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Messages 1 - 43 of total 43 in this topic |
jjl3
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 7, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
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So I'm finally graduating and moving back to 'Merica after five years in Vancouver. I've done all the research on the prospective jobs, but I am having trouble with the most important part - the climbing. I've been to Joshua Tree and Yosemite before, so what I'm really interested in is the "local" climbing - after work crags, etc., in the following areas:
Bay Area
LA
Orange County
San Diego
Davis
For what its worth I prefer trad climbing but I'm ok with sport climbing, and well, bouldering still beats the gym.
Thanks!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Move to the East Side for a while for full value. You can do anything there from bouldering to sport to multipitch to hang gliding to parasailing to you name it.
If you have a career, then place yourself within weekends of the valley. San Diego has unreal bouldering.
I hated southern California. Everyone is so cool there. You have to act cool. In the boonies you can just be yourself. I came from the plains, so the ocean of concrete that is Los Angeles really depressed me.
That said, California has everything you could possibly want.
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Southern Ca. is full and...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Chatsworth California is where you otta be....Porn capital of the world. (although the LA government is trying to run them out, just like they have done to most industries)
But IMHO.... depending on just what you "DO" the "east side", like has been said, would be the killer location, unless you love- need cultural diversions.
Ill speak for LA... if your going to have a regular 9-5 job try to have a short commute. All the time sitting on FWYS going noewhere is lost, waisted time.
I have a 20 min drive, and Stoney Point is on the way. So I stop in almost every day. Living on the north end of the BEAST its easy to hit the road on Friday and Lone Pine is just over 3 hrs, South Sierra 2.5, the Valley 5 so its not to bad.
I always shead a tear for the folks who live in Orange county whenever I exit the 405 at my exit and think about the added 1.5 hours or more that they require to get home.
welcome to the jungle, we got fun n games.
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sempervirens
climber
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If you ski you'd probably like Truckee. Has climbing at Donner Summit-20 minutes dirve. Damn good skiing... for California. We don't often get nice dry powder. It's convenient to Reno and Sacramento for flights out and other city stuff. But housing is expensive. I live an hour north of Truckee and housing is dirt cheap, but no climbing to speak of other than a couple choss piles here and there.
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whitemeat
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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San Luis Obispo!!!
close to everything and some pretty great climbing
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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One thing that would help is what profession are you heading towards. From the areas you put forth, places like the East side won't work for you.
Care to give us a hint?
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yosemite 5.9
climber
santa cruz
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Come to Santa Cruz. Everyone will be happy to tell you how to be politically correct!
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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This is the primary problem with California. There isn't really anywhere to live within good access of a good amount of quality climbing and have a decent job save for a few career options.
I suggest Reno.
Or maybe Sacramento with an emphasis on foothill communities like Auburn.
edited to add: Fresno
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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I wouldn't advise making a career decision based on after-work crags....
Here are some bouldering options, for *after* you decide:
Berkeley - Indian Rock (also closer to Yosemite, Tahoe and Jailhouse than south bay)
south bay - Castle Rock (but takes awhile to drive up the hill to reach it; more of a "dawn patrol" than after work)
Davis - Nut Tree boulders, Putah Creek (I haven't been to either of these places).
Look stuff up:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/105708959
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WBraun
climber
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Get a fricken job first.
Climbers are stupid.
just read Supertopo and you'll agree ....
;-)
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Gary
Social climber
Right outside of Delacroix
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Orange County has the best climate in the world. No argument.
As pointed out, you are buried down there.
The Pasadena area is not bad. Great hiking out your backdoor. You can start a multiday backpack by just walking out your front door. On the edge of the big city for quick weekend get aways to Josh, Southern Sierra, Eastern Sierra, Tahquitz, and the desert.
Great food, you name the cuisine, it's in LA.
Great music, of all kinds: jazz, blues, rock, hip-hop, and the LA Philharmonic is the most forward thinking orchestra in the world. They play Zappa, fer chrisakes. And the quality of the free music is mindblowing.
Great museums. The Norton Simon is Pasadena is an unkown treasure. It's cheap admission, and worth it to go and trip on van Gogh.
