A Free Shield?

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Messages 1 - 26 of total 26 in this topic
WanderlustMD

Trad climber
New England
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 28, 2012 - 10:36am PT
I've never climbed it, but after seeing how much progress has been made on the Dawn Wall and other EC aid lines, I started wondering: has anyone ever tried to free climb the Shield? How do you think it would compare to other free routes on El Cap?
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 28, 2012 - 10:52am PT

LESSON of the DAY!!




photo not found
Missing photo ID#277234
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 28, 2012 - 10:57am PT


Not a FREE shield...

But ONLY a couple of bucks...


...

TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Dec 28, 2012 - 10:59am PT

One in every crowd ^ ^ ^

(BTW Coz ~ what are we going to free climb on your B-Day ? ;)
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Dec 28, 2012 - 11:00am PT

Excuse me (Locker got in before I posted)

There's always more than one in every crowd !

Aloha Locker.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Dec 28, 2012 - 11:02am PT
LESSON of the DAY!!

Friggin' hilarious!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 28, 2012 - 11:37am PT
Well, you were talking about that 3 pitch climb in the, Sun,
Trundle.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#280972


climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 28, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
Just offhand the groove pitch seems unlikely.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Dec 28, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
Back to the OP question and not the thread drift. Of course, I have never done the Shield, but I remember when Charlie put it up. Ballsy. It would be some feat to free it. Ballsy.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 28, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
I could see the groove going, cause it's a groove, but there's some blank to thin overhanging stuff up there that might be a deal killer, and the shield roof...

peace

Karl
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 28, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
Not in our lifetimes.
Scole

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Dec 28, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
The roof might be kind of difficult
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 28, 2012 - 07:30pm PT
Ok now that we have concluded that it is impossible some one needs to go free it without adding bolts.

Please vid ur attempt... I wanna see some serious airtime
WBraun

climber
Dec 28, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
It'll go no problem.

Stupid Americans can't think for themselves.

They only listen to stupid lab coats.

All you have to do is be reborn in your next life as an insect.

Then you can free it and get eaten at the top by a bird.

Stupid climbers ....
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 28, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
That V13 move at the top of the twelth pitch could be a stopper. I've always had a problem sticking a dyno onto a slippery sloper.
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Dec 28, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
No, FINAL ANSWER!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 28, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
Where's Alex?

:)
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Dec 28, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
The Leaning Tower bolt ladder variation logs in around 9a+. All the moves have gone. People thought that would be impossible. One summer, Ivo walked around the Camp 4 parking lot, swinging some ice axes, "Dudely, Grivel sent me these axes because I am going to dry tool the shield." The axes went up and down. "It's gonna be sick Dudely!"
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:54am PT
Werner, wouldn't be easier for a lizard to free The Shield than an insect?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Dec 29, 2012 - 07:17am PT
Who needs a rope when you have wings?

Gotta be a lizard, but who says it isn't already a trade route for them?
coz

Mountain climber
Northern surly
Dec 29, 2012 - 09:02am PT
I think large parts could go free.

But like Karl said the blank sections on the Tripe Cracks???

U might be able to work away around the roof.

But it would be a Serenity Crack on steroids just climbing pin holes.

But possible, I'd say, not by me, but Alex, Tommy, one of those guys.

Really the future of ElCap free routes is on the right side. Just have to sort out protection and ethics.

My birthday? TBum thanks for asking.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 29, 2012 - 09:10am PT
It would be ugly as sh#t campusing from scar to scar.

If the technique of nailing the route had continued, the scars would have gotten big enough to free climb eventually, but now, with it getting climbed 95% clean, the scars aren't getting too much worse too fast.
coz

Mountain climber
Northern surly
Dec 29, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
Climbing thread little interest?

Better to talk about Wes and guns, and anything else but climbing.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Dec 29, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
Maybe... Scar it up a bit?








JUST KIDDING!! ;)
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 29, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
Actually, the first pitch above the roof would go free and it would be freakin stellar!
coz

Mountain climber
Northern surly
Dec 29, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
Mark,

I think you could work some variation around the roof. Maybe the roof itself would go free, but the pitch after would be incredible! Then the groove, the Triple Cracks, would go on big dynos to sloppers as Jim said.

The upper Shield would probably go free at 13D maybe a bit of 14 on pin scars.

An all free Shield is possible...

I think the bigger modern El Cap free routes would go on the right side if looking with free eyes.

Combining established routes with unclimbed terrain.



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