Bouldering above the "N" in Reno?

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robfritz

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 6, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
Does anyone what the access is like to the boulders above the painted "N" in Reno? Based on google images it looks like there is a service road to the cell towers that goes up to it. Also, have these been explored?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 6, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
Heh. I thought you were talking about Comm Row and the arch right there. No idea on the bouldering though. Sorry.
robfritz

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2012 - 11:23am PT
Nah worries. Come on taco people!?!
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Dec 7, 2012 - 11:25am PT
choss.

I've mountain biked and trail ran past them a plethora of times and unequivocally they are choss.

Go to the Washoe Boulders or Sommersett Boulders for local bouldering. There is A boulder up the adjacent Keystone Canyon that offers a few problems but nothing quality, in my opinion. Rock is good, just short and only OKAY movement.
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Dec 7, 2012 - 11:38am PT
There’s climbing here in Reno?!?!?!?
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Dec 7, 2012 - 11:46am PT
No climbing in or around Reno. Zip. Zero. Nada. Goose egg.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
A few weeks ago, while in Reno, I went and checked out a steep face north of town...up 395 and just north of the "shoe tree".....off the highway to the east.

The rock was about 50 feet high or so, had some bolts, and the remnants of a glue up route.

Anyone know the details?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson
was it a large squarish boulder with BON JOVI painted on it??
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
Ron, definitely squarish...I don't recall the Bon Jovi thing, but there was a fair amount of paint on the rock all over that area....sad.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
the pic on the right Crag??

If so,, yes,, we placed anchors on that years ago- for TRs

had 1 0r two desperately hard things on the west face..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
we called it "the cube".. what else?? lol!


Back side routes were the approach routes to the top..Introduced ol "426" to hand drilling there...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
there were NO glue up routes there then!!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
how many of you Reno guys have been to "owl rock"..??
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
Dude, I haven't even been to Pig Rock.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
Pig?,, havent missed much- damaged anchors, upgraded routes. Zoo like during the winter months. Many routes- small area= congestion. Contra canyon is ok for a day of shorties but ive heard bolts have been chopped there too.
The area has been plagued with such things for years now. Most of those routes were outta my league on the pig proper anyhoo..I didnt do the "working a route" gig. If i didnt do it on the first try interest waned- and i lowered to a bowl...
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
Ron....Yep, that's the one. There was definitely a glue-up at one time that has since been chopped. The whole thing is a travesty.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
Dang,,, we placed only a bolt or two on top for TRs. Sad that is- i take it the glue ups were on that flat face..

Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
Yes Ron, and in a very LEFT RIGHT LEFT RIGHT kind of pattern. Bolts on the face too...VERY close together.

STUPID!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
totally, as there ARE climbs there on it.. we got close tring that face- a few times- but its desperate 12+ maybe 13. Jim Arnold got an arete there that is easily 12+ on tr. We kinda figured that was good enough for it, never considered leading- cuz well it was insanely hard shyt!

And BEFORE anyone says it,,yeah Dano had his "epoxy wall" but it wasnt on the main feature of a given area.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
Dudes! Pig Rock is the shiz in the winter.

This one time, I used a bullet crater as a mono.

This other time, I had to leave because I was climbing, mid pitch, and a suburban cruised in. A bunch of fat people rolled out and started shooting at the car that's across the way, you know the one.

I asked them to chill for a minute and was threatened. It was really fun. One guy actually said 'Well, we've got the guns', or some such, it's been ten years or so.

I was threatened by a douchebag mid pitch though, strange experience.

I finished the pitch. .11something onsight, bitches!!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
yeah,, one of the ones on the far left no doubt...I got those too.;-)

and i was like forty!....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
kinda sad about the cube,, we actually considered chipping a key hold to make a route go,, all for about thirteen seconds, then said baahhh what would be the point then? We never did complete the hard part of the face- it was just beyond the scope. Someone out there can do it,, prolly some 11 year old somewheres lol!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
Ron, that face looks VERY hard..but now, it is so defaced, it's just an ugly place to be...not worth it.

Tons of broken glass beer bottles and cans all around too.....sad commentary.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
Good stories, Brandon.

Nothing against guns, but some people have no sense. I remember these guys at a climbers' campground in AZ. They climbed the previous day and before they vamoosed the next morning they set up shop, started popping off rounds at 7am-8am in the goddamn morning! It was sport climbing so no alpine starts, so pretty much the whole campground full of people was trying to sleep in. Of course, nobody said anything because they "have the guns", but it's a really crappy thing for people sleeping as well as publicizing responsible gun ownership.

I'm sure most here wouldn't do that nonsense, I'm not trying to start an anti-gun owner thing, just an anti-dipshit thing. You also shouldn't imply threats like those folks were doing to you in your case, Brandon. I just drove out that way, I could see it as prime redneckin' turf for the Reno area. Maybe I'll get on the Pig one of these days.

For fun, accessible volcanic climbing, I thought Trippy Rock was a perfect gym. Those 11's are a damn good crimp ladder workout! Although, I don't like the bolting there.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
I remember hearing about a place where the 431 ramps down to 395. Supposedly decent bouldering.

When I finally checked it out, there was a service station and a subdivision there. No access.

Ron, you familiar with the spot?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 7, 2012 - 12:57pm PT
Did you boulder the service station?
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Dec 7, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
No, I bought a Gatorade and drove back over the hill.

