A Free Shield?

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Messages 21 - 26 of total 26 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
coz

Mountain climber
Northern surly
Dec 29, 2012 - 09:02am PT
I think large parts could go free.

But like Karl said the blank sections on the Tripe Cracks???

U might be able to work away around the roof.

But it would be a Serenity Crack on steroids just climbing pin holes.

But possible, I'd say, not by me, but Alex, Tommy, one of those guys.

Really the future of ElCap free routes is on the right side. Just have to sort out protection and ethics.

My birthday? TBum thanks for asking.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 29, 2012 - 09:10am PT
It would be ugly as sh#t campusing from scar to scar.

If the technique of nailing the route had continued, the scars would have gotten big enough to free climb eventually, but now, with it getting climbed 95% clean, the scars aren't getting too much worse too fast.
coz

Mountain climber
Northern surly
Dec 29, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
Climbing thread little interest?

Better to talk about Wes and guns, and anything else but climbing.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Dec 29, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
Maybe... Scar it up a bit?








JUST KIDDING!! ;)
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 29, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
Actually, the first pitch above the roof would go free and it would be freakin stellar!
coz

Mountain climber
Northern surly
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
Mark,

I think you could work some variation around the roof. Maybe the roof itself would go free, but the pitch after would be incredible! Then the groove, the Triple Cracks, would go on big dynos to sloppers as Jim said.

The upper Shield would probably go free at 13D maybe a bit of 14 on pin scars.

An all free Shield is possible...

I think the bigger modern El Cap free routes would go on the right side if looking with free eyes.

Combining established routes with unclimbed terrain.



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