Rock removal in Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 165 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
I use both.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
Fair enough.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
EA does not equal done deal... one of the key words being Assessment.

You can count on me for a letter. My main concerns (which are easily addressed by people who know what they are doing, namely me) are:

Channel stability as a head cut could seriously affect access to the mid-canyon climbing areas. But if they stay to the N of the channel and just take rock off the colluvial wedge/debris flow, there won't be a problem.

Hillslope stability, which could cause gullying on the steep, loose colluvial material.

Future expansion of more intense mining activities.

The proper excavation of 6+' boulders to ensure flat landings and the strategic placement of accidental scars that may facilitate huge overhanging jug hauls.


I know plenty of people who gem hunt around these parts. You tend to get good crystals around the nonconformity between the underlying granitic rock and the younger overlying volcanic rock.



And BTW, I am going flash the sh#t out of Led Zep arete this spring... flash it like it was your mamma.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
Nahhh Kenny,, Rick DOES make valid and correct points about commerce..

I simply think there are far better areas to do this sort of thing that wont impact a very visible and popular recreational area..

I shudder to think of some sob with pry bars and a winch at the base of LZA.. Those locations are some of the few pull outs there- even camping spots.



Let em go to the VALLEY,, plenty o boulders easily gotten there!;-D


and Wes,, isnt an EA all that is required for the "small" operation? I did a whole timber sale beetle cut up blu lakes rd with only an EA..




and i hope you do Wes.. But the missing bolts still haven been re-installed. Im sure its right up yer alley.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
Brandon, were lucky around here most of the real stone I use comes from the excavation of the site nd is beutiful
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
Ron, don't you think this is going to happen anyway as ongoing maintenance of the hwy, and slopes? Why not applaud it and concentrate on other real planned "improvements" in the area that would really have serious detrimental effect on the asthetics of the canyon. By going on record as approving such a minor measure you will have a credible platform to voice a vision of keeping the canyon in as pristine a state as reasonably possible. Now if we could just do something about the out of contol bolting and manufactured routes in the area...... p.s. am i wrong-are they going to go out of the slope area to any appreciable extent?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
Can we count on you for a letter there Jebus?

Rick, did you forget to take your meds this morning? go over to the politard threads your opinion may be appreciated there.


Yes, Kenny. I would just ask they take in mind climbing concerns there and not take down developed climbs. Obviously, they wouldn't be going all the way up to the bigger climbs, but they could impact access.

People asking why Ron is reacting should consider Woodfords is his Yosemite. And, damn, the place is special!

Good luck on flashing the Led Zep Arete, Wes! I heard it was missing a bolt or two, so you better kick Footloose's ass into gear, I believe he's on the job.

At the very least, isn't asking that we climbers submit our concerns a good idea? Nothing against capitalism, just making sure Wes can continue his orgy of sends seems to warrant a little input. I wouldn't want him thrusting empty air without means of release.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
and Wes,, isnt an EA all that is required for the "small" operation? I did a whole timber sale beetle cut up blu lakes rd with only an EA..

No you didn't. You also had to get approval based on the findings of that EA.

and i hope you do Wes.. But the missing bolts still haven been re-installed.

Bolts, or hangers? If it is just hangers, I will be sure to bring some and rig it up. If it is bolts... I'd have to talk to the FA party before dealing with that, and I've heard he's kind of a weird old gun nut.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
Where are the overbolted and manufactured routes you speak of? I wanna check them out!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
I love how Rick is all for removal of granite, yet apparently opposed to bolts.

Huh?
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
I will buy some of the rocks.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
Led Zep arete could be fixed up in about 45 min. that includes the 30 second approach. we went up there in the early nineties and there were no bolts up higher then. so we toproped
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
OOOUUUUuuuuwwwch! ;-)

Rick,, what about on the way to Taqshietz?? Safe to say one could harvest all but un noticed out there for decades.

I agree with you commerce approach and harvesting, but not right above camp grounds or camping areas that are also approach starts. This isnt highway shoulder maintenance nor does it fall on Cal trans right of ways.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
Ron, One of the areas is at the woodcutters parking pretty much out of the hwy right of way. I built the house downstream directly down from cal trans.they wouldn't let us go over the hwy with power because it's considered a scenic corridor
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
Led Zep arete could be fixed up in about 45 min. that includes the 30 second approach. we went up there in the early nineties and there were no bolts up higher then. so we toproped


Man, I want to project that piece! There's a lot of talk on the re-bolting of that climb. FOOOOTTLOOOOOSSEEE!!!! Hahaha... For me, that will be a project though, as my orgiastic air humping is much weaker than Wes' in the scrote show of sendage.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
Kenny iv'e never paid much attention to the names of the formations but in the lower canyon is a 130' crack climb on perfect rock, with a perfectly protectable crack that is bolted every 10 feet-about 5.8 i would imagine. Up canyon about a half mile is an overhanging orange wall with artificial gym holds and grid bolted= both of these are on the southfacing side of the canyon.It doesn't bother me too much since i can easily climb the crack with natural protection and i am far from capable of climbing the overhanging wall by any combination of available artificial holds.However this practice could rob future generations of other climbs, as standards slowly rise, if carried to an extreme.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
Bandit crag. I forgot yeah kind of ridiculous. Footloose was looking for some stainless hangers a while back ago and I recomended those. the Epoxy wall....Not my cup of tea but since Dan isn't around to defend his project wall we can leave that one alone
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
Aye chi wa wa, I'm getting an icecream headache.

There are some bolts and artificial holds, so carte blanche on stone is called? I would shudder to think where that would leave Yosemite since chipping, bolt ladders, and crack scarring have all been part of the game there at one time or another.

Can we (rock climbers, ferchrissakes) merely agree that the goal of ensuring no harm to climbable stone is a good thing?
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
Ron, i stand corrected if these harvest areas are not on slopes from which loose rocks naturally trundle onto the hwy.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 23, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
I gave some bolts and hangers to Shawn i believe. But as of late fall they werent replaced yet.. 2 3/8 x 2.5 with hangers are needed..

Now,, we did discuss moving the location of the 4th bolt as not to need the fifth, but then we decided that you could clip one, or the other , or both wasnt bad either. If anyone else cares to re install them, the holes are there- i was planning on it this fall but alas i didnt getter done.

Perhaps ill get to it in the spring.


Its a gnarly thirty second approach, you gotta duck a couple of willows on the way..

Go there, feel the CHI that Dano left.. And ENJOY!





edit: Rick,, yes the Bandit crag is the bolted crack, which was done as early as 77 by moi. Undocumneted though as it was the start of a long and wandering affair we did.

The Epoxy wall was done by Dano BITD. One small chunk of feature less overhanging granite. It was highly controversial even then, but none the less enjoyed by many. It wasnt repeated elsewhere, just that single chunk in tiers of broken granite there. If you look, we believe its the spot where Bertha boulder came from. It was the 80s when envelopes were being pushed i suppose..
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