Los Angeles is the best mountain town in the country. Just don't try to get over to the West Side.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Moreno Valley, close to, JT, idyllwil, rubidoux, big rock, cheap houses, but a hellish commute. Gotta set your priorites. If you want to climb east side, want to work, LA, OC.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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El Portal or Lee Vining, everything else is just so much clap trap.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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San Diego is a great place to "live", but you've got a drive to get to any serious climbing. 2-3 hours ... 5-7 hours ... Then, Warbler has been lying to us all along?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Did somebody upthread actually discourage San Diego as a good place for after-work climbing and weekend access to major crags? Uh...yes! He's right! These are not the boulders you seek! Move along.
I can speak from the tough experience of growing up and learning to climb in SD, it's pretty bogus. Easier access to Stony Point would have been a major bonus.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Two thumbs up, Dingster!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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If you're planning on moving anywhere south of the grapevine, just kill yourself, you'll want to eventually anyway. Unless you like big cities. If so, we don't think the same so no advice. Otherwise, central valley (Fresno-Visalia area)! You'll understand why once you live here.
Lots of good jobs too 'cause most college grads go elsewhere and leave them for the rest of us (depending on what field your looking for) :)
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
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For accessibility and nice weather, I third the Pasadena area. Lived here for years and I'm now up the hill in Altadena... closer to the mountains and when it's snowing way up high, you get the feeling it almost might snow here. But leave it up there, much better place!
OC and San Diego are great places too. Especially if you are into general fitness activities. Whenever I'm in the San Diego area, it seems like every man, woman and child (and maybe dog) is a triathlete. If we ever move down that way, I'm gonna really have to get my butt in gear!
Good luck!
Eric
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Gary
Social climber
Right outside of Delacroix
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Otherwise, central valley (Fresno-Visalia area)! You'll understand why once you live here.
Oh yes, the paradise that is McFarland. Hey, it's only 6 miles to Delano from there!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Say what you want but I'm going snowboarding Sunday morning and climbing Sunday afternoon!
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Gary
Social climber
Right outside of Delacroix
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Sounds great!
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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The Bay and maybe even LA are much more doable if you've got an amenable schedule. Weekend warrior schedule, blah.
Consecutive days off that aren't weekends make some areas like the Bay area more acceptable and even attractive.
Having to deal with every other d-bag trying to get out of town on Friday evening gets old real quick. Id' take that into consideration.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
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My bro-in-law lives in Clovis, which is next to Fresno. I like it. And it's really close to some nice Sierra places. Just a hop, skip and a jump.
Eric
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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central valley will give you breathing problems after 10 years,
SF has good air but it is hell on earth to drive, and a big earthquake hit there last night, millions of dead people who thought they were somehow immune to plate tectonics,
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Sierra Foothills, Interstate 80 or Highway 50 corridor. Great access to climbing, skiing, kayaking and good paying jobs. I love it, at 3,ooo ft. I'm always above the valley fog and typcially below the snow line in winter. The transition seasons are fantastic but summer has the heat, our place in Apple Hill is about as low as I'd want to be given the heat.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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California has it all (not really, but close) but its all spread out over a wide expanse. Finding an ideal spot is troublesome.
What is your heat tolerance? Most of the state is too hot for me most and though not humid by Midwestern/eastern standards it Ain't, a dry heat!!
Culturally, the Bay Area is the place to be, Period. But that means weeken warriorhood (great selection of objectives) and gyms.
Living by crags? Eastside/Tahoe, including Reno.
What do you do for work? That's has a strong bearing....
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this just in
climber
north fork
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DMT, the only thing that could of made that post better is if was in the Russ rant format.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Sorry if I missed it, but what kind of work are you looking for? That will decide your location.
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MikeL
climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
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Get the job first if you're just graduating. Unless you've got some super-in-demand career skills (unlikely if coming out of school), your first job will be your best opportunity to point your career. After the first job your degrees of freedom will decline steadily. It's a tough job market anywhere.
(There will surely be those here who will say, "f*ck the job.")
