Rock N Ice Weekend Whipper

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socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 7, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
To be fair, I know not the backstory of this uncomfortable video, but damn it to heck if it doesn't smack of inexperience... 5.10 in a gym and 5.10 outside are different!



Charles
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
You could tell that was going to be a disaster in the first five seconds.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2012 - 05:19pm PT
I once heard a former coach (Summit Party Nor Cal) tell his kids that if they get pumped they should grab a draw and rest or clip into it. He told them this in ISO at a regional championship... I definitely see why gyms get a bad rep and do my best not to have that behavior in mine...

Charles
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
Nothing wrong with grabbing a draw to facilitate a clip if you are jazzed and feel that a fall is not safe. I think one of the key factors here was not knowing how to clip under stress.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
No shame in grabbing a draw now and then, but the belay gloves, that is embarrassing.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
It's never good when you end up with both hands on the draw and a skinny one at that.
Silver

Gym climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
As soon as you see that elbow flared out and slightly bent you know he's going to take a flyer.

Straight arm that and or if he was a little bit more experienced he might have thought about down climbing back to his last piece and not taken the fall with all the extra rope to clip in his hand.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
What's wrong with flying now and again? We all learned.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
he flew head first... ZERO points style!
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
I've got no issues with grabbing gear if it saves me from a big fall, or even a little one.

But it was painful to watch a hand on the draw and another hand futzing with the rope by the gate and still no clip, and then take the big whipper.
Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber
the pitch above you
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
Wheeeeee!!!

Extra points for:
1) belayer fully decked out for a goat rodeo
2) GoPro
3) posting the vid
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
Goat Rodeo!

BWAHAHA!!!

What's up with queer-ass belay gloves anyway?

This ain't aid climbing ladies.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Dec 7, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
Watch climbing from helmet mounted GoPro cam makes me dizzy and sick!
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
No shame in grabbing a draw now and then, but the belay gloves, that is embarrassing.
You knew something terrible was going to happen as soon as you saw those.

I've definitely grabbed my fair share of draws in my time, but even when I've been totally blown I've always been able to hang onto it and clip the rope, especially when it's only vert, which is what it looks like here.
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
I'm astonished that he couldn't get the rope clipped. Dude, clip the f*#king rope! What the hell was he doing up there? I love how you can see the bite in his hand while he's falling.
WBraun

climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:35pm PT
That's a stupid way to climb ...... :-)
Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber
the pitch above you
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
Credit: crotch

This is a perfect place to resurrect this masterpiece. I think they all train together.
WBraun

climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
That's the text book standard of how it's done ...... ^^^^^
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
Actually, I think the guy's biggest f-up was showing the bad judgment to wear a green bracelet.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
that picture never gets old, glad they have a couple of haul bags with them.
Prod

Trad climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
That may be the biggest aid climber I have ever seen. He's a pro at delicate hooking....

Prod.
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
Holy crap that picture is funny. I just spat food all over my computer...
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
There should be a pad in that picture.
ChizzDizzle

Trad climber
Rocklin,CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
^^^^^^^^^ He looks good that 1st piece he placed at his belly should be good!!!
fat-n-sassy

Social climber
San Francity, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
The bracelets are priceless.
labrat

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
Video looks to be the back side of Bath Rock. Coffee and Cornflakes (10a) maybe?
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Dec 7, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
^^^that what it says in the youtube description
Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
The whip is the price for blowing the clip, twice. All the aid used notwithstanding.
Bath Rock has some fricken Cool routes on it.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 8, 2012 - 01:12am PT
Is it the same as JT rock, or just look-alike?

Edit: Yeah, I could look it up. Feel free to flame me :-)

I get the sense that the belayer wasn't feeding rope. Sounds like "More!", and looks like he's trying to pull rope while saying that.