I wasn't hating on gun owners, I'm one myself. It was just a dick move to overtly threaten me while I was pasted to muddy rock.

That said, I've found some sweet honeycombed boulders in the next wash east. It's a steep hill to drive up, but it's a sweet place to camp.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
place sounds like a DUMP now crag!??? There was no trash or the like that i remember there- other than some paint.


That area- spots of susanville and surrounds are know to be METHHEAD city.
A shame really- it used to be a gorgeous spot as many used to be.

feckin paint and trash-- everyone that comes here thinks its ok cuz its "wasteland" i guess. They dont see the thriving wildlife or sage or rabbit brush - bitter brush and the like as important.. they see a convenient spot to dump their ashtrays and toss the mcdonalds bag and beer bottles though. Just about every pull off of 395N is that way anymore.



edit: Brandon, the only one i knew of over there was Owl rock at the base of the VC highway- to the south hidden in trees. Kinda funky but ok for a day- bout 50/60 feet tall in spots.
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Dec 7, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
The access to the boulders above the N is very open. There are trails form Rancho San Rafael Park or I believe you can drive close to the north side. Mostly smallish chucks of really sold rock all over that area with a couple good boulders problems here and there but no concentration of anything good except the Keystone Boulder. Not really worth the approach unless you are pout mo8ntan biking the trails and then there are 4 or 5 areas that would be worthy of stopping.

There is also a small crag that I refer to as Dinosaur Rock to the North East of Rancho San Rafael Park up on a hill. Pretty good moderate bouldering soloing but no thin steep or difficult. Good place for TR with young kids. Access is weird because of the neighbors but there is a way to get there by following the RR tracks form the south or directly up the hill for the West.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Dec 7, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
Owl Rock? That small chunck of volcanic garbage? Didn't really find much there. Maybe a couple of lines were worth the effort to put on climbing shoes for. The climbing options there are of poor quality, probably not worth the effort unless you actualy lived on Toll Road and it was only 10 minutes from home imo (And I actually usually enjoy most "chossy" crags) One of the very few spots that I ultimately pulled out of the new guidebook because I didn't feel it worthy of wasting a page or two. Though we did actually climb a half dozen very short, very chossy, forgetable "routes" in the six hours we killed there looking around on a day when it was to windy/cold in Tahoe. Went back again to explore around thinking maybe we missed something in the nearby area, but never found anything except even worse choss. (The road makes for a good mountain bike path to Virginia City though) There was one place of overhanging rock that we never got on though that maybe had a possibility or two. Did we miss a classic Ron Anderson route there somewhere?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
baahhahaaa noooo, actually your description is fairly accurate, but we did do something that was overhanug near the top- it was a certain bone breaker or death fall that somehow we didnt die on,,as pro is sometimes seldom had there- we did another "arete" route that also was funk- but the place was interesting for a day.. Although i must admit it was a one time visit lol!

it was 77/78 so bolting wasnt an option ....
robfritz

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
Love all the stories! I just moved to the area so I'm still bummed about the lack of climbing. Supposedly there's some body of water called pyramid lake near Reno. Any DWS there or is that wishful thinking?
Aki J

Trad climber
Placerville, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
YERRR GONNA DIEEE! but really, don't break your foot again ;)
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
Sh#t man, I broke both my sternum and my tailbone jumping off of a huge rock on Pyramid Lake. Gave me a concussion too, I was puking all night.

Took two years before my sternum stopped cracking everytime I took a deep breath.

Ah, memories.

This was the actual event;

robfritz

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
Took two years before my sternum stopped cracking everytime I took a deep breath.
Gnarly!! I'll make sure not to do that.

Oh hey aki, yeah I saw that;)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Dec 7, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
the pinnacles at pyramid have been closed to non tribal members due to trash graffiti and other swell things...

Tribal memebers do patrol it,, ya dont want to mess with them.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Dec 7, 2012 - 10:27pm PT

I just moved to the area so I'm still bummed about the lack of climbing.


Do you mean within a 15 minute walk of your frontdoor or a crag that stays 75 degrees in the winter months? Otherwise you must be really new to the area. Several lifetimes of great climbing within an hour of where you live. (A couple thousand established routes plus several more thousand within another 45 minutes, not to mention endless bouldering opportunities) including some crags that are climable year round.
Maybe someone could recommend a good, local guidebook for you, if you don't have a partner to show you around.
Ahh....to be new to the area with so many good climbing spots to check out for the first time..... good luck and enjoy the exploration!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 7, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
Heh. Well, I'll play the man's game...

http://www.trailspace.com/gear/camp-4-press/locals-guide-to-rock-climbs-of-north-tahoe/

...Has all the major areas and a lot of hidden gems worth digging out too.

Now, if Chim-chim gets done with that Woodfords guide any time soon, you'll be sitting on a whole metric butt ton of winter climbing. Also, type "obscurities" in the entire site search bar here on supertopo and you'll find the page that has Ron Anderson's still very functional guide to that winter cragging area.

Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
A whole metric butt ton is a lot. I think.
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Dec 7, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
Brandon,

Is that actually you jumping in that picture? Or just the same jump?

Regardless, dang, that pretty loco, bro!

Jumped off of this thing at La Jolla Cove called the clam when I was 16. It's about 45'. But I jumped at low tide and as the water sucked out. So it added about 10' or 15'. I couldn't go surfing for about 2-3 weeks. I swore that I would never bend to peer pressure again after that lil' f*#k up!
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