martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Naw 5.11 isn't that hard. Look at this cat, he doesn't even need protection.
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jstan
climber
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One arm pullups... that's so 1980s
Uh . . . make that 1950s.
Spoken by the person who awed many generations. Who made one arms look like simple gracefulness. A wonderful conjunction. The most incredible conjunction of all.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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I haven't read the whole thread but at your size and weight 5.11 face climbing might be the way to break on through to that level. I consider 5.11 very hard plus, hard to figure out.
Get a climbing partner who does 5.11s and follow them up things. You can make it.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Dec 10, 2012 - 08:55am PT
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If history is any example, the 5.10 you do today will be rated 5.11 in a few years. As has been said above, find what you like, be it types of climbs, location of climbs, particular friends to climb with, and go for it. You'll be pushing the envelope a lot quicker if what you are attaining is what you enjoy.
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locker
Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
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Dec 10, 2012 - 09:17am PT
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A 5.11 move...
...
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Dec 10, 2012 - 09:32am PT
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SO the answer is... "No, but it's not that easy either"?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Dec 10, 2012 - 09:54am PT
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Good advice upthread. As noted, strength to weight ratio, in addition to lots of practice, is critical. Re read Jstans excellent post.
Dave Kos, the company is called "5.11 tactical" cause that's what Royal Robbins named it.
"I asked some old people ...they were ..like...35...gnar is that stuff between yer toes after a long day of climbing without socks."
I believe that "the Gnar" is actually located under yer testies and under yer foreskin, and is substantially more prevalent on a 3 week climbing trip sans any showers. At least that's what I heard. "Shredding the Gnar", is what a dude does when he can't get a woman and is in "need".
As far as anyone who could actually "shred" rock, John Long was the only known animal, and he's currently laid up.
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mike526
Trad climber
schaumburg, il
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2012 - 09:01am PT
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Man worked out this week and thought i ate half decently, only to step on the scale after a week to see i gained two pounds WTF, discouraging to say the least. Oh well stick with it and see what happens next week.
thanks everyone for the advice.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 15, 2012 - 09:05am PT
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Muscle is heavier than fat.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Dec 15, 2012 - 09:18am PT
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climb with people much better then you. It'll bring your game up
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Dec 15, 2012 - 09:18am PT
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I maybe repeating stuff already posted.
Finger strength and technique are more important that your weight IMO. Yes the best climbers are usually wiry guys, but there's been thicker guys, not fat but not thin, who climb pretty well. If you are not built to be thin it is very tough to try to stay thin.
For training climb at your limit until failure. i.e. keep trying 11s and keep falling off them, don't just run laps on 5.9, just be careful of injuries (exercise the forearm extensors to keep them in balance with the flexors which get worked when climbing). Don't go for endurance, go for strength in your training.
Bouldering is an excellent way to do this type of training.
The hardest climbs I've done have been projects. Something I've tried over and over until I work out the moves and gain the needed strength from doing the moves over and over on different days until I get it.
Try harder climbs that are a style that you are best at. I'm best at slightly overhanging cracks or slightly overhanging blocky face climbs.
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The user formerly known as stzzo
climber
Sneaking up behind you
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Dec 15, 2012 - 09:25am PT
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Ditto what Hudon said.
It's not uncommon to maintain or gain weight over a period when you work out, even while losing fat.
The only real measure is BMI. There's fat on the inside and under all your skin, too, so it's possible to still be trimming down without seeing results in your waist.
Also, two pounds isn't much. Always weigh with empty stomach and nude. I weighed before and after a workout the other day and had "gained" .8 pounds, probably from the water I drank during.
Perseverance!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Dec 15, 2012 - 09:58am PT
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Hudon: Muscle is heavier than fat.
That explains my 207.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Dec 15, 2012 - 10:11am PT
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So someone explain to me.... 30 years ago we all worked like hell and only a few ever got to 5.11... The only place I could hit 5.11 was on glacier point apron.
Why is it that nowadays every Joe Blow is climbing 5.11 right out their diapers?
P.S.
30 years ago I watched Barry Bates do multiple 1-finger pullups
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