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fosburg
climber
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Thought about this today at work after seeing the thread this morning.
For sure the 11c pitch on the Rostrum is light, Peruvian Flake, as mentioned, Fish Crack, Butterballs, Catchy, Wheat Thin.
I started breaking into harder grades in Joshua Tree where in retrospect the grading seems stiff so almost everything in Yosemite felt a bit soft.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Crest Jewell seems like it's not really 5.10. With the newer rubber, I think it is easier. Great location though.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Absolutely Free center route ....
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ryankelly
Trad climber
el portal
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At least this thread is about climbing but come on:
Talk about a first world problem!
All kidding aside, in answer to the question I didn't really enjoy Crest Jewel, but it was fun because we climbed it in January and topped out to snow and sunset on Half Dome.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Sounds like fun. I'd camp out & savor, but some folk(many) are faster than I.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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+1 for Absolutely Free Center.
If the 1-1/2" crack at the start of pitch 2 was longer than 15 feet than maybe it's worth it, but pitch 1 and 3 are highly unremarkable with pitch 3 being not only wide, but also rough. Then there's the ant trees and the yucky descent.
If this climb was in some place other than Yosemite then maybe it's an OK route. But, given all the great climbs in Yosemite, Ab Free Center is a waste of time and energy unless you have done every other route in the Valley.
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brat
climber
El Portal
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OMG The Yawn is so hard.
Overrated? Maybe Commitment?
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Damn Kevin, you are trashing half of my favorite routes.
Midterm is in my top ten Yosemite pitches for sure and no the lines are not backing up for that one. It tests all the sizes, technique, and endurance. The most solid rock anywhere I've climbed, not a loose grain on it. It shuts over half the people I've seen down but not that hard with good technique.
Cental Pillar... Best route I can think of for the grade. Linking P2 and 3 is so good.
Reeds Direct...just look at it, vertical, splitter, clean ????
Ahab's not hard???? Shuts most people down.
I agree that New D is soft for 11a on the last pitch but think the route
is a stout affair overall.
The most overated pitch I can think of as far as difficulty is the first pitch of The Free Blast at 10c, more like 10a. I love that pitch though.
I guess we all have are likes, dislikes and challenges.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Kevin (Fosburg)
How the hell are you?
You're taking some of the proud off our Rostro-Man day, one of the best days of climbing I've ever had!
I do agree though, that compared to Butterballs, the Rostrum finger crack is a softer 11c.
Josh is generally stout and anything by Lechlinski/Gilje is likely a full heads up sandbag.
Hope you're well!
Perry
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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crux pitch on rostrum
rostrum 11b pitch up high
fish crack ( but i just TR'd )
chingando
crack a go go ( tricky though )
manana
vanishing point
catchy
any pitch of SS if rated 5.10
+ 1 for peruvian
-1 for cramming - hardest 10d i've done in yos
-1 for ahab - also seemed really hard
-1 for top pitch new D
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Quality wise- American Wet Dream
Grade wise.... there are soft grades in the park?? If so they must be changed- we have a rep to maintain
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Kevin, now I have to rethink my idea of heading south to check out some of that stuff you've been developing. Our differences are scaring me away.
IMO the amount of technique plus mental and physical relaxation required to do Ahab earns it's hard reputation.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
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Snowhazed....Also depends on which guidebook you look at. Anything other then Supertopo is what I'm basing ratings on. Supertopo has definitely softened up the grades by upgrading many climbs and in my opinion, screwing up the system because they are way different. It seems as if Supertopo is trying to match trad with sport grades to get the gym crew a more realistic view of what their getting on which I think is not a bad idea except it messes with established rating systems for areas.
And the Warbler has put up some of the most heinous sandbags in the valley. So I would think that anything he says is easy is normal for mere mortals. Get on Quicksilver sometime and let me know if you think it's 5.9.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Warbler wrote - There's way more underrated routes, especially quality wise.
Climbers are like people - most of them do what all the rest do...
Clearly your time would be best spent climbing elsewhere, the Valley is not worthy of you.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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We climb on immutable (with a few exceptions) rock features that were sitting there long before apes evolved into humans. Affixing numbers (grades) to them is a very recent game we play. "Climbs" are neither over or under rated, the arbitrary numbers we give them are transient and will fade away into history.
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