't look all that easy ;)
Queen's Throne is #41
This one looks cool too! Were you comfortable that your gear would hold? Have you played with weighting your gear yet?
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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"The scariest climb I ever led was 5.4 at J-Tree." ;)
-Anonymous Hard-Man-
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