What Are Some Of The Most Overrated Climbs in Yosemite/Tuolu


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Captain...or Skully

Dec 6, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
Peruvian Flake.

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2012 - 12:33am PT
Overrated both in grade and in reputation....Can include ghosts as well where the climb is not nearly as hard or scary as it's rep.

Jim Henson's Basement
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:16am PT
OK I think we've thrashed that one to death.

Who are the most over weight climbers in yosemite / Tuolomne?

Now we're talkin'

Pics of fat guys climbing really hard sh#t would be way more entertaining.
The Warbler

the edge of America
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:56am PT
Pics of fat guys climbing really hard sh#t would be way more entertaining.

We could probably do old skinny guys climbing really easy sh#t...
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 10:07am PT
Maxine's Wall


+1 for Peruvian Flake

Dec 7, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
Thought about this today at work after seeing the thread this morning.
For sure the 11c pitch on the Rostrum is light, Peruvian Flake, as mentioned, Fish Crack, Butterballs, Catchy, Wheat Thin.
I started breaking into harder grades in Joshua Tree where in retrospect the grading seems stiff so almost everything in Yosemite felt a bit soft.
Jebus H Bomz

Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
Peruvian Flake is definitely a 5.10a primer.

Great climb though, whatever the grade. I had a magical moment belaying a friend up in the waning light after doing Royal Arches one time. No drugs or nothing, just got lost in a timeless moment, staring out over the trees, nary a hint of anything resembling humanity to be seen. I'm not sure what grade you give that sort of experience. Maybe it's an example of the oft-cited five-fun, although it felt weightier than that at the time.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Dec 7, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
Crest Jewell seems like it's not really 5.10. With the newer rubber, I think it is easier. Great location though.
Captain...or Skully

Dec 7, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
5.9+, tops.

Social climber
San Francity, CA
Dec 7, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
The Yawn.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Dec 7, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
Absolutely Free center route ....

Trad climber
el portal
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:21am PT
At least this thread is about climbing but come on:

Talk about a first world problem!

All kidding aside, in answer to the question I didn't really enjoy Crest Jewel, but it was fun because we climbed it in January and topped out to snow and sunset on Half Dome.
Jebus H Bomz

Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:30am PT
If I do Crest Jewel, I also want to do that South Crack on North Dome in the same trip. Which will either entail being incredibly fast (unlikely), or an overnight up there to slog it all out. Anybody that link-up (any combo of: RA->CJ->South Crack)?
Captain...or Skully

Dec 8, 2012 - 02:35am PT
Sounds like fun. I'd camp out & savor, but some folk(many) are faster than I.

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 03:05am PT
+1 for Absolutely Free Center.

If the 1-1/2" crack at the start of pitch 2 was longer than 15 feet than maybe it's worth it, but pitch 1 and 3 are highly unremarkable with pitch 3 being not only wide, but also rough. Then there's the ant trees and the yucky descent.

If this climb was in some place other than Yosemite then maybe it's an OK route. But, given all the great climbs in Yosemite, Ab Free Center is a waste of time and energy unless you have done every other route in the Valley.

El Portal
Dec 9, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
OMG The Yawn is so hard.

Overrated? Maybe Commitment?

Dec 9, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
Damn Kevin, you are trashing half of my favorite routes.

Midterm is in my top ten Yosemite pitches for sure and no the lines are not backing up for that one. It tests all the sizes, technique, and endurance. The most solid rock anywhere I've climbed, not a loose grain on it. It shuts over half the people I've seen down but not that hard with good technique.

Cental Pillar... Best route I can think of for the grade. Linking P2 and 3 is so good.

Reeds Direct...just look at it, vertical, splitter, clean ????

Ahab's not hard???? Shuts most people down.

I agree that New D is soft for 11a on the last pitch but think the route
is a stout affair overall.

The most overated pitch I can think of as far as difficulty is the first pitch of The Free Blast at 10c, more like 10a. I love that pitch though.

I guess we all have are likes, dislikes and challenges.
The Warbler

the edge of America
Dec 9, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
Damn Kevin, you are trashing half of my favorite routes.

Gotta laugh at that Tork.

I admit, by nature, I tend to stray from, if not run from, popular opinion and pursuit.

Midterm is too slippery, uniform, and stuffed back in a slot for me. I think Anticipation, TKO, Gripper are all better.

I did the second ascent of Central Pillar, and did the whole original 8 pitch route. Compared to other routes on MCR, it didn't seem that great. I agree that 2 and 3 are good, 1 1/4 pitches might be great, but that's just one an a quarter pitch out of 8 pitches..... MCR is for face climbing ;-)

Reeds Direct pitch 2 is splitter, yeah, and super clean, but repetitious easy moves, and the crux of that pitch is slightly awkward to me. The last pitch crux is short and unexposed.

Ahab's not hard???? Shuts most people down.

That's just it - if you do it right it's not that hard. Intimidating, yes, but overrated difficulty wise, or should I say rep wise, IMO. Great pitch, though, one of the best at Base of El Cap.

New D is a bit overrated quality wise and difficulty wise, I think. It's got good, fairly hard climbing, but it's cut up by ledge systems, and the upper half and crux has easier climbing not far to the right. Not saying it isn't a good route, just that I don't feel it lives up to its stellar reputation. I think The Biscuit is a way better route, for example.


The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Dec 9, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
Kevin (Fosburg)

How the hell are you?
You're taking some of the proud off our Rostro-Man day, one of the best days of climbing I've ever had!
I do agree though, that compared to Butterballs, the Rostrum finger crack is a softer 11c.
Josh is generally stout and anything by Lechlinski/Gilje is likely a full heads up sandbag.
Hope you're well!

David Wilson

Dec 9, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
crux pitch on rostrum
rostrum 11b pitch up high
fish crack ( but i just TR'd )
crack a go go ( tricky though )
vanishing point
any pitch of SS if rated 5.10
+ 1 for peruvian

-1 for cramming - hardest 10d i've done in yos
-1 for ahab - also seemed really hard
-1 for top pitch new D

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