Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 7, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
To be fair, I know not the backstory of this uncomfortable video, but damn it to heck if it doesn't smack of inexperience... 5.10 in a gym and 5.10 outside are different!
I once heard a former coach (Summit Party Nor Cal) tell his kids that if they get pumped they should grab a draw and rest or clip into it. He told them this in ISO at a regional championship... I definitely see why gyms get a bad rep and do my best not to have that behavior in mine...
Nothing wrong with grabbing a draw to facilitate a clip if you are jazzed and feel that a fall is not safe. I think one of the key factors here was not knowing how to clip under stress.
As soon as you see that elbow flared out and slightly bent you know he's going to take a flyer.
Straight arm that and or if he was a little bit more experienced he might have thought about down climbing back to his last piece and not taken the fall with all the extra rope to clip in his hand.
No shame in grabbing a draw now and then, but the belay gloves, that is embarrassing.
You knew something terrible was going to happen as soon as you saw those.
I've definitely grabbed my fair share of draws in my time, but even when I've been totally blown I've always been able to hang onto it and clip the rope, especially when it's only vert, which is what it looks like here.
I'm astonished that he couldn't get the rope clipped. Dude, clip the f*#king rope! What the hell was he doing up there? I love how you can see the bite in his hand while he's falling.
I know of a few folks who tried to make a clip without grabbing the draw an ended up with a broken ankle. We have a stupid system with a bunch of stupid unwritten rules and it does not get much dumber than breaking your ankle to satisfy the rock police. Naturally it is a good feeling to get a route clean but if it becomes a choice between ticking a redpoint on your MP profile and getting hurt that is feckin absurd.. the ONLY time sending a rout clean really matters is for the FFA . every ascent after that is just a game. I for one am not going to risk an ounce of my flesh over something that has allready been climbed. Yea I like the feeling of getting it clean but if I think the fall is risky and I am sketched that gear is getting grabbed every time;) I can always come back annother day and have annother shot at it.
I think his grabbing the draw made him pay the piper later - he has created negative habits, like grabbing the quickdraw and forcing a clip when he's gassed rather than punch it or take. Those habits, in the wrong hands, can be unsafe - draws can catch on your body parts, and falling while clipping in above your head ain't a great idea.
I know of a few folks who tried to make a clip without grabbing the draw an ended up with a broken ankle. We have a stupid system with a bunch of stupid unwritten rules and it does not get much dumber than breaking your ankle to satisfy the rock police. Naturally it is a good feeling to get a route clean but if it becomes a choice between ticking a redpoint on your MP profile and getting hurt that is feckin absurd.. the ONLY time sending a rout clean really matters is for the FFA . every ascent after that is just a game. I for one am not going to risk an ounce of my flesh over something that has allready been climbed. Yea I like the feeling of getting it clean but if I think the fall is risky and I am sketched that gear is getting grabbed every time;) I can always come back annother day and have annother shot at it.
Tradman, I agree that the rules are stupid.
But I don't agree that the rules make people do what they do. I also have no problem grabbing a draw when needed, because I choose to value my health more than style points or accolades. That choice is available to all climbers. People do what they do because of the values they choose.
Not saying the guy was doing it right. just saying that there ain't no shame in grabbing gear. I am all about Alpine rules unless I am doing the FFA.
For sure. That's exactly how I interpreted it.
I'm just saying that "shame" is a chosen feeling.
If people are ashamed to grab gear, it's because they choose to buy into the rules... This isn't the fault of the rules, it's the fault of the people who choose to follow them.
That's all, just that small philosophical musing...
Let us know!