What Are Some Of The Most Overrated Climbs in Yosemite/Tuolu

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 40 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 6, 2012 - 03:11pm PT

OK I think we've thrashed that one to death.

Who are the most over weight climbers in yosemite / Tuolomne?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 6, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
I know this is an obscure one but I'd have to say that Death Crack in TM seems overrated at 5.11d. It is tough & challenging but IMHO no way 5.11d. I did it once with a cast on my left leg & a cutoff climbing shoe strapped to my leg cast, so how hard can it be? More like 5.11a.


That is a sexy looking crack, good to know it might be in my range after all.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 6, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
Help me out here, are we talking overrated for difficulty or quality?

Most Valley climbs kick my sorry ass, especially the current version.
The off width on Blind Faith seemed a lot easier than Twilight Zone.
The NA was a classic outing but somewhat of a pile as an aid route.

PB
Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 6, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
Peruvian Flake.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
Overrated both in grade and in reputation....Can include ghosts as well where the climb is not nearly as hard or scary as it's rep.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:16am PT
OK I think we've thrashed that one to death.

Who are the most over weight climbers in yosemite / Tuolomne?


Now we're talkin'

Pics of fat guys climbing really hard sh#t would be way more entertaining.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:56am PT
Pics of fat guys climbing really hard sh#t would be way more entertaining.

We could probably do old skinny guys climbing really easy sh#t...
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:07am PT
Maxine's Wall

and

+1 for Peruvian Flake
fosburg

climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
Thought about this today at work after seeing the thread this morning.
For sure the 11c pitch on the Rostrum is light, Peruvian Flake, as mentioned, Fish Crack, Butterballs, Catchy, Wheat Thin.
I started breaking into harder grades in Joshua Tree where in retrospect the grading seems stiff so almost everything in Yosemite felt a bit soft.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 7, 2012 - 04:20pm PT
Peruvian Flake is definitely a 5.10a primer.

Great climb though, whatever the grade. I had a magical moment belaying a friend up in the waning light after doing Royal Arches one time. No drugs or nothing, just got lost in a timeless moment, staring out over the trees, nary a hint of anything resembling humanity to be seen. I'm not sure what grade you give that sort of experience. Maybe it's an example of the oft-cited five-fun, although it felt weightier than that at the time.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Dec 7, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
Crest Jewell seems like it's not really 5.10. With the newer rubber, I think it is easier. Great location though.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
5.9+, tops.
fat-n-sassy

Social climber
San Francity, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
The Yawn.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
Absolutely Free center route ....
ryankelly

Trad climber
el portal
Dec 7, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
At least this thread is about climbing but come on:

Talk about a first world problem!


All kidding aside, in answer to the question I didn't really enjoy Crest Jewel, but it was fun because we climbed it in January and topped out to snow and sunset on Half Dome.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 7, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
If I do Crest Jewel, I also want to do that South Crack on North Dome in the same trip. Which will either entail being incredibly fast (unlikely), or an overnight up there to slog it all out. Anybody that link-up (any combo of: RA->CJ->South Crack)?
Captain...or Skully

climber
Dec 7, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
Sounds like fun. I'd camp out & savor, but some folk(many) are faster than I.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:05am PT
+1 for Absolutely Free Center.

If the 1-1/2" crack at the start of pitch 2 was longer than 15 feet than maybe it's worth it, but pitch 1 and 3 are highly unremarkable with pitch 3 being not only wide, but also rough. Then there's the ant trees and the yucky descent.

If this climb was in some place other than Yosemite then maybe it's an OK route. But, given all the great climbs in Yosemite, Ab Free Center is a waste of time and energy unless you have done every other route in the Valley.
brat

climber
El Portal
Dec 9, 2012 - 09:38am PT
OMG The Yawn is so hard.

Overrated? Maybe Commitment?
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Dec 9, 2012 - 11:12am PT
Damn Kevin, you are trashing half of my favorite routes.

Midterm is in my top ten Yosemite pitches for sure and no the lines are not backing up for that one. It tests all the sizes, technique, and endurance. The most solid rock anywhere I've climbed, not a loose grain on it. It shuts over half the people I've seen down but not that hard with good technique.

Cental Pillar... Best route I can think of for the grade. Linking P2 and 3 is so good.

Reeds Direct...just look at it, vertical, splitter, clean ????

Ahab's not hard???? Shuts most people down.

I agree that New D is soft for 11a on the last pitch but think the route
is a stout affair overall.



The most overated pitch I can think of as far as difficulty is the first pitch of The Free Blast at 10c, more like 10a. I love that pitch though.


I guess we all have are likes, dislikes and challenges.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews