Is 5.11 really that hard


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Dec 10, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
Good advice upthread. As noted, strength to weight ratio, in addition to lots of practice, is critical. Re read Jstans excellent post.

Dave Kos, the company is called "5.11 tactical" cause that's what Royal Robbins named it.

"I asked some old people ...they were is that stuff between yer toes after a long day of climbing without socks."

I believe that "the Gnar" is actually located under yer testies and under yer foreskin, and is substantially more prevalent on a 3 week climbing trip sans any showers. At least that's what I heard. "Shredding the Gnar", is what a dude does when he can't get a woman and is in "need".

As far as anyone who could actually "shred" rock, John Long was the only known animal, and he's currently laid up.

Trad climber
schaumburg, il
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
Man worked out this week and thought i ate half decently, only to step on the scale after a week to see i gained two pounds WTF, discouraging to say the least. Oh well stick with it and see what happens next week.

thanks everyone for the advice.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 15, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
Muscle is heavier than fat.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Dec 15, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
climb with people much better then you. It'll bring your game up
the Fet

Dec 15, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
I maybe repeating stuff already posted.

Finger strength and technique are more important that your weight IMO. Yes the best climbers are usually wiry guys, but there's been thicker guys, not fat but not thin, who climb pretty well. If you are not built to be thin it is very tough to try to stay thin.

For training climb at your limit until failure. i.e. keep trying 11s and keep falling off them, don't just run laps on 5.9, just be careful of injuries (exercise the forearm extensors to keep them in balance with the flexors which get worked when climbing). Don't go for endurance, go for strength in your training.

Bouldering is an excellent way to do this type of training.

The hardest climbs I've done have been projects. Something I've tried over and over until I work out the moves and gain the needed strength from doing the moves over and over on different days until I get it.

Try harder climbs that are a style that you are best at. I'm best at slightly overhanging cracks or slightly overhanging blocky face climbs.
The user formerly known as stzzo

Sneaking up behind you
Dec 15, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
Ditto what Hudon said.

It's not uncommon to maintain or gain weight over a period when you work out, even while losing fat.

The only real measure is BMI. There's fat on the inside and under all your skin, too, so it's possible to still be trimming down without seeing results in your waist.

Also, two pounds isn't much. Always weigh with empty stomach and nude. I weighed before and after a workout the other day and had "gained" .8 pounds, probably from the water I drank during.

Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Dec 15, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
Hudon: Muscle is heavier than fat.

That explains my 207.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Dec 15, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
So someone explain to me.... 30 years ago we all worked like hell and only a few ever got to 5.11... The only place I could hit 5.11 was on glacier point apron.

Why is it that nowadays every Joe Blow is climbing 5.11 right out their diapers?

30 years ago I watched Barry Bates do multiple 1-finger pullups
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