I like "do I have enough rope?". Seriously?
gimmeslack

Trad climber
VA
Dec 8, 2012 - 07:45am PT
Big dude in photo coulda been at home watchin' tuube. He's out playing on rocks. Good for him.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Dec 8, 2012 - 09:31am PT
It sure seemed like the first time go pro dude tried to clip he got short roped. 2nd time he too spent and spastic to get er done.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Dec 8, 2012 - 10:15am PT
Wearing your sisters bracelet for luck is always a bad idea
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 8, 2012 - 11:20am PT
I give him credit for not losing his head as he was about to lose the rest of his body and not freaking out afterwards either

Peace

Karl
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
Someone on another thread about this vid referred to grabbing the draw as "choking the cobra" f*#king 'ell...

Charles
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
I know of a few folks who tried to make a clip without grabbing the draw an ended up with a broken ankle. We have a stupid system with a bunch of stupid unwritten rules and it does not get much dumber than breaking your ankle to satisfy the rock police. Naturally it is a good feeling to get a route clean but if it becomes a choice between ticking a redpoint on your MP profile and getting hurt that is feckin absurd.. the ONLY time sending a rout clean really matters is for the FFA . every ascent after that is just a game. I for one am not going to risk an ounce of my flesh over something that has allready been climbed. Yea I like the feeling of getting it clean but if I think the fall is risky and I am sketched that gear is getting grabbed every time;) I can always come back annother day and have annother shot at it.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
The fear of falling > the fear of falling incorrectly for our young gentleman.

Teach your pupils well.

(the nonsense bracelets and cries of mommy were a nice touch. Almost thought it was a parody. Thank God for Go Pro's.)
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
Tradmanclimbs

I think his grabbing the draw made him pay the piper later - he has created negative habits, like grabbing the quickdraw and forcing a clip when he's gassed rather than punch it or take. Those habits, in the wrong hands, can be unsafe - draws can catch on your body parts, and falling while clipping in above your head ain't a great idea.
ec

climber
ca
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
Bracelets are like rings: do not wear when climbing...
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
And the aid climber pictured? Must be Donald...

Charles
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 8, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
I know of a few folks who tried to make a clip without grabbing the draw an ended up with a broken ankle. We have a stupid system with a bunch of stupid unwritten rules and it does not get much dumber than breaking your ankle to satisfy the rock police. Naturally it is a good feeling to get a route clean but if it becomes a choice between ticking a redpoint on your MP profile and getting hurt that is feckin absurd.. the ONLY time sending a rout clean really matters is for the FFA . every ascent after that is just a game. I for one am not going to risk an ounce of my flesh over something that has allready been climbed. Yea I like the feeling of getting it clean but if I think the fall is risky and I am sketched that gear is getting grabbed every time;) I can always come back annother day and have annother shot at it.

Tradman, I agree that the rules are stupid.

But I don't agree that the rules make people do what they do. I also have no problem grabbing a draw when needed, because I choose to value my health more than style points or accolades. That choice is available to all climbers. People do what they do because of the values they choose.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Dec 8, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
Not saying the guy was doing it right. just saying that there ain't no shame in grabbing gear. I am all about Alpine rules unless I am doing the FFA.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Dec 8, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
Not saying the guy was doing it right. just saying that there ain't no shame in grabbing gear. I am all about Alpine rules unless I am doing the FFA.

For sure. That's exactly how I interpreted it.

I'm just saying that "shame" is a chosen feeling.

If people are ashamed to grab gear, it's because they choose to buy into the rules... This isn't the fault of the rules, it's the fault of the people who choose to follow them.

That's all, just that small philosophical musing...
locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
Donald...

Pretty sure that's "Soft Cookie"(Edited: her handle here on ST) in that photo...

Something tells me she isn't going to dig you posting it in the context you did...

LOL!!!...




Of course I could be wrong...

Time will tell...

locker

Social climber
state of Kumbaya...
Dec 8, 2012 - 05:41pm PT


She probably STILL isn't going to dig it...

;-)



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