question about setting climbing goals


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Trad climber
schaumburg, il
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 30, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
I have a goal to get my trad level at devils lake up to the 5.8 level this coming year. My question is should I also work on climbing hard sport routes or top rope harder routes, or is concentrating on one thing the best approach. I would love to sport lead an 11 but is working on trad and sport at the same time to much or work against each other in any way.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 30, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
do climbs you like or you think you are going to like
do the climbs that are noteworthy at their ratings
but basically climb, and learn from your successes as well as your failures

climb because you have fun climbing

if you are stuck, find someone willing to lead the climb and work on being a good second, apprentice yourself

then when you have the skillz, you can go out and lead those same climbs

That's a trad approach, but it seems to work

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Dec 30, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
An old Venezuelan master helped me install a couple mind knobs many years ago... mine go to 11. I definitely have to fine tune them when I switch back and forth. To push your limits on sport (or TR) you HAVE to be willing to push your limits until you fall, something you don't always want to do tard climbing. But if the tard climb you want to lead takes good protection all the way, you certainly don't need to worry about your "do not fall" knob. Just get strong and confident moving around on rock and have at it.

edit: When I learned to lead trad I would follow anyone on anything. Pay attention to how the pieces are placed as you remove them. Then take a rack and go place a bunch close to the ground. Bounce test each placement and see how it reacts... wear eye protection and be prepared to land on your ass.

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 30, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
I would say if you want to have confidence leading trad routes, climb(tr or lower fifth class) as many trad routes as you can.

Way out there....
Dec 30, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
Bouldering will make you strong, sport will give you endurance, trad will give you a good head. DO ALL THREE AND CLIMB LIKE A BEAST.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 31, 2012 - 11:01am PT
Devils Lake, based on my memories, is a tough area to learn difficult except for a few crack lines.
Climbing is climbing.....body posistion, balance etc. same whether trad or sport. DL is largely a top rope area, work on your technique, lead the lines available where protection is decent and then...........roadtrip baby!

Dec 31, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
don't get discouraged by the learning curve. it can be frustrating these days with kids cranking 5.12 after two years of climbing. i took me five years of climbing almost every day before i could lead 5.10 trad solidly. don't get caught up in ratings or numberchasing and realize that you have good days and bad days. you'll cruise a 10b thin crack one day and get spanked on a 5.8 slab the next. don't let it get to you and just keep getting mileage.

Social climber
Jan 1, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
hey there, say, all...

just a bump for mike526, for more neat info...


Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 1, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
Yeah, Chinchen! I think you gotta do them all to be well-rounded! Nothing better than flexing those bouldering muscles on a longer route! ;)

Bouldering helps with the mental aspects (confidence/fear management) as well!

Way out there....
Jan 1, 2013 - 01:22pm PT

Trad climber
schaumburg, il
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
Well if anyone wants an update i bailed off a 5effing4 yesterday. Looking back at it my head got the best of me done the climb million times on TR but once above gear my head was thinking negative thoughts.


Gym climber
sawatch choss
Apr 7, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
Solo easy stuff and boulder. What easy means is up to you.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Apr 7, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
a successful bail is just that..a success. good job getting out there and back.
Big Mike

Trad climber
Apr 7, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
Not dying is a success!! ;) climb climb climb. Be confident in your gear that it will hold. If you're not become comfortable. Place gear on top rope. Throw a sling on the quickdraw and stand on it. Stand on every one all the way up. Know it will hold.

Then you can let it go and just climb without worry. Donini said it, go somewhere there is lots of easy pro, Red Rocks, The Valley, Squamish. You can place almost anywhere a lot of the time and be confident.

Did i say climb yet?

Good luck. I gotta learn how to climb again too. at least i can still remember how to do it!!

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Apr 7, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
Try gabapentin or viagra ;)
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Apr 7, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
The guy is trying to get to the 5.8 level and someone is telling him to solo 'easy' stuff.

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Apr 7, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
It all makes sense.

If you can solo 5.9 it should be easy to lead 5.8 ;)
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Apr 7, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
That's funny :>) THAT'S what I'm talkin about!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 7, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
Okay, here goes...He bailed from 5 EFFING 4!

I've never led 5.4. I skipped it and went directly to 5.7.

Dude, I'm so sorry.

Try harder!

And check the dates on the Viagara or whatever.

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Apr 7, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
Wise man say that it is one thing to push your climbing limits, and to push your protection placement skillset. But it's a bad idea to push your limits at both skills at the same time.

Try gabapentin

aka Neurontin, an anticonvulsent and sedative. Useful when thinking is of little importance. Anyone nuts enough to follow this advice ought to have his head examined. I carry a little black bag, but his shithe ain't in it.
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