Moving to California...But Where?

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jjl3

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 7, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
So I'm finally graduating and moving back to 'Merica after five years in Vancouver. I've done all the research on the prospective jobs, but I am having trouble with the most important part - the climbing. I've been to Joshua Tree and Yosemite before, so what I'm really interested in is the "local" climbing - after work crags, etc., in the following areas:

Bay Area

LA

Orange County

San Diego

Davis

For what its worth I prefer trad climbing but I'm ok with sport climbing, and well, bouldering still beats the gym.

Thanks!

BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
Move to the East Side for a while for full value. You can do anything there from bouldering to sport to multipitch to hang gliding to parasailing to you name it.

If you have a career, then place yourself within weekends of the valley. San Diego has unreal bouldering.

I hated southern California. Everyone is so cool there. You have to act cool. In the boonies you can just be yourself. I came from the plains, so the ocean of concrete that is Los Angeles really depressed me.

That said, California has everything you could possibly want.
neversummer

Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
Southern Ca. is full and...
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
nothing to see here, carry on.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 7, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
Chatsworth California is where you otta be....Porn capital of the world. (although the LA government is trying to run them out, just like they have done to most industries)

But IMHO.... depending on just what you "DO" the "east side", like has been said, would be the killer location, unless you love- need cultural diversions.

Ill speak for LA... if your going to have a regular 9-5 job try to have a short commute. All the time sitting on FWYS going noewhere is lost, waisted time.

I have a 20 min drive, and Stoney Point is on the way. So I stop in almost every day. Living on the north end of the BEAST its easy to hit the road on Friday and Lone Pine is just over 3 hrs, South Sierra 2.5, the Valley 5 so its not to bad.
I always shead a tear for the folks who live in Orange county whenever I exit the 405 at my exit and think about the added 1.5 hours or more that they require to get home.

welcome to the jungle, we got fun n games.
sempervirens

climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
If you ski you'd probably like Truckee. Has climbing at Donner Summit-20 minutes dirve. Damn good skiing... for California. We don't often get nice dry powder. It's convenient to Reno and Sacramento for flights out and other city stuff. But housing is expensive. I live an hour north of Truckee and housing is dirt cheap, but no climbing to speak of other than a couple choss piles here and there.
whitemeat

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
San Luis Obispo!!!
close to everything and some pretty great climbing

rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
One thing that would help is what profession are you heading towards. From the areas you put forth, places like the East side won't work for you.

Care to give us a hint?
yosemite 5.9

climber
santa cruz
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
Come to Santa Cruz. Everyone will be happy to tell you how to be politically correct!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
This is the primary problem with California. There isn't really anywhere to live within good access of a good amount of quality climbing and have a decent job save for a few career options.

I suggest Reno.
Or maybe Sacramento with an emphasis on foothill communities like Auburn.

edited to add: Fresno
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
I wouldn't advise making a career decision based on after-work crags....
Here are some bouldering options, for *after* you decide:
Berkeley - Indian Rock (also closer to Yosemite, Tahoe and Jailhouse than south bay)
south bay - Castle Rock (but takes awhile to drive up the hill to reach it; more of a "dawn patrol" than after work)
Davis - Nut Tree boulders, Putah Creek (I haven't been to either of these places).
Look stuff up:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/105708959
WBraun

climber
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:09am PT
Get a fricken job first.

Climbers are stupid.

just read Supertopo and you'll agree ....

;-)
Gary

Social climber
Right outside of Delacroix
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:15am PT
Orange County has the best climate in the world. No argument.

As pointed out, you are buried down there.

The Pasadena area is not bad. Great hiking out your backdoor. You can start a multiday backpack by just walking out your front door. On the edge of the big city for quick weekend get aways to Josh, Southern Sierra, Eastern Sierra, Tahquitz, and the desert.

Great food, you name the cuisine, it's in LA.

Great music, of all kinds: jazz, blues, rock, hip-hop, and the LA Philharmonic is the most forward thinking orchestra in the world. They play Zappa, fer chrisakes. And the quality of the free music is mindblowing.

Great museums. The Norton Simon is Pasadena is an unkown treasure. It's cheap admission, and worth it to go and trip on van Gogh.

Los Angeles is the best mountain town in the country. Just don't try to get over to the West Side.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:18am PT
Werner's got a point...
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:24am PT
Moreno Valley, close to, JT, idyllwil, rubidoux, big rock, cheap houses, but a hellish commute. Gotta set your priorites. If you want to climb east side, want to work, LA, OC.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:25am PT
El Portal or Lee Vining, everything else is just so much clap trap.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:31am PT
San Diego is a great place to "live", but you've got a drive to get to any serious climbing. 2-3 hours ... 5-7 hours ...
Then, Warbler has been lying to us all along?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:33am PT
Did somebody upthread actually discourage San Diego as a good place for after-work climbing and weekend access to major crags? Uh...yes! He's right! These are not the boulders you seek! Move along.

I can speak from the tough experience of growing up and learning to climb in SD, it's pretty bogus. Easier access to Stony Point would have been a major bonus.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:43am PT
Two thumbs up, Dingster!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:53am PT
If you're planning on moving anywhere south of the grapevine, just kill yourself, you'll want to eventually anyway. Unless you like big cities. If so, we don't think the same so no advice. Otherwise, central valley (Fresno-Visalia area)! You'll understand why once you live here.

Lots of good jobs too 'cause most college grads go elsewhere and leave them for the rest of us (depending on what field your looking for) :)

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