A Free Shield?

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic

WanderlustMD

Trad climber

New England

Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 28, 2012 - 01:36pm PT

I've never climbed it, but after seeing how much progress has been made on the Dawn Wall and other EC aid lines, I started wondering: has anyone ever tried to free climb the Shield? How do you think it would compare to other free routes on El Cap?

TrundleBum

Trad climber

Las Vegas

Dec 28, 2012 - 01:59pm PT

One in every crowd ^ ^ ^

(BTW Coz ~ what are we going to free climb on your B-Day ? ;)

TrundleBum

Trad climber

Las Vegas

Dec 28, 2012 - 02:00pm PT

Excuse me (Locker got in before I posted)

There's always more than one in every crowd !

Aloha Locker.

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber

Old and Broken Down in Appalachia

Dec 28, 2012 - 02:02pm PT

LESSON of the DAY!!

Friggin' hilarious!

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Dec 28, 2012 - 04:09pm PT

Just offhand the groove pitch seems unlikely.

Patrick Sawyer

climber

Originally California now Ireland

Dec 28, 2012 - 04:41pm PT

Back to the OP question and not the thread drift. Of course, I have never done the Shield, but I remember when Charlie put it up. Ballsy. It would be some feat to free it. Ballsy.

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Dec 28, 2012 - 05:10pm PT

I could see the groove going, cause it's a groove, but there's some blank to thin overhanging stuff up there that might be a deal killer, and the shield roof...

peace

Karl

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Dec 28, 2012 - 05:15pm PT

Not in our lifetimes.

Scole

Trad climber

Joshua Tree

Dec 28, 2012 - 10:10pm PT

The roof might be kind of difficult

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Dec 28, 2012 - 10:30pm PT

Ok now that we have concluded that it is impossible some one needs to go free it without adding bolts.

Please vid ur attempt... I wanna see some serious airtime

WBraun

climber

Dec 28, 2012 - 10:36pm PT

It'll go no problem.

Stupid Americans can't think for themselves.

They only listen to stupid lab coats.

All you have to do is be reborn in your next life as an insect.

Then you can free it and get eaten at the top by a bird.

Stupid climbers ....

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Dec 28, 2012 - 11:04pm PT

That V13 move at the top of the twelth pitch could be a stopper. I've always had a problem sticking a dyno onto a slippery sloper.

Fogarty

climber

BITD

Dec 28, 2012 - 11:13pm PT

No, FINAL ANSWER!

James

climber

My twin brother's laundry room

Dec 28, 2012 - 11:43pm PT

The Leaning Tower bolt ladder variation logs in around 9a+. All the moves have gone. People thought that would be impossible. One summer, Ivo walked around the Camp 4 parking lot, swinging some ice axes, "Dudely, Grivel sent me these axes because I am going to dry tool the shield." The axes went up and down. "It's gonna be sick Dudely!"

Patrick Sawyer

climber

Originally California now Ireland

Dec 29, 2012 - 08:54am PT

Werner, wouldn't be easier for a lizard to free The Shield than an insect?

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Dec 29, 2012 - 10:17am PT

Who needs a rope when you have wings?

Gotta be a lizard, but who says it isn't already a trade route for them?

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Dec 29, 2012 - 12:10pm PT

It would be ugly as sh#t campusing from scar to scar.

If the technique of nailing the route had continued, the scars would have gotten big enough to free climb eventually, but now, with it getting climbed 95% clean, the scars aren't getting too much worse too fast.