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Michelle
Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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What Dingus said. This place sucks.
Go Tuolumne County.
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jstan
climber
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Take the best job.
One thing that I found really works well. Work double time for two months and then do two months off. You get more done plus when you get no break from work the politics seem entirely normal. Politics will be a bummer when you come back but within a week it will become normal again.
Your task structure may require another cycle time but once you are into double time it won't make any difference.
I've been double timing on ST now for six years. All the stuff here seems entirely normal.
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jjl3
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
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Well I'm back. About ten minutes after I made the original post I was talked into a three day ski trip. Just got back this morning...
I guess I've been spoiled...I've had a PhD student's schedule (no classes/my only deadline was "finish X amount of research within 3-5 years") and of course the ability to do 14 pitches of granite AFTER work for the last couple of years. Sadly that's coming to an end, and I'm actually going to have to work on other people's schedules, and at a large university hospital for the next two years. Since this is a residency (similar to what MDs do) in a growing field, all of the opportunities are pretty similar, so the biggest distinction to me is the location. By the way, Phoenix, Denver and Lexington, KY made the list, but I've been those places and got the feel for them.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 10, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
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Culturally, the Bay Area is the place to be, Period. The Bay area, while beautiful by any stretch (parts of it at least), is a ugly step sister to the LA's cultural scene. That argument has been hashed out, tit for tat, too many times to do again.
Other than that, I'd second Dr. F's basic conclusion about living/climbing in CA. Depending on which is a greater priority, the other is going to suffer. LA/SF great culture, weekend warrior climbing. Bishop great climbing, podunk culture/work. Pick your poison.
BTW, Costa Mesa is OK. Grew up there. Was there on Sat. visiting Mom. Love Pirate's Cove but, like much of the OC, there's not much too it. Pasadena is nice. Well located but the heat and smog during the summer months is a major drawback. Plus with Williamson closed a closest bigger venue is a no go.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
SLO, Ca
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Dec 10, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
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I'd go with Denver or SLC. If you are not ready to be a weekend warrior I'd skip California.
California has a lot going for it- proximity to after work good climbing in a place with an abundance of real jobs is not one of those things.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 10, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
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Depends on what your personal metrics and benchmarks are for evaluating a "cultural scene", Fat Dad. Paris vs. New York? LA vs. London? A blanket statement such as yours...boys, I dunno.
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Barbarian
Trad climber
New and Bionic too!
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Dec 10, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
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Orange County is a cultural and climbing wasteland. The longest routes in the county are in gyms. The longest waits in the county are on the freeway. Just remember: On any given Friday, the 14 million residients of SoCal are all trying to get away on the same 5 roads - 101, 5 No, 15, 10, or 5 So. Eagles were right - "You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave!"
Look elsewhere.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 10, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
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Depends on what your personal metrics and benchmarks are for evaluating a "cultural scene", Fat Dad. I totally agree. Part of my comment was just a knee jerk response to Jaybro's comment. Different strokes for different folks.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Dec 10, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
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Davis doesn't have much climbing, Vacaville boulders are local, about 15 minutes away.
Auburn, up highway 80, has some crags local, and many more within an hour drive.
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Dec 10, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
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and at a large university hospital for the next two years. Since this is a residency (similar to what MDs do) in a growing field, all of the opportunities are pretty similar, so the biggest distinction to me is the location.
Well, you're very limited....to those options.
If you are limited to medical school hospitals, there are 8, plus two more osteopathic schools, but I don't believe they have affiliated major hospitals.
If you go out to medical school affiliated hospitals, then you have quite a few more choices. But all remain in large urban areas. Fresno, Sylmar (no. San Fernando Valley) come into play.
"after work crags" for a busy person....Stoney Point? Rubedeau perhaps?
Maybe you want to live in Boulder........
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Dec 10, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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Actually, look at Camarillo or Thousand Oaks or Moorpark in North Western Los Angeles area. Close enough to the beach to get cooler summers but you are generally only adding a half hour or so to the drive to get out of town. As much as I love the weather in OC I would never live there.
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